Honeymoon Whist
Jim Lee
I remember playing a two-handed card game with a co-worker of mine every
day during lunch break. She called it "Honeymoon Whist", but I can't for
the life of me find any reference to it on the net, nor can I remember the
rules. All I can remember is that it seemed to be a variation on Gin Rummy,
but I'm not entirely sure my memory is correct. Does anyone know of a game
by this name? I was in the New England area of the U.S. at the time, if a
regional clue is of any use. Please enlighten me as I would dearly love to
start playing it again. Thanks!
-Jim
Roland Scheicher
Bridge games are called "Honeymoon Bridge"". Since Whist can be
regarded as "Bridge without auction", I suppose that you simply have
to omit the bidding in "Honeymoon Bridge" in order to play "Honeymoon
Whist".
There are several different ways of playing Two-hand Bridge, of which
"Hoyle" contains three variations.
1) Double dummy
2) Semi exposed dummy
3) Draw Bridge.
David Parlett ("The Oxford Dictionary of Card games") gives the rules
for "German Whist", which he calls "the classic game" (of Whist for
two players), it is essentially the same as "Draw Bridge" (without
bidding, of course) described in "Hoyle". And it seems most likely to
me that this is the game you played.
A description of "German Whist" may be found at John McLeod's page
under
http://www.pagat.com/whist/german_whist.html
Now for other ways of play (if you want to try them):
1) Double dummy
is similar to three-hand Whist, but there are two dummies instead of
one. When playing with two dummies, every player knows the 26 cards of
the dummies, his own 13 cards and therefore the 13 cards left in the
opponent's hand as well. Thus this game could be played with all 52
cards exposed, too.
In order to make play a little bit more difficult, you could try to
play
2) Semi exposed dummy
Here you play the dummies' hands similar to "Chinese Whist", i.e. for
each dummy lay six cards face down in a non-overlapping row, deal six
more cards face up across the same row, so that each of the six pairs
contains of a down card partly covered by an up card. Then lay the
thirteenth card face up beside them. Whenever you play from a dummy's
hand you have to take one of the up-cards, when an upcard reveals a
down card, this card is exposed.
David Parlett also describes "Double Dummy" and a further variant
called "Humbug". The rules for "Chinese Whist" as a three or four hand
game may be found in his book, too, moreover there is an additional
way to play "Chinese Whist" as a two-hand game.
Hope that helps
Roland
Bill Taylor
to step up to the plate.
Yes, I have read of Honeymoon Whist, but I don't recall where, sorry.
I've played it a few times - it's quite fun.
It's called "Honeymoon" because it requires a fair degree of trust that
one's opponent is following suit or not, when there may be no way to check
back on this later. So recommended between honeymooning couples only!
---------------
It is basically whist rules played with a trump suit.
Each player starts with 13 cards; the top of the remainder is turned up,
and this is trumps for the deal. The non-dealer leads to the first trick,
and whoever wins the trick takes the exposed card from the stock, the loser
taking the (hidden) next top card. Then the next stock card is turned up so
that they can see what they're playing for again. The winner of each
trick leads to the next one.
So it continues; the winning of each trick conferring no score value,
just the advantage of getting the up-card (if it's a good one) and of leading
to the next trick. Naturally you will lead low if the up-card is useless.
When all the stock is exhausted, and the players still have 13 cards each,
they continue to play as at whist, and now THESE last 13 tricks DO score.
The winner of the last non-counting trick still leads to the first proper
one. Wining 7 or more of these wins the game. Alternatively, you can play
a longer game of first to reach some pre-assigned total score.
A small variant is to make it no-trumps if the first upcard is (say)
an honour card. Or maybe just for an Ace or King.
---------------
I'm surprised no-one else has heard of it - as I say, it's in some book.
And as I said, it's quite fun. It's a bit too random to make a *really*
serious game, but then what card game isn't, to a large extent?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Taylor W.Ta...@math.canterbury.ac.nz
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The bare table waits.
Cards cascade down onto it!
