Taking Gottlieb Pop Bumpers Apart. Best Method?

[pherfect]

Hi all, I need to replace the mylar platters on my Joker Poker, and
having never done it before am a little apprehensive. My understanding
is that the light socket is the biggest obstacle. What's the best
method to work it? Thanks.
Chris

[Todd Newman]

You will need to unsolder the socket. Then, in all likelyhood replace
it.

Usually, I
Go from underneath and undo the nuts attached to the rod and ring
assy.
Unscrew the screws going into the PF. With this vintage, they are
machine screws, so you don't need to worry about stripping the wood.
You might be able to swing the entire assy out of the way now for
access to the light socket tails.
If not, undo the two screws holding the coil on - these are on the
bracket about 1/2 up. Then remove the coil and let it hang or tie it
up (better)
Now, slide the tube insulators off the wires by the lamp sockets. You
might have a clear tube and a black tube or two of one color - but
they are the plastic hoses/tubes that keep the light socket from
shorting out against the plate. You might have to pull as staple or
two to make this happen
Now, unsolder the light socket.
Push the two free tails towards each other. You should be free on the
bottom at this point.

Go up top and remove the pop bumper cap.
Unscrew the two screws that hold the body to the PF and pull up. It
should all come free.

Assy is the reverse. Use new light sockets. Be sure to tin the
ends. Trim the ends to size and be sure to slide the tube insulators
back on. Re-staple if required. Clean the spoon out. Make sure the
trigger on the skirt is centered in the spoon.

It will take you about as long to do it as it took me to type it.
It's easy.

[Todd Newman]

Also, I see that the pop bumper portion of the EM pinwiki has been
updated. This is for a Chicago Coin but is very, very close to what I
described. The main difference is that you will need to pay attention
to those insulating tubes.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Pop_Bumpers

[AddictedToEMs]

If you don't have a long nose stapler - it is very difficult to get in
there when you replace the pops. I finally bit the bullet and bought
one since I usually swap out pop hardware on all my machines...

[pherfect]

Is it absolutely necessary to relace the socket? If so, would an EM
socket work with an SS socket? I might be able to get one from the
local EM repair guy if that would work.

[#1junkie]

On May 9, 7:14 pm, pherfect <pherf...@hotmail.com> wrote:

i believe the sockets are the same on joker poker as on any gottlieb e/
m's. i would also recommend cannging the coil sleeve, centering
spring, and return spring. might as well get the most pop ouy of the
bumper as possible.

[Todd Newman]

Absolutely? Maybe not. Will you wish you had? Probably. Buy a bunch
from Steve, they are only $1.20 each.

You didn't originally ask, but as another poster mentioned, the coil
sleeve is good to replace as well. Might want to dress the points
too. Really, once you have it apart, why go half way?

Regarding the staples, if you carefully remove them with a pliers, you
might be able to put them back in the hole they came out of and tap
them in with a small tack hammer.

[pherfect]

> them in with a small tack hammer.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I made a big order with Steve last week. Flipper rebuild kit, new
drop targets and springs, coil sleeves, new pop bumpers w caps, the
two springs, mylar platters, and wouldn't ya know it, in my ignorance
didn't order the sockets. Everything but the pops are replaced. Looks
like I'll be giving Steve a call tomorrow...

[David Gersic]

Zaccaria used essentially the same design as Gottlieb. You might try the
"How to" section of my web site, where I have a full pop bumper rebuild
documented.

--
| David Gersic http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com |
| Anagram: Eleven plus two = Twelve plus one |
| Email address is a spam trap. Visit the web site for contact info. |

[seymour.shabow]

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=EM_Repair#Pop_Bumpers

Good writeup on pinwiki that shows you what needs to be done. Replace
the platters with adhesive ones if the paint underneath is in good shape.

-scott CARGPB#29

[cody chunn]

Plug in soldering iron.

Turn off/unplug game. Remove handrail. Remove playfield glass. Remove ball.
Raise playfield and lean against backbox (affix if necessary).

Remove two nuts holding ring poles.

Remove screws securing coil bracket. Pull bracket free and velcro to a
nearby wiring loom to hold it safely out of the way.

[Replace coil sleeve and polish plunger. Clean coil and bracket assembly.]

Heat solder on lamp leads and pull wires free. Straighten leads. Reheat
solder and suck off with vac tool. Get as much off as possible.

Lay field back down. Remove caps. Remove two mounting screws in bottom of
body.

Grasp bumper assembly and remove all at once.

Replace platter. [Replace skirt.] [Replace lamp socket.]

Clean and reinstall in reverse order.

-cody

"pherfect" wrote in message
news:c53abdaf-bd64-49c0...@r35g2000prj.googlegroups.com...

