The Roses FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
Dave Amorde
Subject: Roses FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
Date: Wednesday, June 03, 1998 5:07 PM
This document, posted monthly, is part one of a six part series of documents
about roses, and deals with general rose culture.
Part two contains a glossary of rose related terms, including some which are
also covered elsewhere.
Part three contains a list of commercial suppliers of roses and related
items. It is a little dated, however.
Part four is about Old Garden Roses (OGRs) These are classes of roses that
were in existance prior to the introduction of the first Hybrid Tea, even if
the particular variety is a more recent introduction.
Part five covers Modern Roses - Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, etc. - excluding
English Roses.
Part six covers English Roses - by strict definition, these are also
"modern," since the class is a recent creation. However, they reintroduce
many of the characteristics of the once-blooming OGRs in a hardy,
repeat-blooming shrub or climber.
Instructions for obtaining the other parts of the FAQ are given below.
"Newbies" are encouraged to obtain them, read them, and join the rest of us
in some hearty discussion about the Queen of Flowers.
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Frequently Asked Questions about Roses
Version: 2.10 Last-modified: 12 Sep 1996
Written by Bill Chandler, chan...@onr.com
Modified by Dave Amorde, dave....@startelcorp.com
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Information about this document
[1.1] Welcome
[1.2] What's New with the FAQ
[1.3] How to get the FAQ
2. Rose Care
[2.1] Why won't my rose bloom?
[2.2] How much sun do roses need?
[2.3] Which roses can be grown in shade?
[2.4] How much water do roses need?
[2.5] How do I deadhead roses?
[2.6] How do I prune roses?
[2.7] How do I protect my rose bushes during the winter?
[2.8] How do I prepare the soil for a new rose bed?
3. Diseases/Insects
[3.1] My rose has black spots on the leaves, what do I do?
[3.2] How do I avoid powdery mildew?
[3.3] How do I get rid of aphids?
[3.4] What is eating holes in the leaves of my rose?
4. Rose Characteristics
[4.1] Which is the most fragrant rose?
[4.2] What kind of rose do I have?
[4.3] Are there any Blue roses?
[4.4] Are there any Black roses?
[4.5] What are David Austin roses or English roses?
5. Miscellaneous
[5.1] How do I propagate roses?
[5.2] What is an ARS rating?
[5.3] What if I have more questions?
6. FAQ contributors
7. Disclaimer/Copyright
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
1. Information about this document
[1.1] Welcome
Welcome to "The Rose FAQ", a collection of six informative articles about
roses. These articles are primarily available on the World Wide Web at
http://www.mc.edu/~nettles/rofaq/rofaq-top.html . The FAQ is sometimes
posted in text format to the newsgroup rec.gardens.roses. This article, the
first of six, discusses Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) in the Usenet
newsgroup rec.gardens.roses. If you are new to the newsgroup
rec.gardens.roses, you might want to read this article before posting
questions to the newsgroup. There are additional FAQ articles which discuss
Old Roses, Modern Roses, English Roses, and mail-order suppliers of roses.
Note that many things related to growing roses will depend upon your local
climate. Contact your local rose society or nursery to find out how to grow
roses in your area.
[1.2] What's New with the FAQ
The FAQ has received only minor changes during the last few months.
[1.3] How to get the FAQ.
The best way to get the FAQ is on the world wide web at the URL
http://www.mc.edu/~nettles/rofaq/rofaq-top.html .
This document is also sometimes posted to the Usenet newgroups
rec.gardens.roses, rec.answers, and news.answers.
Other ways to obtain the faq are
ANONYMOUS FTP to rtfm.mit.edu (18.181.0.24) and get the files
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part1
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part2
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part3
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part4
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part5
ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part6
EMAIL(for those without ftp access) send email to mail-...@rtfm.mit.edu
with no subject and
send usenet/news.answers/gardens/roses-faq/part1
in the body of the mail message. Parts 2-6 can be obtained the same way as
part 1.
2. Rose Care
[2.1] Why won't my rose bloom?
