On Apr 26, 6:24 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
It's most likely that this piece of plastic is offset and is opening
up the opto at the wrong point. You're suggestion of making the holes
in the actual planet ring wider to twist it round a touch would
probably work, but your best option is to check what I suggested out
first.
The piece of plastic i'm talking about is quite hard to get to, it's
behind the motor and a huge metal bracket, try not to force it out to
look at it.
Investigate that area, clean the optical sensors whilst you're at it,
take some photo's and report back to us.
Kind Regards
Danny
Anyways, I shot a video. I hope this will be helpful in trouble
shooting what the problem is because maybe the problem is the arm or
something else. I don't know, mine has never worked ao I'm not sure.
Thanks! ...Steve
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlOg7WEFh28
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=03-8869
Taylor34
On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> > Lakes Modular Opto replacement board for the Deadworld.http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/jddwo.html- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
wrote:
On Apr 28, 9:58 pm, taylor34 <at93...@yahoo.com> wrote:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/Bally_1993_Judge_Dredd_Manual-ArmLi.jpg
On Apr 29, 1:31 pm, highjon <jnhigg...@lineone.net> wrote:
> Well kept secret....
> there is a tiny allen key fastener on thearmabove the playfield,
> round the rear of the metal disc,if you slacken this and movethe cranearma little then tighten up it should work. and you do it with the
> playfield down.
> took me ages to find this after trying to do it with the playfield up-
> nigh on impossible
> hope this helps
> John
>
> On Apr 29, 7:51 am, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Nevermind, I figured it out. I'm learnign alot. LOL. The solenoid
> > tests won't work unless you have the coin door closed and the magnet
> > seems to be fine. So, I just need to get the alignment thing done and
> > I think I'll be all set. Hopefuly I can adjust the black ring and the
> > opto board will do the trick. I found this huge board connectected
> > next to the motor on the bottom of the world, I wonder if this little
> > board replaces that huge board down there? OK, I guess we'll
> > see! ..Steve
>
> > On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > There is a small indention in the shaft of the Deadworld where the set
> > > screw of the black ring should sit. I would also recommend the Great
> > > Lakes Modular Opto replacement board for the Deadworld.http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/jddwo.html-Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
I just ordered and recieved the Receiver and Transmitter Ball Trough
Opto boards, and I installed the Transmitter and I'm going to install
the Receiver tomorrow. I wish I would have known a head of time and I
could have ordered them all at the same time. So, it seems like
installing the Deadworld Opto board will also make a difference in
where the ball holes stop? Do you think I should adjust the Black
Ring and then install the board when I get it or just install the
board and see how it works? I looked at the diagram and it says
A-16598 Planet Opto PC Board, but it doesn't show where it's at. I'll
have to assume it's under the playfield, hopefully not hard to get
too? Thanks! ...Steve
On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
wrote:
Alex
Danny is correct, your opto ring is offset.
Your playfield should stand up OK. Pull it forwards until it locks -
at this point, the brackets will rest on the front edge. It won't slip
back, you should feel it click into place.
Then swing it up to vertical, and a little past. it will rest against
the backbox. It is stable in this position, but be careful.
Now, find the interrupter ring. It is held on with a set screw - yours
may be loose. Try rotating it a fraction anti-clockwise. If it is not
tight, this should be easy. If it is tight, you have to loosen the
screw a little.
Now, you can put the playfield down and test.
When done, tighten up the set screw.
Then I'll remove the top off the globe and check the black ring and
see what's going on with that.
Then I'll remove the motor at the bottom and check the black ring from
underneath and see what's going on at the bottom and see if there is
any adjustments down there or if anything is broken, etc.
Hopefully I'll find something in one of those 3 things above, and I'll
get back to you.
I was trying to use the arm to keep the playfield up, but I couldn't
figure out how to do it. I don't think it's the original arm, because
I have a different arm on my other pinball and that works in holding
up the playfield a little way up, but not at a 90 degree angle. The
arm in my other pinball has a nob at the end that clicks in the bottom
of the playfield to hold it up, but the Judge Dredd doesn't have
anything like that, just a straight rod.
