thanks,
Bob
open winding in the coil? Check for continuity between the coil and the
driver board. Also, if you have a logic probe, (available from radio shack
$15 bucks) place it on the transistor that fires the coil and drop a ball in
the upkicker.. If you get a pulse at the transistor and it still doesn't
fire the coil, you have a wiring problem or it is an open coil.
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Steve:
I can't believe how many times I checked it wrong but the playfield
mounted transistor seems to be fried. I'm kicking myself for wasting
a weekend on it. I must have been checking the wrong lead on the
collector. Is there any way to bypass it? I ordered some new
transistors (previous owner used a 2n 3792???) from Mouser NTE 180 but
I'd like to bypass it if I could.
Thanks for your help, I usually do OK but I think I needed to walk
away from this one for a while. Sometimes you get so anxious you
overlook the obvious.
Bob
I know that Mouser has them.
"Bob Shingledecker" <bsh...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:b5872526.0108...@posting.google.com...
Steve:
Me again. It's not the transistor. I changed it with one from my HH
and it did not change anything. The ball rolls to the gate, gate
releases, goes to kicker switch, waits a second and unlatches the
relay for the lower playfield. I removed the lower playfield and
checked the coil with a transformer and it fires just fine. Any
ideas?
Bob
The solution for me after blowing heaps was
1. A new coil (again)
2. Replace the transistor on the playfield with a 2n5859 - 15 amp (replacing
the 2n5875- 10amp)
3. Replace q15 on the driver board
4. Fit the pullup resistor as per
http://www.marvin3m.com/sys80/index1.htm#pullup
Haven't blown one in six months - used to go all the time
Tony
Bob Shingledecker <bsh...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:b5872526.01081...@posting.google.com...
Tony:
Could be. The game was fine until I lifted the playfield about six
months ago to change some bulbs. Put it back down and the upkicker
and a few other coils locked on (imagine that on a system 80!).Had to
send in the MPU for repair. THe coil is new, I'll check/replace the
transistors. When I get the time I'm going to post my trials with
this machine. I have ten pins (4 system 80) and this one has been
really difficult.
Bob
Bob
not to nitpick you, but don't you mean 2N5879, not 2N5859? I don't know if
there is a difference... 2N5879s worked for me in my BH playfield
transistors...
Dan
good luck!
On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:23:30 GMT, Steve Charland <ccha...@home.com>
wrote:
John :-#)#
On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 14:23:30 GMT, Steve Charland <ccha...@home.com>
wrote:
>Hi Bob,
(Please post followups or tech enquires to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
mailto:j...@flippers.com, web page http://www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
--
Cliffy
'54 Keeney Sportsman Deluxe, '82 Tron U/R, '83 (dead) Zaccaria Pinball
Champ
'87 F-14 Tomcat, '90 Funhouse, '93 Creature
http://members.home.net/crinear/ramps/ramps.html
Well, I checked out a bunch of stuff and I'm still having problems.
The original replacement coil was not working correctly. After it
fried the last time I ordered a replacement #19300. Tried the pop
bumper fix and it wouldn't have it so I used an old gottlieb coil and
soldered in a diode for the time being.
I can get it to fire with a jumper from ground to the leg on the
transistor (so I know the coil is OK). I can get the gate to fire
with ground and the metal tab on Q13. I can not get the kicker to
fire with ground and the metal tab to Q15. I switched driver boards
and got the kicker to fire one time and now it won't do anything
again.
Am I frying chip Z4 on my driver boards? How do I check with a scope?
I get indication on Q3 for the ball gate when the ball gate switch is
closed (scoping green/ yellow wire)but nothing on Q5 (brown/ red) when
that switch is closed.
thanks in advance,
Bob
Steve
System 80, not just a job, it's an adventure
Exactly right. It was a connector issue. When I was testing for continuity I
wanted to ensure that I had it at the driver board so I clipped a lead
onto the switch then I lowered the two playfields. My next step was to
open the head and check for continuity at the board itself ( with the connector
in place I checked the trace on the driver board). I had a good connection
so I closed everthing up and still couldn't get it to fire.
I then lifted the playfields and checked for a signal with my scope and
found that I had one at the gate but not the kicker so I went back to the
backbox again. When I checked for the signal with the backbox open I had
it. I dropped a ball on the lower playfield and it kicked it up. Closed
everything back up and it wouldn't work again.
What I found was good continuity when the backbox door was open. When I
closed it the bottom part of the wire harness was rubbing along the bottom
of the backbox and causing the connector to bow away from the edge of the
driver board. Who woulda thunk it?
I think it's a great example of a connector issue on a Gottlieb pin of
that era. It goes to show you that a problem can be so simple it is very
difficult to be able to troubleshoot. I hope this info will be helpful to
someone else it was a good learning experience for me. Black Hole is proably
more prone to connector issues that HH because the boards are mounted to the
door. I'm going to look for the post someone had up about connector part
numbers and change all my connectors.
Thanks to everyone for all their help. Now I need to get the sound board
repaired and I should be in good shape. Somehow during all of this the speech
chip went bad. I have no speech, some missing sounds and I noticed the
speech chip gets very hot so I'm not using any sound
Bob
It hurts me to fix the hard problems. =0)