I have been using Orthenex in my general insect controll spraying. I have
been buying and using the 16 Fl oz size, but have run out. I have looked in
five different stores and can't find it.
So, what should I look for to use on my orchids (just over 100 plants)? I have
spotted a couple of plants that have some cottony scale. I have used it
because it is systemic.
Thanks.
Chris in Central Florida
(Remove not from the address to respond directly.)
.
There is a Bayer product with imiploprid as well as a systemic
K Barrett
FWIW, I used to use Orthenex. It worked, but not nearly as well as Orthene.
With the former, I'd find that the time of control before return of critters
was a couple of months. So I was treating fairly often. With Orthene I spray
probably twice a year (a double spray each time) and all is well. For
isolated stuff I can always use a canned spray or alcohol. You might need to
order the Orthene if you don't have a supply vendor nearby, but IMO it's
worth it.
Now, if someone could tell me what to do about my gardenias, which are thrip
magnets, then I'd be home free altogether. I've used the same treatments on
them and have also tried the Bayer product. The bugs just keep coming. If it
weren't for a sentimental attachment they'd be ripped out by now. And they
may yet get trashed.
Diana
"K Barrett" <morm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Geoff
Austin, TX
"Diana Kulaga" <diand...@pussycatproductions.net> wrote in message
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Yes, turf, tree and ornamentals. It is systemic, but seems to have some
residual topical effects too. It's water soluble.
I did a little checking. Apparently, last year the Orthene product line was
sold by Valent to American Vanguard. Both are based in CA. Here's a link to
the label info:
I swear by it. You can find plenty of outlets for it with a quick Google
search. Many of the supply vendors in this area carry it.
Diana
"Wendy7" <nos...@this.com> wrote in message
news:cGpCl.2243$FR3...@newsfe04.iad...
Today, I went to two hardware stores in search of Orthenex. At the first
place, I found a similar product mfg'd by the Ortho Group. I then went to the
second store and found the same 'new' item, but at $2 less than at the first
place for a 16-oz bottle (liquid). The recommended dosage is the same for both
the Orthenex and this 'new' item. For comparison, I have included the
ingredients of the Orthenex and of the 'new' product.
Orthenex Ortho
Systemic Protection from Systemic Insect Killer Controls
Insects, Diseases, Mites Insects & Mites
Active Ingredients Active Ingredients
Acephate 4.00% Acephate 8.00%
Triforine 3.25 - -
Fenbutatin-oxide 0.75 Fenbutatin-oxide 0.5
(Hexakis) (Hexakis)
Other Ingredients 92.00 Other Ingredients 91.50
Unless anyone can say why I shouldn't use this product, I
think I will try it. I don't know what Triforine was suppose to do or why it
no longer is included.
Chris
I can't see why you couldn't use it, Chris. It appears to be more potent
than the older product. But reading the specs makes me understand why
Orthene is so much more effective. The percentage of acephate in Orthene is
huge compared to these other insecticides. I don't have any Orthenex around
so couldn't compare the labels before writing. Now I'm more convinced than
ever that Orthene is the way to go.
Diana
Triforine is an antifungal. The 'other ingredients' would be mostly
petroleum distillates which means don't spray unless the plants are
going to be completely dry before the sun hits them or they'll burn like
under a magnifying glass.
Orthenex is a combo deal - insecticide, miticide, fungicide - while orthene
is just the insecticide (the active one in Orthenex - acephate). While
Orthenex may have the "advantage" of being a broad-spectrum pesticide, I
usually recommend the Orthene instead, as it's 1) far more bang for the buck
from a bug-killing perspective (70% acephate & higher are commonly
available, as opposed to the 4% in the original Orthenex), and 2) water
soluble, so there is no need for the potentially-damaging hydrocarbons used
to keep the other ingredients of Orthenex in liquid form.
I also highly recommend the use of Enstar II, and insect growth regulator.
While stuff like Merit and Orthene kill on contact or with a temporary
residual systemic action, the IGR prevents all stages of the insect from
maturing, thereby preventing reproduction, which can really help collapse a
population.
--
Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!
"tenman" <ten...@nospam.com> wrote in message
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Chris
Can I mix it with Orthene? Or should it be used alone? I'm going to order
it.
Diana
"Ray B" <ray...@nospam.firstrays.com> wrote in message
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Diana
"Diana Kulaga" <diand...@pussycatproductions.net> wrote in message
news:lGRCl.26248$qa.1...@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
I seem to recall that Enstar (that "S" really ought to be a dollar sign) was
least expensive at some rose-related online store, but it's not cheap
anywhere.
--
Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!
