Preparing a Cabinet for re paint - Question
Edloco
P/B (Foto Finish).
The paint had a lot of bare spots, & was also flaking.
I sanded the paint to bare wood, & then sprayed it with a
ton of enamel, then clear coat.
The problem is, that part of the wood grain lifted up..just
like # 100 sand paper; rough as a cobb.
Is there a product I should have first used, to Seal the
wood, before painting?
Thanks, Edloco "Van go ha"
Wanted To Buy: Working Display Board for any 1 of the following games >>
F14 / Fire / Big Guns / Swords of Fury / Space Station, or Cyclone.
Will pay cash, or willing to be your Personal Butler for a Day or Two.
( *Certified* CARGPB9 - NC div )
Lloyd Olson
Of course after sanding you should have used a sanding sealer to lessen grain
lifting when you applied paint.
What kind of sealer may depend on what paint you'll use over it. Paint store
should be able to guide you. LTG :)
Edloco <edb...@qson.net> wrote in message
news:3d8691fe...@news2.randori.com...
Jesse
what about wood primer paint?
--
Jesse
S*B, E*BD, T*Z
www.thepinmaniac.com
Chat room, Forum, Items for sale, Tips, Modifications..
Home of Twilight Zone gumballs.
"Edloco" <go...@herder.net> wrote in message news:3d8691fe...@news2.randori.com...
Steve Charland
you sand the rough spots lightly with some fine paper, then shoot another
light coat of clear. It should look fine after that. -S (CARGPB1)
cody chunn
I would have suggested the following: Sand cab with rough grain paper (60)
to remove old paint. Sand with 150 to smooth. Finish with 100 or 220. Wood
glue any loose pieces. Spray a coat of primer. Knock off the bumps with 100.
Spray 1st coat. Sand with 220. Spray second coat. If applying clear, sand
with 600. Spray clear. Repeat until desired finish is attained.
"Edloco" <edb...@qson.net> wrote in message
news:3d8691fe...@news2.randori.com...
Greg Walker
prime the cabinet with white and spray on a white base coat. Some cabinets
have sucked up two or more base coats before sealing up. It is well worth
the cost of the paint.
Greg
Before
http://24.226.93.88/Arcade/Gottlieb/Skyline/Restoration%20pics/DSC00017.JPG
After
http://24.226.93.88/Arcade/Gottlieb/Skyline/Restoration%20pics/DSC0015.JPG
"Edloco" <edb...@qson.net> wrote in message
news:3d8691fe...@news2.randori.com...
Jesse
--
Jesse
S*B, E*BD, T*Z
www.thepinmaniac.com
Chat room, Forum, Items for sale, Tips, Modifications..
Home of Twilight Zone gumballs.
"Greg Walker" <im1b4u...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:eixh9.56335$Bj.53...@read2.cgocable.net...
cfh
don't you have TOP#1 where we show ya how to repaint the front
of a Gottlieb cabinet? If you don't have it, email me your
address and I'll send you the tape. Or you can look at the
restoration web page at
http://www.marvin3m.com/restore/index1.htm#repaint
But here's some tips...
0. Clean the sides of the cabinet with Mean Green. This will take
the crap off, and the yellow tabacco and other stains off.
This is *important*! Because you will be matching the front of
the cabinet color to the sides, you want the sides to be as clean
and crap-free as possible.
1. Fill any defects in the wood. I personally like body filler,
as it dries fast. Wood filler works too, but it's acetone based,
and takes 24 hours to dry in most cases.
2. After you have the cab wood BLOCK sanded (100 grit, 150 grit, 220,
320 grit), WET the wood with a sponge and some water. Don't soak it,
just wet it. Let it dry. This will "raise the grain". Now sand it flat
with 320 grit. This will minimize the amount of grain raise you
get with paint. After sanding, wipe the area down with Naptha.
3. Use a primer or a sanding sealer. Personally, I like sanding
sealer better (because it's clear). But they don't really sell it
in spray cans. But after 2 coats of primer or sealer, and letting
it fully dry, you can determine if you want to sand it GENTLY with
some 400 grit to smooth it out or not (usually it's a good idea).
I personally like the Krylon white primer.
3. Apply the color coat. LESS IS MORE. The more paint you
put on, the WORSE it will be. ALL the game makers used as
little paint as possible. Why? because it costs less, looks
better, and dries faster! You should do the same. Apply just
enough color to cover. Again, I like the Krylon brand. They
have two colors that are "just right" for most Gottlieb front
cabinet paint jobs ("Antique White" which is more yellowish,
or "Ivory" which is just slightly yellowish).
Apply "wet coats" of paint. That is, have the spray close
to the wood, and don't move too fast. Practice makes perfect.
No more than 2 color coats on a primed/sealed surface is needed.
Also, have the cabinet on it's "butt" so the painted surface is
level. This will eliminate the possibility of any paint runs!
Having paint too thick provides a couple problems: first, it
doesn't look original. Second, it will chip *easier*. This is
very important on the front of a cabinet! Because the coin
door will 'compress' the paint. If the paint is too thick, it
will chip around the edges of the coin door.
4. Gottlieb, Williams, Genco, United, or just about anybody pinball
didn't use a clear coat. Why are you? I mean don't you want the
front of the cabinet to match the rest of the game? The rest of
the game isn't clear coated!
5. Do the "splatter". Your Foto Finish is a wedgehead, right? If
so, it should have a silver splatter applied. Woodrails didn't
use the splatter, but wedgeheads did. Foto Finish came in both
flavors I believe. So use your judgement on this one.
Email me if you have any questions!
edb...@qson.net (Edloco) wrote in message news:<3d8691fe...@news2.randori.com>...
> I just repainted the front of a cabinet from a 42 year old
> P/B (Foto Finish).
>
> The paint had a lot of bare spots, & was also flaking.
>
> I sanded the paint to bare wood, & then sprayed it with a
> ton of enamel, then clear coat.
>
> The problem is, that part of the wood grain lifted up..just
> like # 100 sand paper; rough as a cobb.
>
> Is there a product I should have first used, to Seal the
> wood, before painting?
>
> Thanks, Edloco "Van go ha"
Edloco
tapes.
I've just been touching up some games.. since these aren't
"keepers", they'll look decent, but I wont have 50+ hours of
paint work in them. EL
On 17 Sep 2002 05:34:32 -0700, c...@provide.net (cfh) wrote:
>Ed,
>don't you have TOP#1 where we show ya how to repaint the front
>of a Gottlieb cabinet? You can look at the
Wanted To Buy: Working Display Board for any 1 of the following games >>
F14 / Fire / Big Guns / Swords of Fury / Space Station, or Cyclone.
Will pay cash, or willing to be your Personal Butler for a Day or Two.