Vectrex display died - sound still ok
Chris McKay
strange thing was, the sound kept going, and I was able to reset the machine
and hear the game boot up, which would indicate that only the display itself
was not working (ie, everything else was fine).
Has this happened to anyone else before? And what steps did you take to fix
the situation? I sure as hell hope the tube isnt dead because it would be
impossible to replace (luckily this was on my "spare" Vectrex, but I would
still want to repair it, if you know what I mean).
There was no flash or any other weirdness before it died, it just suddenly
went blank in the middle of a game ("Patriots" if it makes any difference).
Thanks in advance for any advice you guys can offer.
MC.
solde...@my-deja.com
>>I was playing my Vectrex today when suddenly the display died on me.
The strange thing was, the sound kept going, and I was able to reset
the machine and hear the game boot up, which would indicate that only
the display itself was not working (ie, everything else was fine).<<
Chris:
Is there a dot in the center of the screen? If you turn the brightness
knob either way is the dot present?
Rob Mitchell
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
The Maverick
>
> Is there a dot in the center of the screen? If you turn the brightness
> knob either way is the dot present?
And more importantly, if there is a dot, DON'T leave the brightness
turned way up or you could cause screen burn...
the Mav
--
"Never give up -- never surrender!" Commander Peter Quincy Taggart
solde...@my-deja.com
high voltage section powering the picture tube is working. Your point
is mute.
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
chris...@my-deja.com
solde...@my-deja.com wrote:
> Umm Mav The reason I asked about the
brightness is to learn if the
> high voltage section powering the picture tube
is working. Your point
> is mute.
>
I don't know if this would help, but when I fired
up the unit in a dark room, I could see a
brief "glow" around the edges of the screen just
after turning it on. The screen still remained
dark, however, even though the machine booted up
fine (thus enabling me to have a game of "Blind
Minestorm" - I don't reccomend it).
Does this mean the tube has died, or would it be
(hopefully) something simple and replaceable like
a diode or resistor or something?
MC
(Chris McKay)
solde...@my-deja.com
>> .. when I fired up the unit in a dark room, I could see a
brief "glow" around the edges of the screen just after turning it on.<<
I bet the high voltage section of the power board is out ... cause
unknown until investigated.
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
chris...@my-deja.com
solde...@my-deja.com wrote:
> I bet the high voltage section of the power board is out ... cause
> unknown until investigated.
Ok, just say it is the high voltage section. What do I look for to
confirm this and how do I go about repairing it (assuming it can be
repaired)? Is the repair of this problem similar to the "white dot"
problem as discussed in the Vectrex FAQ?
Could such a failure be caused by frequently turning the machine on and
off? I just recently got a Multicart (Sean Kelly, v 2.0) and have been
trying a lot of games, and as you know, if you want to "get out" of a
game, you need to power-cycle the machine.
MC.
The Maverick
>
> Umm Mav The reason I asked about the brightness is to learn if the
> high voltage section powering the picture tube is working. Your point
> is mute.
Unless you know someone who is handing out free replacement Vectrex
picture tubes, the point is anything but moot...
Chris McKay
of games). I opened up the unit, and discharged the tube (using the "2
screwdrivers method"). Just to be sure the charge wasnt "left over" from
when it was working, I turned the unit on again, let it boot up, and then
powered it down, and discharged the tube again (and got a nice audible and
visible blue spark).
This would mean that some sort of voltage is getting to the tube, right?
I also looked for visible signs of burnt out components, but couldnt find
any. Also hd a quick look for dry joints and loose wires, etc, but couldn't
find any either. Might have to take to it with a multimeter... :( I also
don't know if this would have anything to do with it, but the display seemed
just slightly blurry before it blanked out. Not a great deal, but enough to
be noticable.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks,
MC.
Chris
board on the back of the CRT has caps, try replacing them.
Chris
solde...@my-deja.com
>>Unless you know someone who is handing out free replacement Vectrex
picture tubes, the point is anything but moot...<<
Unless you have any specific information that can help the original
author of this thread to fix his Vectrex, your input is poop! :)
Your warning is as bland as saying: If you cross two wires together,
you could hurt yourself!
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
solde...@my-deja.com
>>This would mean that some sort of voltage is getting to the tube,
right?<<
Yes! I think the suggestion that the fault could be a bad capacitor is
a good one. You should download the Vectrex Service and Repair Manual
as well as the Troubleshooting Guide from Brett's Vectrex Preserve
website ... www.playvectrex.com
Where do you live? If near Atlanta, I would say "Come on over!"
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
Richard Hutchinson
idea to put together a 'cap kit' consisting of all the electrolytic
capacitors on the power board.
Richard H.
Jeff F.
> idea to put together a 'cap kit' consisting of all the electrolytic
> capacitors on the power board.