The game is over.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Roland Scheicher
Your description of "Honeymoon Whist" confirms my assumptions about
this game, since what you've played is the essentially "Draw Bridge"
(without bidding) as found in "Hoyle"; it is also known as "German
Whist" (cf. David Parlett's book and John McLeod's webpage, see the
link in my previous posting)
Regards
Roland
Charles Magri
> It's called "Honeymoon" because it requires a fair degree of trust that
> one's opponent is following suit or not, when there may be no way to check
> back on this later. So recommended between honeymooning couples only!
>
discussions are focused on and set about inventing a game that is a
remedy to the non-policing component of the "honeymoon".
The game I propose is called Showcase and a description may be found
on my page www.geocities.com/cmagri2001/showcase_home.html Check it
out and write back to me if you like. I think this is a fun yet
skillful game which keeps everyone honest in the obligation to follow
suit.
David Parlett
Magri) wrote:
> I have looked at both German Whist and Draw Bridge that the above
> discussions are focused on and set about inventing a game that is a
> remedy to the non-policing component of the "honeymoon".
>
> The game I propose is called Showcase and a description may be found
> on my page www.geocities.com/cmagri2001/showcase_home.html
There are other ways of approaching this. One is simply not to require that suit be followed,
but to make it potentially unprofitable not to do so. A game of mine following this principle
is *Duck Soup*, which can be reached from
http://davidparlett.co.uk/orics.html
I have several others of this type, for two or more players, which I might get round to
posting up some time. I have also experimented with trick-taking games in which you are
penalised if you DO follow suit!
--
David Parlett
d...@davidparlett.co.uk
For books and games visit www.davidparlett.co.uk
Iain Cheyne
d...@davidparlett.co.uk says...
>
> http://davidparlett.co.uk/orics.html
>
Make that http://www.davidparlett.co.uk/orics.html
--
Iain Cheyne
Replace 'spamtrap' with 'cheyne' to reply.
David Parlett
wrote:
Thanks Iain. Sorry about that.
DP
Michael Kenny
1) Each player cuts the cards. Cut again if both cards are the same value. Repeat as needed until 2 cut cards have different values.
2) The person with the highest card has the advantage (it's equivalent to winning the bid in regular whist).
3) The suit of the highest card will be trumps.
4) the cut cards are returned to the deck, with the highest cut card put on the bottom; the non-winning cut card is randomly placed in the deck.
5) starting with the "loser", the players take turns selecting and discarding cards from the deck (cards facing down) in the following manner:
- draw a single card (don't let the other player see it) and decide whether to keep it or discard it (keeping in mind the trump suit determined above)
- draw another card and do the opposite -- i.e., if the first card was kept, the next card must be discarded (the player can look at the card before it is discarded, but the choice must be made before the card can be viewed), and vice versa
-> that is, the player draws 2 cards, keeping one and discarding the other, but the choice of which to keep is made before seeing the 2nd card
- the next player repeats the above, then back to the first player, and so on until all cards are drawn
6) Since the loser of the cut goes first, the winner of the cut will handle the last 2 cards in the deck; because the very last card is known (It is the winning cut card),
this player has the advantage of knowing the value of both cards before making the choice
-> That is, the value of card # 52 is already known when viewing card # 51
7) Each player ends up with 13 cards, also knowing the values of another 13 cards that are out of play. (The loser of the cut also knows the last card, making it a total of 27 cards whose fate is known by this player.)
8) The winner of the cut starts the game, following the normal rules of follow-suit/trump-wins
9) The player with the most packs/tricks wins
Example:
Player 1 cuts a 10 of Hearts; player 2 cuts an 8 of Diamonds
= Hearts are trumps, and the 10 is placed at the bottom of the deck
Player 2 draws card # 1 & decides to keep it (e.g., it is a Heart); the player then draws card # 2 and is forced to throw it away (but Player 2 looks at the card and therefore knows its value)
Player 1 does the same with card #'s 3 and 4; and so on until Player 2's last turn (card #'s 49 & 50)
For card #'s 51 & 52, Player draws a Jack of Hearts for card # 51 and decides to keep it; the 10 of Hearts on the bottom is thrown away (Player 2 knows this and therefore assumes that card # 51 is higher trump than a 10)
Player 1 leads with a card, and Player 2 follows the normal rules (follow suit if possible, otherwise throw down any card desired; the highest card of the original suit wins, unless trumps are involved, in which case the highest trump wins)
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