Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss

Judge Dredd Arm Adustments..

341 views
Skip to first unread message

Apota

unread,
Apr 26, 2009, 8:21:10 PM4/26/09
to
Well, it seems like my arm isn't working properly. It picks up the
ball from the globe but the arm doesn't move far enough to the left
and when it drops the ball it drops it back into the globe. Do I just
go to T.15 on the menu and follow the instructions to adjust it to the
left? I don't have to unscrew anything to do that kind of adjustment
do I? Thank you!

Apota

unread,
Apr 26, 2009, 9:15:02 PM4/26/09
to
OK, I did the T.16 Unload Globe Test and figured out that's not the
problem. I'd say 90% of the time the arm doesn't pick up the ball,
and I figured out that the problem isn't the arm but the globe. The
globe hole stops too late and it's too far for the arm to pick it up
properly, so it needs to stop sooner and be centered. So, I'll follow
the instructions in the manual under T.15 and hopefully that works.
Thanks..

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 26, 2009, 9:24:08 PM4/26/09
to
This is a better write-up on how to adjust the crane / deadworld on
JD:

http://iobium.com/tuning_judge_dredd_for_the_locki.htm

Apota

unread,
Apr 27, 2009, 1:54:14 AM4/27/09
to
Yeah, I tried loosening the 3 screws on the slotted holes on the
plastic world piece and turned it, but it won't turn far enough. If
those holes on the mod are bigger then I'll be OK, but they don't look
like they are. I guess I have to adjust the eccentril and lifter
wheel. I'm not quite sure I understand it, but I'm going to try and
figure it out. Thanks..

Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald

unread,
Apr 27, 2009, 2:22:31 AM4/27/09
to
Make sure the metal rods that support your crane are 100% straight and
not bent in any way.

Apota

unread,
Apr 28, 2009, 10:25:31 PM4/28/09
to
I still really need help with this. Those instructions you sent me
seem to only have to do with the arm and I think my arm is working
fine. I just think the ring is stopping a little too far. I'm
thinking the best thing to do is to remove the plastic ring and make
those slotted holes a little bigger so I can move the ring a little
farther. That's the ony way I can see to fix this issue. Maybe I'll
make a video so you can see how it's operating and give me better
advice? Thanks.. Steve

On Apr 26, 6:24 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:

DannyBoySmit

unread,
Apr 28, 2009, 10:44:13 PM4/28/09
to
There are two opto's at the bottom of the whole assembly which you can
reach from underneath the playfield. There is a black circular piece
of plastic with a slot in it which opens the opto's at a particular
point, this switch becoming "open" is what stops the planet ring for
the ball to be unloaded by the crane.

It's most likely that this piece of plastic is offset and is opening
up the opto at the wrong point. You're suggestion of making the holes
in the actual planet ring wider to twist it round a touch would
probably work, but your best option is to check what I suggested out
first.

The piece of plastic i'm talking about is quite hard to get to, it's
behind the motor and a huge metal bracket, try not to force it out to
look at it.

Investigate that area, clean the optical sensors whilst you're at it,
take some photo's and report back to us.

Kind Regards
Danny

Apota

unread,
Apr 28, 2009, 11:33:02 PM4/28/09
to
The problem is that I can't do that with just me, I'd need to find
someone to help me. I can't hold up the playfield with one hand and
do other things with the other. I was trying to find a solution I
could have where I can do it myself. Maybe I can get the playfield to
stand up by itself. I tried it once and it didn't stay and it fell
down, and I was able to catch it before it crashed.

Anyways, I shot a video. I hope this will be helpful in trouble
shooting what the problem is because maybe the problem is the arm or
something else. I don't know, mine has never worked ao I'm not sure.
Thanks! ...Steve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlOg7WEFh28

taylor34

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 12:58:49 AM4/29/09
to
It's the black ring underneath that's your problem, it's out of
adjustment somehow. All it takes is an alan wrench to loosen it and
move it a little bit, although there isn't a whole lot of play (I
think the rod is flat so there's only a little play there). It looks
like this:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=03-8869

Taylor34

Apota

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 1:15:26 AM4/29/09
to
OK, you sure that's all it is? How could you tell that from the
video? That's amazing! Thanks, I hope you are right. I found the
Planet Assembly with that part on page 2-27 of the manual. So, can I
get to it from just dissessembling it from the top of the playfield?
Hopefully I don't have to go from underneath. Let me know. Thanks..
Steve

Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 1:25:28 AM4/29/09
to
There is a small indention in the shaft of the Deadworld where the set
screw of the black ring should sit. I would also recommend the Great
Lakes Modular Opto replacement board for the Deadworld.
http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/jddwo.html

Apota

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 2:51:40 AM4/29/09
to
Nevermind, I figured it out. I'm learnign alot. LOL. The solenoid
tests won't work unless you have the coin door closed and the magnet
seems to be fine. So, I just need to get the alignment thing done and
I think I'll be all set. Hopefuly I can adjust the black ring and the
opto board will do the trick. I found this huge board connectected
next to the motor on the bottom of the world, I wonder if this little
board replaces that huge board down there? OK, I guess we'll
see! ..Steve

On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

highjon

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 4:31:35 PM4/29/09
to
Well kept secret....
there is a tiny allen key fastener on the arm above the playfield,
round the rear of the metal disc,if you slacken this and movethe crane
arm a little then tighten up it should work. and you do it with the
playfield down.
took me ages to find this after trying to do it with the playfield up-
nigh on impossible
hope this helps
John

> > Lakes Modular Opto replacement board for the Deadworld.http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/jddwo.html- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

DannyBoySmit

unread,
Apr 28, 2009, 10:48:00 PM4/28/09
to
PS. This may sound silly but are both the planet rings actually on the
correct way round? It's not a common mistake for people to make, but
it does happen.

Apota

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 2:36:12 AM4/29/09
to
I'm wondering if the magnet in the arm is even working. Can you test
the magnet? What are the solenoid tests for? I tried doing the
selonoid test for the magnet and it didn't hold the ball, but I don't
think any of the solenoid tests work because every solenoid test I did
the only thing that seemed to happen was the dead world turned a
little bit. So, I'm really confused if I have a bigger problem, or if
that's what it's supposed to do. Thanks! ...Steve

On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

apo...@hotmail.com

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 5:10:08 PM4/29/09
to
Can I get too the black ring and the opto board by the top of the
playfield and taking a part the planet assembly from the top of the
playfield down? That's the only way I can get to it right now. I
don't really have a way to hold the playfeild up by myself to work on
it from the bottom of the playfriend. Thanks. Steve

On Apr 28, 9:58 pm, taylor34 <at93...@yahoo.com> wrote:

apo...@hotmail.com

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 6:31:14 PM4/29/09
to
Well, the only way that would work is if it made the arm longer so it
can reach farther to get the ball. Is that what it does? Do I need
to take off the arm cover to get to it? What metal disc do you mean?
Is the key fastener you are talking about on this diagram?
Thanks! ..Steve

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/Bally_1993_Judge_Dredd_Manual-ArmLi.jpg

On Apr 29, 1:31 pm, highjon <jnhigg...@lineone.net> wrote:
> Well kept secret....

> there is a tiny allen key fastener on thearmabove the playfield,
> round the rear of the metal disc,if you slacken this and movethe cranearma little then tighten up it should work. and you do it with the


> playfield down.
> took me ages to find this after trying to do it with the playfield up-
> nigh on impossible
> hope this helps
> John
>
> On Apr 29, 7:51 am, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > Nevermind, I figured it out.  I'm learnign alot. LOL.  The solenoid
> > tests won't work unless you have the coin door closed and the magnet
> > seems to be fine.  So, I just need to get the alignment thing done and
> > I think I'll be all set.  Hopefuly I can adjust the black ring and the
> > opto board will do the trick.  I found this huge board connectected
> > next to the motor on the bottom of the world,  I wonder if this little
> > board replaces that huge board down there?  OK, I guess we'll
> > see!  ..Steve
>
> > On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > There is a small indention in the shaft of the Deadworld where the set
> > > screw of the black ring should sit. I would also recommend the Great

> > > Lakes Modular Opto replacement board for the Deadworld.http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/jddwo.html-Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 1:43:48 PM4/29/09
to
I tried posting this earlier but it didn't work...anyway you must be
doing something wrong if you can't get the playfield to stay up by
itself...are you following the instructions on page 1-5 of the manual?