I'll try what it suggested in manual and see if I can get it up that
way. I took a pick of the arm. Thanks! ...Steve
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0350.jpg
On Apr 29, 4:30 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
> I wouldn't buy a dead world opto board unless I was convinced what you
> had wasn't working or could be adjusted...I think you might need to
> step back from all thisarm/ world adjustment and just spend a little
> When done, tighten up the set screw.- Hide quoted text -
The crane plastic IIRC is held on by just to small screws on the
top...then you can see the actual arm, pivot, magnet, etc.
There isn't anything to do with respect to adjustments from the top of
the globe regarding a black interrupter...the only adjustment on the
top of the playfield with respect to deadworld are the 3 slotted holes
on the orange ring you already tried to adjust but didn't have enough
adjustment.
No you do not have to take off the black interrupter ring on the
assembly to adjust it (which means you don't have to remove the motor/
gearbox!). Look at the black interrupter ring closely and there should
be a very small set screw (will be one of your smallest allen wrench
sizes) right where the ring is around the spinning shaft - that is
what you need to either check is loose and or loosen to rotate the
ring to a better position and then tighten.
The playfield once pulled far out enough horizontally until it won't
go any further, can then be swung vertically and lean against the
backbox comfortably for you to work on the underneath without risk of
it falling.
Please ensure the backbox is clipped down and secured to the main
cabinet using the large metal screw inside the backbox.
+-WARNING-+
I recommend NOT using the support arm provided, as do a lot of other
people. As it only supports one side of the playfield, it can cause
the playfield to twist. Infact you can see it twisting for yourself as
soon as you use it. You can't really do much at the angle it supports
it at anyway. Steer clear of using the support arm unless you REALLY
have to.
Here is what's going on. When I looked at the interrupter I saw a
loose screw jammed between the interrupter and the playfield. I'm not
sure where that screw goes. Maybe it's the screw that screws into the
interrupter hole because that screw seems to be missing? You said
that screw has to be removed with an allen wrench. I can't find that
screw, so I don't know if that screw is an allen screw, and I never
saw the head of the screw. I used a small screw driver and needle
nose pliers to get the screw out. It took a while because it was
really wedged in there good. I see a screw hole in the interrupter
but nothing in the hole. When I removed the jammed screw it fell
into the bottom of the pinball cabinet and I can't find it. I took
some pictures, so maybe this will be helpful with you understanding
what I'm talking about. If that is the screw that goes into the
interrupter then shouldn't the interrupter be loose and move around
easily? Well, it does't, so that makes me think it's not the right
screw to loosen it and move it. Thanks... Steve
Picture of screw stuck in between interrupter and playfield:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0354.jpg
Close up of screw stuck in between interrupter and playfield:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0353.jpg
Picture of my interrupter in my pinball:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0356.jpg
On Apr 30, 3:25 am, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
> That prop bar "arm" is the factory piece...almost nobody uses it
> because you usually either want the playfield all the way up per the
> manual or they just let it sit partially out on the front edge of the
> cab on the "safety brackets". Also thatarmonly supports the left
> side of the playfield which puts a torque on the playfield which IMO
> isn't good for it.
>
> The crane plastic IIRC is held on by just to small screws on the
> top...then you can see the actualarm, pivot, magnet, etc.
See that gold hole in your interrupter ring top(picture 3)? There's
an alan screw inside there. Loosen that, rotate the disc, tighen back
up
> up- Hide quoted text -
1. Forget the loose screw for now
2. stick alan wrench in gold hold. you will have to try a few sizes
to get it right
3. when the right wrench is found, loose the screw in there (there's
a screw with no head with an alan wrench middle inside that gold hole)
4. adjust the ring
5. retighten the screw
> 5. retighten the screw- Hide quoted text -
On Apr 30, 11:40 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> OK, yeah, I did that and it's still not working. I think there is a
> couple of issues why it's still not working. The first is that there
> is some play on the lower plastic ring. I'm just guessing the play is
> maybe 1/2" or it could even be 1". I didn't measure it. The other
> problem I think is that thearmis too low. So, the balls hit thearm
> when it comes around, before it even tries to pick it up, and that
> moves the lower ring, so it's always in different possitions. So, I
> think I need to raise thearmso it's not so low, and also is there a
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
even with the original "slotted" ring (non-deadworld mod), the ball
shouldn't be moving around when it gets to the stopped position to be
picked up with the crane - is there any chance you have the ring
installed upside down? i would think if it was the balls would fall
right off but something isn't right if the ball moves around when the
ring stops at the crane pickup area - do you not have your game setup
with any rake in the playfield (back legs of the game adjusted higher
than front legs)?
