Kiss Pinball Stencil Kit Tips!
Michael Lenardon
from EBAY about 1 year ago. The issues are that stencil was made of
construction, bristol board paper grade material.
Retracing on Frisket type material or stiffer material (slightly thicker
than bristol board s recommended). I used a material that comes in large
sheets used for framing backing on pictures.
For paint I have found a water based spray paint works great for the white
coat or an Oil type paint if you have a spray gun.
For the red and black I used an air brush with oil paint thinned. I found
it much nicer to work with than acrylic air brush paint and I could get a
pint of red-orange mixed cheap that was almost an exact match.
The red and black areas must be done carefully using 3M Stencil Tack to
prevent overspray. The oil paint can be cleaned up after a few hours if you
get overspray. If you goof up it wipes off immediately with Thinner.
If you really mess up you have to strip the entire cab and start over.
The black can be touched up with a high end sharpie before clear coating if
the stencil edges are a little too hard.
The entire side was then clear coated with a non yellowing urathane.
So far I have the header 100% complete and one side entirely finished to
near perfect condition.
The hardest part to get satisfactory results on was the header Bally
wording.
The air brush is the best investment you can make for ensuring an ultra thin
coat of paint similar to the original used.
I also will recommend the mylar Playfield from Fabfan or arcadeshop which
was a very difficult job. For that we sanded and laquored the playfield
before applying (with the Windex and sqweegy method).
If anyone else here has tips on pinball cab painting please post to the
newsgroup or to myself.
Michael Lenardon
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