HELP I killed my grass with weed-n-feed!!!!
MIchelle
beginning of Spring when my lawn was overrun with dandelions and
weeds, I ran out to Kmart and bought a 50lb bag of weed n feed. I
stupidly didn't read the instructions figuring I couldn't do much hard
because it was a "feed". Well, I was definitely wrong. I "spread" it
with a cup and dumped a whole cup on areas of large weeds. Well,
needless to say, and much to my horror, have many large patches of
brown dead grass!!! It just looks horrible!
At this point, is there anything at all I can do aside from digging up
the many dead patches and re-seeding? Is there any chance that the
grass will grow there again?
Please help!
Thanks,
Michelle
Timothy
In my opinion, you'll have to dig the soil out of the affected areas and
replace the soil and seed it. If theres a lot of damage, it might be in
your best intrest to thatch the lawn, replace the affected soil and start
the lawn over again. Sorry you had such a bad time with the weed&feed.
Remember to Always read the bag and to Always follow the application
instructions. Generally, below the application directions you'll find a
listing of 'rules/guidelines. These are the federal laws that goveren the
use and application of the product.
--
http://yard-works.netfirms.com
Phisherman
wrote:
Spread it with a "cup?" Always use a spreader when applying granular
fertilizer. Wait for several rain washings to dissipate the burning
fertilizer--perhaps two months is enough. Remove the dead matter,
scratch the ground, seed, protect with straw, and keep moist for 2
weeks. Keep weed killers off the new grass (for at least a year).
Read and follow all directions for every product you use.
Tsu Dho Nimh
>I'm a new homeowner and pretty inexperienced with gardening. At the
>beginning of Spring when my lawn was overrun with dandelions and
>weeds, I ran out to Kmart and bought a 50lb bag of weed n feed. I
>stupidly didn't read the instructions figuring I couldn't do much hard
>because it was a "feed". Well, I was definitely wrong. I "spread" it
>with a cup and dumped a whole cup on areas of large weeds. Well,
>needless to say, and much to my horror, have many large patches of
>brown dead grass!!! It just looks horrible!
>
>At this point, is there anything at all I can do aside from digging up
>the many dead patches and re-seeding?
You have "nitrogen burn". Water THOROUGHLY to wash that crud
DEEP under the roots and wait it out.
Chalk it up to experience: too much fertilizer, too much
herbicide = dead grass.
Tsu
--
To doubt everything or to believe everything
are two equally convenient solutions; both
dispense with the necessity of reflection.
- Jules Henri Poincaré
Stephen M. Henning
> I ran out to Kmart and bought a 50lb bag of weed n feed. I
> stupidly didn't read the instructions figuring I couldn't do much hard
> because it was a "feed". Well, I was definitely wrong. I "spread" it
> with a cup and dumped a whole cup on areas of large weeds. Well,
> needless to say, and much to my horror, have many large patches of
> brown dead grass!!! It just looks horrible!
Always read the label.
With fertilizer, it is usually best to apply at 1/2 of the recommended
rate. The recommended rate is designed to give good results and sell
more fertilizer.
With herbicides, you must be careful to read the label to see how
weather affects the performance. Usually dry herbicides like
weed-n-feed need to be applied to moist plants when no rain is expected
for 24 to 48 hours. That is a little hard to come by. Usually a
selective liquid weed killer based on 2-4-d selectively applied to the
weeds is preferable. Then you can get an inexpensive fertilizer and
apply at 1/2 of the recommended rate.
--
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Tom Jaszewski
of poor cultural problem. Weed and Feed products simply make the
problems increasingly complex.
Topdress with quality compost, core aerate, apply compost tea and
convert to organic fertilizers. (oh and stop gardening with Martha)
On 16 May 2003 07:28:58 -0700, svetl...@patmedia.net (MIchelle)
wrote:
>I'm a new homeowner and pretty inexperienced with gardening. At the
"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Harmful insects and plant diseases are always present,
but do not occur in nature to an extent which requires the use of poisonous chemicals.
The sensible approach to disease and insect control is to grow sturdy crops in a healthy environment."
Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution--1978
animaux
means they prevent weed and any other type of seeds from germinating. It
doesn't necessarily kill grass. However, dumping chemicals on anything without
reading was not a good idea. You most likely burned the turf with way too much
fertilizer. Just mow it, keep it watered and try to learn to read.
