Help: Playfield restoration
Scott L
Kiss playfield
and I took the plunge and have started to coat it with Polyurethane. After
three coats, it
is almost perfect, but it is amazing how the original paint is uneven.
Hoping that one more coat will level things off, but I am wondering what to
do regarding sanding, Novus application, wax etc. I also am leaning towards
putting maylar around the the slings and jet bumpers. Do you think that is
wise, or will the poly hold up? This is a home played machine that I am
restoring, but seeing the condition of the original playfield (and the
outrageous price I paid for the NOS one) I want to make sure this looks good
forever.
Any comments or suggestions are very much welcome.
Thanks
Mach5 Mike
>three coats, it
>is almost perfect, but it is amazing how the original paint is uneven.
>Hoping that one more coat will level things off,
Adding additional coats will NOT level things off. You need to apply 1 coat
then sand it smooth using a flat sanding device so there will be no dips.
Basically, the poly fills in the dips and you're sanding off all the poly that
is NOT in the dips. Then apply the 2nd coat and do the same. Then finish off
with a third coat.
> I also am leaning towards
>putting maylar around the the slings and jet bumpers. Do you think that is
>wise, or will the poly hold up?
Unless you play the game 8 hours a day, the poly will hold-up fine (as did
mine)
For what it's worth, I have written-up a complete playfield restoration
proceedure, from paingting to poly. If you want a copy let me know. It's
somewhat long and I didn't want to re-post here.
Mike D'Alessio
Mach...@aol.com
c...@provide.net
...or just see http://marvin3m.com/restore as there is a complete
detailed section on how EXACTLY to poly a playfield, complete
with detailed pictures...
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
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David Gersic
>For what it's worth, I have written-up a complete playfield restoration
>proceedure, from paingting to poly. If you want a copy let me know. It's
>somewhat long and I didn't want to re-post here.
I'd be interested in reading it. Go ahead and post it here, it's pinball
related.
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| |
|David Gersic dgersic_@_niu.edu |
|Systems Programmer Northern Illinois University |
| |
| A cubicle is just a padded cell without a door. |
| |
|I'm tired of receiving crap in my mailbox, so the E-mail address has been|
|munged to foil the junkmail bots. Humans will figure it out on their own.|
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Mach5 Mike
>In <19990304131413...@ng22.aol.com>, mach...@aol.com (Mach5
>Mike) writes:
>>For what it's worth, I have written-up a complete playfield restoration
>>proceedure, from paingting to poly. If you want a copy let me know. It's
>>somewhat long and I didn't want to re-post here.
>
>I'd be interested in reading it. Go ahead and post it here, it's pinball
>related.
>
>
>+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
>| |
>|David Gersic dgersic_@_niu.edu |
Here you go David. Read on....
"PLAYFIELD PAINTING AND POLYURETHANE RESTORATION"
by Michael D'Alessio - 1999
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
DISCLAIMER: I make no claims about the results YOU will have. I am only
telling you about
MY experience which I was very happy with. Read the entire process before
starting your
playfield restoration project.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------
* * * OPENING NOTES * * *
First of all, I must say that I am pretty good with a paint brush. I do some
graphic art at work.
But, DON'T let that stop you.
My project entailed re-painting and refinishing the ENTIRE playfield (Bally
Flash Gordon). If
you plan to only touch-up certain sections (like bare spots) use the
information provided as a
guide.
This restoration process WILL take hours to complete. Do not try to rush it!
..."The bitterness of a rushed restoration, lingers long after the sweetness of
saved time is
forgotten."...
* * * PREPARATION PROCESS * * *
Before any restoration can be done, it is highly recommended, if not necessary,
to remove all the
glass, plastics, ramps, posts, bulbs, and anything else that is in the way.
(TIP: Take detailed photos and notes of your playfield before disassembly.
This will make it
much easier during re-assembly)
Then remove all the mylars. I used a hair dryer to warm the adhesive. You can
use a heat gun
only if the gun has a variable temperature setting. If you apply too much
heat, the mylar will
melt or burn.
As the mylar warms, keep constant pulling pressure on the mylar and it will
slowly peel off. If
you pull too fast, you stand a chance of pulling off the underlying paint.
After peeling off all the mylars, use paint thinner (NOT laquer thinner),
mineral spirits, or lighter
fluid to get rid of the remaining sticky adhesive. Do a thorough job.
Then use a 3M "ScotchBrite" pad (very fine) and rub the entire playfield to
dull it and take off
the sheen.
(TIP: DO NOT use steel wool - the steel residue, no matter how much you vacuum,
will get
everywhere and can later short your switches, lamps, and be an electrical
nightmare. Also, being
that steel wool is curly, it tends to "hook" into thinks making it very hard to
vacuum.)
Vacuum the playfield thoroughly.
Then use a tach cloth (cheap, and available at hardware stores) to pick-up any
remaining grit/dirt.
Then, make sure there is no grease/oil/wax on the playfield. "Naptha"
(available at hardware
stores) is the recommended product for removing old wax. Just apply some on a
clean cloth, and
wipe down the playfield. Repeat several times.