[pherfect]

All great tips guys. A big THANK YOU! I bookmarked the providied
links. I'll ask Steve if he has the self-adhesive platters when I
order the sockets..

[seymour.shabow]

He does but if you ask him what you should get for your game he'll want
to sell you the floating ones.

[cody chunn]

I would suggest getting wedge-base sockets and a box of 555s for lighting.
There's a slight trick to install the sockets leaning over, but I have had
much better longevity with those than the bayonet type.

-cody

"pherfect" wrote in message
news:baef7529-d976-493d...@s41g2000prb.googlegroups.com...

[Pat in PA]

-

Jumping in a bit late here but remember to check the metal and fiber
yokes on the pop assemblies for breakage or wear. Also have a look at
the coil stops. If they're flattened out or mushroomed, replace.
And just to stir up the pot a bit here . . .I prefer the floating
mylar rings!!
Pat

[pherfect]

Thanks Pat, will do.

[Gott Lieb?]

Pffft! Floating, schmoating. I still can't understand why you use
those abominations, Patrick. Yeah, they look fantastic when they are
clean, but that are such a PITA to clean under / around.

Jim

[Sean Kavanagh]

> > Pat- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

Pfft back atcha Jimbo!! Pat right on here floating is the way to go.
The sticky ones are gonna be great when they get really old and start
to crack, that'll be alot of fun getting those back off. I can
replace a floating ring in about 4 minutes...try that with the
adhesive ones. I think stickys are good for SS games, but EMs should
float...we all float down here... ;o)

Sean

[seymour.shabow]

If you wax the area well first the sticky ones come up great ;)

The pinball pal colorforms ones would work well too.

[Chaz]

On May 10, 7:45 am, "seymour.shabow" <seymour.sha...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Sean Kavanagh wrote:
> > On May 10, 7:05 am, "Gott Lieb?" <r...@papinball.com> wrote:
> >> Pffft!  Floating, schmoating.  I still can't understand why you use
> >> those abominations, Patrick.  Yeah, they look fantastic when they are
> >> clean, but that are such a PITA to clean under / around.
>
> >> Jim
>
> >> On May 9, 11:56 pm, Pat in PA <ball...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>> Jumping in a bit late here but remember to check the metal and fiber
> >>> yokes on the pop assemblies for breakage or wear. Also have a look at
> >>> the coil stops. If they're flattened out or mushroomed, replace.
> >>> And just to stir up the pot a bit here . . .I prefer the floating
> >>> mylar rings!!
> >>> Pat- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > Pfft back atcha Jimbo!!  Pat right on here floating is the way to go.

> > Thestickyonesare gonna be great when they get really old and start

> > to crack, that'll be alot of fun getting those back off.  I can
> > replace a floating ring in about 4 minutes...try that with the

> > adhesiveones.  I think stickys are good for SS games, but EMs should

> > float...we all float down here...  ;o)
>

> If you wax the area well first thestickyonescome up great ;)
>
> The pinball pal colorformsoneswould work well too.- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

I prefer sticky ones myself...
Chaz.

[Pat in PA]

> Chaz.-

I love stirrin' up shit, especially when it irritates Gott Lieb . . .

[Stevebo]

Pfft is right Jim. Screw those floating mylar rings. All they do is
collect crap under them and wear away at the artwork underneath. Worst
creation Gottlieb ever came up with. Well, not the worst, probably the
straight slotted screws are the worst, but a close second anyway.
stevebo

[Stevebo]

Nice write-up on repairing a pop bumper.

One thing I'd suggest Chris is to get a couple of sawhorses, open up
the backbox and remove the cables that are connected to the playfield,
and remove the playfield and lay it on the sawhorses where you can
easily see and work on the pop bumpers. It's much easier to just pull
the playfield and work on it this way and while you are at it, replace
other stuff such as coil sleeves. You will get a much better view and
won't have to worry about dropping anything. It takes practically no
time at all.

stevebo

[GOCATGO]

> Sean- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

YEAH-YEAH...what Pat and Sean said! If you keep your pf clean and
waxed
properly you shouldn't have to worry about dirt getting under the
'floating platters'...but that's just how I roll. ; )

Russ
www.Team-EM.com

[pinba...@hotmail.com]

On May 10, 7:36 am, Sean Kavanagh <seanspinballb...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Sean- Hide quoted text -

>
> - Show quoted text -

You guys know I prefer the stick on mylars. By the time they might
need to be replaced, I'll be too old to care. Guess that would be
about the time that Pat will be in the gereatric ward where he would
join the last girl (woman) he took out on a date.

Pat & Russ, we missed you guys at Allentown..

Dave