I don't think there is a left/right adjustment on the arm...if there
was it would have been discussed in the website about adjusting the
crane.
I have no idea if the ring is installed upside down. How do you
tell? Isn't the ring the same if it's upside down or not, so why
would it matter?
I don't know if the back legs are higher then the front, I didn't even
know you could adjust them. I haven't done anything to the pinball,
and I haven't had it that long and I don't know what the people did to
it that had it before me. I guess the legs higher in the back
wouldn't have anything to do with the balling falling over to the
left, it would be the legs on the left are lower then the ones on the
right. I guess I can put the glass back on and get a level and check
that if you think that's important.
I'll shoot another video in a little bit and put it up. I was just
wondering where that loose screw came from and if it had anything to
do with the problems I'm having. It has to have come from some place
in the planet assembly. Thanks! ...Steve
> I don't think there is a left/right adjustment on thearm...if there
You can see it in the video. Sometimes when the ring came around you
can't see my hand but I sometimes move the ring to try and get the arm
to grab the balls, but it didn't help much. Thanks.. Steve
Close-up of Slot in Lower Dead World Ring:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0360.jpg
On May 1, 3:31 am, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
> I don't think there is a left/right adjustment on thearm...if there
On May 1, 1:30 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I took another video and I'll upload it soon and put a link
> here. I took a close-up picture of the lower ring. I guess if you
> turned it upside down the slots would point up instead of down and the
> ball might not move then when thearmtrys to grab them. The diagram
> > crane.- Hide quoted text -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFViruexfSg
On May 1, 1:30 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I took another video and I'll upload it soon and put a link
> here. I took a close-up picture of the lower ring. I guess if you
> turned it upside down the slots would point up instead of down and the
> ball might not move then when thearmtrys to grab them. The diagram
> > crane.- Hide quoted text -
if you can't find where it went to just make a note for yourself and
maybe someday you will stumble across where it came from. just be glad
it didn't fall somewhere and short something out...that is why when I
drop a screw under the playfield, I spend alot of time looking for it/
finding it as it could cause you alot more time/money fixing busted
electronics the next power cycle.
"And the timing - the crane optos need to trigger the magnet after
the
crane has just started moving back towards the exit. Otherwise, it
cuts off too early and looks weak. It should be able to snap the ball
in from about 3/16" away when centered."
"The crane doesn't have a whole lot of power, nor does it stay on for
very long. So it needs to be tuned just right. The drop height and
crane optos are critical settings, but once set right it should work
fine."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EVK6P-78Ww
On May 1, 8:11 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I turned the slotted hole plastic ring the other way around and
> it makes a huge difference. The ball stays in place now. So, it
> looks like it was upside down before. I also found where the loose
> screw came from. It belonged to the slotted hole plastic ring. So,
> now I know someone was messing with it before and must have put it
> upside down when they replaced it. I re-adjusted the interrupter ring
> so it's just about as perfect as you can get it. I also re-adjusted
> the hight of thearmand tried it lower and higher, etc. and I think
> it's pretty good right now. It's still not working though. I think
> the problem is a weak magnet. It just can't pick up the ball. I'm
> going to shoot another video in a little bit, but I'm 100% possitive
> it's either a weak magnet or the magnet isn't staying on long enough.
> So, how do you fix an issue like that? Do you replace the magnet? Is
> there an adjustment somewhere? Thanks! ...Steve
>
> On May 1, 5:12 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
>
>
> > I don't think he has a weak magnet...here are some quotes from Martin
> > (who probably knows as much as anybody about the crane/deadworld
> > function) in older discussions on this topic:
>
> > "And the timing - the crane optos need to trigger the magnet after
> > the
> > crane has just started moving back towards the exit. Otherwise, it
> > cuts off too early and looks weak. It should be able to snap the ball
> > in from about 3/16" away when centered."