Apota

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 1:44:44 AM4/29/09
to
So, you are agreeing that the black ring needs to be loosened and re-
adjusted? I guess the set screw is what I need to loosen to move the
black ring?

I just ordered and recieved the Receiver and Transmitter Ball Trough
Opto boards, and I installed the Transmitter and I'm going to install
the Receiver tomorrow. I wish I would have known a head of time and I
could have ordered them all at the same time. So, it seems like
installing the Deadworld Opto board will also make a difference in
where the ball holes stop? Do you think I should adjust the Black
Ring and then install the board when I get it or just install the
board and see how it works? I looked at the diagram and it says
A-16598 Planet Opto PC Board, but it doesn't show where it's at. I'll
have to assume it's under the playfield, hopefully not hard to get
too? Thanks! ...Steve

On Apr 28, 10:25 pm, "Mick 'GrueLurks' McDonald" <gruelu...@gmail.com>
wrote:

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 7:21:14 PM4/29/09
to
you need to have one of the white switches on the coin door engaged
(simulating the coin door shut; I don't remember which one top or
bottom) to run any of the soleniods as the high voltage is cut to the
solenoids when this white switch is out...the factory gave you a clip
for this but you should be able to figure something out on your own if
you don't have one. that is why none of them are working when you do
the soleniod tests.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 7:22:53 PM4/29/09
to
you have to adjust deadworld opto black ring interrupter from the
underside of the playfield...you need to learn how to properly lift up
the playfield - see page 1-5 of the manual it will stay up by itself.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 7:30:03 PM4/29/09
to
I wouldn't buy a dead world opto board unless I was convinced what you
had wasn't working or could be adjusted...I think you might need to
step back from all this arm / world adjustment and just spend a little
time just studying how all of it basically works by watching it run
with the playfield up. Then the suggested adjustments might make more
sense to you.

Alex

DannyBoySmit

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 7:33:55 PM4/29/09
to
Yeh I agree, I doubt you need to replace the opto board on the
deadworld assy. If that was shot, the planet rings wouldn't stop at
all.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 7:50:02 PM4/29/09
to
just a FYI, as the manual warns make sure you watch the crane arm
before you raise / lower the playfield (mostly lowering IIRC). it can
get in a position where it might catch the back lip of the cab and get
bent if it hasn't already at one point in the past.

Ozricman

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 12:01:25 PM4/29/09
to
Just in case you didn't know, there is an arm inside the right side of
the cabinet that you can lift up that will support the playfield at an
upright angle similar to the ones under your car hood. Again, you
need to get the "This Old Pinball" repair video called "Lost in the
Zone", you will get a detailed jump start into repairing.

http://marvin3m.com/top/

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 8:45:01 AM4/29/09
to
What do you mean the playfield won't stay up by itself??? You should
be able to lift it up and pull it out some so it rests on the 2
"safety bracket" arms on the front of the cab, then raise just a
little more and pull more such that it "locks" so you can then raise
it all the way up resting against the head. You must be doing
something wrong here - see page 1-5 of the manual. Note it can still
fall in this raised position leaning against the head if you are
messing with it, but it won't fall just resting there.

martin

unread,
Apr 29, 2009, 12:38:22 AM4/29/09
to

Danny is correct, your opto ring is offset.

Your playfield should stand up OK. Pull it forwards until it locks -
at this point, the brackets will rest on the front edge. It won't slip
back, you should feel it click into place.

Then swing it up to vertical, and a little past. it will rest against
the backbox. It is stable in this position, but be careful.

Now, find the interrupter ring. It is held on with a set screw - yours
may be loose. Try rotating it a fraction anti-clockwise. If it is not
tight, this should be easy. If it is tight, you have to loosen the
screw a little.

Now, you can put the playfield down and test.

When done, tighten up the set screw.

apo...@hotmail.com

unread,
Apr 30, 2009, 4:43:23 AM4/30/09
to
OK, first thing I'll do is take the arm cover off to see if the rods
are bent or if anything is wrong with the arm mechanisim. I assume
you just unscrew the bolt on the very top off and that removes the
cover? I'll take a picture and send it.

Then I'll remove the top off the globe and check the black ring and
see what's going on with that.

Then I'll remove the motor at the bottom and check the black ring from
underneath and see what's going on at the bottom and see if there is
any adjustments down there or if anything is broken, etc.

Hopefully I'll find something in one of those 3 things above, and I'll
get back to you.

I was trying to use the arm to keep the playfield up, but I couldn't
figure out how to do it. I don't think it's the original arm, because
I have a different arm on my other pinball and that works in holding
up the playfield a little way up, but not at a 90 degree angle. The
arm in my other pinball has a nob at the end that clicks in the bottom
of the playfield to hold it up, but the Judge Dredd doesn't have
anything like that, just a straight rod.

I'll try what it suggested in manual and see if I can get it up that
way. I took a pick of the arm. Thanks! ...Steve

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0350.jpg

On Apr 29, 4:30 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
> I wouldn't buy a dead world opto board unless I was convinced what you
> had wasn't working or could be adjusted...I think you might need to

> step back from all thisarm/ world adjustment and just spend a little

apo...@hotmail.com

unread,
Apr 30, 2009, 4:51:24 AM4/30/09
to
OK, well it looks like I have to remove the motor, etc. to get to the
interrupter ring from the bottom right? That's what it looks like
from looking at the diagram in the manual.. Steve

> When done, tighten up the set screw.- Hide quoted text -

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
Apr 30, 2009, 6:25:11 AM4/30/09
to
That prop bar "arm" is the factory piece...almost nobody uses it
because you usually either want the playfield all the way up per the
manual or they just let it sit partially out on the front edge of the
cab on the "safety brackets". Also that arm only supports the left
side of the playfield which puts a torque on the playfield which IMO
isn't good for it.

The crane plastic IIRC is held on by just to small screws on the
top...then you can see the actual arm, pivot, magnet, etc.

There isn't anything to do with respect to adjustments from the top of
the globe regarding a black interrupter...the only adjustment on the
top of the playfield with respect to deadworld are the 3 slotted holes
on the orange ring you already tried to adjust but didn't have enough
adjustment.

No you do not have to take off the black interrupter ring on the
assembly to adjust it (which means you don't have to remove the motor/
gearbox!). Look at the black interrupter ring closely and there should
be a very small set screw (will be one of your smallest allen wrench
sizes) right where the ring is around the spinning shaft - that is
what you need to either check is loose and or loosen to rotate the
ring to a better position and then tighten.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
Apr 30, 2009, 11:54:42 AM4/30/09
to
Regarding lifting the playfield.... Please look at the instructions in
the manual carefully.

The playfield once pulled far out enough horizontally until it won't
go any further, can then be swung vertically and lean against the
backbox comfortably for you to work on the underneath without risk of
it falling.

Please ensure the backbox is clipped down and secured to the main
cabinet using the large metal screw inside the backbox.

+-WARNING-+

I recommend NOT using the support arm provided, as do a lot of other
people. As it only supports one side of the playfield, it can cause
the playfield to twist. Infact you can see it twisting for yourself as
soon as you use it. You can't really do much at the angle it supports
it at anyway. Steer clear of using the support arm unless you REALLY
have to.