Here are some of the reasons that roses don't bloom.
The rose plant is not getting enough sun. Roses need at least 6 hours of
direct sun a day to perform well.
The rose needs more water. Roses like at least an inch of water per week
during the growing season.
The plant has been given too much fertilizer, especially Nitrogen. Too much
fertilizer can either damage the plant or cause it to grow extra leaves and
stems at the expense of blooms.
The rose is a new plant. Don't expect too much from a plant during its first
year.
Rose is a once blooming variety. This means it will bloom only once a year
in the late spring or early summer.
Soil pH is too low or too high. If the pH is not in the range of 6.0 to 6.8
(ideally 6.5) then nutrient uptake will be reduced, and the plant won't be
getting the food it needs to produce flowers.
Not enough foliage. If the bush doesn't have adequate foliage, it can't
produce the food it needs to make new flowers. Inadequate foliage may result
from disease or too little fertilizer.
[2.2] How much sun do roses need?
Roses prefer a full day of sun. Give roses at least 6 hours of direct sun a
day. Morning sun is especially important because it dries the leaves which
helps prevent disease.
[2.3] Which roses can be grown in shade?
In general, roses do poorly in shady conditions. Plants bloom less, are
leggy, and are more likely to get diseases. However, many Hybrid Musks and
some Albas can tolerate partial shade. The Floribunda "Gruss An Aachen" can
be grown in partial shade.
Some other roses that may grow in partial shade are the Rugosas,
Iceberg(FB), Zephirine Drouhin (Bourbon), Souvenir du Docteur Jamain(HP) and
Madame Plantier.
[2.4] How much water do roses need?
Roses appreciate lots of water. Water generously, at least 1 inch/week,
preferably 2 inches/week during growing season. Water every 4-7 days during
the summer when needed. Each bush needs about 4-5 gallons/week during the
hot summer.
Roses get all their food either through their leaves (foliar feeding) or
through their roots. The only medium for transporting food is water.
Infrequent deep watering is preferred to frequent light watering to help
promote a deep root system. Deep root systems help the rose to survive both
droughts, and winter freezes. Frequent, light watering causes roots to form
very near the soil surface, making the plant more susceptible to summer
'baking' and winter freezes.
Try to avoid getting the leaves wet (which promotes disease) when watering
late in the day. However, on hot days wetting the foliage can reduce
transpiration and relieves heat stress.
[2.5] How do I deadhead roses?
Deadheading is cutting off flowers as they wither or don't look as good. Old
blooms left on the plant may have been pollinated and may begin to form seed
pods (hips). The formation of hips requires a lot of energy from the plant
and slows flower production. By preventing the formation of hips,
deadheading encourages the rose bush to grow new flowers.
The choice of which spot to deadhead at is influenced by what shape you want
the bush to take, and which direction you want a particular cane to grow.
Usually, you will want to cut the stem at a 45-degree angle just above an
outward-facing leaf. Make sure the high side of the cut is the side the leaf
set is on.
To deadhead, remove the flower by making a diagonal cut just above the next
5 or 7-leaf branch down on the stem. The idea is to cut to a bud eye capable
of producing a healthy cane. If this would cause too much of the cane to be
removed, a 3-leaf branch can be chosen instead. The first year cut back to
the first 3 or 5-leaf branch. In following years cut far enough down to get
to a 5-leaf branch with a leaf bud that is facing outward. This will open up
the plant.
Once blooming roses do not need to be deadheaded. They bloom once and then
they are finished blooming for the year. However, once-blooming roses may be
(in fact, should be) pruned after they are finished blooming. They should
NOT be pruned in the fall or before they bloom because they bloom on the
previous year's growth.
Stop deadheading as of September 1 in zones 4 and 5. It is a good practice
to let the last roses on HT's produce hips because it makes them more frost
hardy. It causes the plant to undergo chemical changes that slow down
growth, inhibit blooming and generally prepare for dormancy by focusing its
energy on 'hardening' the canes. The formation of hips tells the plant that
it's "done its job" and can now rest from its labors.
