small white worms:-( what pesticide to use???

[Billy]

I've got a phalaenopsis (my first) and its been doing quite
well - two flowers and five new buds :-):-):-) It appears to
be quite happy in my shady window, but...:-(

I recently discovered an infestation of minute (perhaps one mm in
length, and the diameter of a human hair) white worm-like
bugs crawling in the media and over the roots. Not quite worms -
they move quickly for their size so they must have legs. I think
I even saw one jump. There's no bugs on the leaves or the flowers,
on in the media and on the roots. At the moment my my phal doesn't
appear to be suffering any ill effects from the infestation but
I think it only because I've caught it in its early stages.

I'd love some suggestions as to the proper pesticide to use and
the correct method of application.

Please respond to bbr...@10fold.com -or- v...@pacbell.net
as I don't get to this news group too often.

Many Thanks!!!
Bill

[Jennifer Millsap]

Billy <v...@pacbell.net> writes: > I've got a phalaenopsis (my first) and its been doing quite

Hi;

Bill has requested that his question be answered via E-mail. But I'd
like to request that if you can identify the pest and the solution, you
post it here too! I'd very much like to know the answer because it sounds
just like something I noticed on the exposed roots of my Brassia. My
response was to remove the plant from it's pot, clean and disinfect the
pot, rinse the roots under running water and re-pot in clean media. But
should I have used some sort of pesticide too?

Thanks
Jennifer

[Tim Meals]

Billy <v...@pacbell.net> wrote:
[ ... snip, snip ... ]

> I recently discovered an infestation of minute (perhaps one mm in
> length, and the diameter of a human hair) white worm-like
> bugs crawling in the media and over the roots. Not quite worms -

We're having a similar infestation we just discovered this morning
with our Cymbidium. On the flower heads, there are small, white
insects, approx. 1mm in length. With the naked eye, they look like
small mites. They gather at the stem of the flower in clumps, but
don't appear to be harming the orchid, although we too might have
caught it early.

If anyone has some organic cures, we would love to hear about them.
Pesticides are OK, but more of a last resort.

BTW, the Cymbidium is almost finished blooming, and we're getting
ready to move it outside again. Will these little parasites go away
if we move it outdoors?

All help and expertise is appreciated. We're just starting our orchid
empire (3 now -- Cym., Dendrobium and Cattleya) and are trying to find
out as much as we can.

Thanks in advance,
Tim & Christine Meals

--
Tim Meals
Electronic Marketing Specialist | "There can be no happiness,
Rebis Industrial Workgroup Software | except within yourself, in
tim....@rebis.com | your art."
http://www.rebis.com | -- Ludwig van Beethoven

[KATHY GUTH]

I hate to say it but my first impression was pinworms. I hope that's not
what it is. Repotting was probaably a wise idea. Hopefully they won't come
back but if they do I would take to a garden center for ID. K.

[Wayne Forrester]

Hi,

It's very difficult to ID pests without seeing them. What you have
could be one of at least a few different critters. Based on your
description of them, and the fact that you said you've even seen them
jump, I'ld guess that they might be a bug often referred to as
springtails. Springtails are small, white or silver looking bugs that are
commonly found in damp places. They feed on decomposing organic matter and
cause no damage to plants whatsoever, as far as I can tell. If they are
springtails, I would suggest doing nothing. You might want to get a small
magnifying glass, and find a picture of springtails in a book to see if
this is what you have. Hope this helps.

Wayne Forrester
forr...@mendel.berkeley.edu

In article <332B01...@pacbell.net>, v...@pacbell.net wrote:

> I recently discovered an infestation of minute (perhaps one mm in
> length, and the diameter of a human hair) white worm-like
> bugs crawling in the media and over the roots. Not quite worms -

[Sophie Gingras]

[snip]

> > I'd love some suggestions as to the proper pesticide to use and
> > the correct method of application.
> >
> > Please respond to bbr...@10fold.com -or- v...@pacbell.net
> > as I don't get to this news group too often.
> >
> > Many Thanks!!!
> > Bill
>

> Hi;
>
> Bill has requested that his question be answered via E-mail. But I'd
> like to request that if you can identify the pest and the solution, you
> post it here too! I'd very much like to know the answer because it sounds
> just like something I noticed on the exposed roots of my Brassia. My
> response was to remove the plant from it's pot, clean and disinfect the
> pot, rinse the roots under running water and re-pot in clean media. But
> should I have used some sort of pesticide too?
>
> Thanks
> Jennifer

Those pests are called fungus gnats. I got them on my catt., but also on
several other plants (non-orchid) in my appartment.

