Best putty or epoxy for fixing stripped screw holes on PF (Quickwood?)
rob046
had tried some stuff we had in our house that was putty, & was
supposed to be drillable, but after it dried, its a post that takes a
lot of tension, and it ended up pulling out & stripping out even more
wood.
I ended up using super glue mixed with a bit of sawdust, which worked,
but I'd rather use a more woodlike material as the super glue might
not hold up after removing and rescrewing the screw a few times.
Any suggestions? Quickwood good?
John Wart, jr
Plain ole wood glue with a bamboo skewer in the hole always works
great for me!
seymour.shabow
I've never had that happen with epoxy (quickwood) which you can get at
any home depot/lowes type store. Most of the time I use wood dowels
glued in with carpenter's glue. If you torque it down too hard you will
pull anything out - the posts need to be snug. If it's really bad just
use a machine post instead with a t-nut on the bottom of the PF, I do
that for the slings on older machines as they take the most abuse.
-scott CARGPB#29
Ron - NY Pinball
overnight. The next day when I went to put the screw in, the skewer pulled
right out of the hole, now I use regular wood toothpicks, i'll have to try
the skewers again someday.
Ron
"John Wart, jr" <johnw...@johnwartjr.com> wrote in message
news:3358877e-ca4e-48db...@g31g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
cody chunn
don't want to use the whole thing, IME. If I may:
Stripped screw hole repair.
Prep: Turn the playfield so that the screw hole points up.
1) Stick the blunt end of the skewer in the hole to be repaired.
2) While holding the skewer in place, snip it off with a pair of diagonal
pliers. Repeat so that you have 2 short pieces.
3) Read disclaimer in signiture. :0)
4) Use a razor knife, exacto or sharp edge to split the skewers like logs
for the fireplace. I try to 1/16th them if I can.
5) Dab some regular wood glue on the splinters and stick them in the hole,
one at a time. Repeat until the last one you have to tap in with a light
hammer. That signals you are finished.
Tap the whole stack with the hammer a couple of times to make sure they are
nice und toit.
Wipe off any excess glue, carefully and neatly. Damp cloth helps.
6) Let cure *at least* 24 hours. I prefer to do these repairs on a palyfield
first, so they will have the longest possible cure time. You may need to
trim the top after the bond has cured.
I have experienced results similar to John's: Good. Maybe the best thing
about this repair though, is that you can usually put the screw right back
in and have great results. This is vital for service calls, when the last
thing you want is a callback.
It's also important for gameplay, as a post with a stripped screw may still
stay in place, but that tiniest bit of slop in the post kills ball action
and makes games DULL. EMs got a bad rap for being slow and dull, but that
was after gorilla operators had stripped most of the screws out and left the
same flipper hardware and sleeve for a decade...forget rebuilding pop
bumpers.
But I'm starting to drift...
--
-cody
--CARGPB4
[Note: Following any advice given in this message
may result in property damage, minor injury, serious injury or death.
Follow advice at your own peril.]
"Ron - NY Pinball" <rons...@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:4ad2310b$0$5014$607e...@cv.net...
AFM_TZ
Tried the quickwood - Did not work well at all. Let it dry for 2 days
and still maintained spongy feel - screw would not hold to it.
Toothpick with some wood glue worked much better (perfect in fact).
PapaJohn
Just cut a 3/8" long piece of a wooden matchstick put a little white
glue on it stuff it up the hole and go ahead and screw the fastener
in. DONE. Works every time. John
Hardware
Mighty Putty Wood? No I'm not joking.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/home_journal_news/4302651.html
martin
here's a major hole fix I did for a headless screw:
http://iobium.com/fixing_a_headless_screw.htm
I used marine epoxy for the area fill, and a bamboo skewer to replace
the wood fiber around the hole. Both super glue and wood glue are good
for this application. They both soak into the wood fibers around the
joint, and make the hole stronger.
The wood epoxy has a better color and sands more easily, The marine
epoxy is super tough.
Rick
need to wait for it to dry.
On Oct 11, 11:50 am, rob046 <rob...@gmail.com> wrote:
rob046
>
> - Show quoted text -
I think in most cases a toothpick would work fine for me, but this is
a pretty extreme strip to where its like a funnel shaped hole (thus
even if you get the screw to stick, it can still wiggle, and for that
reason will pull right back out). I'm talking about a post on EBD
where not only is there a ton of tension, but it probably takes the
most impact of any post on the pin.
Not sure why EBD was built like this, but where most pins have those
post screws that give you space to also lay a plastic on top, EBD
doesn't do this in most places.
Literally your screws need to go through both the plastic & post for
everything to hold down. This can put serious pressure on the
plastics, especially if you got a post stripped or stripping like I
do, cuz the tension can transfer to the plastic. Unlike many other
pins, you can't just remove the plastic, remove the rubber, then
simply unscrew the post. Cuz in this case, you can't get to the
rubber via just removing the plastic, as the posts need removed in
order to remove the plastic.
Anybody with an EBD or other pin that is similar know what I'm
saying? Any tips to avoid having this issue possibly damage plastics
or my playfield (via possible screws getting flung or dragged along
the PF while unscrewing & having that tension released).
Point is, this is a bit of an untypical case. So I really wanted to
repair that area as if it had never been drilled, & start over. A
skewer or toothpick won't cut it due to the funnel shaped hole, & I'm
afraid to try more putty as if that were to strip again & make the
hole even larger, then this defect could get large enough to where the
post doesn't cover it anymore.
But you guys brought up some good ideas.
I actually think that just getting a long machine screw, putting it
all the way through the PF, then fastening it on the bottom side of
teh PF, that might be the way to go in this case to just ensure that
it stays put.
But what a pain when it comes to shopping the pin, though its already
a pain (for an early SS pin).
Craig C
I cut some of the pointy part off until i get a nice tight fit before
gluing.
sometimes i dont even wait for the glue to dry.
Never had a problem.
-c
seymour-shabow
I'd do that, but use a tnut on the bottom of the PF that way you don't
have to have a nut there.
Yes, it's a silly design that bally seemed to do a lot.
-scott CARGPB#29
FredMaine
process several times. Meaning I glued the stick in, let it try, put
the screw in, took it out. More wood and glue, let it dry. In my
case, for whatever reason, the wood compressed and would strip again
until I did it three times. Then the screw held tight.
Fred