Any step by step TAF playfield swap info?
Muzza!
swap/restoration I have googled a fair amount of info. If anyone knows
of a site /blog/text file/ which explains in some detail things I
should pay close attention to, specific to TAF, I would be grateful. I
have never attempted this before and my experience is limited to
building a few Heathkit products a long time ago. I have done minor
repairs on my 6 Pinball's but nothing so adventurous.
Thanks;
Muzza!
WNUTS
Here's the way I do the swaps. It works for me. I snip off the wires
from each assembly and label the wires as to what assembly with my
label maker. I leave just enough wire on the assembly to see the
insulation color. Next with a marker I trace around the assembly on
the old PF and mark what it was. Label the assembly too. I leave all
of the single lights connected to the wiring and with a marker number
each one on the socket and where it came off the PF. I trace around
the lamp PCB's and label the connector and PF. I pry up the pop bumper
lamp wire staples after tracing their path and marking where they
connect on the PF. Same with any ground wires under the PF. If you
have good water proof labels you can put the harness in the bathtub
with some soapy water to swish around to clean. Then rinse and let
dry. If you aren't going to clean each assembly you can just move them
one by one off the old PF and over to the new. Use solder wick to run
new ground wires on the new PF. Mark on the old PF and clips where all
of your wire clips go too. Take lots of pictures too. I did an Addams
and it took me about 40 hours to complete. I do the top first by
removing everything and laying it out on the PF glass in the position
it came off. Take lots of pictures topside layer by layer as you
remove parts. Carefully pry up the wire forms with a small Wonderbar
so you don't bend them. Clean and wax the new PF too before you start
assembling the topside. I don't think I've forgotten anything.
gbi...@gmail.com
If you don't have a rotisserie, I recommend getting some tall hex
standoff (like 8-inch) for each corner of the playfield topside, maybe
even the backside if the mechs don't support it on the bench. There's
just no way around having to have access to both sides during the
process.
Just remember the steps for removing everything and reverse those
steps for re-assembly. Take notes and pictures along the way.
Anything heavy on the harness needs to be removed. I'd rather just
unsolder them than cut them and I only do the things I absolutely have
to. I even transfer the braid. It's a good tip to leave some of the
insulation, but I guess I'm too lazy to strip and tin all those
wires. :P You can put a small tick mark with a sharpie near the coil
lug that get's either the double wire or darker color. When you have
everything disengaged from the old playfield, work a piece of
cardboard the same size as the playfield underneath the harness,
switches and lamp sockets. This will allow you to just slide the
harness onto the new playfield once you have the T-nuts installed.
The wires have 'memory' and you'll be surprised how well everything
just falls into place.
When you have both playfield as bare as possible, this is the time for
you to check dimpling (if there any) or mounting holes. There's
usually an odd ball hole here or there that needs to be drilled or
dimple off in no-man's land. Point I'm trying to make is having to
make measurements and get things the same on the new field will be
much easier when the playfield is bare. You can actually take both
playfield and hold them up together (old playfield obviously on
bottom) to a light source and make sure you can see light shine
through all the holes. Any holes that need to be drilled and you'll
just use the old playfield as the template for that location.
You'll need a real decent pair of needle nose pliers to remove the
staples on the braid and recessed lamp sockets. Te factory also liked
soldering the wires to recessed lamp sockets right at the staple which
makes it a PIA to have to redo them. You should have a decent stapler
and some 3/8" square staples. When you restaple recessed lamp
sockets, be careful the staple doesn't work its way through to the
hole and short to the lamp socket. It's real easy to have happen and
a real bugger to troubleshoot.
Good luck!
-Gregg B.
honda350r
Lots of good tips , newer games are easier than the older games that
used lots of staples and ground braid
The only things stapled in a TAF pf are the pop bumper light
sockets, no ground braid either !
John Wart, jr
I don't like to cut the wires off the assemblies. I desolder, because
I want to clean the coil lugs real well and having the wiring in the
way, even when real short, can cause you to not get a spot completely
clean. Also, it's destructive, and I've done the cut the wire and
leave a little thing to find out the remaining wire is pulled too
tight and won't tuck into the wire supports etc.
The nice thing about a WPC game is only the flipper coils need diodes,
so there's no worry about which wire goes to which lug other than
flipper coils.
The harnesses have a nice memory, and you don't have to worry about it
too much, the harness will pretty much lay the way it's meant to lay
when you set it back in place.
Lots of pictures, lots of notes. Get everything clean before
reassembling. It lets you know which parts are worn or broken so you
can get the replacements, and allows you to keep your hands clean
while it's going back together.
The nice thing about TAF would be that there have been a LOT of TAF
swaps done on RGP, so if you have questions, you can ask here and get
plenty of responses.
If it starts seeming like work - stop - and come back when it doesn't.
If it seems like work, you'll cut corners - so don't force yourself to
have a strict schedule!
Muzza!
assemblies. For a beginner this will give me extra insurance until I
get more confidence in documenting the procedure.
I'm usually great at taking things apart...it's the other part I'm
worried about :)
On Sun, 6 Dec 2009 08:45:55 -0800 (PST), WNUTS <WN...@comcast.net>
wrote:
Muzza!
in aggravation?
Thank you for your tips..
Muzza /Jeff
Adm56
> Is it worth the investment in a rotisserie ie will it save me @ $300
> in aggravation?
>
> Thank you for your tips..
>
> Muzza /Jeff
>
$100 ish if you can do build this:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.pinball/browse_thread/thread/e32377bf86238807#
Muzza!
Thanks for the feedback....
I greatly appreciate your advice... If I end up with weird looking
extra parts once im finished I know you guys will help out...
RGP has always been one of the premire groups on the web because of
people like you.
Muzza / Jeff
Muzza!
Muzza
On Sun, 6 Dec 2009 12:47:24 -0800 (PST), Adm56 <adm5...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
honda350r
> Thanks for the suggestion about leaving just a bit of wire on the
> assemblies. For a beginner this will give me extra insurance until I
> get more confidence in documenting the procedure.
>
> I'm usually great at taking things apart...it's the other part I'm
> worried about :)
I don't recommend cutting the wires either !
Jim
WNUTS
Never had a problem with a wire being short. I only leave an 1/8 of
insulation. I also heat the lugs up and with angled needle nosed
pliers pull the old wire off before soldering the wires back on. While
the flipper assemblies are off do a complete rebuild on them.
Bushings, coil sleeves and contacts too. Check your pop bumpers too
for broken armature links.