By the way, you can kill trees with atrazine, which is in many weed and feed
products. All are junk, none help the soil biota and they don't guarantee what
the fillers are. They could use any toxic crap they want to carry the N-P-K in
the product.
All I do to my turf is water, mow, and core aerate. Maybe once a year I top
dress with compost, but I mostly do that for the trees. If you mow before weeds
go to seed, every time you do that you prevent more weeds. It can take a few
years, but it can be done.
On 16 May 2003 07:28:58 -0700, svetl...@patmedia.net (MIchelle) wrote:
Tom Jaszewski
<pig...@aol.com> wrote:
>With fertilizer, it is usually best to apply at 1/2 of the recommended
>rate. The recommended rate is designed to give good results and sell
>more fertilizer.
Why then buy a product, which by your description, is mislabeled?
Stephen M. Henning
> Weed and Feed products are, for the most part, pre-emergent chemicals.
No. Products labeled Weed-N-Feed are fertilizer and contact herbicicide.
The premergence products are labeled such things as Scotts Plus and are
for crab grass.
--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to shen...@fast.net
Ann
>Why then buy a product, which by your description, is mislabeled?
Why twist the description into mislabeling? He's right, they're
trying to sell fertilizer, and advise putting on too heavy a coat.
--
Ann, Gardening in zone 6a
Just south of Boston, MA
********************************
Ann
>Weed and Feed products are, for the most part, pre-emergent chemicals.
No they aren't, they're full of weedkiller to knock off the
dandilions, plantains, etc. Pre-emergents are a totally different
product, albeit with fertilizers, sometimes, that are applied earlier
than the weed and feed products. If you use weed and feed around here
in March it'll do nothing but spread unnecessary chemicals and
fertilize the lawn (excessively). Fertilizer with crab grass control
is spread then. The weed and feed comes in the second feeding.
At least that's how it works on chemical feeder's lawns. Not mine.
JNJ
What were you thinking using a chemical product without reading the label?
You've burned the grass out. You need some good, hard rains to wash this
further into the soil (or a few weeks of heavy sprinkler work). In the
spots where you "dumped a whole cup" you may want to take off the top couple
of inches of soil, throw it out and replace it.
After the fertilizer has been thoroughly washed down (probably 4 or 5 HEAVY
and prolonged rains or a few weeks of thorough sprinkler action every other
day) go out and buy several bags of compost to spread about the property.
Spread it thinly -- we're not looking to build an inch layer here, just add
to the soil a bit. Then get some Scot's Sun & Shade mix (or another quality
grass) and overseed the lawn. Water regularly and the grass will appear.
You need to mow this new grass regularly -- as in every time it gets to
about 4 inches in height. Keep it at about 3 inches. Do not let it grow
more than 4 inches before you mow -- you'll stress the plant and may kill
it.
Another option is to simply resod the yard or to hire a contractor to come
out and handle the reseed.
And FWIW -- stay away from chemicals, you rarely truly need any such thing.
They're really no good for the soil or plants, certainly no good for you and
your family, and all you really do is ensure that you'll need to keep
applying chemicals. Each year, spread some compost on your lawn, mow
regularly, and pull weeds by hand -- you'll be happy you did.
James
animaux
>animaux <ani...@0w8fjp.net> wrote:
>
>> Weed and Feed products are, for the most part, pre-emergent chemicals.
>
>No. Products labeled Weed-N-Feed are fertilizer and contact herbicicide.
>The premergence products are labeled such things as Scotts Plus and are
>for crab grass.
I said "for the most part." I didn't say all the time. I will say it again.
For the most part, weed and feed products are pre-emergents.
Phisherman
>Tom Jaszewski <to...@whoseyermama.com> expounded:
>
>>Why then buy a product, which by your description, is mislabeled?
>
>Why twist the description into mislabeling? He's right, they're
>trying to sell fertilizer, and advise putting on too heavy a coat.
I agree with Ann. It is better to apply at half the rate, wait a
month and apply again. Fertilizers tend to give the lawn a big huge
meal at once, them there's very little food left after 6 weeks. The
time-release fertilizers help smooth out this effect, but two small
applications is still better. The lawn weed killers really punish
the healthy grass and really should be used in rare cases. I spot
kill the few weeds I get with very good results, although I have a
thick lawn that chokes out most of the weeds anyway.
Tom Jaszewski
needed rate IS mislabeling, not a twist by me!
