MM pf swap done: No kings and random trough error help?

[Rob]

I finally have my MM complete with the new pf. I have a trough error
that comes up at times and does not allow the game to start. If I
turn it on and off it usually corrects the problem. The 12V power is
there, the opto board is working and all the connectors should be in
the right place. I do not know if it is a wiring issue since I did
not originally strip all the parts off the pf. I think it might have
to do with the pop bumper wiring which I was not sure which wire went
to which pop bumper?

When playing the game everything seems to be working fine except for
the kings which do not light up and taunt you? The castle seems to be
working fine? I have not played MM in a long time so I do not
remember what starts the kings sequence to destroy the castle.

Any ideas or help on either issue would be great. It has been years
since I have played my MM.

Thanks,
Rob

[FLYING HIGH DA900EX]

Double check your connectors. As you can see that's why it's important
to mark everything and take pictures. The best way is install the
light string, plug it in and check it, do your switches and plug them
in, coils the same way. That's what HEP does. that way when you
install the playfield it works. E

[Taylor-VA]

Pictures are over rated imho. : )
Maybe for upper playfield but under playfield is generally pretty
straightforward.
I also think that it is properly reinstalled in the following order;
switch, GI, coil/flasher. I think that is how Chris does it but can't
remember.
I have done GI first before but that is because it seemed the most
intimidating but with the memory of the harness there really is not
too much to mess up.

Test the optos in switch test. Might just have a bad opto or
resistor.
I do agree that you should check the connectors for the king lamps for
them all to be out sounds like the board is not in.
Have you done a complete lamp test?

[Lloyd Olson]

To start narrowing it down.. Go into switch edge test and hit every switch
in the game. See if the right one reports on the DMD. Then see where you are
at. Mixed up connectors, unsed ones now used, shorts, etc. etc. could be
your problem. Look for any switch dragging or stuck closed too. LTG :)

"Rob" <rvh...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:b3d05f3f-16c6-49e6...@g7g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...

[Rob]

All the connectors are good, all the lamps work. Ball trough optos
work in swx test. I still get an error saying to check the ball
trough, connectors, and 12V power which are all fine. If I go into
test or turn the game on an off it will not bring the trough error up
and I can play a game.

The only optos not working are the ones just before the ball would
roll on the drawbrige. Those optos should not trigger an opto error
for the ball trough. I would have to remove a fair amount of parts
to get to the optos and replace them. That should be why the kings
are not responding. The optos work when you enter the castle. I
already replaced the ball trough from a working game to see if it made
a difference which it does not.

Thanks for the help,
Rob

[Taylor-VA]

what is the switch #. maybe it means the trough in front of the
castle. I don't own MM but maybe if those optos are swapped it is
giving you the problem.

[Rob]

> giving you the problem.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I replaced the opto transmitter for the moat entrance and now it
works. I still have one of the pop bumpers not working? On one of
the other two pop bumpers that are working the bulb is not? I was not
sure of the wiring on the pop bumpers from my old pf since I did not
remove the parts. The pop bumper that is not working is in the same
row on the matrix chart as one of the ball trough optos so maybe the
jet bumper not working and the trough error on start up are the result
of the incorrect wiring on the stapled leads for the pop bumpers. I
hate to replace the transistor that drives the pop bumper. I could
also change the pop bumper leaf spring which is closed in the swx
test.

Rob

[Taylor-VA]

> row onthe matrixchart as one of the ball trough optos so maybe the

> jet bumper not working and the trough error on start up are the result
> of the incorrect wiring on the stapled leads for the pop bumpers.  I
> hate to replace the transistor that drives the pop bumper.  I could
> also change the pop bumper leaf spring which is closed in the swx
> test.
>
> Rob

i would hunt out a pic of the pop bumper wiring. that is one area I
def take pics of. good luck.

[Rob]

> def take pics of. good luck.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

I never was able to take pics since I did not remove the pop bumpers
from the pf. I wish the manual showed which color wires go to the
staple leads. I had 3 pop bumpers and 12 wires that were in pairs of
two I soldered 2 pairs on each of the two staple leads for each of
the three popbumpers. Two of the three pop bumper lites work. The
one that is not working must not have power to it since the bulb is
not the prob. I will check that next.

Thanks,
Rob

[FLYING HIGH DA900EX]

If you short a pop bumper coil you can blow the opto board and this
will give you the trough error. don't ask how I know!!! Usually it
takes the CPU sw matrix, but it could just hit the opto board. I'd cut
the leads to the bad coil, swap the opto board and test it. E

[Rob]

On Mar 13, 7:21 pm, FLYING HIGH DA900EX <falcon200...@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

I have everything finally working, I replaced a bad opto, found a
short on a ramp swx and pop bumper leaf switch, and everything else is
working. I now have a slam tilt problem that happens once in a while,
usually during multiball. I checked all the switches in test mode and
found one of the bank switches also comes up as trough eject switch on
the DMD when testing the sitches individually. I had soldered the
wires the same from the old switch which was still attached to the
harness. The diode is not reversed and it is a new switch so it is
either wired wrong or the wrong connector is on the driver board. MM
has a couple of connectors on the driver board that are keyed the same
with the same color wires and are close together. I guess I need to
move the connectors around or resolder the wires on the bank switch
which is bringing up the trough as well in switch test.

Thanks,
Rob

[Taylor-VA]

I would manually test the switches and see if one is causing the slam
tilt.
look for the corresponding row/column on the matrix and check the
wiring on those switches.
you may have a crossed wire which could be causing this.

Make sure the soldered ends of the leaf switches are not making making
contact via solder or just proximity.

Had this issue on a WCS and had a switch with some globbed on solder
causing the issue.

[Lloyd Olson]

When you have a switch matrix issue, switch wired wrong, diode reversed, a
short to wiring or to the switch lugs, it can be anywhere in the game. Give
all of the switches a quick look see, take only a few minutes. Could save
you a lot of grief. LTG :)

"Rob" <rvh...@aol.com> wrote in message

news:0aeab762-5d8b-4ef4...@g11g2000yqe.googlegroups.com...

[Rob]

I found the problem, the diodes on my bank targets were reversed
compared to the old ones. When I soldered in the new ones I did not
look to see where the diode band was. My game is 100% working now.
The only problem now is the moat kickout shoots the ball in between
the flippers almost always without any chance of saving the ball.

Thanks to everyone for your help and ideas. My problems were fairly
simple while not taking everything apart initially made it more
difficult. The worst part was putting the pf back into the cabinet
with all the weight and little room to line up the cab etc.,