>
> > "The crane doesn't have a whole lot of power, nor does it stay on for
> > very long. So it needs to be tuned just right. The drop height and
> > crane optos are critical settings, but once set right it should work
> > fine."- Hide quoted text -
Looks like you have gearbox slop. It is super annoying, because the
ball position varies depending on how many balls are in the ring.
The magnet is naturally weak, unless it is right on top of the ball.
You will need to adjust the arm timing so that the magnet turns on
when the arm is on the way back.
http://iobium.com/tuning_judge_dredd_for_the_locki.htm
Under problem #3, how to adjust the magnet timing
Under problem #5, a movie of the whole thing working. Note that the
last ball works best. This machine has a really sloppy ring.
> last ball works best. This machine has a really sloppy ring.- Hide quoted text -
You probably have the hole too far away from the opto. Set it up so
that the hole is over the opto when the arm is over the ball.
Do this by using the arm test to get the arm at the point where it has
just started to move back to the ball drop, then adjust the wheel
until the opto fires. Do this with the playfield forward, so that you
can reach down behind the back of the playfield.
The camera must be playing tricks on the video, because the ring, even
though it looked the wrong way, when i checked mine, it seemed to be
the right way. Looks like a bit of an optical illusion though and
couldn't get my brain to register it :D
Hopefully Steve gets all of his JD problems eventually fixed so he can
play the game and not just work on it. However I think he still has
pending Johnny Mnemonic issues lingering...he has come a long way in
the last few weeks though.
I've been working on the JD all afternoon. It's still not working.
Once in a while it will work though. I've adjusted the hole so it's
over the opto when it lowers down, but that's not when it's over the
ball. I just noticed something. I've been watching the video on how
the arm is supposed to work and mine doesn't work the same way. On
the video on it working correctly the arm goes all the way over to the
right and drops down and picks up the ball and then moves over to the
left and drops the ball. Mines not doing that. Mine is going all the
way over to the right then moves to the left just a little past the
ball and then lowers (this is where I start the magnet) then it raises
and moves to the left. So, it's just missing lowering on the ball
now. It looks like it wasn't doing that before I started messing with
adjusting the magnetic timing. That's the only problem I can see
right now. I'm not sure what I did to cause this issue or what makes
the arm go up and down. I can shoot another video so you can see
what's happing if you don't understand what I'm talking about, just
let me know. Thanks! ..Steve
I think Radio Shack carries those diodes if you are impatient to put
the new switches back on JM.
Martin hopefuly will probably chime in on the crane adjustment, but
isn't the up/down just the shaft riding on the spining tapered black
ring? I don't have my game here to look - I don't remember what
controls the left / right of the crane.
As far as the resetting problem, your best bet is to read that section
in the Marvin repair guides to understand what you need to look at /
do to figure out the problem...I can say one thing you can check
easily is the wall outlet ac voltage now / when it happens again...if
it is low, it can cause resets - maybe only briefly goes low when your
air conditioning, refridgerator comes on? Try to understand what was
going on when the next reset happens as it might give you a clue
(hitting both flipper buttons at the same time, multiball, nothing?).
Too many things to state / try to walk you through on the board like
this deadworld adjustment until you follow the repair guide and get
further along with what "isn't" the problem. Were you playing either
this game or JM before with no reset problems or are both of these
pins your first new pins?
So, I'm going to try and place an order with him soon. I think I'll
order from him diodes, fuses and the other parts, connectors, headers,
etc. On JM I'm going to try and put another fuse in to see if it
blows and then take it from there. I'm probably going to wait for
anything else until my friend gets out here this summer. I'm scared
to pull the board that I might cause more problems or do more damage
to it.
