Dead Atari Food Fight - Help!
Cliffy
giving me LED codes and no screen at all.
According to the fellow I got it from it worked fine until the monitor
developed a roll, no biggie but he was tired of it so I acquired it. We
tried to fire it up but nada. No sounds, just a couple flickers from the
start button led's. So I took her home, pulled the back off and pulled
the game board out of its cage. Upon doing that I noticed corrosion both
in the bottom of the cage and on the board along the bottom where the
rams are, all the way up to about the C line.
I carefully pulled the rams and cleaned the legs with a fiberglass brush
and set them aside. I cleaned the sockets as best I could and then
checked the traces to the sockets, all good. Popped the ram back in and
installed the board and now I don't even get a start button led to
light! Only the led on the board lights and it stays locked on from
power up.
I checked the ARII board and voltages look ok to me but not sure how
dead on the need to be. Example, 10.3 is reading about 12 while 5 is on
at 5.0.
Where do I start? Is it a lost cause? Are there any Atari board repair
guys out there still? Any help, tips and pointers appreciated!
--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com
Brien King
The 12V might be ok if it's unregulated. If it's regulated and is supposed
to be 10.3, then you might have a problem.
I would start by checking the voltages to different places on the board and
make sure you are getting good readings. Since you pulled the RAMS, I would
double check them as well. Make sure a leg didn't get bent out of the socket
or a leg didn't fall off.
Since you have corrosion, you'll want to check other socketed chips as well.
If you coin up the game, does it make any sounds or does the Start button
Light at that point?
You should also be able to find the documentation to Food Fight here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Arcade_Atari_Kee/Food_Fight/
Brien King
spamm...@arcaderestoration.com
http://www.arcaderestoration.com
C> Picked up an otherwise nice Food Fight but it's not booting or even
C> giving me LED codes and no screen at all.
C>
C> According to the fellow I got it from it worked fine until the
C> monitor developed a roll, no biggie but he was tired of it so I
C> acquired it. We tried to fire it up but nada. No sounds, just a
C> couple flickers from the start button led's. So I took her home,
C> pulled the back off and pulled the game board out of its cage. Upon
C> doing that I noticed corrosion both in the bottom of the cage and on
C> the board along the bottom where the rams are, all the way up to
C> about the C line.
C>
C> I carefully pulled the rams and cleaned the legs with a fiberglass
C> brush and set them aside. I cleaned the sockets as best I could and
C> then checked the traces to the sockets, all good. Popped the ram back
C> in and installed the board and now I don't even get a start button
C> led to light! Only the led on the board lights and it stays locked on
C> from power up.
C>
C> I checked the ARII board and voltages look ok to me but not sure how
C> dead on the need to be. Example, 10.3 is reading about 12 while 5 is
C> on at 5.0.
C>
C> Where do I start? Is it a lost cause? Are there any Atari board
C> repair guys out there still? Any help, tips and pointers appreciated!
C>
Cliffy
removed all the corrosion from both sides of the board and soldered in
new sipp sockets. It worked! It's playing blind but by golly I'm
surprised how tough those AMD srams are.
Now I'm trying to get some life out of the monitor and it's a weird one.
It's a Wells Gardner 19k4921. Never saw one of these EVER! The board
looks just like any 4900 series but there is a separate small PC board
mounted to the side of the frame with it's own rgb inputs and a BNC
connector? What the??? Nothing is plugged into it but there is a
separate rgbhvs connector hanging there that's been tapped into various
points on the main PCB. Anyway, not worried about that too much. It's
obviously for some other kind of input. Right now I'm worried that's I'm
getting no B+ at R503 and nothing at the opposite end of R503 either.
Randy's flow chart says to check R601 but I'll be damned if I can even
find that resistor anywhere on the board. In fact there are NO R6xx
resistors anywhere! Lots of R2xx, 3xx and 7xx resistors but no 6xx that
I can see!
Thanks for the encouragement, Brien, and if you or anyone has any ideas
on this monitor do let us all know here. Thanks again!
--
someotherguy
of a laser game?
Richard
Cliffy
monitors as well as the ol' token ring networks. They were used
for.... (drum roll) CCTV in the old days :) I could snap a pic when I
get off work today for all to see.