(TIP: You can buy "wax remover" from automotive paint stores, but it's just
Naptha relabeled.
Lighter fluid is also the same as Naptha, just not as pure.)
Let any excess fluid evaporate/dry before the painting process.
* * * PAINTING / TOUCH-UP PROCESS * * *
- What To Buy:
I purchased Testor's brand paint and regular ENAMEL paint. Testor's paint is
more expensive
per ounce but you get a wider selection of colors. If you need a lot on one
color (say black or
red) just buy the larger off-brand cans from the hardware store.
Make sure you buy a good artist brush (about $10-$20). I used 2 brushes, a
very small size and a
little wider size. Also, buy a pack of tach cloth towels, 3M brand ScothBrite
pad (very fine),
600 & 1200 grit sandpaper, and a small sanding block (or a small piece of
square wood) All
items are readily available at any hardware store. You may have to buy the
sandpaper at an
automotive repair shop.
- Do You Have Down-To-The-Wood Bare Spots?:
As far as the "down-to-the-wood" bare spots (which I did have) there are a few
options. If the
wear has only taken off the paint and not heavily scarred the wood, no special
attention is needed
here. You do not need to sand paper the area. Just use the ScothBrite pad to
take-off any sheen.
My bare spots were not too deep so I just painted them over like everything
else. One thing to be
careful about is that a bare spot IS lower than the remaining painted
playfield, so you want to
build-up the paint to get a closer level match. You will also be able to
build-up the polyurethane
to make a better level match (as shown below).
If the playfield wood has been damaged, and gouges or divots are apparent, then
you will want to
level the bare spot. You can apply a good wood putty. Follow the direction on
the wood putty
can. Sand paper prior to painting. Finish-off your sanding with a 600 grit
paper.
(TIP: Keep in mind the objective in damaged wood repair is to make any gouges
or divots in the
bare wood LEVEL with ITSELF (or as close as you can). Meaning, you DON'T want
the
repaired bare spot level with the PAINTED playfield. Because later, when you
add paint to the
bare spot, it will then be slightly higher than the rest of the playfield. )
- Paint Color Mixing Process:
Use a clear plastic peanut can lid or piece of glass (they don't absorb the
paint). Mix enough
paint to do those specific areas on the playfield with that particular color.
You don't have to mix
a lot. A small amount of paint goes a long way. I mixed my paint with a
LITTLE paint thinner.
I found that the paint flowed easier if it was SLIGHTLY thinner.
(TIP: To make more perfect color matches, mix the paint on a piece of clear
plastic or glass.
Paint may look different on colored plastic than on the playfield. Now you can
hold-up the
mixed paint next to the original paint for comparison before you actually apply
it.)
(TIP: If, after trying, you just can't get a color to match exactly, you may
consider this. Get a
close color match. Now, paint the touch-up area AND the adjacent area that you
were trying to
match. Now the paint will all be the same. This techniques got me out of a
lot of color matching
jams. The end result is not even noticeable.)
- Painting Process:
Apply the pain in long, smooth strokes. If you apply in short (choppy) strokes
you will notice
more brush marks. Even the best painters will notice some brush marks right
after you apply the
paint. These will almost always vanish as the paint dries.
Paint as many colors as you can without accidently rubbing your arm in the
fresh paint. The
paint takes about 1-2days to dry to the touch and about 2-4 days to fully dry.
Let the paint fully
dry.
After the playfield is completely painted and dried, re-vacuum the playfield.
Make sure you use
a tach cloth to pick-up any stray dust/dirt.
* * * POLYURETHANE PROCESS * * *
Keep in mind, once you make the commitment and polyurethane the playfield there
is no turning
back. Meaning, you can go back and touch-up an area you forgot to paint or
decide you didn't
want to polyurethane in the first place. Polyurethane is permanent!
- Level The Playfield and Maintain At Room Temperature:
You can keep the playfield in its cabinet with all the under-wiring attached,
but you MUST
PERFECTLY level the playfield. Use blocks of wood and shims. (If you don't
level the
playfield, as the polyurethane dries it will pool in a low spot.). Also, the
playfield\game must be
maintained at room temperature for about 8 hours prior to the polyurethane
process.
- Polyurethane Sheens, Brands and Bases:
The "sheen" of the polyurethane is a personal preference. It is available in
high-gloss, satin and
flat finish. Although I used a satin finish, some people prefer the gloss.
It's totally up to you.
However, I would NOT recommend the flat finish (it just looks too dull). Also,
keep in mind
that the flatter the finish (meaning satin over high-gloss) the less you will
notice dust and
imperfections when your finished. That is because less light is reflected by a
flatter finish than
that of a high-gloss finish.
I used and an oil-based polyurethane (as opposed to a water base). I do not
have experience with
the newer water-based polyurethane. However, I have read that the water based
polyurethanes
do not "yellow" in time and, of course, are easy to clean-up. An oil-based
polyurethane, by
nature, does have a slight yellow/golden property. (I do plan to give the water
based polys
(Varathane) a try on my next restoration.)