On Sat, 17 May 2003 09:57:45 -0400, Ann <ann...@thecia.net> wrote:
>Tom Jaszewski <to...@whoseyermama.com> expounded:
>
>>Why then buy a product, which by your description, is mislabeled?
>
>Why twist the description into mislabeling? He's right, they're
>trying to sell fertilizer, and advise putting on too heavy a coat.
"Nature, left alone, is in perfect balance.
Psycho Psycho
won't harm anything to try.
JNJ
certainly
> won't harm anything to try.
Nah -- she just needs to get the ground good and soaked several times over
and it will wash through (well, assuming it's not a swampy-type of yard).
Depending on where she is, if she waits a month or two I'll wager mama
natura will handle that for her.
James
MIchelle
reading all of the posts I feel even worse than I did when I realized
the results of my actions. I just have NO experience with gardening
or lawns AT ALL. I had never heard of a spreader, I did it with a cup
because to me, it seemed like it was the only way I could distribute
the weed n feed from the 50lb bag. Anyway, I obviously learned a very
hard and valuable lesson from all of this.
I'm not sure I even know how to do many of the recommended solutions,
I don't even know what composte is, although I assume it's a mixture
of dirt of some sort. I'll probably be forced to wait it and try to
over saturate it with water since I'm 6 months pregnant and any
serious physical work at this point is out of the question. My
husband works so much he just manages to get the lawn mowed once a
week, and I thought I could help with the weed n feed. Hopefully from
reading this newsgroup I will become much more experienced with taking
care of my lawn. If this situation doesn't improve itself in a few
months, I guess I'll have to hire someone to come in and fix the
problem spots.
Thank you all so much for your efforts to help me!
Michelle
Ann
>I truly appreciate all the wonderful responses to my post. After
>reading all of the posts I feel even worse than I did when I realized
>the results of my actions. I just have NO experience with gardening
>or lawns AT ALL. I had never heard of a spreader, I did it with a cup
>because to me, it seemed like it was the only way I could distribute
>the weed n feed from the 50lb bag. Anyway, I obviously learned a very
>hard and valuable lesson from all of this.
Michelle, don't take it all too hard, but one thing bothers me I
hadn't thought of before.....you used a cup, and tossed it, which
means you breathed in even more dust than using a spreader. Keep in
mind these are strong chemicals you're using, so it is extremely
important to read, read, read before you use any of them.
For that matter, don't use chemical lawn food at all. It gives the
lawn a huge jolt, the lawn grows like crazy and needs to be cut more
frequently, and then needs more fertilizer to maintain the look....as
well as water. A heavily (chemical) fertilized lawn requires more
water. If you use any of those products on a drought stressed lawn
you'll see similar results to what you've seen already.
I don't know where you are, but I've had good luck here in New England
with the Espoma products, which is an organic line of fertilizers. I
use it twice a year, spring and fall, and have a wonderful lawn. Take
care from now on, and good luck with your lawn!
zxcvbob
My wife did the same thing last year. I knew something was dreadfully
wrong when I got home from work and smelled 2,4-d. I was afraid it was
going to kill all the trees as well as most of the grass. Luckily, it
only killed a few spots of grass, although I think it might be why the
daffodils in the lawn did so badly this year and the crocuses didn't bloom.
The grass looks awful this year, with small dead spots still, but it's
starting to fill in. I'll reseed those spots next week and by next year
it will be OK again.
I usually broadcast cheap agricultural fertilizer by hand *very* lightly
in the spring (a high nitrogen blend, like maybe 20-3-3 or 15-5-10.) I
use a mulching mower so the grass can recycle the nutrients. (last year
I bagged my clippings because I was trying to get rid of the excess
nutrients). In the fall I fertilizer very lightly with something like
10-20-10. I don't worry about nutsedge or crabgrass, I just keep them
mowed. I spot treat dandelions and thistles and plantains with a spray
bottle of 2,4-d. Other weeds cannot compete with the grass as long as
it is mowed regularly.
Best regards,
Bob
animaux
It will not wash through, but out and over and down into our storm drains, which
is what is causing a major problem with hydrilla in our creeks.
Sundar Narasimhan
>
> I don't know where you are, but I've had good luck here in New England
> with the Espoma products, which is an organic line of fertilizers. I
> use it twice a year, spring and fall, and have a wonderful lawn. Take
> care from now on, and good luck with your lawn!