Also, on JD the black ring can move up and down quite a bit, and I
didn't know where on the rod I should tighten it. Close to one
optical sensor or the other, or in the middle or what. When I
tightened it close to the far optical sensor the crane lifted way up
and when I tightened it to the closer optical sensor the crane was way
down. So, I don't know. I also tried it by removing the sensors so
there is no black wheel there anymore thinking the magnet would be on
all the time then so I can test how strong the magnet is lifting the
ball, but that didn't work either. I'll make another video and upload
it in a little bit.
These are both my first pins, and I've learned a lot lately about
them. Only the JD did the reset and it only did it that one time. I
hardly played the JD, but I have played the JM more times because of
all the problems with the JD it wasn't much fun to play. I won't
worry about the reset for now and see if it still happens, etc.
Nobody has gotten back to me about the loose wire that I took a
picture of to see if it's suppose to be hanging loose or plugged into
something.
Thanks! ...Steve
Video of Arm issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI
Judge Dredd Pinball Arm location when wheel slit is at optos
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0367.jpg
Judge Dredd Pinball Arm when wheel slit is at optos side view.
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0366.jpg
Judge Dredd Pinball Arm when wheel slit is at optos front view.
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0365.jpg
> > pins your first new pins?- Hide quoted text -
OK...
1) You need a new lever arm. That's the slotted thing that moves the
crane. Yours is wicked worn. That leaves way too much slop in the arm.
2) The crane is going over too far. It might be bent, or the lever arm
and crane hub may not be locked onto flats on the shaft that runs from
the crane to the wheel. You can adjust this by loosening the set
screws and rotating the shaft, but it is designed to be aligned
correctly if assembled with the correct parts.
3) Moving the wheel up and down will not affect the timing, but it
will raise and lower the arm.
4) Your wheel has a ramp that lifts the arm as it turns. Your timing
is still off. If you fix #2, it will be better.
Putting it all another way, the arm mechanism sweeps the arm from left
to right. It should sweep between the drop lane and the ring,
centering on the ball hole.
Then, the lifter cam, (the disk) has a ramp that makes the arm rise
and drop. When it drops, it also has an opto slot that tells the
machine to fire the magnet. You want that drop to happen just after
the crane starts its return from the deadworld - not before. Get that
timed right, and the magnet will have plenty of power.
As your machine is now, the wheel needs to be turned back a few
degrees to compensate for the misalignment of the crane sweep. It will
probably not drop the magnet in the drop lane because of the slop and
misalignment.
Tell me what you'd like to see and what would help.
PS. In your latest video (Video of Arm issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI ) The ring is on upside
down, that's why the balls have stopped being picked up by the magnet
completely because the ball is hooked onto the ring now rather than
having a clear path to come off. I know it doesn't make sense but it
was originally on the right way. I'll show you in the pictures of mine
when my video camera is charged later.
Kind Regards
Danny
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=A%2D16771
I tightened the set screw in the back of the pivot and hug assembly of
the arm lifter assembly after re-aligning the arm. I think it's
better now. Here is a picture of when it's all the way over to the
right. There is lots of play in it, so it was really hard to set it:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0370.jpg
I took pictures of the shaft lifters, etc. so you can see if they are
bent, etc. They seem to be bent, but I'm not sure if that's what they
are supposed to look like or not, or if they need to be replaced.
Side View:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0368.jpg
Front View:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0369.jpg
It still seems to be dropping the arm at the wrong spot and not when
it's at the far right, but a little after that point. If I set the
slit in the wheel when the arm is all the say at the right will that
fix the arm drop problem? I think that's what you are telling me.
I haven't adjusted the wheel yet. I assume you mean the dead world
wheel? I will mess with that after I'm finished with the arm issues.
I guess I need to redo the slot in the wheel with the optos so it
starts teh magnet when the crane is all the way over to the right,
too. Thanks! ...Steve
> misalignment.- Hide quoted text -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFViruexfSg
On May 4, 12:59 am, DannyBoySmit <da...@octofuzz.co.uk> wrote:
> Hey again, I'm going to upload some photographs and some video's of
> this whole assembly later on (in approximately 6 hours).
>
> Tell me what you'd like to see and what would help.