I thought Zanen used to sell these? I just checked their website and a
Vectrex kit is definitely not listed. Does anyone else remember seeing it
listed there? Or am I just going insane? :o)
-Jeff
--
PhillyClassic - the East Coast Classic Gamer's Event
http://www.phillyclassic.com/
Vidiot's Video Arcade:
http://vidiot.freeservers.com/
Entex Adventure Vision Site:
http://www.adventurevision.com/
--
"Richard Hutchinson" <r...@dial.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:8upi90$8t4$1...@lure.pipex.net...
Tek
> I did some more tests when I got home (I hate it when work gets in the way
> of games). I opened up the unit, and discharged the tube (using the "2
> screwdrivers method"). Just to be sure the charge wasnt "left over" from
> when it was working, I turned the unit on again, let it boot up, and then
> powered it down, and discharged the tube again (and got a nice audible and
> visible blue spark).
>
This also means that there is probably nothing wrong with your tube and HV
supply. Check also for heater glow in the neck.
When the game logic fails, a circuit called a 'spot killer' activates because of
the missing deflection signals and surpresses the beam. If there was no such
device built in, the phospors in the center of the tube would burn out right
away leaving you an (unrepairable) black hole in the middle of the screen. Scary
sight, that is.
the next thing you should check is if there is any deflection signals coming out
of the logic board. There is a connector on the left side of the back of the
logic board. From there, three coaxial cables go to the power
supply/HV/deflection board at the left.
On ALL three cores of these coaxial cables, you should see a voltage swinging.
Use a scope to verify. If there is none, the game logic is dead (suspect the
MC1408 DA convertor or the 6522) These are socketed, so replacing them is fairly
easy (and cheap). You could also check if there is any data going to the DAC,
by checking activity on it's logic inputs: pin 5 - 12. they are not ALL pulsing
(use a scope or logic probe) the DAC is probably okay and the 6522 is shot.
Hope this helps a bit - Succes on you reapir.s
Tek
that the problem lies within these are very slim...
The Maverick
>
> >>Unless you know someone who is handing out free replacement Vectrex
> picture tubes, the point is anything but moot...<<
>
> author of this thread to fix his Vectrex, your input is poop! :)
I had specific information that could prevent him from screwing up his
machine based on his advice... Sorry that I'm frustrating your mission
to go forth and cluelessly blow up the masses.
The Maverick
"And I'll burn in your screen for you!"
Keep up the good work, Garth...
solde...@my-deja.com
>>I thought Zanen used to sell these?<<
They did ... I think if you call them, they will put it together. I
know that one of their replacement caps consist of two wired in parallel
... :)
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
solde...@my-deja.com
>>I had specific information that could prevent him from screwing up his
machine based on his advice... Sorry that I'm frustrating your
mission to go forth and cluelessly blow up the masses.<<
Oh ... I see .. so you have much experience in this area.
solde...@my-deja.com
>>"And I'll burn in your screen for you!" Keep up the good work,
Garth...<<
Hey Mav: You forgot to make sense again!
How about writing a FAQ about the user adjustable Brightness knob on
the back of the Vectrex? That will reflect your own brightness!
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
(A real guy with a real name!)
The Maverick
>
> >>"And I'll burn in your screen for you!" Keep up the good work,
> Garth...<<
>
> Hey Mav: You forgot to make sense again!
Thanks, Garth!
solde...@my-deja.com
>>Thanks, Garth!<<
Who are you talking about now Mav? If you have something to contribute
about the Vectrex then please do! Maybe you could make a FAQ about the
ON/OFF Volume knob too!
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
Chris McKay
referring to the small PCB located on the end of the tube, right? (just
wanted to make sure).
Will do some tests and let you know.
Thaks everyone, for your responses. This has really helped me out! :)
MC
Tek <myp...@dds.nl> wrote in message news:3A10718D...@dds.nl...
The Maverick
>
> If you have something to contribute
> about the Vectrex then please do! Maybe you could make a FAQ about the
> ON/OFF Volume knob too!
Sure, Garth! The you can be an ass again like when I warned the guy
about screen burn...
Oh yeah, I'll save you the trouble: "Mav, you're not making sense."
Finished now?
Tek
I would not start looking at capicators yet.
Yes, the neck board is the board connected to the end (neck) of the tube).
Mendel
Sean Kelly
I don't get a chance to read the newsgroup very often, but I did notice
this thread and wanted to comment on it real quick, hopefully, for the
benefit of all.
I've repaired, literally, hundreds of Vectrex consoles over the past 10
years and there's a very simple rule of thumb...
Single Dot in Center WITH SOUND = Bad 6522
Single Dot in Center NO SOUND = Bad CPU (6809)
This holds true in about 65-75% of all cases. There are certainly other
things that can cause this problem, but before you go to any great lengths
trying to replace caps and such, I'd certainly try swapping-out the CPU or
6522 depending on the specific symptoms. The main potential problem is
that in about half of the systems, these chips are soldered directly to
the board and the boards can be a bit fragile. Without GOOD de-soldering
equipment, you can, very likely, bust a trace or two in trying to remove
the chip(s).