They are generally present in very humid media, i.e. when the plant is
way too small for its pot or when watering is done too often. But when
it is there, you can kill the plant by underwatering if you want, they
will still be in the media (darn). I know, I tried that.

I noticed that fungus gnats don't seem to harm some plants, but can kill
some others. About orchids, since these little pests seem to feed on the
roots, at an early stage, it is still ok, but the plants don't seem like
them very much after a while, according to my experience with my
cattleya.

I did just like you, Jennifer, repotted the orchid (in a bit coarser
media). But I also mixed pyrethrin with the media before repotting, to
prevent reapperance of gnats. It seems to have worked very well.
Pyrethrin is also "natural", so it goes away in a few days. Then I would
suggest you to check closely the media for the next few weeks, just in
case. When the infestation is caught in an early stage, there should be
no problem.

Hope this is helpful,
Sophie Gingras
ging...@intranet.ca
ging...@aecl.ca

[Gregory Hupf]

Billy wrote:
>
> I've got a phalaenopsis (my first) and its been doing quite
> well - two flowers and five new buds :-):-):-) It appears to
> be quite happy in my shady window, but...:-(
>

> I recently discovered an infestation of minute (perhaps one mm in
> length, and the diameter of a human hair) white worm-like
> bugs crawling in the media and over the roots. Not quite worms -
> they move quickly for their size so they must have legs. I think
> I even saw one jump. There's no bugs on the leaves or the flowers,
> on in the media and on the roots. At the moment my my phal doesn't
> appear to be suffering any ill effects from the infestation but
> I think it only because I've caught it in its early stages.
>

> I'd love some suggestions as to the proper pesticide to use and
> the correct method of application.
>
> Please respond to bbr...@10fold.com -or- v...@pacbell.net
> as I don't get to this news group too often.
>
> Many Thanks!!!
> Bill

Very small jumping and crawling bugs in the media sounds like thrips to
me. We just sent a little Isotox through our soil wiping the little
buggers out. Now we can't eat our orchid plants for a couple of years.

[James Aldridge]

>Pyrethrin is also "natural", so it goes away in a few days.

Neither "natural" nor "goes away in a few days" suggest that the chemical is
particularly safe. Some of the most toxic chemicals known to science are natural
(e.g., fungal aflatoxins and various toxins of fire algae).

And "goes away" can mean disperses or it can mean changes chemically into
something else. The first law of thermodynamics assures us that nothing ever
really goes away, and dispersal isn't very settling!

Also, the pyrethrins are a group of related chemicals, not a single molecular
type.

Let's treat all chemicals carefully, with full respect for their potential
hazards to people and to the environment, but let us also neither vilify
synthetic compounds nor deify natural ones.

Cheers,
Jim

James Aldridge - Fort Worth, Texas, USA
ja...@onramp.net or aldr...@tenet.edu
http://rampages.onramp.net/~jaldr

[Billy]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Sophie Gingras wrote:
>
> [snip]

>
> Those pests are called fungus gnats. I got them on my catt., but also on
> several other plants (non-orchid) in my appartment.
>
> They are generally present in very humid media, i.e. when the plant is
> way too small for its pot or when watering is done too often. But when
> it is there, you can kill the plant by underwatering if you want, they
> will still be in the media (darn). I know, I tried that.
>

> [snip,snip]

>
> Hope this is helpful,
> Sophie Gingras
> ging...@intranet.ca
> ging...@aecl.ca

I think Wayne Forrester (forr...@mendel.berkeley.edu) has correctly
ID'd my infestation - Springtails. (Jumpers for sure! Thanks a $MM
Wayne!!)

A search on AltaVista for "springtails" led me to the following URLs:

http://hammock.ifas.ufl.edu/tmp/springta.html
http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/springta.html

...which seemed to indicate that the pests(?) are: Linear Springtails;
fond of damp, acidic, decomposing matter; are probably not a cause for
concern unless the plants are quite young; might be controlled in an
necessarily moist environment by reducing acidity with crushed oyster
shells, etc.