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 1:41:08 AM5/1/09
to
OK, that's a lot better. I got the playfield up and leaning on the
backbox and it makes everything so much easier then having to hold the
playfield up with one had and work on it with the other. LOL

Here is what's going on. When I looked at the interrupter I saw a
loose screw jammed between the interrupter and the playfield. I'm not
sure where that screw goes. Maybe it's the screw that screws into the
interrupter hole because that screw seems to be missing? You said
that screw has to be removed with an allen wrench. I can't find that
screw, so I don't know if that screw is an allen screw, and I never
saw the head of the screw. I used a small screw driver and needle
nose pliers to get the screw out. It took a while because it was
really wedged in there good. I see a screw hole in the interrupter
but nothing in the hole. When I removed the jammed screw it fell
into the bottom of the pinball cabinet and I can't find it. I took
some pictures, so maybe this will be helpful with you understanding
what I'm talking about. If that is the screw that goes into the
interrupter then shouldn't the interrupter be loose and move around
easily? Well, it does't, so that makes me think it's not the right
screw to loosen it and move it. Thanks... Steve

Picture of screw stuck in between interrupter and playfield:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0354.jpg

Close up of screw stuck in between interrupter and playfield:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0353.jpg

Picture of my interrupter in my pinball:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0356.jpg

On Apr 30, 3:25 am, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
> That prop bar "arm" is the factory piece...almost nobody uses it
> because you usually either want the playfield all the way up per the
> manual or they just let it sit partially out on the front edge of the

> cab on the "safety brackets". Also thatarmonly supports the left


> side of the playfield which puts a torque on the playfield which IMO
> isn't good for it.
>
> The crane plastic IIRC is held on by just to small screws on the

> top...then you can see the actualarm, pivot, magnet, etc.

taylor34

unread,
May 1, 2009, 1:46:29 AM5/1/09
to

See that gold hole in your interrupter ring top(picture 3)? There's
an alan screw inside there. Loosen that, rotate the disc, tighen back
up

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 1:53:49 AM5/1/09
to
OK, but the manual says that a Set Screw #8, 1/8" goes in that hole.
Is that the allen screw you are talking about? So, if that's the case
then I wonder where that loose screw goes? I wonder if I should worry
about it and take everything a part to try and find where that screw
goes, or just forget about it and hope it didn't go to anything
important? ...Steve

> up- Hide quoted text -

taylor34

unread,
May 1, 2009, 1:57:24 AM5/1/09
to

1. Forget the loose screw for now
2. stick alan wrench in gold hold. you will have to try a few sizes
to get it right
3. when the right wrench is found, loose the screw in there (there's
a screw with no head with an alan wrench middle inside that gold hole)
4. adjust the ring
5. retighten the screw

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 2:40:16 AM5/1/09
to
OK, yeah, I did that and it's still not working. I think there is a
couple of issues why it's still not working. The first is that there
is some play on the lower plastic ring. I'm just guessing the play is
maybe 1/2" or it could even be 1". I didn't measure it. The other
problem I think is that the arm is too low. So, the balls hit the arm
when it comes around, before it even tries to pick it up, and that
moves the lower ring, so it's always in different possitions. So, I
think I need to raise the arm so it's not so low, and also is there a
way to remove so much play in the lower ring? Did I not tighten the
set screw enough and is that why their is so much play? Thanks..
Steve

> 5.  retighten the screw- Hide quoted text -

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 3:21:08 AM5/1/09
to
OK, I figured out how to adjust the arm higher, so I've adjusted it
just about the right hight, right above the balls and not touching
them anymore. I removed the arm cover and then found the two screws
that you turn to raise the arm level. I think the other problem is
that the lower ring doesn't have holes, it has the open slots, so the
ball keeps moving around and it makes it hard for the arm to grab it.
The arm might need to be adjusted a little to the left but I don't
know if you can adjust it right and left. So, I just need to know if
you can fix such a big problem in the play of the lower ring. I guess
I also need to order the Dead World Lock Mod with the lower ring that
has the holes in it, so the balls don't keep moving around and I can
adjust the arm correctly and figure out exactly what's going on. What
do you guys think? Thanks! ...Steve

On Apr 30, 11:40 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> OK, yeah, I did that and it's still not working.  I think there is a
> couple of issues why it's still not working.  The first is that there
> is some play on the lower plastic ring.  I'm just guessing the play is
> maybe 1/2" or it could even be 1". I didn't measure it.  The other

> problem I think is that thearmis too low.  So, the balls hit thearm


> when it comes around, before it even tries to pick it up,  and that
> moves the lower ring, so it's always in different possitions.  So, I

> think I need to raise thearmso it's not so low, and also is there a

> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 1, 2009, 6:31:45 AM5/1/09
to
the play in your ring is from the gearbox - there isn't anything you
are going to be able to do about that. about all you can do is try to
figure out the "midddle" of the average stopping point of your ring
(with respect to the crane pickup) and try to adjust it there so you
have a high probability of the magent getting it when the crane comes
by, which it should.

even with the original "slotted" ring (non-deadworld mod), the ball
shouldn't be moving around when it gets to the stopped position to be
picked up with the crane - is there any chance you have the ring
installed upside down? i would think if it was the balls would fall
right off but something isn't right if the ball moves around when the
ring stops at the crane pickup area - do you not have your game setup
with any rake in the playfield (back legs of the game adjusted higher
than front legs)?

I don't think there is a left/right adjustment on the arm...if there
was it would have been discussed in the website about adjusting the
crane.

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 3:37:27 PM5/1/09
to
OK, I removed the arm cover and I'll make another video. I noticed
that when the ball gets to the stop point that sometimes it starts
rolling off the edge before the arm can grab it.

I have no idea if the ring is installed upside down. How do you
tell? Isn't the ring the same if it's upside down or not, so why
would it matter?

I don't know if the back legs are higher then the front, I didn't even
know you could adjust them. I haven't done anything to the pinball,
and I haven't had it that long and I don't know what the people did to
it that had it before me. I guess the legs higher in the back
wouldn't have anything to do with the balling falling over to the
left, it would be the legs on the left are lower then the ones on the
right. I guess I can put the glass back on and get a level and check
that if you think that's important.

I'll shoot another video in a little bit and put it up. I was just
wondering where that loose screw came from and if it had anything to
do with the problems I'm having. It has to have come from some place
in the planet assembly. Thanks! ...Steve

> I don't think there is a left/right adjustment on thearm...if there

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 4:30:04 PM5/1/09
to
Well, I took another video and I'll upload it soon and put a link
here. I took a close-up picture of the lower ring. I guess if you
turned it upside down the slots would point up instead of down and the
ball might not move then when the arm trys to grab them. The diagram
in the manual shows holes in the bottom ring and not slots, so I can't
see how it's supposed to be. Actually, maybe the ring is in the right
possition, because I think if I put it the other way the words would
then be backwords. I can try it and see what happens though.

You can see it in the video. Sometimes when the ring came around you
can't see my hand but I sometimes move the ring to try and get the arm
to grab the balls, but it didn't help much. Thanks.. Steve

Close-up of Slot in Lower Dead World Ring:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0360.jpg

On May 1, 3:31 am, linn...@verizon.net wrote:

> I don't think there is a left/right adjustment on thearm...if there

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 4:33:28 PM5/1/09
to
Nevermind, the printing is on the upper ring and not the lower ring.
So the bottom ring could be upside down... Steve

On May 1, 1:30 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I took another video and I'll upload it soon and put a link
> here.  I took a close-up picture of the lower ring.  I guess if you
> turned it upside down the slots would point up instead of down and the

> ball might not move then when thearmtrys to grab them.  The diagram

> > crane.- Hide quoted text -

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 5:09:55 PM5/1/09
to
Well, here is the video, maybe I should shoot the video from a
different angle from the other side of the playfeild. Maybe that
would make it easier to see what's happening with the arm and the
balls? ....Steve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFViruexfSg


On May 1, 1:30 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Well, I took another video and I'll upload it soon and put a link
> here.  I took a close-up picture of the lower ring.  I guess if you
> turned it upside down the slots would point up instead of down and the

> ball might not move then when thearmtrys to grab them.  The diagram

> > crane.- Hide quoted text -

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:19:57 PM5/1/09
to
The orange ring is on upside down. I called it on page 1. Woop :D!


DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:21:30 PM5/1/09
to
oh no I don't think it is actually. i take it back.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:32:52 PM5/1/09
to
looks upside down to me in the picture, although it has been a long
time since I had a slotted ring - the physics of it just don't make
sense to have it the way his is - that is why the ball wants to move
when it stops to be picked up - flipping it back up would make the
ring "cradle" the ball at that position.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:39:32 PM5/1/09
to
also, in case it isn't obvious, when you buy the deadworld mod, make
sure you buy the kit and not just the new plastic ring - the kit comes
with the different game ROM which enables the lock feature
again...also be very careful changing the ROM such that you get it in
correctly (you can install the chip 180 degrees out - there is a mark
on the chip to tell you where pin 1 is).

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:41:34 PM5/1/09
to
I thought the same it doesn't make sense. but then I looked at mine.
and it actually looks like that too.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:45:25 PM5/1/09
to
It actually looks like a weak magnet to me. The magnet should pull it
from where it's stopping and the ball should be flush on the magnet.
not just dangling by a thread.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 1, 2009, 7:51:31 PM5/1/09
to
oh yeah, about that screw...who knows - could have been dropped by a
previous owner long ago and just forgotten about - not uncommon. I'm
sure if you look in the bottom of your cab you will find some others
too.

if you can't find where it went to just make a note for yourself and
maybe someday you will stumble across where it came from. just be glad
it didn't fall somewhere and short something out...that is why when I
drop a screw under the playfield, I spend alot of time looking for it/
finding it as it could cause you alot more time/money fixing busted
electronics the next power cycle.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 1, 2009, 8:12:53 PM5/1/09
to
I don't think he has a weak magnet...here are some quotes from Martin
(who probably knows as much as anybody about the crane/deadworld
function) in older discussions on this topic:

"And the timing - the crane optos need to trigger the magnet after
the
crane has just started moving back towards the exit. Otherwise, it
cuts off too early and looks weak. It should be able to snap the ball
in from about 3/16" away when centered."

"The crane doesn't have a whole lot of power, nor does it stay on for
very long. So it needs to be tuned just right. The drop height and
crane optos are critical settings, but once set right it should work
fine."

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 11:11:25 PM5/1/09
to
Well, I turned the slotted hole plastic ring the other way around and
it makes a huge difference. The ball stays in place now. So, it
looks like it was upside down before. I also found where the loose
screw came from. It belonged to the slotted hole plastic ring. So,
now I know someone was messing with it before and must have put it
upside down when they replaced it. I re-adjusted the interrupter ring
so it's just about as perfect as you can get it. I also re-adjusted
the hight of the arm and tried it lower and higher, etc. and I think
it's pretty good right now. It's still not working though. I think
the problem is a weak magnet. It just can't pick up the ball. I'm
going to shoot another video in a little bit, but I'm 100% possitive
it's either a weak magnet or the magnet isn't staying on long enough.
So, how do you fix an issue like that? Do you replace the magnet? Is
there an adjustment somewhere? Thanks! ...Steve

Apota

unread,
May 1, 2009, 11:53:24 PM5/1/09
to
Here is the video. Hopefully there is a way to fix the magnet issue.
I don't see how it could be anything else anymore. Thanks! ..Steve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EVK6P-78Ww

On May 1, 8:11 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I turned the slotted hole plastic ring the other way around and
> it makes a huge difference.  The ball stays in place now.  So, it
> looks like it was upside down before.  I also found where the loose
> screw came from.  It belonged to the slotted hole plastic ring.  So,
> now I know someone was messing with it before and must have put it
> upside down when they replaced it.  I re-adjusted the interrupter ring
> so it's just about as perfect as you can get it.  I also re-adjusted

> the hight of thearmand tried it lower and higher, etc. and I think


> it's pretty good right now.  It's still not working though.  I think
> the problem is a weak magnet.  It just can't pick up the ball.  I'm
> going to shoot another video in a little bit, but I'm 100% possitive
> it's either a weak magnet or the magnet isn't staying on long enough.
> So, how do you fix an issue like that?  Do you replace the magnet?  Is
> there an adjustment somewhere? Thanks!  ...Steve
>
> On May 1, 5:12 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
>
>
> > I don't think he has a weak magnet...here are some quotes from Martin
> > (who probably knows as much as anybody about the crane/deadworld
> > function) in older discussions on this topic:
>
> > "And the timing - the crane optos need to trigger the magnet after
> > the
> > crane has just started moving back towards the exit. Otherwise, it
> > cuts off too early and looks weak. It should be able to snap the ball
> > in from about 3/16" away when centered."
>
> > "The crane doesn't have a whole lot of power, nor does it stay on for
> > very long. So it needs to be tuned just right. The drop height and
> > crane optos are critical settings, but once set right it should work

> > fine."- Hide quoted text -

martin

unread,
May 2, 2009, 12:01:28 AM5/2/09
to
On May 1, 8:11 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:

Looks like you have gearbox slop. It is super annoying, because the
ball position varies depending on how many balls are in the ring.

The magnet is naturally weak, unless it is right on top of the ball.
You will need to adjust the arm timing so that the magnet turns on
when the arm is on the way back.

http://iobium.com/tuning_judge_dredd_for_the_locki.htm

Under problem #3, how to adjust the magnet timing

Under problem #5, a movie of the whole thing working. Note that the
last ball works best. This machine has a really sloppy ring.

Apota

unread,
May 2, 2009, 5:12:22 AM5/2/09
to
Well, I followed the instructions up to Line #3, and then I don't get
it. I keep turning the wheel and nothing happens. I try T.16 and the
arm doesn't stop moving it's constantly moving and not stopping in
different positions like the instructions say, and T.15 the arm just
stays still all the time. So, I don't understand what I'm trying to
do by turning the wheel. I see the slit in the wheel and the opto
sensor. All I know is that it's really messed up now and the magnet
doesn't seem to be working at all anymore. Can someone explain to me
what I'm doing wrong? Shouldn't I just move the arm over the whole
where the ball goes and then move the wheel until the slot is over the
opto sensor then tighten the set screw? Thanks... Steve

> last ball works best. This machine has a really sloppy ring.- Hide quoted text -

martin

unread,
May 2, 2009, 10:26:46 AM5/2/09
to

You probably have the hole too far away from the opto. Set it up so
that the hole is over the opto when the arm is over the ball.

Do this by using the arm test to get the arm at the point where it has
just started to move back to the ball drop, then adjust the wheel
until the opto fires. Do this with the playfield forward, so that you
can reach down behind the back of the playfield.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 2, 2009, 11:54:10 AM5/2/09
to
Gotta love how the JD guys stick together on here.

The camera must be playing tricks on the video, because the ring, even
though it looked the wrong way, when i checked mine, it seemed to be
the right way. Looks like a bit of an optical illusion though and
couldn't get my brain to register it :D

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 2, 2009, 3:26:44 PM5/2/09
to
Yeah, 57 posts and counting...before you know it we will be rivaling
the "remake Lord of the Rings" thread :)

Hopefully Steve gets all of his JD problems eventually fixed so he can
play the game and not just work on it. However I think he still has
pending Johnny Mnemonic issues lingering...he has come a long way in
the last few weeks though.

Apota

unread,
May 3, 2009, 5:56:22 PM5/3/09
to
Yeah, well, it's like the never ending saga. Since you mentioned it
I've fixed all the problems on both pinballs except 2 last problems on
each. The JM I just have to replace both ramp switches and the G.I.
string 5 issue. I got the new switches in, but I'm still waiting for
the diodes. I ordered them from China ant it's taking forever for
them to get here. I think I'm going to give up on wating and just
used the old ones. LOL The Judge Dredd is the Dead World and Arm and
the game resetting. I think for the resetting problem and the G.I.
problem I'm going to wait until my friend visits me this summer,
because he's an engineer and he can help me trouble shoot those
(hopefully).