[2.6] How do I prune roses?
There are three main purposes to be accomplished when pruning roses.
Keep the plant healthy.
Encourage the plant to grow in a desired shape.
Encourage blooming, either more blooms or larger blooms.
The proper tool for most pruning is a sharp clean set of bypass pruners.
Anvil pruners should not be used for roses as they crush the stem being cut.
A saw or lopping shears may be used to cut very large canes (1/2 inch
diameter or greater) All pruning cuts on canes greater than 1/4 inch
diameter should be sealed with nail polish or glue to prevent cane borers
from entering.
Proper pruning will help keep a rose bush healthy. Dead and diseased wood
should be removed as soon as possible to prevent further damage to the bush.
The future shape of the bush can be influenced by the location of each
pruning cut. Opening up the bush to increase air circulation will help
prevent diseases. Since rose bushes like to send out a strong lateral cane
at the node just below a pruning cut, try to make pruning cuts about 1/4
inch above an "outward" facing leaf bud. By doing this and removing plant
material from the center of the bush you will create a more open vase-shaped
plant less susceptible to disease. Whenever two canes cross each other, one
can be removed.
Roses can be encouraged to bloom better if thin, weak and non-productive
wood is removed to allow the plant to concentrate its blooming on the larger
healthier canes. Generally with Hybrid Teas any cane thinner than a pencil
should be removed. Plants may be pruned hard to encourage larger blooms but
fewer blooms (commonly done with Hybrid Teas.) Or the plant may be pruned
lightly and allowed to grow larger and produce more flowers that are smaller
(commonly done with some shrub roses.) Prune first year plants only lightly
to allow them to concentrate on establishing a strong root system.
[2.7] How do I protect my rose bushes during the winter?
Local advice is preferred for this question, but here are some general
guidelines for winter care of rose bushes for those living in colder
climates. The major dangers to the plant in winter are the drying of the
wind, the effect of alternate thawing and freezing cycles on the plant when
winter temperatures fluctuate, the inability of the plant to take in water
if the soil is frozen, and damage from the cold itself to the canes and bud
union.
If you live in an area with harsh winters, plant cold-hardy roses. Your
choices are more restricted that way, but you will save yourself a lot of
work and heartbreak. Many once blooming old roses are very cold-hardy. Of
the repeat blooomers, rugosas are rock-hardy, and many Austins and other
shrub roses will do okay. Many yellow and lavender roses are especially
tender. Unfortunately cold-hardiness is not an exact science; conditions
such as wind affect roses severely in cold weather (by drying them out), and
so zone ratings are only a first approximation. Beware of books that rate
roses 'cold hardy' or 'not cold hardy'---they are likely referring to
conditions in the UK, which has mild winters. Beware also of catalogs that
overrate cold-hardiness because they want to move more product.
When in doubt, plant own-root roses. If they die back to the ground in a
particularly severe winter, they will grow back from the roots fairly
quickly. This advice is not applicable to once-bloomers, because these
usually flower only on the last year's canes. Own-root Old Roses and English
roses are available. Hybrid Teas are almost always sold as grafted plants,
and it is difficult to find own-root plants.
In the fall, reduce the amount of Nitrogen fertilizer used. This, combined
with lower temperatures, will slow the production of new tender growth, and
will allow the existing growth to harden off.
Stop deadheading about September 1 for zones 4 and 5. This will allow the
plant to form hips. The formation of hips encourages the plant to slow down
growth, slow blooming, and harden the canes, all preparing the plant for
dormancy.
Understanding rose dormancy will help to determine the proper time to prune
during the period from late Fall to early Spring. During dormancy, the sap
has left the canes and the canes are simply empty tubes of cellulose.
Pruning too early (before the sap runs back) cuts some of the nutrients out,
so you must be sure the plant is dormant before fall (winter) pruning.
Winter dieback generally occurs from the end of the branches (canes).