>
> PS. In your latest video (Video of Arm issue:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI) The ring is on upside
Upload a birdseye photo of the planet rings. If you can take the photo
at just the point that the rings stop turning for the ball to be
picked up, i can determine if the ring's are stopping too early or too
late also. (take the crane plastic off)
Danny
I personally would take the whole crane assembly away from the machine
(taking lots of photographs in the process) to straighten them rods
out and replace the lever which you are purchasing. Don't jump onto
doing that yet though, somebody with a little more experience may pop
in with a better suggestion!
Regards
Danny
In this particular video:
1. The orange ring is the wrong way round (upside down)
2. The magnet is definitely weak
3. The crane is in a good enough position over the rings to pick up
the ball, but due to the back rod being so bent, it's unable to go all
the way over towards the drop point.
They are your problems.
The slop in the ring wouldn't cause any problem with a ball being
picked up if the magnet was strong enough, simple as that. The pickup
from the magnet doesn't look as clean but it's still strong enough to
flick/jump the ball out of the ring.
You need to check how much power is getting to that magnet!
Shaft Pivot:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=02%2D4819
Shaft Lifter:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=02%2D4818
Cam Plastic:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=03%2D8998
I think the Opto bracket where the ball is dropped needs to be
replaced. It's all bent out of shape from hitting the side of the
pinball. I think they might be all miss aligned now. I'm not sure
though.
So, replace Shaft Lifter, Shaft Pilot, Cam Plastic and Lever Assy.?
Judge Dredd Dead World top view with balls:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0372.jpg
Judge Dredd Dead World top view without balls:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0371.jpg
Judge Dredd Arm final position front view:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0373.jpg
- Turn the planet ring back how it originally was, as it's upside down
in that picture
- Replace/Straighten the rods
- Replace the lever for the crane assy (even this may not be necessary
but the one you have got is ready for packing in any time)
- Find out why your magnet is weak and sort it out (sorry my knowledge
of electronics is limited so I don't know how to troubleshoot the
magnet apart from checking if it has enough power going to it)
I strongly believe, that will make it all work!
Here is my ring, the angle of the photo should help you see which way
it goes round, especially if you look at the slot at the top of the
picture:
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/wireformramps.jpg
Here are my light blue and magenta slingshot posts and some cards i
made to go in place of the instruction cards.
1) I had to replace the AA batteries, but it doesn't say which side
the possitive end goes. Do you know? It's not marked any place I can
see and it doesn't say in the manual. I didn't pay any attention to
how the old batteries where, because I assumed it was marked some
place.
2) Do you know about the loose cable I posted previously and if it's
supposed to be loose or plugged in someplace?
3) The power connector on my JM is missing the grounding connector.
It looks like it was broken off. Do you think that matters or is a
problem?
4) I'm having problems soldering. I just bought a 40watt soldering
iron, but it takes like an hour each time to melt the solder and it
melts into these little balls and keeps rolling away. I've spent like
5 or 6 hours trying to solder and I'm getting no place fast!
Thanks! ...STeve
http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index3.htm#factory
Read this section of the repair manual...it may help you with
soldering issues:
http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm
If you are talking about the ground pin on the power cord plugging
into the wall, you should fix that...it probably isn't causing you any
problems right now but it is basically a safety hazard as you could
become the path to ground if a power short happens in the game.
I believe for a JM you can just replace the whole cord with a computer-
like cord - just remove the back cover on the game where the cord goes
in and you will see what I mean. Try to find the longest one you can
as the 6ft standard ones will suck as you will need the game right
next to the outlet. You can also put a new end on it too (like from
Home Depot) but IMO those look like crap.
As I stated before, I don't have my game so I can't comment on that
plug you are talking about.
Alex
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0343.jpg
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0344.jpg
Ah thanks mate, thought I was going mad for a minute then, I must be
tired!
That doesn't connect anywhere, think it jumps the wires together
that's all. It shouldn't be connected to anything =]
Regarding the soldering, I get my dad to do it. I've seen some real
awful soldering and a bad solder can quite often cause things just to
simply not work. I'm not too bad myself but I wouldn't personally
solder on the machine until I feel confident at it. Just practice on
some old motherboards/graphics cards etc from an unused computer. Be
careful with a soldering iron that you can't control the temperature
on, you'll most likely over heat switches etc and ruin them.