I've been working on the JD all afternoon. It's still not working.
Once in a while it will work though. I've adjusted the hole so it's
over the opto when it lowers down, but that's not when it's over the
ball. I just noticed something. I've been watching the video on how
the arm is supposed to work and mine doesn't work the same way. On
the video on it working correctly the arm goes all the way over to the
right and drops down and picks up the ball and then moves over to the
left and drops the ball. Mines not doing that. Mine is going all the
way over to the right then moves to the left just a little past the
ball and then lowers (this is where I start the magnet) then it raises
and moves to the left. So, it's just missing lowering on the ball
now. It looks like it wasn't doing that before I started messing with
adjusting the magnetic timing. That's the only problem I can see
right now. I'm not sure what I did to cause this issue or what makes
the arm go up and down. I can shoot another video so you can see
what's happing if you don't understand what I'm talking about, just
let me know. Thanks! ..Steve

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 3, 2009, 7:12:59 PM5/3/09
to
From you pics you posted on the JM GI connector, at a minimum your
problem is a burnt connector and header - both need to be replaced
first w/o doing any more. With any luck, that will be your problem and
you will be done. Note if you don't have experience soldering on
circuit boards, I suggest getting someone to do it for you for
replacing the header or at least practice alot on some scrap boards
from somewhere (like computer boards, arcade boards, etc). Ed at Great
Plains Electronics can hook you up with all that you need to do it -
he posts here at GPE.

I think Radio Shack carries those diodes if you are impatient to put
the new switches back on JM.

Martin hopefuly will probably chime in on the crane adjustment, but
isn't the up/down just the shaft riding on the spining tapered black
ring? I don't have my game here to look - I don't remember what
controls the left / right of the crane.

As far as the resetting problem, your best bet is to read that section
in the Marvin repair guides to understand what you need to look at /
do to figure out the problem...I can say one thing you can check
easily is the wall outlet ac voltage now / when it happens again...if
it is low, it can cause resets - maybe only briefly goes low when your
air conditioning, refridgerator comes on? Try to understand what was
going on when the next reset happens as it might give you a clue
(hitting both flipper buttons at the same time, multiball, nothing?).
Too many things to state / try to walk you through on the board like
this deadworld adjustment until you follow the repair guide and get
further along with what "isn't" the problem. Were you playing either
this game or JM before with no reset problems or are both of these
pins your first new pins?

Apota

unread,
May 3, 2009, 7:44:09 PM5/3/09
to
Well, I already contacted Ed and here was his response, "The headers
in the pictures don't look too bad. Hard to tell but I think J121
looks fine. J120 looks to have one bad pin on the left end. If it
can be cleaned up a bit then it may save you time on replacing the
header. Just depends on how bad the burn was. If not replacing the
header - make sure to reflow the solder on the bottom of the board.
Heat tends to crack solder joints."

So, I'm going to try and place an order with him soon. I think I'll
order from him diodes, fuses and the other parts, connectors, headers,
etc. On JM I'm going to try and put another fuse in to see if it
blows and then take it from there. I'm probably going to wait for
anything else until my friend gets out here this summer. I'm scared
to pull the board that I might cause more problems or do more damage
to it.

Also, on JD the black ring can move up and down quite a bit, and I
didn't know where on the rod I should tighten it. Close to one
optical sensor or the other, or in the middle or what. When I
tightened it close to the far optical sensor the crane lifted way up
and when I tightened it to the closer optical sensor the crane was way
down. So, I don't know. I also tried it by removing the sensors so
there is no black wheel there anymore thinking the magnet would be on
all the time then so I can test how strong the magnet is lifting the
ball, but that didn't work either. I'll make another video and upload
it in a little bit.

These are both my first pins, and I've learned a lot lately about
them. Only the JD did the reset and it only did it that one time. I
hardly played the JD, but I have played the JM more times because of
all the problems with the JD it wasn't much fun to play. I won't
worry about the reset for now and see if it still happens, etc.

Nobody has gotten back to me about the loose wire that I took a
picture of to see if it's suppose to be hanging loose or plugged into
something.

Thanks! ...Steve

Apota

unread,
May 4, 2009, 12:50:44 AM5/4/09
to
Well, I'm hoping these pictures and video will help figure out the
problem. I took a video showing what the arms doing, going all the
way to the right and then move to the left a little bit and then go
down. I made the slit in the wheel go to the optos when the arm
starts going down and not when it's at the far right. Also, I don't
know where on the rod the plastic wheel should go since you can move
it up and down towards each opto, or if it even matters. It seems to
raise the arm when it's closer to the back opto and lower the arm when
it's closer to the front opto. Thanks. Steve

Video of Arm issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI

Judge Dredd Pinball Arm location when wheel slit is at optos
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0367.jpg

Judge Dredd Pinball Arm when wheel slit is at optos side view.
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0366.jpg

Judge Dredd Pinball Arm when wheel slit is at optos front view.
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0365.jpg

> > pins your first new pins?- Hide quoted text -

martin

unread,
May 4, 2009, 2:30:21 AM5/4/09
to
On May 3, 9:50 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Well, I'm hoping these pictures and video will help figure out the
> problem.  I took a video showing what the arms doing, going all the
> way to the right and then move to the left a little bit and then go
> down.  I made the slit in the wheel go to the optos when the arm
> starts going down and not when it's at the far right.  Also, I don't
> know where on the rod the plastic wheel should go since you can move
> it up and down towards each opto, or if it even matters.  It seems to
> raise the arm when it's closer to the back opto and lower the arm when
> it's closer to the front opto.  Thanks.  Steve
>
> Video of Arm issue:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI
>
> Judge Dredd Pinball Arm location when wheel slit is at optoshttp://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0367.jpg
>
> Judge Dredd Pinball Arm when wheel slit is at optos side view.http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0366.jpg
>
> Judge Dredd Pinball Arm when wheel slit is at optos front view.http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0365.jpg

OK...

1) You need a new lever arm. That's the slotted thing that moves the
crane. Yours is wicked worn. That leaves way too much slop in the arm.
2) The crane is going over too far. It might be bent, or the lever arm
and crane hub may not be locked onto flats on the shaft that runs from
the crane to the wheel. You can adjust this by loosening the set
screws and rotating the shaft, but it is designed to be aligned
correctly if assembled with the correct parts.
3) Moving the wheel up and down will not affect the timing, but it
will raise and lower the arm.
4) Your wheel has a ramp that lifts the arm as it turns. Your timing
is still off. If you fix #2, it will be better.

Putting it all another way, the arm mechanism sweeps the arm from left
to right. It should sweep between the drop lane and the ring,
centering on the ball hole.

Then, the lifter cam, (the disk) has a ramp that makes the arm rise
and drop. When it drops, it also has an opto slot that tells the
machine to fire the magnet. You want that drop to happen just after
the crane starts its return from the deadworld - not before. Get that
timed right, and the magnet will have plenty of power.

As your machine is now, the wheel needs to be turned back a few
degrees to compensate for the misalignment of the crane sweep. It will
probably not drop the magnet in the drop lane because of the slop and
misalignment.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 4, 2009, 3:59:38 AM5/4/09
to
Hey again, I'm going to upload some photographs and some video's of
this whole assembly later on (in approximately 6 hours).

Tell me what you'd like to see and what would help.

PS. In your latest video (Video of Arm issue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI ) The ring is on upside
down, that's why the balls have stopped being picked up by the magnet
completely because the ball is hooked onto the ring now rather than
having a clear path to come off. I know it doesn't make sense but it
was originally on the right way. I'll show you in the pictures of mine
when my video camera is charged later.

Kind Regards
Danny

Apota

unread,
May 4, 2009, 4:04:55 AM5/4/09
to
So, this is the part I need to order? Is there anything else I need
to order so I can just order everything at the same time?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=A%2D16771

I tightened the set screw in the back of the pivot and hug assembly of
the arm lifter assembly after re-aligning the arm. I think it's
better now. Here is a picture of when it's all the way over to the
right. There is lots of play in it, so it was really hard to set it:

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0370.jpg

I took pictures of the shaft lifters, etc. so you can see if they are
bent, etc. They seem to be bent, but I'm not sure if that's what they
are supposed to look like or not, or if they need to be replaced.

