My 2 cents,
Sterling
change aol to mindspring in reply
I need to get out more - I thought Indigo Girls was a Ladies SGI group.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
SterlingF/X, Inc. http://sterhill.home.mindspring.com/index.html
I've grown stupice 4 times in the past. 3 of the 4 years it delivered as
advertised. It was early, about a week before sungold, and two weeks
before anything else. It was prolific, and tasty. I wouldn't say it was
among the best tasting, just best tasting of early varieties. My plants
kept going after everything else started coming in, so we wound up drying
a bunch. Worked out rather nicely. The one bad year was two years ago when
it was unusually hot up here in May and June. The yield was way done, and
I can't remember anything specific about the taste. I didn't grow it during
last year, so I don't know how it reacts to soggy conditions.
Jim G.
Maynard, MA Zone 5
I just started Stupice seeds a couple of days ago. I heard good reviews about
this plant.
/z.
Arzeena
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William Litchfield <billsg...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:t56ntja...@corp.supernews.com...
I was VERY disappointed in Oregon Spring, won't even bother with it again.
It was actually LATER than some of my other early varieties.
I grew Stupice last season but am going to give them another try as last
year wasn't a good barometer to judge by due to the climactic conditions we
had here in NH. They were prolific, but the fruits were smallish.
Craig
I grew Stupice tomatoes last year and wondered "where have you been all my
life?!" They were early, prolific, extremely blight resistant and withstood
some chilly spring and early fall temps without slowing down. Compared to
the other varieties I grew (Oregon Spring, "Fantastic", Sweet 100), it
outproduced about 5/1. Folks told me before I started growing Stupice that
"it wasn't the best tomato ever" and that "it had pretty good flavor for an
early variety". Here in the northern end of the Pacific Northwest, though,
we have a general belief that any tomato that can set and ripen fruit
OUTDOORS is a helluva find. Stupice is an outstanding little tomato, IMHO,
and I'll probably grow it almost exclusively from now on.
Brina
Zone 7-8
> I've grown other early maturing varieties like Oregon Spring, Stupice,
> Siletz, Kootenai (most were Territorial Seeds varieties) and found almost
> all of them bland. Stupice is definitely the best tasting early variety. The
> others tend to be very bland.
Thank you. You and King Pineapple anticipated my follow up to Bill's
question. The Hudson Valley is reputed to be good tomato land, but we've
found it rather challenging. Who carries Stupice. I haven't found it in
our catalogs yet.
--
Steven Cangemi
New York
USDA zone 5
Arzeena
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Steven Cangemi <can...@ulster.net> wrote in message
news:cangemi-ya0230800...@news.mybizz.net...
Yup, Stupice is widely available. Other sources include Tomato Growers Supply
(http://www.tomatogrowers.com) - decent web site and my favorite catalog, and
Totally Tomatoes (http://www.totallytomato.com/) - lousy site, but an okay
catalog.
-Jim G.
Maynard, MA Zone 5
>Arzeena
While I'm at it:
http://www.tomatofest.com
http://www.heirloomseeds.com
http://www.seedsavers.org
-jg
Rob Johnston
Johnny's Selected Seeds
Albion, Maine
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Are any of these VFN (yes, all of them ...) resistant?
(otherwise I'm back to cherry tomatoes).
Thanks,
Maren
I have grown a lot of the "early varieties". My favorites are Early Wonder,
Earlirouge, Dona & Taxi (yellow). My preference is based on flavor, as we
don't have much problem with tomato diseases in my area. I have found most
of the other tomatoes mention bland in my garden. I have not grown Matina.
Janice
in the Sierra
(zone 7)
"Maren Purves" <m.pu...@jach.hawaii.edu> wrote in message
news:3A551D...@jach.hawaii.edu...
> Are any of these VFN (yes, all of them ...) resistant?
> (otherwise I'm back to cherry tomatoes).
Just curious, do you get any "uniquely Hawaiian" diseases or pest problems
with your tomatoes? I never actually knew anybody who grew them when I lived
in Kailua.
Craig
I don't know, but I don't think so.
I've never managed to keep one alive through the September rains
(they rot), and I guess if I'd had one last November it would have
gotten washed away. At the moment I'm more concerned about lack of
rain (what you get when you're in the tropics, rainfall can be
extreme both ways). Being on old cane land upslope in Hilo we have
nematodes, and we get wilts. You basically have to keep them from
too much sun and from too much rain. Temperatures are ok ...
People do grow tomatoes in Hilo, but it has always been
farming/plantation country with people growing stuff in their back
yards.
Maren
(just lost another eggplant. Somehow I don't seem to be able to
keep them alive)
what did you have luck with last summer? my Stupice were
smallish too, but i thought they were supposed to be. my
tomatoes did really awful last year & having the baby in August
didn't help, as no one else ever harvests anything. (well,
except peas)
lee
You should try Burpee's "Heatwave" variety.
Craig
> what did you have luck with last summer? my Stupice were
> smallish too, but i thought they were supposed to be. my
> tomatoes did really awful last year & having the baby in August
> didn't help, as no one else ever harvests anything. (well,
> except peas)
> lee
I basically had good luck with most of my crops, but only due to lots of
hard (read "daily") work and extensive use of container gardening for the
tomatoes. By growing in containers I eliminated the possibility of
soil-borne disease; but I have reluctantly concluded that the site I have
used for my original in-ground garden needs to spend a year or two in cover
crops as it's too diseased.