And dont attempt soldering with that 40 watt on the boards if you were
thinking of doing the header pins!!! get a 25 watt that has a max temp
at like 750 degrees like the weller iron sold at home depot... you
cant use a 40 watt especially if you are a newbie as you will get that
thing too hot and destroy your boards!! Follow the solder instructions
on the pinrepair site, you should not have problems if you have a
steady hand.
Well, I'm having major problems with these new switches for the ramps
I got for the JM. They don't look exactly the same as the old ones
and the 3 stems that stick up are different distances a part then the
ones on the old switches. So I'm not sure if they are exactly the
same. How do I know for sure what stem to solder the diode too and
the other wires? I tried to do the same ones as the old switch, but
when I did the switch test I think it was always open and wouldn't
close. So, I'm not sure what the problem is. I'm getting a little
frustrated because it took me all night to do the soldering..
Thanks! ...Steve
I'm no expert so that's the only advice I can give you on the
electronics side of things!
JM Pinball broken power connector
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0376.jpg
JM Pinball Power Box External
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0377.jpg
JM Pinball Power Box Inside
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0378.jpg
It looks like the power lead on the batteries always goes to the right
or up. So, that was really helpful.
I guess I need to go to Radio Shack and get new solder then and maybe
a new 25 wattt soldering iron instead of the 45 watt one I just
purchased? I checked all the wires and diodes and it looks like they
are connected right. The one switch with the wires connected is
always closed but it won't open unless I remove the bottom wire and
then it closes. So, maybe because I kept the soldering iron on the
diode and the wires on the switch for hours at a time it ruined them?
The soldering iron was really hot but it would take like 45 minutes
holding the solder on the iron for it to melt, so maybe there is
something wrong with the type of solder I got? So, maybe I should get
a new 25 watt soldering iron, and new solder at Radio Shack and start
all over with new switches and diodes? Is it possible I did damage to
the PCB in the game from having the soldering iron on the switch wires
for such a long period of time? I have lots of pictures of the
switches and wires. Unfortunetately, I don't remember what wire goes
where on the one switch on the right ramp. I took a picture so I
would remember, but I can't tell from the picture I took. Does it
really matter what wire goes where since it's just a switch?
JM Pinball Right Ramp Switch the original one:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0334-1.jpg
JM Pinball Right Ramp Switch the new one I installed:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0375.jpg
JM Pinball Left Ramp Switch Originally installed:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0332.jpg
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0349-1.jpg
JM Pinball Left Ramp Switch I mounted the new switch, but haven't un-
soldered and removed the cables from the old switch, so they are both
here:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0374.jpg
Thanks, Steve....
On May 5, 5:33 am, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
On May 5, 6:05 am, DannyBoySmit <da...@octofuzz.co.uk> wrote:
> On May 5, 1:52 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
> > He posted it from a different thread he had:
>
> >http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0343.jpghttp://i...
> steady hand.- Hide quoted text -
On May 5, 1:52 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
On May 1, 9:01 pm, martin <martin.reyno...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 1, 8:11 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Well, I turned the slotted hole plastic ring the other way around and
> > it makes a huge difference. The ball stays in place now. So, it
> > looks like it was upside down before. I also found where the loose
> > screw came from. It belonged to the slotted hole plastic ring. So,
> > now I know someone was messing with it before and must have put it
> > upside down when they replaced it. I re-adjusted the interrupter ring
> > so it's just about as perfect as you can get it. I also re-adjusted
> > the hight of the arm and tried it lower and higher, etc. and I think
> > it's pretty good right now. It's still not working though. I think
> > the problem is a weak magnet. It just can't pick up the ball. I'm
> > going to shoot another video in a little bit, but I'm 100% possitive
> > it's either a weak magnet or the magnet isn't staying on long enough.