If this doesn't solve your problem, it could be any number of things
including caps, but I have only seen ONE CRT that had gone bad in ten
years.
Sean Kelly
Richard Hutchinson
even attempt to de-solder the chip out, the heat will certainly lift tracks
off the board. I've socketed all the chips in my Vectrex in readiness for
when it breaks. You can get a 6809 from an old Tandy Color Computer, make
sure it's not the 'B' version as it runs too fast and won't work in the Vec.
Richard H.
solde...@my-deja.com
>>Sure, Garth! The you can be an ass again like when I warned the guy
about screen burn...<<
Yeah .. like he is gonna leave his broken Vectrex (without display) on
for five or six months straight to even possibly burn his screen.
Sure! Right! Thanks for the wisdumb Mav! Why don't you warn everyone
about which end of the soldering pencil to pick up too?
Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
Jeff F.
Have a good one,
Jeff
--
PhillyClassic - the East Coast Classic Gamer's Event
http://www.phillyclassic.com/
Entex Adventure Vision Site:
http://www.adventurevision.com/
--
"Sean Kelly" <ske...@typhoon.xnet.com> wrote in message
news:8uuqai$4sm$1...@flood.xnet.com...
Jeff F.
> for five or six months straight to even possibly burn his screen.
Don't think it would even take 5 or 6 minutes, could be wrong though. I
had some problems with my Tempest in the past and just a few short bursts
from "the dot" left definite burn-in. Maybe it was the slightly higher tube
voltage, maybe not. Definitely better to be safe than sorry.
-Jeff
--
PhillyClassic - the East Coast Classic Gamer's Event
http://www.phillyclassic.com/
Vidiot's Video Arcade:
http://vidiot.freeservers.com/
--
<solde...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:8uuvmh$t1j$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
>
> >>Sure, Garth! The you can be an ass again like when I warned the guy
> about screen burn...<<
>
> Yeah .. like he is gonna leave his broken Vectrex (without display) on
> for five or six months straight to even possibly burn his screen.
> Sure! Right! Thanks for the wisdumb Mav! Why don't you warn everyone
> about which end of the soldering pencil to pick up too?
>
> Rob Mitchell, Atlanta, GA
>
>
Chris McKay
The sound and controls work, only the display isn't working. There is no dot
at all on the screen (even with brightness turned up to the max), but the
tube IS getting voltage (because you can get a spark when you discharge it
with 2 screwdrivers)..
I haven't yet tested any capacitors, but nothing I can see seems to be
burnt out.
Any ideas?
MC.
Rob Carroll
Thanks,
Rob
Paul Dunlap
You are not wrong. Vector monitors are nothing like raster monitors in terms of
screen burn. In the case where your deflection conks out and you are left with
a single beam to the center of the screen, it is a matter of MINUTES - not
hours or days - before you do permanent damage to the screen. This is the case
for a Vectrex, just like ANY arcade vector monitor. And you'll notice that
pretty much every oscilliscope in the world has a dot burned in the middle.
With a beam intense enough, you could theoretically burn all the way through
the glass tube. Don't underestimate the burn-in potential with any vecotr
screen. Anyone flaming anyone else for advising caution is ill-informed or
ignorant.
Only using AOL since @Home won't let me get news remotely!
Please respond to prdu...@home.com
Richard Hutchinson
the time. It really look's like the CRT is gone, the best idea it to get a
TV repair man to look at it, he'll recognise the tube circuitry without
having to know how (or what) the Vectrex works. I never mess with anything
that's above 5v and I'd say don't touch unless you're REALLY sure you know
what you're doing.
Richard H.
Chris McKay
> This also means that there is probably nothing wrong with your tube and HV
> supply. Check also for heater glow in the neck.
This little bit might help: when the unit hasn't been used for several
hours, I can turn it on and see a very brief orange glow around the neck of
the CRT, but it quickly goes away. I'm not too sure about this, but there
might be a very slight glow when the unit is turned on. Still no picture on
the tube, tho (not even the single dot in the middle of the screen I've
heard so much about!) :( Sound and joystick still work fine.
Hope this info helps....
MC.
Tek
Well, if it glows the filament is okay. If it dims, there is a problem in the
power supply. This is an easy check, get a reading of the filament (pin 3 and 4
on the tube socket) power supply, it should be about 6.3 volts AC. Next, check
R529 (3.3 ohms, 1W or replace it right away (costs only about 5 cents). Check
solder connections (especially pin 3 and 4) at the tube socket (on the neck
board) and at the flyback / R529. The tube is probably just fine. (B/W) tubes
don't just die on you like that...
Can you hear a high pitched tone while the vec is on? listen very carefully
around the flyback, and turn it on/of to hear any differences. Maybe it is there
initially but disappears at the same time the filament dims, then you have a bad
flyback or flyback drivve circuitry.
Mendel