Acrylic Enamel Touchup and best brush on clear coat cover up.
baraka
Need some expertise advice here. Finished up touching up a playfield
with some acrylic enamel paint which I got from Walmart. Nice job if I
must say myself. It took hours. The black acrylic enamel paint comes
off the plastic arrows after waxing with carnauba wax. Before I brush
coat this acrylic enamel paint I figured I'd ask you all for some of
your success stories on what product to use to cover up the artwork
without bleeding so it will never come off.
I've read the posts and "Marvin's site". I see that varathane seems to
be one of the favorites. I'm wondering if someone could share their
story on what they used to get a nice clear, non-smudging seal by
brushing on varathane or urethane. Also, what type of paint did you
use (water based acrylic, enamel acrylic, sharpies), etc...
Thanks.....
John
Chris Munson
I have done a LOT of playfield restoration with repaint and clearcoat - in
fact, I am in the middle of a Pharaoh PF repaint right now (19 hours so far).
The fact of the matter IS that MOST paints are going to "wipe right off" if you
don't seal them; I see you found that out...;>).
While there are a number of "urethane sealers" on the market, the easiest
(as far as spray can stuff is concerned) is the water-based Varathane that most
people talk about. You CAN try and "spot seal" - I did this on a customer's
E*BD (where I had done some repaint on the inlanes), but the trick here is not
to "tape off" and create an area of specific coating - you kind of need to
create a large periphery and then let the spray hit the main spot, and
"overflow" to surrounding areas. Very difficult to explain, but spot touching
DOES work if done right - 4 years later, his inlanes are still holding up with
no wear at all, and no sign of varathane coat separation.
There are also "brush" urethanes - I did some spot touching on a few places
on my Firepower - it held up for some time but then began to pull away. I would
recommend this LESS, spraying is still the best methodology by far.
On to paints. Man, I have been doing this Pharaoh PF rework and trying to
write a restoration document, and there is SO much to talk about. Personally, I
choose to use a number of paints which are made specifically for model railroad
painting, though I have used Testor's and others from time to time. I guess a
couple of hints may be helpful, and these are all from my experience:
1) Petroleum distallate paints (enamels, lacquers, those using acetone,
alcohols, etc.) are easiest to use (as opposed to water based paint), because
they "thin" and "flow" so nicely.
2) Thinning the paint properly, as well as proper application technique results
in the "least brush-stroke free" surfaces.
3) Airbrushing is BEST, but requires masking and careful preparation.
Unfortunately, a lot of pins with surface wear/checking will NOT tolerate
masking well, which can pull up MORE paint, and therefore require MORE work.
4) If masking is tolerated, use a GOOD QUALITY model masking tape with low tack
- like Mamiya brand, not this cruddy Home Depot generic weekend painter blue
stuff.
5) LIQUID masking material is also available at better hobby shops. It's kind
of like rubber glue, is applied with a paint brush, dries clear.
To conclude: Use the paint that YOU feel comfortable with, and get experience
using different types for best results. Do NOT use Sharpies and then try to
clearcoat with water-based Varathane; you'll be sorry (read: I learned this the
hard way).
If you have any other questions, let me know.
Chris
Bizzo100
based acrylic paints.
Although the wash up is easy the coverage is awful.
When trying to cover up light colours which are badly swirl marked it can
take 4 or 5 coats before you cannot see the colour of the swirls coming
through.
Next time I do any touch ups or a repaint I will try enamel modelling
paints.
For the Police Force I am planning to have the whole playfield coated with
an Auto Clear Coat.
Steve
"Chris Munson" <mu...@ti.com> wrote in message
news:3F688474...@ti.com...
cody chunn
acrylic latex artist's paints because they mix well and are easy to clean
up. This allows the use of latex primer, again easy clean up and not much
odor.
Areas to be painted must be CLEAN. The surface has had a lot of some sort of
cleaner/wax on it over the years, and that stuff hates paint.
Use foam brushes to apply clearcoat, and ALWAYS follow the wet-to-dry rule,
applying quickly, but not haphazardly. Keep an eagle eye for drips off the
brush or puddles. Keep out of sunlight.
"baraka" <gru...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:7a00a042.0309...@posting.google.com...
cfh
I get all done, if i don't like the results, I can undo then and
start over. You can't do that with the testor's enamels after it
dries. Also the wide range of colors available for acrylics is
better. Access is better too, as your local Walmart or Meijers
sells water based acyrlics. And they are cheaper than Testor's
enamels. I can buy every color of acrylic at the local store, and
take the same money spent, and only get about 1/3 to 1/2 as many
Testors colors. And having lots and lots of colors at your
disposal is a big advantage, as mixing custom colors is more difficult.
If you are having coverage problems with the water based paints,
perhaps you are not shaking them enough before using. That is
really important. About the only color i have had coverage
problems with are reds. But any other color, no problem.
Also after you do touch up, you need to somehow cover them.
Either mylar or preferably clearcoat. Acrylics and testor enamels
are not nearly as tough as the original paint. So some kind of cover
is needed or they will wear, removing all your touchup hard work.
Also the clear coat "blends" it all together, making the difference
in paint shine not noticible. Because you are probably brushing these
paints, they will have a different texture than the original playfield,
and the clear coat will make the original and touch up have the same
texture, making touchups much less noticible.
If you have waxed your playfield before (or after) touch ups,
the wax will need to be removed. You should never apply paint
over wax. Always clean the surface first with Naptha to remove
the wax. Also if you waxed after touch up and want to clearcoat,
Naptha will need to be used again. Wax may account for coverage
problems with acrylic paints (wax provides more problems with
acrylic water based paint than say enamels).
As for using an air brush, i would not recommend it unless you
are an air brush artist! They take a lot of practice to get good
at. More practice than the average Joe can/will invest. Also
the paints have to be thinned to be used in an airbrush, and
that's just another step. And the cleaning of the airbrush
between colors.... wow it's just more work than I would want to
do, especially when I have had such good outcomes with brush
applied water-based acrylics.
gru...@yahoo.com (baraka) wrote in message news:<7a00a042.0309...@posting.google.com>...
Edloco
> I can buy every color of acrylic at the local store, and
>take the same money spent, and only get about 1/3 to 1/2 as many
>Testors colors. And having lots and lots of colors at your
>disposal is a big advantage, as mixing custom colors is more difficult.
>
always running specials on the 2 oz bottles of these
acrylics.
.25 per bottle! EL in NC
Ed Loco CARGPB#9 (NC Div)