Exidy Crossbow/Cheyenne problem. Hope someone can help!
cmj...@yahoo.com
expertise.
A brief history: Bought this game as Combat. Everything was working
except for a sound issue. A few weeks later the monitor blew and I had
it replaced. Had to reverse the yokes to get the image to display
properly. Sent several PCB's & gun opticalsl to Elektronforge to be
repaired. Recently took it over to a friend's house to see if we could
get it going.
I'm at the point where I can play the game with a few caveats:
Sound: Still have no sound after replacing the speakers (6x9), speaker
wiring, and connector to the PCB. A friend who looked at it insists
it's either the sound board (tested working at Elektronforge and audio
displays OK upon startup) or the order of the wires in the connector
which goes to the PCB. The wiring diagram in the crossbow manual says
pins 1,9,10. A replacement cable I received actually had the wiring
order 2,9,10. Doing the order based on what the manual says produces a
griding sound or a consistent high pitch notice coming out of the
speakers. Either way, no sound. Can anyone tell me the correct pin
configuration and the purpose of each wire? (ie:ground)
Gun: While we were able to successfully setup the gun sight alignment,
the optical alignment was a bit more tricky. For whatever reason, I
could never get it looking like the manual suggests (a square in the
center of the screen). Some adjustment of the potentiometer, and all
seemed good. These steps might have been done in reverse order, I'm not
quite sure. The bursts did register and was able to play for the first
time in almost 3 years. However, once the machine was turned off and
replugged in, the gun settings were lost. It's quite annoying having to
reconfigure everything again. I can't believe that this would be
normal. My friend suggests it was the removal of the plastic in front
of the gun that caused the settings to be lost, which I don't believe.
PCB: 2 Crossbow's work. I'm unable to get the optical alignment to work
on any of the Cheyenne PCB's. My friend stated that the reason the
Cheyenne boards can't optically align properly is because of the new
monitor. I've only had these issues since I've had the monitor
replaced, so maybe he's onto something. But that wouldn't explain why
the Crossbow's can be aligned, but the Cheyenne's won't.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Alex Yeckley
> repaired.
IIRC, we actually rebuilt the gun components. New PIN photodiodes
(I was surprised you'd found a source), trimpots, op-amp, and capacitors.
>Either way, no sound
It's been a while, so I don't recall the details - but did you test your power
supply to make sure that all of the voltages were being supplied correctly?
If the +15V or -15V supply is missing then it might have the symptoms you described.
> My friend suggests it was the removal of the plastic in front
> of the gun that caused the settings to be lost, which I don't believe.
What plastic? You mean the lense? Or the backglass? (sorry, been sick for
a week and can't think of the proper names for things at the moment).
Changing just about anything (even the monitor brightness) has screwed up
the adjustment in my past experience. However, once it's adjusted you shouldn't
have to re-adjust it again unless something has changed.
The System 440 is definitely one of those "they don't make them that way
any more, thank goodness" sort of designs.
Alex
----
ayec...@elektronforge.com
www.elektronforge.com
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Christopher Bogart
your power
> supply to make sure that all of the voltages were being supplied correctly?
> If the +15V or -15V supply is missing then it might have the symptoms you described.
Where on the power supply would I test for this?
http://home.comcast.net/~cmjb13/ps.jpg
I was looking at the wiring diagram and can't figure out exactly where
to test.
This is the audio cable:
http://home.comcast.net/~cmjb13/cable.jpg
It's in pins 1,9,10, but was shipped 2,9,10. I'm not sure which is correct.
>
> What plastic? You mean the lense? Or the backglass? (sorry, been sick for
> a week and can't think of the proper names for things at the moment).
> Changing just about anything (even the monitor brightness) has screwed up
> the adjustment in my past experience. However, once it's adjusted you shouldn't
> have to re-adjust it again unless something has changed.
The backglass. I'll have to keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip.
Don NJ
sound, it looks like pins 1 and 2 are your +L and +R and 10 is ground.
Don
NJ
Christopher Bogart
http://home.comcast.net/~cmjb13/cable.jpg
I wasn't sure which way I should be looking at the plug.
Don NJ wrote:
> I was just looking at pinouts that I have in a text file and for the
> sound, it looks like pins 1 and 2 are your +L and +R and 10 is ground.
>
> Don
> NJ
--
Alex Yeckley
I don't have a board here to look at, so I can't tell. Keep in mind that the numbering system on the connector you are holding may
not match Exidy's numbering system. The real pin 1 is identified on the silkscreening of the PCB.
<pause>
I just double-checked the cabinet wiring diagram. On this connector (P8) pin 1 is common to both speakers (ground) and was
originally a green wire, pin 9 drives one speaker (and was originally a brown wire) and pin 10 (originally a brown & white wire)
drives the other speaker. That seems to contradict what DON NJ posted.
<digs deeper into the schematics>
Looking at sheet 4 of the sound board schematic, it also shows pin 1 (and 2) being ground, which is consistent with the wiring
diagram I have. I'm not sure where Don's file came from. Whenever I find typos on schematics I correct them, so I'm pretty
confident that my info is accurate.
The best thing to do to at this point (regardless of connector numbering or silkscreening) might be to break out an ohmmeter and
check to see which pin (far left, or far right) connects to ground. I don't think you can tell visually because it's hidden under
the body of the header. Whichever pin has less resistance to ground should be the one that the common speaker wire connects to.
Once you are confident in that, then you'll know with certainty which way the connector should be oriented, and where pin 9 and pin
10 are. Maybe try connecting only one speaker at a time - might make it easier to diagnose.
NOTE TO ALL: be very leery when interpreting the System 440 sound board schematic. They populated the board differently for
different games, and it's not identified on the generic schematic (or anywhere else, AFAIK).
Hope that helps...
Alex
----
ayec...@elektronforge.com
www.elektronforge.com
Alex Yeckley
>> supply to make sure that all of the voltages were being supplied correctly?
>> If the +15V or -15V supply is missing then it might have the symptoms you described.
> Where on the power supply would I test for this?
> http://home.comcast.net/~cmjb13/ps.jpg
> I was looking at the wiring diagram and can't figure out exactly where to test.
Incidentally, I should have said +12V and -12V yesterday, not 15. Don't measure the voltage at the power supply - measure it at the
sound board to make sure the wiring harness isn't the issue. On the big power connector, pin 10 is ground. Pin 3 will be +12V, and
pin 8 will be -12V. Ideally you should test the voltages on the components of the board, but you have to be more careful there not
to accidentally short something out. If you can locate one of the 8-pin ICs labeled LM741, then on that part pin 4 is -12V and pin
7 is +12V. Pin 3 would be ground, but there are easier places to pick up a ground connection on the board.
Alex
----
ayec...@elektronforge.com
www.elektronforge.com
kevinp...@gmail.com
The sound pinout Don gave makes sense if you read the pin numbering
backwards/reversed.
It's "essentially" the same pinout you gave Alex, just numbered
backwards.
1=10
10=1
Just a note.....