"Diana Kulaga" <diand...@pussycatproductions.net> wrote in message
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Diana
"Ray B" <ray...@nospam.firstrays.com> wrote in message
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>> Acephate 4.00% Acephate
>> 8.00% --- insect (Orthene)
>> Triforine
>> - - --- disease (fungus)
>> Fenbutatin-oxide 0.75 Fenbutatin-oxide
>> --- mites
>> (Hexakis) (Hexakis)
>> Other Ingredients 92.00 Other Ingredients
>> --- filler
>>
Be careful with acephate while spikes are forming. In the plant, the
systemic tends to concentrate where the plant is actively growing and can
cause flower color breaks. I will use acephate this time of year, but I do
not use it on the phals between Sept and March. I would not become too wed
to acephate, there is a general move away from the organophosphates. I do
not think that any of the acephate products are labeled for greenhouse use
any more. The current buzz is for Safari (dinotefuran), another
neonicotinoid like the neonicotinoid imidacloprid found in Merit, Marathon,
and Bayer tree and shrub. People are reporting much better success with
Safari than with the imidacloprid based products. But at $350 per 3 pound
jug I have no first hand knowledge.
Pat
"Pat Brennan" <p...@NOTbrennansorchids.com> wrote in message
news:49de07c0$0$689$146...@unlimited.newshosting.com...
>
>
The other option is smoke. Light the can and run. I think all of the smoke
products are restricted use and the last time I looked only came in two
flavors; DDVP (organophosphate) and nicotine. I have found these products
to be very effective against whitefly, aphids, and thrips. But I have not
had much luck with these products against scale, mealybugs, and fungus
gnats. I do not think smoke is an option in Ca.
Pat
Wendy-
I had an ongoing problem with scale on the bromeliads. I fought it with
everything for two years. Last spring at repotting time, I filled a
50-gallon plastic 'sweater storage' tub I usually use for fertilizer
with a strong malathion solution and took each upotted plant and with
the use of my 'grabbies' (long tube with pincers on end usually used for
picking up trash on the lawn or retrieving hard-to-reach plants by the
pot), completely submerged (roots and all) and swirled them around in
that, one by one. No scale a year later. None. Zip. Nada.
I know one is usually hesitant to share solutions between orchids, but
if you just have a few or even a couple dozen plants which seem to be
the problem, this could be done in, say, a one- or two- gallon jug of
some sort, emptying and washing it out between plants and still only use
the same fifty gallons. I know it would be laborious, but it works!
Tennis
Diana
"Wendy7" <nos...@this.com> wrote in message
news:w8KDl.31397$9t6....@newsfe10.iad...
It's not easy to buy Enstar at a local shop. I can only find them from
online stores.
http://rosecare1.stores.yahoo.net/enstarii.html
http://www.orchidmix.com/cat3.htm
"KTTT" <KT...@noemail.com> wrote in message
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Diana
"Pat Brennan" <p...@NOTbrennansorchids.com> wrote in message
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? The chemicals must be used at their label mixing ratios
? The entire surface of every plant - and possibly the medium too - must be
covered
? The process needs to be repeated at weekly intervals - one repetition is
usually recommended on labels, but I find 3 treatments to be better.
--
Ray Barkalow - First Rays Orchids - www.firstrays.com
Plants, Supplies. Books, Artwork, and lots of Free Info!
"Wendy7" <nos...@this.com> wrote in message
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There used to be those insect bombs that contained pyrethrins, but you don't
grow in an enclosed space (patio etc) so these wouldn't necessarily help
you.
K
"Diana Kulaga" <diand...@pussycatproductions.net> wrote in message
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"Chris Savas" <gad...@notcfl.rr.com> wrote in message
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Thrips move fast. To the naked eye, they look thin and black. They can take
out a Vanda spike faster than you can blink an eye.
Diana
"eeyore" <eey...@100aw.invalid> wrote in message
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"Diana Kulaga" <diand...@pussycatproductions.net> wrote in message
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Diana
"eeyore" <eey...@100aw.invalid> wrote in message
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"Diana Kulaga" <diand...@pussycatproductions.net> wrote in message
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Diana
"eeyore" <eey...@100aw.invalid> wrote in message
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I've been looking at them for herbicides to reign in a bermuda grass
infestation around the garden.
>
--
Chris Dukes
< davej> eskimos have hundreds of words for snow. I have two. Bullshit.
> Hi, all,
>
> I have been using Orthenex in my general insect controll spraying. I have
> been buying and using the 16 Fl oz size, but have run out. I have looked in
> five different stores and can't find it.
>
> So, what should I look for to use on my orchids (just over 100 plants)? I
> have
> spotted a couple of plants that have some cottony scale. I have used it
> because it is systemic.
>
>
> Thanks.
> Chris in Central Florida
> (Remove not from the address to respond directly.)
>
> .
Since Orthenex was just Acephate, use another product with Acephate.
Any good garden shop will have it. Otherwise, go to Lesco and buy their
Lescophate product or contact Hick's Orchid Supply in east Orange County.