Side View:

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0368.jpg

Front View:

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0369.jpg

It still seems to be dropping the arm at the wrong spot and not when
it's at the far right, but a little after that point. If I set the
slit in the wheel when the arm is all the say at the right will that
fix the arm drop problem? I think that's what you are telling me.

I haven't adjusted the wheel yet. I assume you mean the dead world
wheel? I will mess with that after I'm finished with the arm issues.

I guess I need to redo the slot in the wheel with the optos so it
starts teh magnet when the crane is all the way over to the right,
too. Thanks! ...Steve

> misalignment.- Hide quoted text -

Apota

unread,
May 4, 2009, 4:14:43 AM5/4/09
to
Well, I just turned the ring that way. The other way the ball would
roll away from the arm most of the time and couldn't be picked up.
Doesn't it pick up the ball so it wouldn't matter the slot being
pointed in the upward possition? Please look at this earlier video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFViruexfSg

On May 4, 12:59 am, DannyBoySmit <da...@octofuzz.co.uk> wrote:
> Hey again, I'm going to upload some photographs and some video's of
> this whole assembly later on (in approximately 6 hours).
>
> Tell me what you'd like to see and what would help.
>

> PS. In your latest video (Video of Arm issue:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA0yO12e_aI) The ring is on upside

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 4, 2009, 4:27:57 AM5/4/09
to
If you could take a picture from a birdseye view of the planet and
it's rings as you have it right this second. I can tell you if it's
the right way or not. But looking at early videos and newer videos, it
was the right way round in the first place in my opinion.

Upload a birdseye photo of the planet rings. If you can take the photo
at just the point that the rings stop turning for the ball to be
picked up, i can determine if the ring's are stopping too early or too
late also. (take the crane plastic off)

Danny

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 4, 2009, 4:37:45 AM5/4/09
to
Both of those arms should be parallel, they are definately bent
without a doubt. The one at the back (left hand side on the photo) is
bent considerably more than the other, but the other still is bent a
touch.

I personally would take the whole crane assembly away from the machine
(taking lots of photographs in the process) to straighten them rods
out and replace the lever which you are purchasing. Don't jump onto
doing that yet though, somebody with a little more experience may pop
in with a better suggestion!

Regards
Danny

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 4, 2009, 4:55:58 AM5/4/09
to
After watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EVK6P-78Ww


In this particular video:

1. The orange ring is the wrong way round (upside down)
2. The magnet is definitely weak
3. The crane is in a good enough position over the rings to pick up
the ball, but due to the back rod being so bent, it's unable to go all
the way over towards the drop point.

They are your problems.

The slop in the ring wouldn't cause any problem with a ball being
picked up if the magnet was strong enough, simple as that. The pickup
from the magnet doesn't look as clean but it's still strong enough to
flick/jump the ball out of the ring.


You need to check how much power is getting to that magnet!


DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 4, 2009, 5:00:23 AM5/4/09
to
Just wanted to claim the 69th post as it's my favourite number.

Apota

unread,
May 4, 2009, 5:52:44 AM5/4/09
to
I can just replace the rods with new ones, maybe I should replace the
black ring too just incase that's worn?

Shaft Pivot:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=02%2D4819

Shaft Lifter:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=02%2D4818

Cam Plastic:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=03%2D8998

I think the Opto bracket where the ball is dropped needs to be
replaced. It's all bent out of shape from hitting the side of the
pinball. I think they might be all miss aligned now. I'm not sure
though.

So, replace Shaft Lifter, Shaft Pilot, Cam Plastic and Lever Assy.?

Judge Dredd Dead World top view with balls:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0372.jpg

Judge Dredd Dead World top view without balls:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0371.jpg

Judge Dredd Arm final position front view:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0373.jpg

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 4, 2009, 6:20:06 AM5/4/09
to
The plastic which holds the optos for the balls to be dropped through
from the crane is a bit shitty designed, and if you look on 99percent
of JD's it is lobsided. Aslong as they get interrupted and it shows in
the switch test it'll be fine.


- Turn the planet ring back how it originally was, as it's upside down
in that picture

- Replace/Straighten the rods

- Replace the lever for the crane assy (even this may not be necessary
but the one you have got is ready for packing in any time)

- Find out why your magnet is weak and sort it out (sorry my knowledge
of electronics is limited so I don't know how to troubleshoot the
magnet apart from checking if it has enough power going to it)

I strongly believe, that will make it all work!

Apota

unread,
May 4, 2009, 5:44:41 PM5/4/09
to
OK, I'll reverse the ring and I'll redo the alignment on the slit in
the black ring for all the way over to the right, since that also
might be the problem of why it's not going down on the ball in the
right spot and then I'll test it again and do a new video and see how
it goes. Then if it's still not working I'll order the new parts. Do
you think it needs the new black ring too? What am I testing for on
the magnet, voltage, amps, etc.? What kind of voltage and amps should
it be? I will have to look, but I guess I just test the two wires
going to the magnet. I remember now I tested the optos for the ball
drop before and they were working, but since then it's been getting
caught on the side of the pinball and I think it's worse, but I'll
retest it. I'll let you know. Thanks.. Steve

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 5, 2009, 6:56:51 AM5/5/09
to
Unfortunately I don't know how to test the magnet. You might be able
to find someone who has tested it in this forum if you search, but I
couldn't find out.

Here is my ring, the angle of the photo should help you see which way
it goes round, especially if you look at the slot at the top of the
picture:

http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/wireformramps.jpg

Here are my light blue and magenta slingshot posts and some cards i
made to go in place of the instruction cards.

http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/slingshot1.jpg

http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/customcards.jpg

Apota

unread,
May 5, 2009, 7:07:52 AM5/5/09
to
OK, thanks. I had some other questions:

1) I had to replace the AA batteries, but it doesn't say which side
the possitive end goes. Do you know? It's not marked any place I can
see and it doesn't say in the manual. I didn't pay any attention to
how the old batteries where, because I assumed it was marked some
place.

2) Do you know about the loose cable I posted previously and if it's
supposed to be loose or plugged in someplace?

3) The power connector on my JM is missing the grounding connector.
It looks like it was broken off. Do you think that matters or is a
problem?

4) I'm having problems soldering. I just bought a 40watt soldering
iron, but it takes like an hour each time to melt the solder and it
melts into these little balls and keeps rolling away. I've spent like
5 or 6 hours trying to solder and I'm getting no place fast!

Thanks! ...STeve

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 5, 2009, 8:33:31 AM5/5/09
to
Read this section of the repair manual...section 3M talks about
battery replacement:

http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index3.htm#factory

Read this section of the repair manual...it may help you with
soldering issues:

http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm

If you are talking about the ground pin on the power cord plugging
into the wall, you should fix that...it probably isn't causing you any
problems right now but it is basically a safety hazard as you could
become the path to ground if a power short happens in the game.

I believe for a JM you can just replace the whole cord with a computer-
like cord - just remove the back cover on the game where the cord goes
in and you will see what I mean. Try to find the longest one you can
as the 6ft standard ones will suck as you will need the game right
next to the outlet. You can also put a new end on it too (like from
Home Depot) but IMO those look like crap.

As I stated before, I don't have my game so I can't comment on that
plug you are talking about.

Alex

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 5, 2009, 8:44:00 AM5/5/09
to
Sorry, I can't find which plug you mean in the posts. Did you link a
picture to it?

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 5, 2009, 8:51:50 AM5/5/09
to
The one you are wondering if it should be connected or not is what I
mean. Show me a picture and I'll check whether it's connected on mine.
There are a few loose connectors underneath the playfield I know that.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 5, 2009, 8:52:41 AM5/5/09
to

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 5, 2009, 9:05:46 AM5/5/09
to

Ah thanks mate, thought I was going mad for a minute then, I must be
tired!