Pruning removes the available length that can die back before reaching the
ground. Also, pruning a semidormant plant stimulates growth and sap flow in
the pruned region. For a plant going dormant, this is bad because it
inhibits dormancy. For a plant waking up (springtime) it's good because it
stimulates growth. Ideally pruning should occur before sap is fully flowing.
To prevent disease/fungus from overwintering, clean the rose bed by removing
leaves and other debris. Spray the bush with dormant oil to kill bacteria on
the bush and on the ground.
Protect the crown of the rose. This is critical since the crown is where you
want the new canes to come from. There are several methods of protection to
choose from.
Cover the bed at least a foot deep with tree leaves. Do not use rose leaves
as they may harbor disease. Oak leaves are best as they seem to drain
better.
Cover the bed with straw.
Use rose cones.
Make a mound with soil or mulch to cover the crown.
Wrap the whole plant in burlap if necessary, in addition to one of above
methods of protecting the crown.
Timing is important. Covering the rose too early is unwise as it may prevent
the rose from hardening properly and will slow the onset of dormancy.
Covering the rose too late may risk damage from the cold.
Climbers or long canes may benefit from being tied to avoid thrashing from
the wind. Canes may be protected from drying winter winds by wrapping them
in burlap with a layer of straw for insulation. In severe climates long
canes may need to be tied and buried.
Keep the soil well-drained, especially as the spring rains come.
[2.8] How do I prepare the soil for a new rose bed?
?? under construction
3. Diseases/Insects
[3.1] My rose has black spots on the leaves, what do I do?
Blackspot is a fungus that causes black spots about 1/16 to 1/2 inches in
diameter to form on the leaves and sometimes stems. The infected leaves
later turn yellow around the spots and eventually fall from the plant. In
bad cases, blackspot can severely defoliate a rose bush. The conditions that
promote blackspot are wet leaves, splashing water and warm temperatures.
Here are some ways to combat blackspot. Most of these methods also apply to
preventing and treating powdery mildew.
Pick a variety of rose resistant to blackspot. For example, many Rugosas are
quite resistant to blackspot.
Use watering methods that don't get the leaves wet: drip watering, using a
soaker hose, or just soaking the ground with a light stream from a garden
hose. If overhead watering is used, do so in the morning so the leaves can
dry off before evening.
Remove ALL diseased leaves from the plant or ground immediately to prevent
further spreading of the disease. Infected leaves never get better, they
just spread the disease. Prune infected canes severely in late winter.
Prune away crossing canes and open the center of the bush to allow sunlight
and airflow to more of the plant.
Blackspot is transmitted by water splash. Remove leaves close to the ground
(the first 6-8 inches) which are more susceptible to getting water splashed
on them. Mulch well to minimize water splashing onto leaves. If a plant had
a lot of blackspot the previous year, remove the old mulch in early Spring,
allow the area to dry and replace with clean new mulch.
Keep the plant well watered. A weak or stressed plant is more susceptible to
disease.
Preventative spray treatments for blackspot
Chemical fungicides can be very effective in preventing blackspot and are
usually applied every 7-14 days. It is most important to spray the
undersides of the leaves. FOLLOW THE LABEL DIRECTIONS EXACTLY. Too much
fungicide can cause leaf burn. It is best if rose plants are watered well
before spraying. Spraying during very hot weather can damage leaves. Early
morning and early evening are the best times to spray. Avoid spraying under
windy conditions. READ THE PRODUCT LABEL carefully and wear proper equipment
when spraying, such as eye, mouth and nose protection.
Since a single fungicide may not completely wipe out all the fungi, using
that fungicide over and over may actually cause fungus to build up a
resistance to that fungicide. Alternating between two fungicides, such as
Triforine (Funginex) and Daconil, is recommended to keep resistant fungi
from building up. Fungicides generally can prevent blackspot, but do not
cure an existing case of blackspot.
