How and what can I clean from inside the Cabinet?
Nacman
weeks ago about the fact I am a noob to collecting, and was looking
for it, it was my favorite game when I was a teen.
Well I have it now, and it is in pretty good shape (noob opinion). The
inside is DIRTY dusty. I am in the process of having a CPU board
shipped out to me, as I am pretty sure that will solve my inability
to save the settings.
I would like to dust the other boards on the side of the cabinet, I
use a soft electronics duster brush for my PC cleaning. There is one
board with what I would call a Big Yellow capacitor on it....not sure
if it is a big capacitor, but if it is, I don't want to get bit.
Suggestions??
The monitor is filthy dirty with caked on dust. The PCB in the Tray
of the monitor is so filled up with dust that the chips and electrical
components are barely visible.
Pardon my terminology, it will get better.... but the end of the tube
itself, where all the wound wirer can be seen, is also dusty as all.
I would like to dust it all away, but wanted to check here first. I
need to learn to properly ground or discharge the red wire going to
the flyback. I have read that it is best to do it at least twice.
What is the proper technique? Can i then dust to my hearts content?
The monitor appears to be a projecting a slightly larger image, but it
is steady, it doesn't appear to be "blooming" if that is a correct
term.
If I get some good instructions, I plan on going ahead and removing
everything and taking a wire brush to the wood and really cleaning her
up. Ultimately I want to do a full restore back to as close to mint
as I can get.
Thanks for reading this long post and to all yo respond with
suggestions.
-Nac
maxs...@sbcglobal.net
the monitor and discharge it (search the forum on how to do that
safely cause you can really hurt yourself) and then use 409 or a
similar spray cleaner and a hose (yes a garden hose!) to clean it
off. Let the monitor dry in the sun for at least a day before trying
to hook it up again. You can also clean the PCBs that way (the game
circuit boards). Make sure to make good notes of how the wiring
harness is hooked up so you can put it all back together right. You
can clean the inside of the cabinet with a vacuum or a damp sponge,
but don't get it too wet inside.
With regard to your settings not saving, have you replaced the
batteries on the CPU board? The Williams games used 3 AA batts to
hold scores and settings when the game was switched off. Many of
these games have acid damage on or around the battery holder that
interrupts the connection. The best fix is to remove the original
holder and replace it with a lithium battery. Kits for that cost $5.
or so from Bob Roberts and are easy to install even if you have very
little soldering experience. Feel free to email me directly if you
need more help. I've restored a number of Williams games. -Malcolm
Mike Fox
out. The use Mr. Clean and wash out the inside of the cab and then rinse.
Drain any standing water in the bottom of the cabinet and dry with a towel,
let dry outside for a few hours. You can wash the wire harness and
transformer brick in the same fashion. I usually just hose off the monitor
when it is out of the cabinet, then windex the front.
Mike Fox
Algonquin, IL
"Nacman" <nacm...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1188110647....@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
Pat D.
any water that is accumulating on the chassis or frame drips off instead
of pooling. I wear a dust mask and take a sander to the insides of the
cabinet to "clean" it up and vacuum it out and then hose it out.
I also use compressed air to blow any dust out of the nooks and crannies
before hosing it out to keep from making muddy water. I also recommend
taking the rubber suction cup thingy off the monitor and blow out the
water that may have collected in the little hole and at the end of the
suction cup thingy. I also blow down the chassis to get any hidden
water of of the chassis.
Just my technique.
Pat D.
maxs...@sbcglobal.net
cabinets are made of veneer plywood and the glue is NOT waterproof.
Also, Williams used a very thin veneer as the outer layer and getting
it wet can cause it to ripple and warp. If you must use water, use a
damp sponge on the inside and a very gentle hand on the outside. Most
Williams cabinets' paint is very brittle and will chip if you're too
aggressive with your sponge. The only time I recommend using water is
when lots of mold is present in the cab. Then it's time to break out
the bleach. -Malcolm
Nacman
What I plan to do, even though the cabinet art is not too bad is
actually sand it down. Probably use a little bondo
on the cabinet to get it back to no chiped corners. I need to replace
the back board, it has seemed to swell.
I think I will get the stencils for the artwork and then repaint it
myself.
The control panel, actually is very nice, it only has two noticeable
cig bubbles, not really a burn, but one has a slight discoloration
under the bubble. Can that be repaired.
I have looked online, not extensively, for how to repair it, or
replace it. Ideas??? What is the plastic material over the graphics
on the control panel??
After I finish it, would it be improper to put corner protector's so
it can be moved around without starting the chipping all over again?
I HAVE NO plans to place this machine anywhere though. It is gonna be
my cornerstone game in my gameroom.
Ideas?
-Nac
Alpha1
Congrats on your first game!
www.arcadehop.com has: http://www.arcadeshop.com/pics/sg-cpo.jpg
I would not put the corner protectors on, I would put some decent leg
levellers on underneath and unscrew them more than usual so the game is
sitting off the ground about an inch.
Oliver
todd...@yahoo.com
part of the cabinet and replace it with new wood. Lay the game on its
side an use a circular saw or router to cut through the side sheet of
plywood. Remove, replace and bondo the gap. Much better than having
your corner break off again later.
Pat D.
had an issue yet, but it is 100 degrees out here and full sun. The
cabinet dries out pretty darn quickly. For those of you "unfortunate"
enough to not live where it gets so toasty, a damp sponge/rag is
probably the way to go. Good point.
Pat D.
Brien King
that with my Zoo Keeper and it looks awesome. Get Unscented if possible
or do in a well ventalated area.
I have done the hosing out, but only with Plywood games. If it has particle
board in it, don't do it.