> > So, how do you fix an issue like that? Do you replace the magnet? Is
> > there an adjustment somewhere? Thanks! ...Steve
>
> > On May 1, 5:12 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
> > > I don't think he has a weak magnet...here are some quotes from Martin
> > > (who probably knows as much as anybody about the crane/deadworld
> > > function) in older discussions on this topic:
>
> > > "And the timing - the crane optos need to trigger the magnet after
> > > the
> > > crane has just started moving back towards the exit. Otherwise, it
> > > cuts off too early and looks weak. It should be able to snap the ball
> > > in from about 3/16" away when centered."
>
> > > "The crane doesn't have a whole lot of power, nor does it stay on for
> > > very long. So it needs to be tuned just right. The drop height and
> > > crane optos are critical settings, but once set right it should work
> > > fine."
>
> Looks like you have gearbox slop. It is super annoying, because the
> ball position varies depending on how many balls are in the ring.
>
> The magnet is naturally weak, unless it is right on top of the ball.
> You will need to adjust the arm timing so that the magnet turns on
> when the arm is on the way back.
>
> http://iobium.com/tuning_judge_dredd_for_the_locki.htm
>
> Under problem #3, how to adjust the magnet timing
>
> Under problem #5, a movie of the whole thing working. Note that the
> last ball works best. This machine has a really sloppy ring.- Hide quoted text -
You are not quite there yet.
The arm takes a long time to slow down and reverse travel. So the opto
slot needs to engage just after the arm starts its return journey.
Arm moves all the way to the right
Arm reaches the "top dead center" and stops moving for a moment
Arm starts moving back
Magnet drops and opto fires.
If you have it any earlier thatn this, it will drop the ball too
early.
Also, if your arm motor is dirty it will be slow, then you will have
the same problem. But yours looked OK.
Cleaning it is a dirty job.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMQFx4vIaCo
> Cleaning it is a dirty job.- Hide quoted text -
is your playing field level?? and is the orange planet ring level
(horizontally)?? all i can think of is the thick rod with holds and
spins the planet is bent?? causing the balls to roll off?
I will say maybe you just need to step back a little from this and
just in your mind think about all the steps which have to happen to
make this work right...(just a very simplistic example - deadworld has
to park a non-moving ball at the correct spot for the crane to pick it
up, the crane has to move right over the ball and pick it up,
etc...you get the point try to isolate what mid-step really isn't
working and then make the adjustment).
I assume you read the repair manual section about basic soldering? You
were definitely doing something wrong if the iron was really hot and
it took hours to get the solder to melt...yes you probably damaged the
diode and switch if you were heating them that long. As you probably
read in the guide, you may want to consider buying a better soldering
iron (variable temperature) before you plunk another $15+ down for a
25W cheap-o from Radio Shack again. I can tell you having the right
tools makes all the difference - you can Google here at RGP for some
iron buying suggestions.
Yes once you take that plate off the back of the game where the power
cord goes in you will see that this end of the plug looks just like
the end which is used on a computer power cord.
the reason the ball isn't in the correct position to be picked up is
because the crane is so far bent back its out of position for pickups.
i may be wrong there, but the ring isn't on the wrong way round. mine
is on that way round and functions perfectly. the longer side of the
slot should be at the bottom when its in position for pickup.
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
The only reason that the ball will be rolling off early is the ring is
leaning to the left like this / rather than ---. Or the magnet is
pulling them across the slot.
Your crane is most likely in the completely wrong position due to the
rod being so bent.
But yeah, I agree that you need to step back and think of it
methodically. If your ring is on the correct way round and isn't
leaning to the left causing gravity to naturally bring the ball off
too early. Then it could be the crane magnet causing them to roll
off.
Try deactivating the magnet, unplug it or move it somewhere.. then run
the test with the balls and see if they roll off still at that point.
It also seems the world doesn't always stop at the same spot and
sometimes I think it stops a little too far. I don't know if there is
a way to fix the world or how hard it is. I think you said I need to
replace some gears or something? I think you said there is no way to
adjust for the play in the world?
I think the best thing to do at this point is order all the new parts
that are warn or broken, the 2 new rods, that metal thing with the
slit in the middle and a new black plastic circle thing that has the
slit in it, just incase it's too warn. So, I'll let you know when I
get them and install them and see what happens and take it from
there. Thanks! ...Steve
> Cleaning it is a dirty job.- Hide quoted text -