Some gardeners wishing to avoid fungicide use have tried using baking soda
to help prevent blackspot with mixed results. Combine 1 1/2 tablespoon
baking soda and either 2 tablespoons horticultural oil or a few drops of
Ivory liquid with 1 gallon of water. Mix as well as possible, and spray both
sides of the leaves once a week. The Ivory liquid helps the baking soda
stick to the leaves. Reapply after a rain. Baking soda changes the P.H. of
the leaves, helping to prevent blackspot. Spraying with baking soda works
for some gardeners, but others have found that baking soda is not effective
enough in their climate.
[3.2] How do I avoid powdery mildew?
This fungus forms a powdery white or grayish coating on the upper surface of
young leaves and sometimes on the buds. Infected leaves crumple and become
distorted.
Unlike blackspot, wet conditions actually inhibit the development of powdery
mildew. It can not reproduce in water. It thrives during high humidity but
forms on dry leaves. Warm dry days, cool dry nights are ideal for powdery
mildew.
One of the best ways to avoid powdery mildew is to keep things as airy as
possible. Roses planted too close to a wall may not get enough airflow.
Prune away crossing canes and open the center of the bush to allow sunlight
and airflow.
Also, spraying the foliage with a mixture of 1 T. baking soda per 1 gallon
of water can be effective.
[3.3] How do I get rid of aphids?
Aphids are tiny insects about a 1/16 to 1/8 inches long, usually light
green, red or black. They come in the spring and damage tender new growth.
A hard spray of water from the hose will help remove aphid infestations.
Aphids reproduce quickly and this may need to be repeated every couple days
for a couple weeks.
Aphids have a mutually beneficial relationship with ants, so ants need to be
controlled if aphids are to be controlled. Ladybugs are a natural predator
of aphids and can be used to control aphids. If ladybugs are purchased,
water the area well and release the ladybugs around sunset to discourage
them from leaving.
[3.4] What is eating holes in the leaves of my rose?
Leaf cutter bees cut semi-circle shaped holes in the leaves of roses. They
pose no real threat to rose health, but they drive exhibitors crazy.
4. Rose Characteristics
[4.1] Which is the most fragrant rose?
Here is a list of some very fragrant roses as recommended by posts to the
newsgroup rec.gardens.roses.
HT: Double Delight (mentioned most often), spicey, red-white bicolor
HT: Fragrant Cloud, reddish-orange
HT: Mr. Lincoln, dark red
HT: Crimson Glory, red
HT: Chrysler Imperial, red
HT: Papa Meilland, dark red
HT: Perfume Delight, pink
HT: Secret
ER: Gertrude Jekyll, pink
ER: Othello, dark red
Alba: Felicite Parmentier, once-blooming
Damask: Mme. Hardy, white, once-blooming
Tea: Sombreuil, cream-white
Bourbon: Souvenir de la Malmasion
HP: Souvenir du Dr Jamain
Many of the David Austin roses are fragrant. So are many of the Old Roses,
such as the Damasks.
[4.2] What kind of rose do I have?
When posting this question to the newsgroup, include as much information
about the rose as possible, such as the following:
what kind of rose is it? (climber, Hybrid Tea, Old Rose, Species, etc.)
approximate plant size (4ft tall by 4ft wide)
flower color, bud color, flower size (4 inch diameter),
approximate number of petals per flower
foliage color (light, medium, or dark green)
foliage description (dull, shiny, leathery, large, small, etc.)
how many leaflets per leaf on average (3,5,7, etc.)
once blooming (blooms once a year) or repeat blooming
thorns (many, few, large, hooked, straight)
fragrance (none, light, heavy, spicy, fruity, tea, etc.)
[4.3] Are there any Blue roses?
Though highly sought after, no blue roses exist yet. Some roses are
advertised as blue, but they are actually lavender or something. Most
lavender roses are difficult to grow and are quite susceptible to disease.
Some of the bluer roses are Blue Girl, Blue Jay(HT), and Reine des
Violettes(HP). A couple of true purple roses are Cardinal de Richelieu and
Veilchenblau.
The genetics are just not there for producing a true blue color in roses. It
will probably be necessary to use gene splicing to produce the first blue
rose.
[4.4] Are there any Black roses?