Cliffy
A passion for pinball!
www.passionforpinball.com
On Aug 27, 10:15 am, someotherguy
<someotherguy@SPAM_SUCKSsomeotherplace.com> wrote:
> HeyCliffy, you sure that's a BNC, not an RCA? Like maybe that monitor came out
> >> spammeh...@arcaderestoration.com
> >>http://www.arcaderestoration.com
>
> >> C> Picked up an otherwise nice Food Fight but it's not booting or even
> >> C> giving me LED codes and no screen at all.
> >> C> C> According to the fellow I got it from it worked fine until the
> >> C> monitor developed a roll, no biggie but he was tired of it so I
> >> C> acquired it. We tried to fire it up but nada. No sounds, just a
> >> C> couple flickers from the start button led's. So I took her home,
> >> C> pulled the back off and pulled the game board out of its cage. Upon
> >> C> doing that I noticed corrosion both in the bottom of the cage and on
> >> C> the board along the bottom where the rams are, all the way up to
> >> C> about the C line.
> >> C> C> I carefully pulled the rams and cleaned the legs with a fiberglass
> >> C> brush and set them aside. I cleaned the sockets as best I could and
> >> C> then checked the traces to the sockets, all good. Popped the ram back
> >> C> in and installed the board and now I don't even get a start button
> >> C> led to light! Only the led on the board lights and it stays locked on
> >> C> from power up.
> >> C> C> I checked the ARII board and voltages look ok to me but not sure how
> >> C> dead on the need to be. Example, 10.3 is reading about 12 while 5 is
> >> C> on at 5.0.
> >> C> C> Where do I start? Is it a lost cause? Are there any Atari board
> >> C> repair guys out there still? Any help, tips and pointers appreciated!
> >> C>- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Cliffy
anything like it? I haven't!
http://www.passionforpinball.com/foodfight/wg19k4921-1.JPG
http://www.passionforpinball.com/foodfight/wg19k4921-2.JPG
I also 'found' R601... and marked it :) It's good so Randy's flow chart
missed on this one. My loss of voltage was a bad R506, 15 ohm 5 watt
resistor that was reading 1.5 megaohms! Replaced that and did a cap kit
and STILL no screen! Check B+ voltage and it's at 145 (supposed to be
130vdc) so now I've ordered the regulator ST381 at IC501. Hopefully this
is all that's left :)
--
Cliffy - CARGPB2
A passion for pinball!
http://www.passionforpinball.com
Scott Caldwell
used in a laserdisc game, since that is an NTSC to RGB converter
board and it matches what WG used. You won't need it for your
current game, so don't both trying to. The BNC connector is where
the video from the laserdisc player came in. If you want to donate
it to someone else trying to restore a laserdisc game, they would
appreciate it. :>
Scott C.
Cliffy
over 10 years. If anyone reads this and needs it, please email me. All I
ask is that you truly need it and won't hoard it or put it on ebay.
Stephen Beall and Hans O. have first dibs since they have given me stuff
for free in the past. I'll even pay shipping in the US. If I don't get a
response from this thread I'll put it up as a Free Friday. Thanks for
the idea and the info Scott! And, ummm, if you need it, Scott, lemme know :)
--
Stephen Beall
> Consider it donated! Always happy to help the group that's helped me for
> over 10 years. If anyone reads this and needs it, please email me. All I
> ask is that you truly need it and won't hoard it or put it on ebay.
>
> Stephen Beall and Hans O. have first dibs since they have given me stuff
> for free in the past. I'll even pay shipping in the US. If I don't get a
> response from this thread I'll put it up as a Free Friday. Thanks for
> the idea and the info Scott! And, ummm, if you need it, Scott, lemme
> know :)
>
Thanks for the offer but I have no need for it since LGSA. :-)
Please donate to a laser guy in need.
-S
Pat D.
> Thanks for the offer but I have no need for it since LGSA. :-)
That's funny! Took a few secs.
Pat D.
Scott Caldwell
together. I'll e-mail you off the group to make arrangements.
Thanks for the free Wednesday/Thursday! :>
Scott C.
Cliffy wrote:
> Consider it donated! Always happy to help the group that's helped me for
> over 10 years. If anyone reads this and needs it, please email me. All I
> ask is that you truly need it and won't hoard it or put it on ebay.
