How to tell the difference between BBB's?

[Joe M]

So, are there any obvious, easy, immediate or other ways to tell the
difference between the original BBB's and the repro BBB's? Sorry if this
has been asked already. But I'm sure we'll have people trying to pawn a
repro as one of the 10 (or whatever it was) originals.

Joe (joemagiera at ameritech dot net)
joema...@ameritech.net

[Fred Kemper]

The "new" ones are much shinier and better.

Every original proto pretty much shows it's age.

New ones have slathercoated playfields...

--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************
"Joe M" <joema...@ameritech.net> wrote in message news:ggo9i.24574$YL5...@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...

[PinAffliction]

> joemagi...@ameritech.net

Well the original at Gene's had side art that did not meet at the
edges of the cabinet, where the new units did. The original had
warning notice stenciled on back of the head, new units had nothing.
Also new units have their serial number hammer stamped into the edge
of the cabinet and head on back of the machine.
And yes the playfield on the new units was like glass.
I'm sure others will have more info on more obscure differences.

Regards,
Scott

[pmwolf]

"Slathercoated" is my new favorite word.

[Fred Kemper]

heh heh...

--
Fred
TX
CARGPB#8
******************

"pmwolf" <pmw...@gmail.com> wrote

[pinsane]

I hesitate in answering this question, because it can be viewed as a
knock against PMI. In fact, I consider it a remarkable achievement
that these games were produced. This list is not intended as a
criticism; rather it is simply a set of observations:

Cabinet paint is a lighter shade of purple and somewhat blotchy on
many machines.
Cabinet and backbox artwork decaled vs. screened.
Purple in cabinet and plastic artwork is pantone 267C rather than
pantone 268C which results in a noticeably lighter cab and greater
contrast w/ black artwork.
Plastics are reputed to be lexan.
The light blue in the artwork is pantone 312C vs. 319C.
Cabinet art resized so that artwork goes to the bottom edge (this also
causes the logo to be partially covered by the side rail).
The coindoor is different than the original Capcom coindoors.
No silver Capcom sticker on the coindoor (although not all of the
originals had this)
No yellow caution text or graphics on the back of the backbox.
No Capcom serial number sticker on the backbox.
No Capcom "NOTICE" sticker on the backbox.
All but the 10 (PMI "prototypes") machines have a yellow insert in the
mosh-pit rather than white.
Many playfields have a white line defect in the B lane.
Many playfields have a more pattern in the round gradients in the
center of the playfield.
Playfield arch artwork is decaled vs. screened.
EL Arrows have a white bus-bar rather than black.
The original EL Arrows had text on them that said ELITE, had the
manufacturer's name and a date-code.
The repros have a sticker which says "This way to bar" next to the
spinning alien locks.
Tube dancer and aliens are not from the original molds. The tube
dancer in the repro's glow in the dark.
The ramp is not from the original mold.
The EL board in the backbox is not a red board, nor is the creature
feature board.
The repro-ed light boards are not the same color as the original
Capcom boards.
I think the tube dancer switches are will not glow under UV light like
the originals.

And the difference which makes me the saddest:
Stan Fukuoka's name has been excised from the cabinet artwork.

steve SDTM

[pinsane]

> Many playfields have a more pattern in the round gradients in the
> center of the playfield.

Oops, I meant to type moiré pattern...

steve SDTM

[cpiel]

Whoa Steve - nice comprehensive list. Is it safe to say you own both
an original and repro side by side?