You can see the hosing down here: (Near the bottom)
http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=1&CBT=6
Games that are really bad, I'll hit with Bleach, then Pine Sol (Pine Sol
smells better then bleach :). I've even gone as far as sanding down the
inside of the game if the wood felt "Furry".
so for me:
Dusty Games: Pledge
Dirty Games that are not particle board: Hose out, remove all water (wet
& dry vac, then leave in heat)
Dirty Games that are particle board: Sponge and Hot water
Mold and Mildue: Bleach, Pine Sol, and sometimes sanding.
I'll probably start using Pledge even more as it helps cut down on the dust
too.
Brien King
spamm...@arcaderestoration.com
http://www.arcaderestoration.com
Nacman
wrote:
> I actually use Pledge on the inside of games that aren't too bad. I did
> that with my Zoo Keeper and it looks awesome. Get Unscented if possible
> or do in a well ventalated area.
>
> I have done the hosing out, but only with Plywood games. If it has particle
> board in it, don't do it.
>
>
> Games that are really bad, I'll hit with Bleach, then Pine Sol (Pine Sol
> smells better then bleach :). I've even gone as far as sanding down the
> inside of the game if the wood felt "Furry".
>
> so for me:
>
> Dusty Games: Pledge
> Dirty Games that are not particle board: Hose out, remove all water (wet
> & dry vac, then leave in heat)
> Dirty Games that are particle board: Sponge and Hot water
> Mold and Mildue: Bleach, Pine Sol, and sometimes sanding.
>
> I'll probably start using Pledge even more as it helps cut down on the dust
> too.
>
> Brien King
Thanks for all the advice. I think the Bondo'ing of the corners is
gonna be rethinked. :)
I have a question about the power cord now. I was removing the
transformer on the bottom to start cleaning.
While inspecting all the connections and solder joints I was able to
determine the ground lead from the three prong plug was in fact
attached and wired to what I believe is the grounding braid that run
throughout the cabinet. The Prong however had the ground connector
broke off. Based on that fact, is that an issue for these machines?
In particular I ask this, because when I discharge the anode, and clip
it
to the wire braid on the monitor, where wil this discharge go to if
the machine is not grounded in it particular state now?
This should be fixed prior correct?
More! More questions to come.
-Nac
ps Remember I am not an electronics genious actually not even a good
amateur hobbyist yet, so if anything is real technical
I will need the dumbed down version somewhat. Thanks for ALL the help
and suggestions. Nice group I stumbled on.
Brien King
Replacing Power Cords is easy. The Ground plug is for safety, but they run
all the time without them. You can get replacement cords from Bob Roberts
(http://www.therealbobroberts.net) and I have a tutorial on how to replace
them here:
http://www.arcaderestoration.com/index.asp?OPT=3&DATA=2&CBT=3
Technically, I have no clue where the 19KV goes when you discharge a monitor,
but I've discharged them when they've been completely disconnected and haven't
had any issues. Someone who knows a lot more about the science of electricity
can probably answer that question way better then me :-)
If you're starting out collecting, you might want to consider buying items
in bunches. Don't just buy one cord, buy 5. Trust me, you'll need them
sooner or later! If this is your first game, you need at least 4 more to
go with it.
N> Thanks for all the advice. I think the Bondo'ing of the corners is
N> gonna be rethinked. :)
N>
N> I have a question about the power cord now. I was removing the
N> transformer on the bottom to start cleaning.
N> While inspecting all the connections and solder joints I was able to
N> determine the ground lead from the three prong plug was in fact
N> attached and wired to what I believe is the grounding braid that run
N> throughout the cabinet. The Prong however had the ground connector
N> broke off. Based on that fact, is that an issue for these machines?
N> In particular I ask this, because when I discharge the anode, and
N> clip
N> it
N> to the wire braid on the monitor, where wil this discharge go to if
N> the machine is not grounded in it particular state now?
N> This should be fixed prior correct?
N>
N> More! More questions to come.
N>
N> -Nac
N>
N> ps Remember I am not an electronics genious actually not even a good
N> amateur hobbyist yet, so if anything is real technical
N> I will need the dumbed down version somewhat. Thanks for ALL the
N> help
N> and suggestions. Nice group I stumbled on.
Nacman
it, darn it was DIRTY.
I have also removed the PCB's and PS and washed them as well. I have
touched up all the solder joints where the (molex ?) connectors
connect
to...I think I am gonna order the PS Kit from Bob Roberts.
Pics to follow
http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=machineoa4.jpg
The whole machine
http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leftside1bz6.jpg
Viewed from the left side
http://img212.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rightsidery4.jpg
Viewed from the right side
http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=monitorpcbol1.jpg
Monitor
http://img509.imageshack.us/my.php?image=monitorii0.jpg
Monitor 1
http://img211.imageshack.us/my.php?image=upclosemb2.jpg
Monitor neck close up
http://img213.imageshack.us/my.php?image=powersupplyhv1.jpg
Power Supply
http://img209.imageshack.us/my.php?image=backpanelkb7.jpg
Back Panel
http://img251.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rhcpoqo9.jpg
Right Hand CPO
http://img214.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lhcpoaq4.jpg
Left Hand CPO
What do you guys think?
sorry for the double post, i meant it here all along.
-Nac
Pat D.
tolerances. I guess we ought to run a filthiest machine contest and
have people submit photos.
Pat D.
Nacman
dirty. My wife MADE me vac out the cabinet before it was allowed in
the rec room. I was truly amazed how black-brown the water was when I
finally cleaned the monitor and the boards. I am sure there has been
ALOT worse off machines. I was so ready to start working on cleaing
out the insides today, but reality stepped in when my outside A/C
compressor fan broke. Spent half the day on finding and fixing it.
But it is cool again.
-Nac