>
> Stephen Beall and Hans O. have first dibs since they have given me stuff
> for free in the past. I'll even pay shipping in the US. If I don't get a
> response from this thread I'll put it up as a Free Friday. Thanks for
> the idea and the info Scott! And, ummm, if you need it, Scott, lemme
> know :)
>
> Scott Caldwell wrote:
>> Well, well, well. You seem to have a monitor that was originally
>> used in a laserdisc game, since that is an NTSC to RGB converter
>> board and it matches what WG used. You won't need it for your
>> current game, so don't bother trying to. The BNC connector is where
gamefixer
> Thanks for the offer but I have no need for it since LGSA. :-)
>
> Please donate to a laser guy in need.
>
> -S
Laser Games Suck Ass???
Thats all I get out of it.
Matt
gamefixer
> Richard have a look here at a couple pics I took of it. Ever see
>
> I also 'found' R601... and marked it :) It's good so Randy's flow chart
> missed on this one. My loss of voltage was a bad R506, 15 ohm 5 watt
> resistor that was reading 1.5 megaohms! Replaced that and did a cap kit
> and STILL no screen! Check B+ voltage and it's at 145 (supposed to be
> 130vdc) so now I've ordered the regulator ST381 at IC501. Hopefully this
> is all that's left :)
>
> --
> Cliffy - CARGPB2
> >>>http://www.arcaderestoration.com
>
> >>> C> Picked up an otherwise nice Food Fight but it's not booting or even
> >>> C> giving me LED codes and no screen at all.
> >>> C> C> According to the fellow I got it from it worked fine until the
> >>> C> monitor developed a roll, no biggie but he was tired of it so I
> >>> C> acquired it. We tried to fire it up but nada. No sounds, just a
> >>> C> couple flickers from the start button led's. So I took her home,
> >>> C> pulled the back off and pulled the game board out of its cage. Upon
> >>> C> doing that I noticed corrosion both in the bottom of the cage and on
> >>> C> the board along the bottom where the rams are, all the way up to
> >>> C> about the C line.
> >>> C> C> I carefully pulled the rams and cleaned the legs with a fiberglass
> >>> C> brush and set them aside. I cleaned the sockets as best I could and
> >>> C> then checked the traces to the sockets, all good. Popped the ram back
> >>> C> in and installed the board and now I don't even get a start button
> >>> C> led to light! Only the led on the board lights and it stays locked on
> >>> C> from power up.
> >>> C> C> I checked the ARII board and voltages look ok to me but not sure how
> >>> C> dead on the need to be. Example, 10.3 is reading about 12 while 5 is
> >>> C> on at 5.0.
> >>> C> C> Where do I start? Is it a lost cause? Are there any Atari board
> >>> C> repair guys out there still? Any help, tips and pointers appreciated!
>
> - Show quoted text -
There are jumpers that run across the back of the board that develop
cold solder all the time. One of them is under one of the white
plastic holders so its the one that's usually screwed up.
I've never had to fix the power supply section of a 4900. Its a good
solid circuit.
Matt
Stephen Beall
Thats my famous tag line in DLP.
-S
Cliffy
Cliffy wrote:
> Consider it donated! Always happy to help the group that's helped me for
> over 10 years. If anyone reads this and needs it, please email me. All I
> ask is that you truly need it and won't hoard it or put it on ebay.
>>
--
Cliffy
gamefixer wrote:
> On Aug 29, 6:49 pm, Cliffy <Cli...@Team-EM.com> wrote:
>>
>> I also 'found' R601... and marked it :) It's good so Randy's flow chart
>> missed on this one. My loss of voltage was a bad R506, 15 ohm 5 watt
>> resistor that was reading 1.5 megaohms! Replaced that and did a cap kit
>> and STILL no screen! Check B+ voltage and it's at 145 (supposed to be
>> 130vdc) so now I've ordered the regulator ST381 at IC501. Hopefully this
>> is all that's left :)
>>
>
> There are jumpers that run across the back of the board that develop
> cold solder all the time. One of them is under one of the white
> plastic holders so its the one that's usually screwed up.
>
> I've never had to fix the power supply section of a 4900. Its a good
> solid circuit.
>
> Matt
>
Matt this board is actually pretty tight. I did do a physical and eye
loupe exam on it but just for giggles I'll reflow those when I pull it
to replace the regulator. I just rebuilt a G07-CB0 that had a TON of
cracked solder joints. I wiggled every component I could and found lots
of loose parts. So far, not the case on this wg4900. I think you're
right, basically a very sound board. Thanks for the tips!