No true black roses exist. Some roses sold as black roses are actually dark
red or maroon. The petals of many of these dark red roses tend to sunburn
easily. To see that a rose is not truly black, hold it up next to a piece of
black construction paper. To make a dark red rose appear blacker, put its
stem in water that has black ink in it.
Below is an incomplete list of some roses that have been mentioned when
black roses are discussed. Next to some of the roses a very subjective
description of the color is given.
Black Jade: dark red miniature
Cardinal de Richelieu: dark purple Gallica
Chateau de Clos-Vougeot: HT, deep red blossoms, blackish highlights, poor
growth
Francis Dubreuil: Tea rose
Guinee: very, very dark red
Ink Spots:
Mr. Lincoln: HT, dark red
Nuits de Young: purple Moss rose
Oklahoma: HT, deep crimson
Souvenir du Dr Jamain: Hybrid Perpetual, dark red/maroon
Sympathie: deep red climber
Taboo: Popular dark rose that has deep red flowers with darker edges. It
reportedly has nearly black buds.
The Prince: English rose, very, very dark red/purple
Tuscany Superb: Gallica, deep maroon velvet
[4.5] What are David Austin roses or English roses?
In 1969, English Roses, often called David Austin Roses, were introduced by
the English rose hybridizer David Austin.
David Austin tried to create roses that combine the best elements of Old
Roses (roses varieties from before 1867) and Modern Roses (such as Hybrid
Teas, Floribundas and Grandifloras). Most English Roses have flowers
resembling Old Rose flowers, cupped and rosette-shaped old-fashioned
flowers, usually with many petals. English Roses generally repeat flower
well, like the Hybrid Teas and other Modern Roses. English Roses are
available in a wide variety of colors, such as yellows not very common in
Old Roses. Many English Roses have the strong fragrances of some of the Old
Roses.
There is a FAQ article called 'English Roses' which is part 6/6 of the FAQ.
5. Miscellaneous
[5.1] How do I propagate roses?
There are two primary ways to propagate roses. Asexual reproduction is
usually used to produce a duplicate of the parent plant. Sexual
reproduction, i.e. growing roses from seed, is primarily used to create new
varieties of roses.
Common methods of asexual propagation of roses are softwood rooting,
hardwood rooting, and bud grafting. Limited space permits only a brief
description of softwood rooting.
Old Roses, English Roses and Miniatures are generally good candidates for
rooting cuttings because they usually grow vigorously on their own roots.
Modern Roses such as Hybrid Teas and Floribundas are usually sold budded
onto different rootstock. Some Modern Roses do grow vigorously on their own
roots, while others do not. Below is a description of softwood rooting from
Karen Baldwin with some changes.
ROSE PROPAGATION A LA ZIPLOCK BAGGIES
MAKING THE CUTTING
Preferably take a cutting on which the bloom is barely spent, so that all
the petals have just recently dropped off. It is okay to take a cutting
earlier, but at least make sure color is showing in the bud. These are
indications of the maturity of the wood in the stem -- you want something in
between the extremes of greenwood and hardwood.
Try to have at least four separate leafsets under the bloom, and a
five-leaflet set at the bottom of the cutting. (Each spot where the leafsets
meet the stem forms a "node," where the bud eyes are, and from which roots
can form. Hybrid teas tend to have fewer "nodes" spaced farther apart than
Old World roses, and thus require a longer cutting, generally speaking).
Make a clean bottom cut with a sharp, clean pruning tool 1" below the last
node. Try to leave about 1/2" of cane above the top leafset.
Keep your cuttings fresh in water while you gather more, until you're ready
to plant them.
PLANTING THE CUTTING:
Fill a 1-gallon zip lock baggie 1/4 to 1/3 full (about 3") with STERILE
loose potting mix. (e.g., 1/2 peter's potting soil and 1/2 vermiculite). A
2-gallon ziplock baggie may be better since it will give the leaves more
room, but use the same depth of soil you'd use in a 1-gallon baggie, since
you'll be watching for roots growing through it, later.