That doesn't connect anywhere, think it jumps the wires together
that's all. It shouldn't be connected to anything =]

Regarding the soldering, I get my dad to do it. I've seen some real
awful soldering and a bad solder can quite often cause things just to
simply not work. I'm not too bad myself but I wouldn't personally
solder on the machine until I feel confident at it. Just practice on
some old motherboards/graphics cards etc from an unused computer. Be
careful with a soldering iron that you can't control the temperature
on, you'll most likely over heat switches etc and ruin them.

Joe Jet

unread,
May 5, 2009, 9:19:52 AM5/5/09
to
On May 5, 9:05 am, DannyBoySmit <da...@octofuzz.co.uk> wrote:
> On May 5, 1:52 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
> > He posted it from a different thread he had:
>
> >http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0343.jpghttp://i...

>
> Ah thanks mate, thought I was going mad for a minute then, I must be
> tired!
>
> That doesn't connect anywhere, think it jumps the wires together
> that's all. It shouldn't be connected to anything =]
>
> Regarding the soldering, I get my dad to do it. I've seen some real
> awful soldering and a bad solder can quite often cause things just to
> simply not work. I'm not too bad myself but I wouldn't personally
> solder on the machine until I feel confident at it. Just practice on
> some old motherboards/graphics cards etc from an unused computer. Be
> careful with a soldering iron that you can't control the temperature
> on, you'll most likely over heat switches etc and ruin them.

And dont attempt soldering with that 40 watt on the boards if you were
thinking of doing the header pins!!! get a 25 watt that has a max temp
at like 750 degrees like the weller iron sold at home depot... you
cant use a 40 watt especially if you are a newbie as you will get that
thing too hot and destroy your boards!! Follow the solder instructions
on the pinrepair site, you should not have problems if you have a
steady hand.

Apota

unread,
May 5, 2009, 3:57:57 PM5/5/09
to
Yes, I'm talking about the power cord that goes into the electrical
outlet in the wall. OK, that's good to know, I'll check it out and
see. I have plenty of extra ones to use.

Well, I'm having major problems with these new switches for the ramps
I got for the JM. They don't look exactly the same as the old ones
and the 3 stems that stick up are different distances a part then the
ones on the old switches. So I'm not sure if they are exactly the
same. How do I know for sure what stem to solder the diode too and
the other wires? I tried to do the same ones as the old switch, but
when I did the switch test I think it was always open and wouldn't
close. So, I'm not sure what the problem is. I'm getting a little
frustrated because it took me all night to do the soldering..
Thanks! ...Steve

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 5, 2009, 4:46:07 PM5/5/09
to
I'd just not solder anything until you know it's the right part, and
where to solder it first. You're risking messing up the electronics
completely by soldering wires to the wrong places and then turning the
machine on.

I'm no expert so that's the only advice I can give you on the
electronics side of things!

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 5, 2009, 4:52:54 PM5/5/09
to
there should be tiny markings on one side of the microswitch marked
"NC" "NO" "C"...just move the wires over to the same marking on the
new switches. are you sure you put the diode on with the correct
polarity and not 180 deg out (they have a band on one end)?

Apota

unread,
May 6, 2009, 11:33:29 PM5/6/09
to
OK, I took pictures of the electrical cord, etc. with the JM. So, I
just remove the bolts on the metal plate on the back and then I can
see how to replace the cord with a regular PC power cord?

JM Pinball broken power connector
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0376.jpg

JM Pinball Power Box External
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0377.jpg

JM Pinball Power Box Inside
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0378.jpg

It looks like the power lead on the batteries always goes to the right
or up. So, that was really helpful.

I guess I need to go to Radio Shack and get new solder then and maybe
a new 25 wattt soldering iron instead of the 45 watt one I just
purchased? I checked all the wires and diodes and it looks like they
are connected right. The one switch with the wires connected is
always closed but it won't open unless I remove the bottom wire and
then it closes. So, maybe because I kept the soldering iron on the
diode and the wires on the switch for hours at a time it ruined them?
The soldering iron was really hot but it would take like 45 minutes
holding the solder on the iron for it to melt, so maybe there is
something wrong with the type of solder I got? So, maybe I should get
a new 25 watt soldering iron, and new solder at Radio Shack and start
all over with new switches and diodes? Is it possible I did damage to
the PCB in the game from having the soldering iron on the switch wires
for such a long period of time? I have lots of pictures of the
switches and wires. Unfortunetately, I don't remember what wire goes
where on the one switch on the right ramp. I took a picture so I
would remember, but I can't tell from the picture I took. Does it
really matter what wire goes where since it's just a switch?

JM Pinball Right Ramp Switch the original one:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0334-1.jpg

JM Pinball Right Ramp Switch the new one I installed:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0375.jpg

JM Pinball Left Ramp Switch Originally installed:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0332.jpg
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0349-1.jpg

JM Pinball Left Ramp Switch I mounted the new switch, but haven't un-
soldered and removed the cables from the old switch, so they are both
here:
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0374.jpg

Thanks, Steve....


On May 5, 5:33 am, linn...@verizon.net wrote:

Apota

unread,
May 6, 2009, 11:35:27 PM5/6/09
to
OK, I'll leave it then. Thanks for checking on the wires for me. I
really do appreciate it!! ..Steve

On May 5, 6:05 am, DannyBoySmit <da...@octofuzz.co.uk> wrote:
> On May 5, 1:52 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
> > He posted it from a different thread he had:
>

> >http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww273/Apota4U/DSCN0343.jpghttp://i...

Apota

unread,
May 6, 2009, 11:37:53 PM5/6/09
to
Well, right now I just want to solder the diodes onto the switches and
the wires on the switches.. I'm not going to do the power board for
now.. Thanks.. Steve

> steady hand.- Hide quoted text -

Apota

unread,
May 6, 2009, 11:43:16 PM5/6/09
to
Yeah, I can see that now. I'm sure the diode is right, but the wires
I think are right I'm comparing them to the markings of the wires on
the other ramp. So, I'm guessing the solid white goes on the bottom
and the solid green goes in the middle. The only thing I can think is
the solder isn't good or I burned the switch, diode, or PCB on the
pinball. I don't know now. I'll get new solder, soldering iron,
diodes and swtiches and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks.. Steve

On May 5, 1:52 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:

Apota

unread,
May 7, 2009, 12:55:59 AM5/7/09
to
OK, I reversed the dead world wheel again. I re-adjusted the slit in
the black wheel so it's perfect now, and it's adjusted to be at the
opto sensors when the arm is all the way to the right, and I adjusted
the arm height so when it lowers it's just a little above the ball.
It still has the problem with the ball falling before the arm gets to
the ball now that I reversed the dead world wheel. I did a video and
it's uploading now. I'll post the link when it's done. I guess all I
can do now is order all the new parts for the arm, the new rods, and
all the other stuff that I previously posted about. Thanks! ..Steve

