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Using inkjet for homemade plastics?
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frenchy
Jun 2, 2012, 6:04:53 AM6/2/12
to
Any tips out there on using my color inkjet printer on clear plastic
or mylar sheets if I'm trying to make replacement pf plastics? I
guess what I'm picturing is printing on mylar/plastic sheet, cutting
out my blank plastics, and putting them together.
I have a Brother 495CW but so far all I've done is to make one unlit
plastic, so white paper worked fine on that. I can see that isn't
going to look right on lit plastics.
Any info appreciated, on either what material to use for the print, or
alternatives using this printer, like maybe using some kind of ultra-
thin paper that lets thru much more light. I only have one game that
needs any plastics at all, but boy does it need them. Combo of cooked
brown, bad warping, one busted in half, and lifted/missing ink, they
are a real mess.
Thanks!
or mylar sheets if I'm trying to make replacement pf plastics? I
guess what I'm picturing is printing on mylar/plastic sheet, cutting
out my blank plastics, and putting them together.
I have a Brother 495CW but so far all I've done is to make one unlit
plastic, so white paper worked fine on that. I can see that isn't
going to look right on lit plastics.
Any info appreciated, on either what material to use for the print, or
alternatives using this printer, like maybe using some kind of ultra-
thin paper that lets thru much more light. I only have one game that
needs any plastics at all, but boy does it need them. Combo of cooked
brown, bad warping, one busted in half, and lifted/missing ink, they
are a real mess.
Thanks!
Frank Furhter
Jun 2, 2012, 6:17:41 AM6/2/12
to
If it isn't going to look 'right', buy reproduction if available
instead. Its kind of nebulous what you say about looking right, doing
your own PF plastics will likely never 'look right'.
viperrwk
Jun 2, 2012, 6:20:08 AM6/2/12
to
Papillo has the media you need either self-adhesive or waterslide decal
paper. http://papillo.com
viperrwk
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viperrwk
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Kerry Imming
Jun 2, 2012, 7:42:06 AM6/2/12
to
"frenchy" <mf10...@msn.com> wrote in message
news:2767833f-b030-4a37...@qz1g2000pbc.googlegroups.com...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_Restoration#Creating_playfield_plastics
Adding more details to this is on the "to-do" list.
I got the clear adhesive sheets from MediaStreet, but I don't see it there
anymore. Check papilio.
I took the image to a copy center to get it printed with a color laser
printer. I thought this would fade less than inkjet.
- Kerry
frenchy
Jun 3, 2012, 2:50:41 AM6/3/12
to
Thank you folks, this should give me a good start and I'll get some of
that waterslide paper. What I meant my 'doesn't look right' is that
for a lit plastic I did a test print for, was much too dark especially
since this sling plastic only has only one lamp under it. When I made
the first unlit one for the other game, it looked great and I thought
oh boy this is easy, hah.
I realize they will not look like originals or real repros, but
compared to these trashed ones, ugh, I mean these are just in terrible
awful doo-doo condition, worst by far of any of the 80+ machines I've
had. I'm going to have to do some cleaning up and fixing of the
artwork after I do the scans, for sure. Somebody made a few sets of
Poker Face repros years ago but there aren't any available currently.
that waterslide paper. What I meant my 'doesn't look right' is that
for a lit plastic I did a test print for, was much too dark especially
since this sling plastic only has only one lamp under it. When I made
the first unlit one for the other game, it looked great and I thought
oh boy this is easy, hah.
I realize they will not look like originals or real repros, but
compared to these trashed ones, ugh, I mean these are just in terrible
awful doo-doo condition, worst by far of any of the 80+ machines I've
had. I'm going to have to do some cleaning up and fixing of the
artwork after I do the scans, for sure. Somebody made a few sets of
Poker Face repros years ago but there aren't any available currently.
Gozzle
Jun 3, 2012, 6:45:15 AM6/3/12
to
There's plenty of information on the internet and no "right way" to do
it.
It doesn't matter which way you go, it'll never look like screen
printed plastics.
But what you need to do is find a method, suitable for you and with
acceptable reuslts (for you).
I tried a plethora of ways and finished on clear deskjet stickers,
printed in reverse and covered in white sticky back plastic and was
very happy with the result:
http://taf.gozzled.com/?p=847
Good luck!
Goz
Beaver
Jun 3, 2012, 8:44:55 AM6/3/12
to
I have gathered some links for making plastics (along with my own
experiences) at the bottom of my BOP page:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album10/pinball/bop.htm
Since with plastics, the concern is the amount of light from front lit
and backlit sources, it can be hard to find the right media and print
method. I found that inkjets were not saturated enough, and
waterslide let through too much light from playfield lights. In my
experience, printing with a laser onto white paper produced the best
look. Take a look at the various approaches and decide for yourself.
Edward_Cheung CARGPB26
experiences) at the bottom of my BOP page:
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album10/pinball/bop.htm
Since with plastics, the concern is the amount of light from front lit
and backlit sources, it can be hard to find the right media and print
method. I found that inkjets were not saturated enough, and
waterslide let through too much light from playfield lights. In my
experience, printing with a laser onto white paper produced the best
look. Take a look at the various approaches and decide for yourself.
