Tech: Pop bumper light idea

[beaver]

Someone has probably thought of this before, but I figure I'd put this
out anyway.

One of the PITA aspects of rebuilding a pop bumper is what to do with
the light leads. You end up having to reach down into a maze of wires
and mechanisms with your staple gun and soldering iron to access
these. Instead, I figured you could use a screw to hold and connect
to the lead:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album08/pinball/tz.htm#pop

Edward Cheung CARGPB26

[Dw...@excite.com]

Popbumpers are THE last things I remove, and THE very first things I
reassemble just because it's easiest to restaple the leads when
there's nothing else on the bottom side of that playfield to get in
the way. Even after I've sanded the bottom, I can still locate the
staple holes along with the many pictures I've taken while
disassembling in order to properly relocate the leads.
Hopefully they won't fail to the point of having to remove and rebuild
them while on a fully populated field.
You did say rebuild, too. I see that now.
Your method looks to be a viable option to removing all the
surrounding equipment for stapler clearance.
Keep up the good work, Ed.

-Dwoz

[mytimac]

Nice idea, wish I had seen that when I was taking apart my WCS. Man I
hate those things.
I am working on an EATPM right now and those are a breeze to work on
compared to the newer Bally. Why didn't they stick to this design? So
much easier to work on. Nice modular design.

[cody chunn]

I guess I never had too much trouble soldering (what's a staple gun? :0) ).

However, those old bayonett sockets under inserts that have a huge glob of
solder on them where the common wire passes? I leave them screwed and
soldered and bend-break the socket, leaving the screw tab. Then I screw the
new socket right over that puppy. Of course, this is for a onesy twosey
replacement. If I were doing a whole playfield swap I would [probably] do it
"right".

:0)

--
-cody
CARGPB4

"beaver" <e...@edcheung.com> wrote in message
news:fa8bf974-6e84-4fc4...@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com...

[seymour...@excite.com]

That would definitely work but I figure just replace as original, in all
probability I'm not going to have to replace it again after it's
completely rebuilt, so I just go original. I usually pull one side of
the staple and push it back in after the new socket is in place.

I have used the hex screw+washer for lots of other things on PF's
though, usually to add extra stability to mechs.

-scott CARGPB#29