Moisten the mix but do not make it extremely wet. Use 1 tsp. miracle gro per
1 quart of water, to provide some initial nutrients (which may help avoid
yellowing and leaf-drop). With your hands, firm the soil down well, within
the baggie. The soil should be very damp, but there should be no standing
water in the bottom.
Snip off the stem a little above the top-most leaf set (i.e., remove the
flowering part). Try to leave about 1/2" of cane above the top leafset.
Strip off the bottom two sets of leaves (where the stem will be pushed into
the soil).
Score the bottom part of the stem along its length (vertically) for an inch
or so. (An exacto-knife works nicely for this purpose, but fingernails will
do fine.) Roots will form along this score.
Dip scored end of cutting into rooting compound, a couple inches deep. Knock
off the excess (you can get too thick a layer). Stick the cutting a couple
of inches into the soil.
If insects have eaten the leaves during previous rooting attempts, you may
wish sprinkle a very small amount of diazinon or other insecticide on the
soil surface. Be especially careful if you are using chemicals indoors.
Mist the cutting and the interior surfaces of the baggie with a spray bottle
filled with the following mix (to avoid fungus and mildew growth in the
closed "terrarium" environment). Do not use spraycan fungicides or
insecticides ... in the closed environment, the chemicals can overwhelm then
kill a new young plant. 1 quart water 1 tsp. miracle gro 1 tsp. baking soda
(no more!) 2-3 drops dishwashing liquid (to make it cling)
Zip baggie almost shut. Breathe into it 'til it expands kinda like a
balloon, and zip the rest of the way closed. (Keep it closed unless it
deflates enough to warrant breathing into it again.)
Put in bright, INDIRECT light - (e.g., behind sheers in a southeast-facing
window) WARNING!!! if it gets direct sun or too much heat it will scorch
(eventually turning black) and likely die! You may have to experiment a bit
to find the best exposure; you might hedge your bets by placing some in
different locations until you find the best spot for your house.
Clear away any leaves that might drop from the stem, reinflating the baggie
after removing them.
POTTING THE CUTTING:
Look for roots along the bottom of the baggie in two or three weeks. A few
stubborn ones may take six weeks, and there is a report of one incredibly
obstinate plant that took over 10 weeks!
Acclimation to air outside the bag is tricky. To be careful, (1) when you
see some top growth, unzip the baggie just a little for a few hours the
first day, then seal it up again. (2) For the next few days, unzip the
baggie the same amount, but leave it open for a few more hours each day. (3)
Next, leave it open all the time, but increase the amount the bag is
unzipped each day for about a week, until it's fully open. Don't rush it.
Put good soil into a 1-gallon pot, leaving room for the addition of the new
plant and its soil. Place the baggie atop the soil, and cut the plastic away
(this can be slightly tricky). Firm the soil around the plant only very
lightly.
Keep the same lighting in the same location (protected from too much direct
sun) for a week, leaving the cutting unmolested to give its disturbed roots
a chance to heal.
PLANTING OUTDOORS:
After they have spent a week in their pots, you can either move them into
more light inside for the first winter), or (preferably) move them outside.
When moved outside, set them in indirect sun at first, bright but shaded,
and leave them there for a week. (If your area gets cold at night, you may
need to move them inside at night for a while.) The next week, move the
plant bit by bit toward and then into full sun. (Note: Gro-lights don't
normally put out nearly enough light for roses, though it can probably be
done.)
When kept inside for their first winter, especially in zones 5 and below,
place them in a spot where they'll get more light. (When planted outside in
the same summer they were rooted, even with a heavy mulch, many more will be
lost to winter kill since the new little roses won't always have enough
roots to carry them through. Also, chinooks (intense, warm winds) do their
damage too. By keeping them inside for their first winter, and planting them
in the spring, they will be better-established by the next fall.)
Plant late enough to avoid those nasty springs that get warm, causing the
roses to break dormancy, only to follow up with a hard freeze!
Remember that your rose will grow in size; prepare a good-sized area of soil
with added organic material as appropriate to your locale.
