Tech: Cyclone (11b) - Transistors and SR9 burning up
OTTOgd
replace Q48 as well but it tests okay.
I also replaced the resistors: R141-R144 (R143 is visibly burnt) as
well as R72, R73, R77, R78 and capacitors C51, C52, C55, C56 (yellow).
I don't receive any errors when I power up and it goes right into
attract but these components fail immediately. Thoughts and
suggestions?
Thanks for looking.
Kev
kbliznick
> This is the 2nd time I've replaced SR9, Q43, Q44, and Q49. I had to
> replace Q48 as well but it tests okay.
>
> I also replaced the resistors: R141-R144 (R143 is visibly burnt) as
> well as R72, R73, R77, R78 and capacitors C51, C52, C55, C56 (yellow).
>
>
> I don't receive any errors when I power up and it goes right into
> attract but these components fail immediately. Thoughts and
> suggestions?
>
> Thanks for looking.
>
> Kev
Look at the playfield switches and find out which ones are shorted to
the lamps or to the solenoids. You can narrow it down the the rows/
columns that are burning up.
TheKorn
news:619daf1a-66dc-49cd...@r20g2000yqd.googlegroups.com:
We asked a hundred techs, "what would immediately burn up C51, C52, Q43, and Q44
on a system 11 game. Top five answers on the board. Three answers left, it's
your chance to steal!"
'a tomato!' 'BSMT2000 failure!' 'bad DMD board!' 'the chinese!'
"...I need an answer."
'I'm going to disregard my dipsh*t family and go with a short in the switch
matrix.'
"Three answers left on the board, let me see SHORT IN THE SWITCH MATRIX!!"
*DING DING DING DING DING DING DING!!*
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the web or
on DVD?
TheKorn
@r27g2000prr.googlegroups.com:
> Look at the playfield switches and find out which ones are shorted to
> the lamps or to the solenoids. You can narrow it down the the rows/
> columns that are burning up.
I'd start by pulling 1P8, and seeing what voltage shows up on those pins; would at
least give me an idea what I'm looking for. (Nothing should show up.)
firepower
Q44... that's pin 1J8-3 - and is Switch Matrix Col 3. As both of those
get cooked, I'd start there.
Look in your manual for the switches in whatever column, and trace the
Green/Orange wire under the playfield and you should find a short.
Sounds like a coil or GI power is jacked into the switch matrix
somewhere. BTW Q49=col2 Q44=col3 Q42=col 7
To expand on what TheKorn said, measure 1P8 (female green wires plug)
with respect to a ground point. Remove both switch matrix plugs, the
white wires at 1P10 and Green at 1P8. Leave the game on and at attract
mode. Whichever pins have a voltage are suspects.
Don't plug the switch matrix right back into a repaired board! Hunt for
that fault, until you get no voltage readings on those female playfield
connectors.
-Richard
OTTOgd
Darnit, I read the schematics incorrectly and was chasing Q49 switches
but I did notice the drop target opto board has taken some heat, which
also falls under Q44 - Drop Target (center) 18:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_GLKle0KDOhk/TdwozJiwivI/AAAAAAAAAWE/v5ghA18McOE/s912/100_8792.JPG
I'll take a better look at those wires and try testing the voltages.
BRB
Kev
OTTOgd
I don't see where other power might be getting in aside from the opto
board. If the resistors are as toasty as they look, could it be the
70vdc trouble-maker?
Kev
firepower
Can't see why 70v DC would be sourced there.
My guess is you're still looking for something shorting into that
Green/Orange wire under the playfield. Are you sure a switch isn't
mashed into a coil or flasher lug?
-Richard
TheKorn
@c41g2000yqm.googlegroups.com:
> Yep, I'm reading 70vdc from connector pin 1J8-3/Q44.
Well, that's your huckleberry. Now you just need to find WHY you're seeing that in
there. That'll definitely fry a switch matrix on the double-quick!
> I don't see where other power might be getting in aside from the opto
> board. If the resistors are as toasty as they look, could it be the
> 70vdc trouble-maker?
70VDC is most likely flipper voltage! This game doesn't have stacked EOS switches
under the playfield, does it? (Or a secondary EOS switch on the cabinet?)
If it doesn't have either one of those (i.e. this is a game with opto couplers),
then I'd unsolder the 4N25s from your interconnect board, and see if the voltage
disappears. I've NEVER heard of a 4N25 failing where it connected the monitored
voltage to the output, but since both those voltages go into those chips it's
possible on SOME level.
firepower
switch matrix for both flippers. -Richard
OTTOgd
solder the red/white lane change to the left flipper. Geez.
The coil EOS switches and wires are a mess. I'll get some new ones and
clean this up. I'm glad this 'mystery' is finally solved. Now back to
the board work, darnit.
Thanks a lot guys!
Kev
firepower
EOS by accident and blow the switch matrix. But I never, ever expected
to see what's in that picture. And it's cable tied nice and neat, too. :D
-Richard
OTTOgd
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_GLKle0KDOhk/TdxrwYZdFSI/AAAAAAAAAWs/b-lkP1U4iBA/s800/100_8796.JPG
Kev
On May 24, 10:30 pm, firepower <harvey_r@_ANTI_SPAM_tiscali.co.uk>
wrote:
> Glad you found it. I know the lane change switch can get shorted to the
> EOS by accident and blow the switch matrix. But I never, ever expected
> to see what's in that picture. And it's cable tied nice and neat, too. :D
>
> -Richard
>
> On 25/05/2011 02:49, OTTOgd wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Well, I found the huckleberry. For some reason, someone decided to
> > solder the red/white lane change to the left flipper. Geez.
>
> >https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_GLKle0KDOhk/TdxeVu_fNSI/AAAAAAAAAW...
The...@thekorn.net
wrote:
> What he said.. for EOS did you mean Lane Change? That's on Col8 of the
> switch matrix for both flippers. -Richard
Yup! Brain thought lane change, meant lane change, typed EOS.
Whoops.
The...@thekorn.net
> Well, I found the huckleberry. For some reason, someone decided to
> solder the red/white lane change to the left flipper. Geez.
>
>
> The coil EOS switches and wires are a mess. I'll get some new ones and
> clean this up. I'm glad this 'mystery' is finally solved. Now back to
> the board work, darnit.
Yup, that'll definitely cause a crispy switch matrix in no time!
Good catch!
The...@thekorn.net
> solder the red/white lane change to the left flipper. Geez.
>
>
> The coil EOS switches and wires are a mess. I'll get some new ones and
> clean this up. I'm glad this 'mystery' is finally solved. Now back to
> the board work, darnit.
Also, what's that chicanery going from the left flipper lane change
switch to the right flipper lane change switch? WTF??
Chris Hibler
wrote:
Damn. It's a wonder nothing popped sooner.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
OTTOgd
> --
Nothing popped because, sadly, I have yet to play game on this pin ...
but I'm getting close, thanks to you guys!
Kev
firepower
>
> Also, what's that chicanery going from the left flipper lane change
> switch to the right flipper lane change switch? WTF??
Both are in Col8 on that game. Soooo one wire the same on both switches
makes sense, provided only one of the wires is common.
Man that game was hacked around, Kev. Makes me want to hurl when I see
a WMS Sys 11 treated so badly. Best wishes on getting your game fixed up
and running so all your hard work pays off, I think the patient is
feeling better already!
-Richard
OTTOgd
is gapped too closely but otherwise it plays great.
Thanks for all your help guys! RGP is the best.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ty1Ydp0yUGM
Kev