Hi, Ann: I live in zone 5, and have heard of Espoma.. do you have
pointers to
stores that might carry Espoma products in New England (I haven't seen
them in those that I frequent)? Thanks.
JNJ
which
> is what is causing a major problem with hydrilla in our creeks.
(http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/watershed/hydrilla.htm)
That's certainly unpleasant. Although I see the obvious issue, this is just
one contributing factor to the hydrilla problem (which actually affects much
of the US). This plant is a nasty little bugger.
Unfortunately, in this user's case what is done is done. There are only two
real solutions to her issue -- either it washes through/out of her property
or she digs up and replaces the soil. I doubt she's going to be willing to
excavate her property and it's probably not realistic as this is the rainy
season still in much of the US and she won't get a crew there in time.
Hopefully, we can continue to tout the benefits of organic & naturalist
approaches while convincing her to avoid the use of chemicals.
James
Berob
"Stephen M. Henning" <pig...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:pighash-AA346B...@netnews.worldnet.att.net...
Ann
>Hi, Ann: I live in zone 5, and have heard of Espoma.. do you have
>pointers to
>stores that might carry Espoma products in New England (I haven't seen
>them in those that I frequent)? Thanks.
I buy mine down at Plymouth Farm & Garden, if you go to
http://www.espoma.com there's a store finder/locator you can plug your
zipcode into to find a store near you.
animaux
>Weed and Feed products are NEVER pre-emergents.
>
On the right hand side of the page, four paragraphs down.
Stephen M. Henning
> >Weed and Feed products are NEVER pre-emergents.
then animaux <ani...@0923ujfa.com> wrote:
> http://www.scotts.com/index.cfm?poeSiteId=10926&partnerId=99999&fuseaction=Pro
> ductGuide.CategoryHome&strCategoryId=23671
Scotts' Madison Avenue types really messed up that website. It says:
'Lawn Weed & Feed - Nourish your lawn while you stop broadleaf and
grassy weeds. Deliver even and gradual nutrients plus guaranteed
pre-emergent herbicides to your lawn.'
If you actually go on to read the site, the premergence product is
'Scotts(R) Turf Builder(R) With Halts(R) Crabgrass Preventer' in which the
active ingredient is: 1.71% Pendimethalin, a preemergence herbicide that
does not kill weeds.
"America's favorite weed and feed" is 'Scotts(R) Turf Builder(R) With PLUS
2(R) Weed Control' in which the active ingredients are: 1.21% 2,4-D,
0.61% MCPP, neither of which is a preemergence product.
Premergence products include:
1) Balan (benefin)
* Statesman Crabgrass Control for Established Lawns 1.72% G
* Lebanon Balan 2.5% G
* Pennington Penngreen Crabgrass Preventer 2.5% G
2) Team (benefin + trifluralin)
* Ace Crabgrass Preventer with Fertilizer 1.25% G on 25-3-10
* Fertilome Crabgrass Preventer & Lawn Food 1.15% G on 28-3-3
* Hi-Yield Crabgrass Control 2% G
* KGro Premium Crabgrass Preventer Plus Fertilizer 1.25% G on 28-3-4
* Lebanon Team 2% G
* Lebanon 20-3-5 with Team 1.16% G
* Sta-Green Crabgrass Preventer, Team 2.5% G
* Sta-Green Crabgrass Preventer plus Fertilizer, Team 1.28% G
* Wal-Mart Super Team Crabgrass Preventer plus Lawn Fertilizer 1.25% G
on 18-3-6
3) Halts (pendimethalin)
* Scotts Halts Crabgrass Preventer 1.71% G
* Scotts Turf Builder plus Halts 1.21% G on 28-3-4
None are weed and feed products. That is because the preemergence
products are aimed at crabgrass seeds and not weeds. They could be
called deseed and feed. Never expect a preemergence product to kill
weeds. They don't.
louie...@gmail.com
larrysb...@gmail.com
Agree. I had similar problem, added peat moss last year in error and killed grass. Water, seeding didnt help. This year, added about 1/2 to 3/4 inches of potting soil, sprinkled and raked in general sun&shade type seed, watered every day to keep seed wet. in 1-2 weeks started to see it coming up. Now been 3-4 weeks, almost like a pro golf course. Very little work, no critical procedures. Just daily watering if no rain.
rosh colman
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