FYI - My growing env:

75-90% humidity (SF,CA - Noe Valley, up on the hill (Noe Heights?:-),
in the clouds)
65 degrees (electric heat, but not much)
V.shady East window
6" pot, bark&moss
I water it with 2 ice-cubes, twice a week (maybe too much?? I'm new to
this),
I make the ice-cubes with tap water and Miracle Grow (7drops/Qt)
My phal had two blooms+two buds when I got it for Xmas.
It now has two blooms+five buds.
...so I guess I'm doing the right things (if I've just been lucky, plz
let me know!)
unless over-watering is causing/contributing to the Springtails.

I haven't seen Wayne's post yet so I've included it below for context.

===========================================================
Subject: Re: small white worms:-( what pesticide to use???
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 1997 08:04:50 -0800
From: forr...@mendel.Berkeley.EDU (Wayne Forrester)
Organization: UCBerkeley
To: v...@pacbell.net
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.orchids
References:
1

(A copy of this message has also been posted to the following
newsgroups:
rec.gardens.orchids)

Hi,

It's very difficult to ID pests without seeing them. What you have
could be one of at least a few different critters. Based on your
description of them, and the fact that you said you've even seen them
jump, I'ld guess that they might be a bug often referred to as
springtails. Springtails are small, white or silver looking bugs that
are
commonly found in damp places. They feed on decomposing organic matter
and
cause no damage to plants whatsoever, as far as I can tell. If they are
springtails, I would suggest doing nothing. You might want to get a
small
magnifying glass, and find a picture of springtails in a book to see if
this is what you have. Hope this helps.

Wayne Forrester
forr...@mendel.berkeley.edu
========================================================

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Springtails

Springtails are minute insects without wings in the Order Collembola. They
occur in large numbers in moist soil and are found in homes with high
humidity, organic debris, or mold. Homeowners sometimes discover these
insects in large numbers in swimming pools, potted plants, or in moist soil
and mulch. They feed on decaying, damp vegetation causing organic material
and other nutrients to return to the soil which are later used by plants.
Occasionally, springtails attack young seedling and may damage the roots and
stems.

Biology and Description

The Order Collembola has two suborders easily distinguished by their body
shape. One appears linear while the other appears globular. These suborders
are further divided into families which contain the separate species. Only
seven families include the 650 species in North America. Worldwide, 3600
species have been discovered.

[Image] Figure 1. A linear springtail

Springtails range in length from 0.25 to 6 millimeters, but are normally
about 1 millimeter long. Colors range from white to yellow, gray, or
blue-gray. Attached to the tip of the abdomen is a forked appendage
resembling a lever and called the furcula. At rest, a clasp, called the
tenaculum, holds the furcula to the abdomen. When disturbed, the clasp
releases the furcula, which strikes the ground, causing the insect to spring
into the air. They are capable of springing up to 100 mm, or about 4 inches,
into the air. The name "springtail" originated from this action.

[Image] Figure 2. A globular springtail

Springtails range throughout the Arctic, temperate and tropical regions.
Breeding can be year round. Time from egg to adult may take from five to 11
weeks. Springtails are ametabolous meaning they have no metamorphosis.
Adults are wingless, and the only difference between them and the immature
nymphs is body size. Both adults and nymphs live and feed in the same
habitat.

Problems

Springtails are pests due to their large numbers. They do not bite nor
transmit diseases. They can easily climb the sides of houses and are
attracted to lights.

Homeowners may first encounter springtails inside the home. The insects
invade buildings in search of moisture or dryness, in times of dry weather
or heavy rains. They may also breed indoors with high levels of humidity
that occur near leaks and cracks to the exterior. Because of their
attraction to lights, they may enter homes lured by light shining through
cracks under doors and windows.

Springtail populations have also been found floating in swimming pools.
Normally, they live in surrounding soil and mulch and accidently spring into
the pool while in search of food. Leaving the pool lights on at night may
also attract them to the pool.

Some species of springtails may damage plants by chewing on the roots and
stems of healthy seedlings. The plants attacked normally are found in overly
wet and acidic soil. The seedlings may appear wilted and, if too young, may
die. Damage occurs as minute, rounded pits on young roots.