Cheryl Netter has a World Wide Web page with three descriptions on how to
root roses using softwood cuttings. They can be found by going to the URL,
http://nexus.interealm.com/p/cnetter/rose_tour/index.html . Cheryl Netter's
WWW home page with some excellent rose pictures and information is located
at the URL, http://nexus.interealm.com/p/cnetter .
[5.2] What is an ARS rating?
An ARS (American Rose Society) rating is a yearly rating from 1(worst) to
10(best) given to a variety of rose. This is a U.S. national rating,
combining several district ratings. The district ratings are an average of
individual ratings given by rose growers, beginners to experienced.
The ARS ratings are print yearly in the "Handbook for Selecting Roses". It
can be obtained from the address below:
American Rose Society
P.O. Box 30,000
Shreveport, LA 71130-0030
phone: (318) 938-5402
The American Rose Society has an excellent World Wide Web page at
http://www.ars.org .
[5.3] What if I have more questions?
Good question! Besides checking the references noted above, you are heartily
invited to post any questions you might have to the newsgroup from where
this FAQ was compiled - rec.gardens.roses. However, I would like to make a
few suggestions that might enhance your newsgroup experience. First, always
specify in your post or signature file the area/region of the world in which
you live. If you live in the USA, specify the USDA hardiness zone you are
in. If you do not know your zone, a quick call to your local nursery, or a
glance at any gardening catalog you may be receiving, should be all that is
necessary to find it out. Many questions about identifying roses "found" in
the garden are often received by the group. Your chances at getting a
correct identification are greatly improved if you can include the following
information:
* Plant height, width and overall shape (an upright vase, or a
sprawling mound?)
* Color of: new leaves, mature leaves, flower buds, flower petals
(top and underside) and stamens.
* Average number of: petals per bloom, leaflets per leaf. blooms per
stem (single or cluster flowered.)
* Fragrance, or lack-there-of.
* Texture of the leaves - smooth, deeply ridged, degree of seration,
etc.
* Size and frequency of prickles (thorns.)
[5.4] What if I get conflicting answers?
Unless your question is of the strict yes/no variety, most questions
regarding rose culture have many "right" and many "wrong" answers. Each
respondent will do his/her best to answer your question based on a
combination of acquired knowledge coupled with personal experience. The more
specific your question is, the better your chances are at getting a specific
answer that most rosarians can agree upon. If you ask "what is the best red
rose?" you will definitely get many different answers. If you ask "what is
the best red, repeat-blooming, fragrant climber, hardy to zone 5a ?" you
will get fewer answers that better match your requirements. Also, it is a
good idea to let people know whether or not you intend to exhibit your roses
at a rose show - exhibitors have a much stricter set of guidlines to follow,
regarding both plant selection and culture. Many of the regular contributors
to rec.gardens.rose are exhibitors, and their advice may or may not reflect
this.
6. FAQ contributors
The FAQ was compiled by Bill Chandler at chan...@onr.com and posted by Dave
Amorde at dave....@startelcorp.com . This FAQ has been created by the
generous efforts of several readers of rec.gardens.roses. The following
individuals, and others, have made suggestions and/or contributions to the
FAQ (parts 1 through 6).
Jolene Adams
Karen Baldwin
Kristine Carroll
Brent Dickerson
Pascal A. Dupuis
Pulak Dutta
Johanes Kalbus
John McCully
Kathleen Much
Cheryl Netter
William Nettles
7. Disclaimer/Copyright
This disclaimer applies to all parts of the FAQ. The FAQ articles are
intended as amateur information. Use FAQ information at your own risk,
especially regarding chemicals. Trade names used in the FAQ are solely for
the purpose of providing specific information. Mention of businesses or
trade names does not signify approval of any business or products.
"The Rose FAQ" is copyrighted 1996. Before reprinting a FAQ article (or
major portions of one) for other than personal use, please obtain permission
from the author of the article.
end of Frequently Asked Questions about Roses
rec.gardens.roses FAQ, part 1/6
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