BTW: in the future, plan to have any kids during non-garden season. LOL
Craig
Have you considered solarizing the site instead? You would still lose one
season, but not two and you'd be sure the nasties were gone.
> BTW: in the future, plan to have any kids during non-garden season. LOL
Or ever. <sigh> I've spent the past few seasons teaching my granddaughter
to garden. Uh, some years are better than others...
She's very good at pulling up carrots too soon just so she can see if
they're ready yet.
Loki
LOL!
/z.
> "King Pineapple" <saddl...@earthlink.net> wrote
> >
> > I basically had good luck with most of my crops, but only due to lots of
> > hard (read "daily") work and extensive use of container gardening for the
> > tomatoes. By growing in containers I eliminated the possibility of
> > soil-borne disease; but I have reluctantly concluded that the site I have
> > used for my original in-ground garden needs to spend a year or two in
> cover
> > crops as it's too diseased.
>
> Have you considered solarizing the site instead? You would still lose one
> season, but not two and you'd be sure the nasties were gone.
People I know who have tried solarizing have found it to be ineffective.
I'm guessing you need to be in a climate where walking across a blacktop
driveway with bare feet isn't a good idea in the afternoon :-) Things just
cool down too much at night to create the necessary heat.
>
> > BTW: in the future, plan to have any kids during non-garden season. LOL
>
> Or ever. <sigh> I've spent the past few seasons teaching my granddaughter
> to garden. Uh, some years are better than others...
>
> She's very good at pulling up carrots too soon just so she can see if
> they're ready yet.
>
My daughter will be two and a half before our spring frost free date. At
the end of last summer, she had gotten to the point where I could weed
while she played in the sandbox. Before then, I had to sit in the sandbox
with her and just give the weeds the evil eye. My evil eye apparently needs
more practice since it didn't bother them in the slightest.
--
Kay Cangemi
A chiel 's amang ye takin' notes - Burns
New York, USDA zone 5
http://www.ulster.net/~cangemi
> People I know who have tried solarizing have found it to be ineffective.
> I'm guessing you need to be in a climate where walking across a blacktop
> driveway with bare feet isn't a good idea in the afternoon :-) Things just
> cool down too much at night to create the necessary heat.
Ah, well it was worth asking. I do live in one of those climates where
walking across blacktop or concrete on a summer afternoon is not a good
idea.
> My daughter will be two and a half before our spring frost free date. At
> the end of last summer, she had gotten to the point where I could weed
> while she played in the sandbox. Before then, I had to sit in the sandbox
> with her and just give the weeds the evil eye. My evil eye apparently
needs
> more practice since it didn't bother them in the slightest.
By the time she's a teenager you should have the evil eye perfected - mostly
on her...
Loki
> Have you considered solarizing the site instead? You would still lose one
> season, but not two and you'd be sure the nasties were gone.
Don't think it gets hot enough here to do it (central New Hampshire).
If you have sunny days it takes about six weeks to solarize the soil. The
trick is to wet the soil before laying down the clear plastic. It is
important that the edges of the plastic are held tightly against the ground
(often by covering the edges of the plastic with dirt).
> If you have sunny days it takes about six weeks to solarize the soil. The
> trick is to wet the soil before laying down the clear plastic. It is
> important that the edges of the plastic are held tightly against the
ground
> (often by covering the edges of the plastic with dirt).
>
> Janice
> in the Sierra
> (zone 7)
Have you actually done this in your location? My problem is that I'm in zone
5 or 6 (right on the line) so don't get quite as warm as you. You must be in
the Calif. Sierra, correct?
The info I've read about solarizing says that you need a stretch of
something like 4 weeks straight where the temp gets above 80 degrees. Which
never happens in my location.
Craig
Stupice doesn't have any listing for resistance (at least in my catalogues).
Arzeena
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Maren Purves <m.pu...@jach.hawaii.edu> wrote in message
news:3A551D...@jach.hawaii.edu...
probably means that the Early Girls our neighbor gave me last
spring were gotten by the nematodes.
Seeds that don't have resistance listed usually arent resistant ...
(back to cherry tomatoes)
Aloha,
Maren
Terra Viva Organics wrote:
>
> Oregon Spring is listed as V
> Early Girl is V, F1, F2
> Siletz is V, F1
>
> Stupice doesn't have any listing for resistance (at least in my catalogues).
Have you ever considered using "beneficial nematodes" in the soil? These are
nematodes that go after the bad guys.
Oops, that's right, you live in Hawai'i. They're probably verboten to import
into the islands.
Have you tried the "Celebrity" tomato? That's resistant to everything under
the sun. There's a new "Bush Celebrity" strain out this season, with smaller
(and earlier?) fruits.
Craig
Well, my new great-granddaughter is only 3 months old but I plan on starting her
in the garden at 8-10 months just like I did with her Dad and her Grandmother.
Of course that's the children's garden we plant each year so they can learn to
do everything but run the tiller.
George
Loki, I, too, live in one of those climates and three years ago successfully
solarized a strip 3 feet by 75 feet down my west fence line. Did it during
July/August and, as recommended, used clear polyethylene sheeting weighted with
bricks and the edges sealed with dirt. No weeds have come up since except for
the St. Augustine runners that insist on going where the food is.
George, posting late as usual