On May 1, 9:01 pm, martin <martin.reyno...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 1, 8:11 pm, Apota <apot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Well, I turned the slotted hole plastic ring the other way around and
> > it makes a huge difference.  The ball stays in place now.  So, it
> > looks like it was upside down before.  I also found where the loose
> > screw came from.  It belonged to the slotted hole plastic ring.  So,
> > now I know someone was messing with it before and must have put it
> > upside down when they replaced it.  I re-adjusted the interrupter ring
> > so it's just about as perfect as you can get it.  I also re-adjusted
> > the hight of the arm and tried it lower and higher, etc. and I think
> > it's pretty good right now.  It's still not working though.  I think
> > the problem is a weak magnet.  It just can't pick up the ball.  I'm
> > going to shoot another video in a little bit, but I'm 100% possitive
> > it's either a weak magnet or the magnet isn't staying on long enough.
> > So, how do you fix an issue like that?  Do you replace the magnet?  Is
> > there an adjustment somewhere? Thanks!  ...Steve
>
> > On May 1, 5:12 pm, linn...@verizon.net wrote:
>
> > > I don't think he has a weak magnet...here are some quotes from Martin
> > > (who probably knows as much as anybody about the crane/deadworld
> > > function) in older discussions on this topic:
>
> > > "And the timing - the crane optos need to trigger the magnet after
> > > the
> > > crane has just started moving back towards the exit. Otherwise, it
> > > cuts off too early and looks weak. It should be able to snap the ball
> > > in from about 3/16" away when centered."
>
> > > "The crane doesn't have a whole lot of power, nor does it stay on for
> > > very long. So it needs to be tuned just right. The drop height and
> > > crane optos are critical settings, but once set right it should work
> > > fine."
>
> Looks like you have gearbox slop. It is super annoying, because the
> ball position varies depending on how many balls are in the ring.
>
> The magnet is naturally weak, unless it is right on top of the ball.
> You will need to adjust the arm timing so that the magnet turns on
> when the arm is on the way back.
>
> http://iobium.com/tuning_judge_dredd_for_the_locki.htm
>
> Under problem #3, how to adjust the magnet timing
>
> Under problem #5, a movie of the whole thing working. Note that the
> last ball works best. This machine has a really sloppy ring.- Hide quoted text -

martin

unread,
May 7, 2009, 1:06:45 AM5/7/09
to
> > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

You are not quite there yet.

The arm takes a long time to slow down and reverse travel. So the opto
slot needs to engage just after the arm starts its return journey.

Arm moves all the way to the right
Arm reaches the "top dead center" and stops moving for a moment
Arm starts moving back
Magnet drops and opto fires.

If you have it any earlier thatn this, it will drop the ball too
early.
Also, if your arm motor is dirty it will be slow, then you will have
the same problem. But yours looked OK.

Cleaning it is a dirty job.

Apota

unread,
May 7, 2009, 1:35:50 AM5/7/09
to
OK, sorry, I'll re-adjust it again, but that won't make any difference
for the problem of the ball falling off the dead world before the arm
can even pick it up. Why would it be doing that? Is it supposed to
do that? Well, it won't do it when the new ring is here with just
holes there. Maybe I should tape up the ends of the slots so it's
like a hole and see if it works to simulate the mod? Here is the new
video, at this point it's still be processed and isn't available yet,
but it should be in a few... Steve

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMQFx4vIaCo

> Cleaning it is a dirty job.- Hide quoted text -

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 7, 2009, 4:51:44 AM5/7/09
to
That is the strangest thing ever, the ball rolling off like that...
because the ring is the correct way round..

is your playing field level?? and is the orange planet ring level
(horizontally)?? all i can think of is the thick rod with holds and
spins the planet is bent?? causing the balls to roll off?

Apota

unread,
May 7, 2009, 5:09:56 AM5/7/09
to
As far as I knew they were supposed to roll off if the arm can't pick
them up. I have no idea how it's supposed to work that's why I'm
posting here. How could the play field be level, it has to be at a
downward slope so the balls roll down towards the bottom of the
playfield. How could the dead world be level if the playfield isn't
level? Is the playfield and the dead world supposed to be at a
certain angle? Can you do ajustments to the Dead World angle? I
really don't know anything about it. I don't know if the rod is bent
or not. I can try to look and see. Thanks.. Steve

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 7, 2009, 6:20:08 AM5/7/09
to
i said level horizontally... pinball machines should be on a vertical
slope from front to back, but not a horizontal slope (from left to
right) if the machine or the ring is sloping to the left, this could
cause the balls to be rolling off prematurely!!The balls shouldn't
roll off until the ring goes a little further round.

lin...@verizon.net

unread,
May 7, 2009, 6:55:58 AM5/7/09
to
As I stated before, I thought your ring was upside down before and
still do given the ball moves when it stops. Not long after you
originially flipped it, I believe you were able to make ring
adjustments such that the ball parks at the correct location for the
crane to pick it up - correct? (basically the crane when it comes down
will be right over the ball). I think at that point you were only a
few adjustments (per Martin) of when the magnet turned on/off from
getting it right. This is nothing against Danny so you will just have
to make your own determination of what you need to do (I could be
wrong)...

I will say maybe you just need to step back a little from this and
just in your mind think about all the steps which have to happen to
make this work right...(just a very simplistic example - deadworld has
to park a non-moving ball at the correct spot for the crane to pick it
up, the crane has to move right over the ball and pick it up,
etc...you get the point try to isolate what mid-step really isn't
working and then make the adjustment).

I assume you read the repair manual section about basic soldering? You
were definitely doing something wrong if the iron was really hot and
it took hours to get the solder to melt...yes you probably damaged the
diode and switch if you were heating them that long. As you probably
read in the guide, you may want to consider buying a better soldering
iron (variable temperature) before you plunk another $15+ down for a
25W cheap-o from Radio Shack again. I can tell you having the right
tools makes all the difference - you can Google here at RGP for some
iron buying suggestions.

Yes once you take that plate off the back of the game where the power
cord goes in you will see that this end of the plug looks just like
the end which is used on a computer power cord.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 7, 2009, 7:47:34 AM5/7/09
to
His ring, is now the correct way round. 100%.

the reason the ball isn't in the correct position to be picked up is
because the crane is so far bent back its out of position for pickups.

i may be wrong there, but the ring isn't on the wrong way round. mine
is on that way round and functions perfectly. the longer side of the
slot should be at the bottom when its in position for pickup.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 7, 2009, 7:50:06 AM5/7/09
to
you just have to look on the pictures of the JD on IPDB, and the
pictures of all the Judge's on ebay!

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 7, 2009, 8:22:41 AM5/7/09
to
check these pictures just to make sure your ring is on this way
round...

http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg
http://www.dannyjcollins.co.uk/judgedredd/planet1.jpg


The only reason that the ball will be rolling off early is the ring is
leaning to the left like this / rather than ---. Or the magnet is
pulling them across the slot.

Your crane is most likely in the completely wrong position due to the
rod being so bent.

But yeah, I agree that you need to step back and think of it
methodically. If your ring is on the correct way round and isn't
leaning to the left causing gravity to naturally bring the ball off
too early. Then it could be the crane magnet causing them to roll
off.

Try deactivating the magnet, unplug it or move it somewhere.. then run
the test with the balls and see if they roll off still at that point.

DannyBoySmit

unread,
May 7, 2009, 8:25:10 AM5/7/09
to

Apota

unread,
May 8, 2009, 1:25:50 AM5/8/09
to
Well, I think I adjusted it how you told me too, but that created a
problem where the arm now drops just to the left of the ball, so it's
barely touching the ball now and can't pick it up most of the time. I
have to lower the arm too low to even get it to touch the ball now and
then it trys to drop lower below the height of the ball after it
already trys to pick it up. Maybe it's doing this becase of the bent
rods? I don't understand 100% how it works, so I don't know.

It also seems the world doesn't always stop at the same spot and
sometimes I think it stops a little too far. I don't know if there is
a way to fix the world or how hard it is. I think you said I need to
replace some gears or something? I think you said there is no way to
adjust for the play in the world?

I think the best thing to do at this point is order all the new parts
that are warn or broken, the 2 new rods, that metal thing with the
slit in the middle and a new black plastic circle thing that has the
slit in it, just incase it's too warn. So, I'll let you know when I
get them and install them and see what happens and take it from
there. Thanks! ...Steve

> Cleaning it is a dirty job.- Hide quoted text -

Apota

unread,
May 8, 2009, 1:29:47 AM5/8/09
to
Well, I tried using a level on top of the world but it seems to be
tilting a little bit the oppoisite way that would prevent it from
falling off. Anyway, I don't think it really matters anyways, because
I want to get it working so I can get the Dead World Lock Mod, and
with the mod there is a circle hole there and not a slot hole there.
So, I reversed it again how it was before so I can simulate it have
the circle holes there and try to get it working that way and then I
think I can be safe ordering the Mod. Thanks.. Steve
It is loading more messages.
0 new messages