TECH: pinbot pop bumper sockets

calvin12

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Sep 6, 2010, 6:57:28 PM9/6/10

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I'm tearing down my pinbot to clearcoat it and obviously need to take
off the pop bumpers. It has the #44 bulbs in it now. Since I have
to desolder the socket can I change it to a 555 socket like on pinball
life?
like this
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1245&parent=0
or
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=299&parent=0

I realize the second one will be "floppy" in the bumper but it seems
like to would be easier to solder back down being flexible.

Lloyd Olson

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Sep 6, 2010, 7:21:03 PM9/6/10

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Your game, do what you like. LTG :)

"calvin12" <regis...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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GaryTheNoTrashCougar

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Sep 6, 2010, 7:23:46 PM9/6/10

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On Sep 6, 5:57 pm, calvin12 <regismai...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm tearing down my pinbot to clearcoat it and obviously need to take
> off the pop bumpers. It has the #44 bulbs in it now. Since I have
> to desolder the socket can I change it to a 555 socket like on pinball
> life?
> like thishttp://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1245&parent=0

> orhttp://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=299&parent=0

>
> I realize the second one will be "floppy" in the bumper but it seems
> like to would be easier to solder back down being flexible.

I would go with the more original looking ones. Yes, the wired ones
make it nice and easy to solder back in place, but they leave extra
wires hanging under the playfield right by the mechanics of the pop
bumper solenoids. The ones with the flat contacts will be easy enough
to staple and solder back into place when the playfield is bare. Just
my recommendation, take it for what its worth. :)
--Scott

calvin12

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Sep 6, 2010, 8:03:40 PM9/6/10

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On Sep 6, 6:21 pm, "Lloyd Olson" <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote:
> Your game, do what you like. LTG :)
>

> "calvin12" <regismai...@gmail.com> wrote in message

I wasn't sure of those sockets were compatible voltage wise or size
wise.

calvin12

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Sep 6, 2010, 8:04:17 PM9/6/10

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So changing to 555 isn't any issue electrically? Thats my biggest
concern.

cody chunn

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Sep 6, 2010, 8:05:41 PM9/6/10

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I prefer the flat lead type as well. $2.18 over at Pinball Resource (if you
are as tight as I am these days).

--
-cody
--

"GaryTheNoTrashCougar" <djs...@gmail.com> wrote in message
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Lloyd Olson

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Sep 6, 2010, 8:11:08 PM9/6/10

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Socket doesn't know the difference between a 6 volt bulb and a 6 volt bulb.
LTG :)

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cody chunn

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Sep 6, 2010, 8:15:06 PM9/6/10

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No diff. What you want to do is make sure the bulb doesn't contact the
bumper cap when it's together.

--
-cody
--

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seymour.shabow

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Sep 7, 2010, 7:43:56 AM9/7/10

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Go with original style - the 555 sockets stick up farther in the pop
bumper burning the cap.

The stranded wire socket will be harder to solder down as the wires
won't stay in place without help - the flat leaded ones will stay where
you bend them.

You can bend the 44 sockets shut to make a really nice contact with the
bulb (the bulb should be slightly hard to push in the socket) - use an
old #44/47 lamp in there the filaments are better - you don't want to
have to remove a bunch of crap to get to the pops to change a bulb.
(Don't use ones that have darkened glass, though)

-scott CARGPB#29

calvin12

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Sep 7, 2010, 11:47:50 AM9/7/10

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I have LEDs in the pops so I'm not worried about burning the caps, or
changing the bulbs. The current 44 sockets don't wrap around the base
like in GI lights, its just a base plate and a curved upper plate that
the knobs sit under. I haven't seen 44 sockets like those to get as
replacements. So to keep the 44's I'd need to careful desolder them as
opposed to just cutting them off. And its a pain to get in there, I'm
pulling the top stuff off the board but leaving everything under the
board while I clear coat it.

seymour.shabow

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Sep 7, 2010, 12:11:24 PM9/7/10

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calvin12 wrote:
>
> I have LEDs in the pops so I'm not worried about burning the caps, or
> changing the bulbs. The current 44 sockets don't wrap around the base
> like in GI lights, its just a base plate and a curved upper plate that
> the knobs sit under. I haven't seen 44 sockets like those to get as
> replacements. So to keep the 44's I'd need to careful desolder them as
> opposed to just cutting them off. And its a pain to get in there, I'm
> pulling the top stuff off the board but leaving everything under the
> board while I clear coat it.

If you're putting LEDs in doesn't matter which way you go then - you'd
think someone would just make an LED with leads though vs. having a
socket to worry about getting loose.

Pinball resource sells the correct sockets for that machine though -
almost every pop before the 555 style uses them.

-scott CARGPB#29

cody chunn

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Sep 7, 2010, 5:48:32 PM9/7/10

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>I have LEDs in the pops

ICK! Do whatever you want, it can't get worse.

--
-cody
--

"calvin12" <regis...@gmail.com> wrote in message

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calvin12

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Sep 7, 2010, 11:17:42 PM9/7/10

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On Sep 7, 4:48 pm, "cody chunn" <cchu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >I have LEDs in the pops
>
> ICK! Do whatever you want, it can't get worse.
>
> --
> -cody
> --
>

> "calvin12" <regismai...@gmail.com> wrote in message

No flicker and a red frosted LED under the red caps winds up looking
close to an incandescent without the constant replacement.