Dave -
I am no expert but to remove a screw that is broken in wood - You only
choice is to use a drill press (So it stays perpindicular to the
surface and does not ruin the surface any more than it is by
slipping)-
Then take a dowel rod of equal size and glue it in... Use a blade to
cut off excess that is very flexible and can guide along the surface.
Once the dowel rod dries in place it will provide enuff support for a
new screw...
John
here's what I did. The ball end on the dremel is easy to control. I
don't think that a drill press will work, the drill is going to slip
off the nub and dig up the wood. Then, you'll have to fill with epoxy,
smooth, and touch up. Hopefuly, these holes are covered when the
machine is assembled.
--
-cody
CARGPB4
<samishf...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1175380870.0...@y66g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
In a similar situation, I just drilled a hole immediately adjacent to
the screw. This gave me room to use an awl or an ice pick to work the
screw out. Mine was under a playfield post, so it wasn't a big deal.
Just fill with a dowel (or even tooth picks), and you're back in
business.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
TeamEM
1) Upon application of the easy-out, it will help if you are
careful
to hold your mouth just the right way. A well known common position,
that seems to be somewhat universal, is the tongue tip in the corner
of
the mouth against the upper lip. You can throw in a bit of head
cocking for additional effect; about 20 degrees is good....
2) Also a carefully constructed admonishment to the offending screw
about your determination to win, that it had better co-operate or
else,
etc. has been found helpful in releasing an otherwise stubborn screw.
Sometimes it necessary to increase the level of threat, adding in a
perfectly syntaxed string of cuss words, until the screw is
intimidated
into co-operating. A real master of this form can cause a stuck screw
to practically unscrew itself.
Tom Lear
San Francisco, CA"
Thought this except may be of some use if an extrator is used. ;-)
Rick Swanson
CARGPB6
If that fails I highly recommend Rick's tips.
- Don
On Mar 31, 6:41 pm, samishfarmho...@hotmail.com wrote:
What I did was remove the screw from the bottom. With a hand drill I drilled
up to where the screw was (located with a magnetic stud finder). Then I
removed just enough wood along the sides of the screw to get a grip on the
screw with some needle-nose vice grips. Then I just turned the vice grips
and screwed the screw out of the hole. I filled in the back part of the
playfield with some wood filler, and let it dry for a couple of days. Then a
new screw can be put in.
Is the screw threads below the surface of the underside of the
playfield? How bout a pair of pliers from the bottom side of the
playfield? Was is a wood screw or a threaded machine type of screw? If
machine, just remove the T nut and replace the T nut with a new one
and you are good to go.