thanks,
Josh Sharpe
> I've had a Cyclone for about a year that has worked flawlessly. Recently it
> began behaving strangely.
> When first turned on there was a steady buzz in the head (like a coil, but
> softer) I quickly shut the game off. I then tried turning it back on and
> got a single knock from the knocker coil then nothing but GI. The next time
> I turned it on, steady buzz in the head.
> The fourth time I turned on the machine it came up normally. I played
> several games with no weirdness until the game just froze up. Turned it off
> and back on, game comes up normally.
> Current situation: game almost always fires up, but will freeze up,
> sometimes during gameplay, sometimes when its idling. Any ideas?
Double check your +5vdc ... it's possible it's running low due to a
failing
filter cap. That's the 18,000 uf guy on the power supply PCB. Try a
new
one (anything over 15,000uf at 25vdc will work) and see if it helps.
However to check one, you would need to use a capacitance meter that
can handle this value. I did this check this past weekend, but my
capacitance meter does not go up this high. Instead, I used the RC
decay of a known load.
The procedure requires some electronics expertise. Disconnect the 5V
to the CPU board, and connect a 1kOhm resistor and a DVM across the
capacitor. Turn the machine on, and verify 5V +/-0.2V on the DVM.
Then shut off power and see how long it takes to decay to 37% of the
original value. This is one time constant, and should take about 18
seconds or longer.
If this is true, the cap has not degraded.
Edward Cheung
You might also try what beaver says, but because of the random nature
of the freezeup, if it is the power supply, the ac ripple would cause
this.
I've done a LOT of board swapping, chip replacing, grounding, isolating,
resoldering cracked joints, etc. to try and fix problems like this in
various System 11 games over the years (High Speed seems to be the worst)
and about the best solution (but not always the cure) is to replace the
bridge rectifier on the main power supply board. Good idea (ie: strongly
recommended) to replace the 18kuf filter cap at the same time.
The game is bascially halting or locking up before/during boot-up so the
cpu/system isn't running and the game is stuck in a "frozen" state.
Symptoms from this will vary, but essentially your game isn't booting up,
and this is usually due to power supply weaknesses/problems which are common
in a 17+ year old game that hasn't had a full overhaul/upgrade.
So I would start with the power supply:
1) Replace bridge rectifier- if anything, just for good measure. Go with
heavy-duty 35amp 400v unit for durability/reliability.
2) Replace C10 filter cap- original is axial lead 18,000 uF 25v. These
aren't made anymore, but we use 15,000 uF 50v radial lead as replacement,
and install 2 short jumper wires on the radial leads to connect the cap to
the PC board (later Sys 11 power supplies had mounting holes for both axial
and radial lead caps).
3) Check/reflow solder on backs of connector pins on all boards in backbox.
4) Power up and check voltages coming off the power supply to make sure
they're within tolerances- 4.9-5.2vdc on 5 volt logic rail, and 13.5-16.5
vdc on unregulated 12vdc line- these are the critical voltages for MPU board
to boot and run.
If problems still persist, then you most likely have a low-level problem on
the MPU board- failed component(s) and should probably consider repair by
qualified person/shop at that point.
We have the replacement heavy-duty rectifiers and filter caps in stock- see
our website at: www.actionpinball.com for pics, prices, and online ordering.
Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com
We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
A 17 year old electrolytic cap should just simply be replaced- don't spend
time "testing" something that's spent most, if not all of it's usefulness
over the last 17 years. These big caps dry up inside over time and after so
many years, simply cannot be trusted to do a good job anymore (let alone for
any more years to come).
Just replace it. If you still have problems, you can at least rest assured
that this part has been replaced and can be ruled out as being a possible
cause.
Ray J.
--
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
Web: www.actionpinball.com
We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!
"beaver" <e...@edcheung.com> wrote in message
news:1129654570....@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Also as Ray said you can use a 15,000 mfd cap. Heck you can
use a 10,000 mfd cap too. Just make sure it's a NEW cap.
-Josh Sharpe