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Gottlieb system 1 help needed....
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Ron
May 13, 2013, 7:25:24 AM5/13/13
to
Hi,
I have a sinbad. It comes into play as should but none of the playfield switches are working. (no scroring at all).
All switches on coin door + end of ball is working.
I have replaced Z8 and Z9 bur no luck.
There are no connector problems on A1J6 and A1J7.
Anybody?
Is it ok if I perform a test like this:
1)deconnect A1J7
2) using a switch and a diode shorten pin 13 with pin 2 (roll over switch)
I want to do that to eliminate the possibility of playfield/cable issues..
I have a sinbad. It comes into play as should but none of the playfield switches are working. (no scroring at all).
All switches on coin door + end of ball is working.
I have replaced Z8 and Z9 bur no luck.
There are no connector problems on A1J6 and A1J7.
Anybody?
Is it ok if I perform a test like this:
1)deconnect A1J7
2) using a switch and a diode shorten pin 13 with pin 2 (roll over switch)
I want to do that to eliminate the possibility of playfield/cable issues..
Gott Lieb?
May 13, 2013, 8:05:50 AM5/13/13
to
*All* switches or just the 10pt. switches? If just the 10pt.
switches, if one of them is closed, they will all be disabled.
Yes, you can jump between connections on A1J7. If doing one at a
time, no diode is needed.
FWIW, there is a little trick I found when testing GTB Sys1 switches.
If you just want to see if a switch is identified by the CPU, you can
do this. Put game in attract mode. Close the switch in question. If
the displays flicker, the switch is functioning. This is a lot easier
than putting the game into switch test. Although the switch test with
a Ni-Wumpf is much superior, this test can be done with a Ni-Wumpf
too. I know you don't have a N-W, I'm just adding this statement for
archival sake.
Jim
switches, if one of them is closed, they will all be disabled.
Yes, you can jump between connections on A1J7. If doing one at a
time, no diode is needed.
FWIW, there is a little trick I found when testing GTB Sys1 switches.
If you just want to see if a switch is identified by the CPU, you can
do this. Put game in attract mode. Close the switch in question. If
the displays flicker, the switch is functioning. This is a lot easier
than putting the game into switch test. Although the switch test with
a Ni-Wumpf is much superior, this test can be done with a Ni-Wumpf
too. I know you don't have a N-W, I'm just adding this statement for
archival sake.
Jim
Ron
May 13, 2013, 8:48:36 AM5/13/13
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Hi,
None of the switches are working. (except coin door and outhole)
I forgot to mention the flickering part..
The displays do flicker when closing a switch. (I found out yesterday but did not know this works only in attract mode)
Does the flickering mean that the Spider chip is also functioning?
But then the question becomes: Why are they not working in game?
None of the switches are working. (except coin door and outhole)
I forgot to mention the flickering part..
The displays do flicker when closing a switch. (I found out yesterday but did not know this works only in attract mode)
Does the flickering mean that the Spider chip is also functioning?
But then the question becomes: Why are they not working in game?
Gott Lieb?
May 13, 2013, 9:59:14 AM5/13/13
to
If all of the coin door switches are working, then A1J6 is fine. The
PF switches are strictly on A1J7. Are you certain that the outhole
switch is working? It doesn't need to be identified on the first ball
to successfully kick the ball to the shooter lane.
IMO, the flickering is an archival effect that the switches are being
strobed / polled, and the CPU is receiving a returned signal.
Is the correct game rom installed? Rom should be marked with a "B".
Jim
PF switches are strictly on A1J7. Are you certain that the outhole
switch is working? It doesn't need to be identified on the first ball
to successfully kick the ball to the shooter lane.
IMO, the flickering is an archival effect that the switches are being
strobed / polled, and the CPU is receiving a returned signal.
Is the correct game rom installed? Rom should be marked with a "B".
Jim
John Robertson
May 13, 2013, 12:06:27 PM5/13/13
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correct ID to the switch closures. Read up on the self test in the
operators manual.
If the switches match their IDs then you may have a defective Game PROM
(missing, upside down, bad socket, dead...). These are available - I
have some good tested originals left for $20 plus postage (depending on
the game).
There is some info on:
http://www.pinwiki.net/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Technical_Info
Which is the archive site for http://www.pinwiki.com (under maintenance
at the moment).
Some suggestions for dealing with a few identified design issues:
https://www.flippers.com/gott_system_1.html#design
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Ron
May 13, 2013, 5:21:19 PM5/13/13
to
Hi,
Outhole is working.
I can play, and after 3 balls game over also ball in play is updated.
Rom is marked with a B.