Management

Sealing cracks and crevices reduces the humidity within homes and provides
an unsuitable environment for springtails. If moisture is still a problem, a
dehumidifier will absorb the excess moisture. Filled cracks will also block
out the light that attracts them.

If springtails enter swimming pools, they will drown because they cannot
tolerate chlorinated water for long. Since they live in surrounding soil,
preventing the soil from becoming overly moist and reducing the acidity by
liming controls the populations. Natural enemies, such as predaceous mites,
may also control springtails without the application of pesticides.

Another solution is to treat areas with insecticides or insecticidal soap.
Spraying the surface of the soil with most flying insect sprays will quickly
kill the small insects. If springtails are entering the home, a perimeter
band may be applied to prevent them reach indoors.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Parts of this material may be reproduced for educational use. Please credit
"University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences,"
accompanied by the published date.

[Image] Urban IPM

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[Image]

Springtail

Contact: Eric Day, Manager, Insect Identification Laboratory

August 1996

[Image]

Springtail

SIZE: Less than 1/5 inch (5mm)

COLOR: Pale brown to cream colored

DESCRIPTION: Springtails are very small (rarely more than 1/5 inch long),
pale brown to cream colored insects that seem to hop and disappear when
disturbed. The common name "springtail" has been applied to these insects
because of this habit of springing away. A hook-like structure on the bottom
side of the abdomen is snapped against the ground and this propels the
insect.

HABITAT: Springtails are commonly found in moist or damp places, usually in
contact with soil. Homeowners encounter them in damp basements and on the
surface of the soil of household plants. The moist, organic soil of house
plants provides them the proper environment to live and increase in numbers.
Plants that are over- watered during the fall and winter can support a large
population of springtails in the potting soil.

LIFE CYCLE: Populations are often high, up to 100,000 per cubic meter of
surface soil, or many millions per acre. Some can reproduce at temperatures
as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

TYPE OF DAMAGE: Springtails have chewing mouthparts, but they rarely, if
ever, damage house plants (roots or leaves). Frequently, plants begin to
decline and homeowners blame the springtails. But not so! Springtails rarely
cause the death of house plants-over- watering can, however.

CONTROL: Do nothing, but stop over-watering the plant! Let the soil dry
out-the springtails will leave or die.

INTERESTING FACTS: They may live in termite nests, in snow and even in
mushroom cellars.

[Image]

Visit Virginia Cooperative Extension

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[Sophie Gingras]

James Aldridge wrote:
>
> >Pyrethrin is also "natural", so it goes away in a few days.
>
> Neither "natural" nor "goes away in a few days" suggest that the chemical is
> particularly safe. Some of the most toxic chemicals known to science are natural
> (e.g., fungal aflatoxins and various toxins of fire algae).

I know that. The most toxic chemical for human is botulin, a toxin that
is formed by the botulinum. If I remember well, it is at least 10 times
more toxic than strychnine.

>
> And "goes away" can mean disperses or it can mean changes chemically into
> something else. The first law of thermodynamics assures us that nothing ever
> really goes away, and dispersal isn't very settling!

By that, I only meant that this "group of chemicals", like you said,
since it comes from chrysantemum, could more easily be attacked by
bacteria and decomposed to something less toxic. I've heard that it
could be decomposed in 24 hours, I don't know if it is true. Some
synthetic molecules, because of their structure, could be tougher to
break by bacteria.

>
> Let's treat all chemicals carefully, with full respect for their potential
> hazards to people and to the environment, but let us also neither vilify
> synthetic compounds nor deify natural ones.

I is true that I never like to use strong chemicals on my plants, should
they be "natural" or not. And when I see on the bottle that has
pyrethrin in it that we should never breathe the product, and it is
toxic to fish, well... except the fact, as said above, that the molecule
might be easier to break by bacteria, I don't see much difference.

Then I found on the Internet some home recipes made from dish liquid
soap, oil and water, and I tried that on my Paph. that was infested by
some black flies that seemed to like the soil very much. Believe me,
when
I had been able to get one with my solution, it died in seconds. As
efficient as the strongest chemical pesticide :-)

Sophie Gingras
ging...@aecl.ca