I've used "Red Devil" brand on my hardwood floors. They have held up
beautifully for 6 years
now (with 2 kids). I was going to buy the "Red Devil" brand for my playfield,
but they were all
out. I don't recall what brand I used for the playfield. But if I were you,
I'd feel comfortable with
any brand name polyurethane.
I purchased the "brush-on" variety. It is also available in a spray can. Use
whatever you are
comfortable with. Ounce per ounce, the spray is more expensive than the
"brush-on", but the
nominal difference in price should not be a factor here. With a "spray-on"
variety, you need to
take additional preparatory steps, like masking-off specific areas,
ventilation, etc.
- Applying the "Brush-On" Polyurethane Coat:
Follow the direction on the can. For the "brush-on" variety, DO NOT shake the
can. You'll get
air bubble in the polyurethane. These millions of air bubbles will not all
pop, and you will end
up with air bubble in your polyurethane as it dries. Stir the can SLOWLY with
a clean paint
stick.
Apply the first coat with a excellent-quality brush, one made specifically for
applying
polyurethane (about $10). Its bristles are very fine and leave little brush
marks. (Don't use a
regular paint brush). Apply the polyurethane to the entire are you plan to
re-finish (in my case
the entire playfield). Do not stop, for even 5 minutes, until you completely
apply the first coat.
If you wait, the polyurethane will start to "skin over" and you will end up
disturbing the drying
polyurethane with fresh polyurethane; resulting in a hard to fix ripple.
You may notice some brush marks right after you apply the polyurethane. Don't
worry. These
marks will almost always vanish as the polyurethane dries.
After applying the first coat, wait about 6 hours (or whatever the specific
brand manufacturer
recommends).
(TIP: Don't let the polyurethane completely dry or you will have to re-scuff
the playfield with a
higher grit sandpaper. The reason for this is because additional coat of
polyurethane need to
"chemically" bind to the first for proper adhesion. On the other hand, if the
first coat is not dried
enough, you will disturb the first coat when sanding or applying the second
coat.)
If the playfield is very level, just use the ScothBrite pad or 1200 grit sand
paper on you sanding
block. You must use a sanding block. For large areas, use a store bought
block. For the tight
spots, I found that the best sanding block is a small piece of flat wood stock,
cut to about
1"x1"x3". Don't even think of using your "fingers" as a sanding block, you
will end up with
dips in the surface and never get the playfield surface level.
Lightly sand the entire playfield. The purpose of sanding is to level-off any
uneven areas caused
as the result of not enough paint being applied to the bare spots, or too much
paint applied.
(TIP: Use 600 grit sand paper to correct more uneven spots (it will sand down
much faster). Use
the 600 grit paper only on areas that need to be leveled-off. Follow-up with
1200 grit.)
If you end-up having to sand off 50% of the first coat of polyurethane to get
an even finish, no
problem.
Next, vacuum the playfield , and follow-up by wiping it down with a clean tach
cloth. Make sure
no polyurethane dust is left on the playfield.
Next, apply the second coat of polyurethane using the same procedures as the
first coat.
(TIP: I only applied 2 coats of polyurethane. Some people recommend up to 3
coats. Do not use
over 3 coats. (Up to 5 coats can be applied ONLY if you are using the spray-on
variety). More
coats does not necessarily give you better playfield protection/durability.
With each coat of
polyurethane you apply, you increase the chance of improper adhesion to the
previous coat,
increase the chance that the playfield will look "dull", and yield a greater
possibility of
"yellowing".)
IF, after drying, your final coat has a "slight" ripple due to improper or
insufficient sanding, it
probably won't effect game play that much. It's up to you how much sanding and
elbow grease
you want to apply.
After the last coat of polyurethane, LET THE PLAYFIELD DRY FOR ABOUT 1 WEEK, AT
ROOM TEMPERATURE, BEFORE WAXING OR PLAYING ON IT!!!!! I can't stress that
enough. Even though initially the polyurethane may appear to be dry, it needs
time to fully cure.
- Maintenance:
After a week, rub-on a coat of automotive carnauba wax. 2 coats are
sufficient. The wax really
gives the ball a slick surface to roll on. After that, you can use just about
anything to clean the
surface; from glass cleaner to floor cleaner. Save your money on expensive
products. Assuming
you want to clean the playfield and not re-wax, for general cleaning use a
product that will not
remove wax.
(TIP: A clean playfield is a happy playfield. Keep your playfield clean. Dust
and dirt under a
rolling ball act just like sandpaper resulting in scratches.)
Occasionally re-wax as necessary.
* * * CLOSING NOTES * * *
Polyurethane is the most durable of the wood coatings (I know, I've researched
it a lot before
applying it).
IF the result you achieve on your playfield restoration is not quite as nice as
an N.O.S. finish, it
WILL be 100 times better (from an aesthetic and playability stand point) than
the way it was.
And, best of all, you did it yourself.
Another excellent restoration guide, including pictures, can be found at:
http://marvin3m.com/restore/
It's a GREAT site on pinball playfield and component restoration.
Good Luck!
Mike D'Alessio