Socket is ok (Checked traces also)
Outhole is working.
I can play, and after 3 balls game over also ball in play is updated.
Rom is marked with a B.
Socket is ok (Checked traces also)
Ron
May 13, 2013, 5:47:19 PM5/13/13
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Question, the code for the testing, is that coming from the game rom?
Gott Lieb?
May 13, 2013, 6:39:11 PM5/13/13
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Specific switch information comes from the game ROM. Are the two
targets drop targets or stationary targets? Both stationary targets
are the same switch number (switches are wired in parallel). Check
the solder tabs on the targets and the target leaves themselves.
Jim
targets drop targets or stationary targets? Both stationary targets
are the same switch number (switches are wired in parallel). Check
the solder tabs on the targets and the target leaves themselves.
Jim
Ron
May 14, 2013, 1:54:01 AM5/14/13
to
Hi,
Checked and found the issue there, that is working now so now all switches are working in test mode.
But: STOP THE PRESSES!!
You mentioned that that flickering is only in attract mode.
Not here. Also in game the displays flicker when I close them..
Checked and found the issue there, that is working now so now all switches are working in test mode.
But: STOP THE PRESSES!!
You mentioned that that flickering is only in attract mode.
Not here. Also in game the displays flicker when I close them..
Ron
May 14, 2013, 1:58:07 AM5/14/13
to
plus (I wanted to investigate this later ;)
When the hi-score and other data is displayed it some parts of numbers are missing but when I go into test mode 0 to 9 displays correctly..
Ron
When the hi-score and other data is displayed it some parts of numbers are missing but when I go into test mode 0 to 9 displays correctly..
Ron
Gott Lieb?
May 14, 2013, 6:21:10 AM5/14/13
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This may be the case. I've never checked, but it makes sense.
Jim
Jim
Gott Lieb?
May 14, 2013, 6:27:11 AM5/14/13
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If it effects two displays (or three - counting the status display),
it sounds like sporadic connections on J2 or J3 of the CPU board. If
only one display, check the connection at the display itself.
As always, do not remove any of the display connections (including J2
and J3) with the power on! You will toast chips on the CPU board.
Jim
it sounds like sporadic connections on J2 or J3 of the CPU board. If
only one display, check the connection at the display itself.
As always, do not remove any of the display connections (including J2
and J3) with the power on! You will toast chips on the CPU board.
Jim
Ron
May 14, 2013, 8:10:36 AM5/14/13
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Status update.
I have tested directly on board without connector attached. same issue.
Outhole J7-1 J7-8 works
But
looking at the traces. Outhole J7-1 - J7-8 both goto Z8.
While the other none working are going to Z9.
But it is working in test mode. so there can't be an issue with Z8 Z9 or Z28.
mm.. Maybe time to buy a pi-1
I have tested directly on board without connector attached. same issue.
Outhole J7-1 J7-8 works
But
looking at the traces. Outhole J7-1 - J7-8 both goto Z8.
While the other none working are going to Z9.
But it is working in test mode. so there can't be an issue with Z8 Z9 or Z28.
mm.. Maybe time to buy a pi-1
G
May 14, 2013, 11:56:16 AM5/14/13
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GuilfordBob
May 15, 2013, 8:55:47 AM5/15/13
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On Tuesday, May 14, 2013 8:10:36 AM UTC-4, Ron wrote:
Ron
May 19, 2013, 1:57:42 AM5/19/13
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thanks..
I am receiving a new Rom and Goldcap coming week and will do some tests..
I'll update my findings..
I am receiving a new Rom and Goldcap coming week and will do some tests..
I'll update my findings..
Ron
May 25, 2013, 4:23:25 AM5/25/13
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I have just received the ROM.
5 minutes later it was in the machine..
and it WORKS!!! ;)
Fot this thanks for all your help ;)
Now small new issue. When I press right flipper button it scores...
??
5 minutes later it was in the machine..
and it WORKS!!! ;)
Fot this thanks for all your help ;)
Now small new issue. When I press right flipper button it scores...
??
Gott Lieb?
May 25, 2013, 7:42:00 AM5/25/13
to
Figure out how much it scores, and then check switches with that point
value. They are either gapped to close, or the switch dampener (blade
used for keeping the backing blade steady upon switch closure) is
touching the blade it shouldn't be. The flipper is creating enough
vibration to cause this to happen.
Jim
value. They are either gapped to close, or the switch dampener (blade
used for keeping the backing blade steady upon switch closure) is
touching the blade it shouldn't be. The flipper is creating enough
vibration to cause this to happen.
Jim
homebrood
May 25, 2013, 12:04:10 PM5/25/13
to
Tom
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