Edward_Cheung CARGPB26
frenchy
Jun 3, 2012, 9:04:54 AM6/3/12
to
Thanks for the add'l info. I'll want to see the best I can do with my
inkjet first. My nephews gave it to me for my birthday and I really
do need to get some experience with it anyway since I've not used it
much. I did have to boost the saturation of the colors way up on the
unlit plastic, along with experimenting with other adjustments to get
it close to the original artwork. Kind of thing where you boost/cut
something on the image itself, then try boosting/cutting more in the
printer options when you actually print it and see what the heck comes
out. : )
inkjet first. My nephews gave it to me for my birthday and I really
do need to get some experience with it anyway since I've not used it
much. I did have to boost the saturation of the colors way up on the
unlit plastic, along with experimenting with other adjustments to get
it close to the original artwork. Kind of thing where you boost/cut
something on the image itself, then try boosting/cutting more in the
printer options when you actually print it and see what the heck comes
out. : )
David Gersic
Jun 3, 2012, 1:34:12 PM6/3/12
to
On Sun, 3 Jun 2012 05:44:55 -0700 (PDT), Beaver <cheun...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Since with plastics, the concern is the amount of light from front lit
> and backlit sources, it can be hard to find the right media and print
> method. I found that inkjets were not saturated enough, and
> waterslide let through too much light from playfield lights. In my
For inkjet you can increase the saturation by running the plastic
> Since with plastics, the concern is the amount of light from front lit
> and backlit sources, it can be hard to find the right media and print
> method. I found that inkjets were not saturated enough, and
> waterslide let through too much light from playfield lights. In my
through the printer twice.
--
| David Gersic http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com |
| Earth is full. Go home. |
| Email address is a spam trap. Visit the web site for contact info. |
Frank Furhter
Jun 3, 2012, 2:38:02 PM6/3/12
to
David Gersic wrote:
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2012 05:44:55 -0700 (PDT), Beaver<cheun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Since with plastics, the concern is the amount of light from front lit
>> and backlit sources, it can be hard to find the right media and print
>> method. I found that inkjets were not saturated enough, and
>> waterslide let through too much light from playfield lights. In my
>
> For inkjet you can increase the saturation by running the plastic
> through the printer twice.
>
>
Do you really believe an inkjet feed mech is that accurate for
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2012 05:44:55 -0700 (PDT), Beaver<cheun...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Since with plastics, the concern is the amount of light from front lit
>> and backlit sources, it can be hard to find the right media and print
>> method. I found that inkjets were not saturated enough, and
>> waterslide let through too much light from playfield lights. In my
>
> For inkjet you can increase the saturation by running the plastic
> through the printer twice.
>
>
alignment/keying?
Hans
Jun 3, 2012, 6:42:18 PM6/3/12
to
I gave up on inkjet decals a long time ago, tried them a few times for
scale model work. Unless you do them from a professional printer,
instead of a home / home office model, the inks just fade too fast.
Some cases you can use aftermarket inks instead, but never looked into
that much.
That, and unless you seal them perfectly before applying.... they run
too much.
I do have access to a color laser printer, and that's a whole
different story. They are more durable and don't run when you apply
them.
-Hans
scale model work. Unless you do them from a professional printer,
instead of a home / home office model, the inks just fade too fast.
Some cases you can use aftermarket inks instead, but never looked into
that much.
That, and unless you seal them perfectly before applying.... they run
too much.
I do have access to a color laser printer, and that's a whole
different story. They are more durable and don't run when you apply
them.
-Hans
frenchy
Jun 3, 2012, 7:57:42 PM6/3/12
to
> Do you really believe an inkjet feed mech is that accurate for
> alignment/keying?>>
Well, if all else fails, I just may end up finding out one way or the
> alignment/keying?>>
other. ; )
David Gersic
Jun 4, 2012, 1:40:59 AM6/4/12
to
do this in the past.
| The best laid plans of mice and men are usually about equal. |
Frank Furhter
Jun 4, 2012, 10:12:10 AM6/4/12
to
David Gersic wrote:
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2012 16:57:42 -0700 (PDT), frenchy<mf10...@msn.com> wrote:
>>> Do you really believe an inkjet feed mech is that accurate for
>>> alignment/keying?>>
>>
>> Well, if all else fails, I just may end up finding out one way or the
>> other. ; )
>
> Alignment is suprisingly good, even on the cheap printer I've used to
> do this in the past.
>
I would disagree, but depends on what you want to accept as acceptable.
> On Sun, 3 Jun 2012 16:57:42 -0700 (PDT), frenchy<mf10...@msn.com> wrote:
>>> Do you really believe an inkjet feed mech is that accurate for
>>> alignment/keying?>>
>>
>> Well, if all else fails, I just may end up finding out one way or the
>> other. ; )
>
> Alignment is suprisingly good, even on the cheap printer I've used to
> do this in the past.
>
I'll always go with color laser first time one pass on quality clean
paper.
KenH
Jun 4, 2012, 11:26:13 AM6/4/12
to
>
> - Show quoted text -
Have you tried velum paper? Might be a nice compromise .. it lets a
lot of light thru, yet still holds a pretty good image.
http://www.amazon.com/Company-2-Inch---11-Inch-Translucent-Package/dp/B001FD3U5I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1338822655&sr=8-1
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