Back Glass Touch-up question
RM
with success? Any tips on touching up that you have personally learned from experience?
TIA,
--- Rob
Ken Deel [OtherWorlds InterActive]
expert yet. (I say yet because I plan on deeply digging into all forms or
restoration for backglass art.) ..but, the issue seams to be more so with
the semi-transaprencey property of the paint. Basicaly all of the paint is
semi-transparent. And certain areas are then painted over. So matching the
paint and having it with the same value of a semi-transparencey is what you
need.
I am telling you this becasue this paint alone will need other colors to be
mixed with it and some other solution in a bottle to thin out the 'enamel'
paint to better match the glass's transparencey property. --
____________________________
Ken Deel
OtherWorlds InterActive
____________________________
http://www.OtherWorldsOnline.com
"RM" <rsm...@home.com> wrote in message news:3B9B3533...@home.com...
The_Black_Knight
Entirely dependent on the size of the damage, any larger than a quarter and
it will be noticeable, airbrush rather than brush will work the best, so you
minimze the "streaks".
--
The_Black_Knight
MGC-Pinball-Paradise
"It's Pinball on the Beach!"
http://www.geocities.com/pinball_jack
"RM" <rsm...@home.com> wrote in message news:3B9B3533...@home.com...
Mf101723
I used Testor's water-based enamel paints in the little jars, and their little
mini-sprayer attachment that screws onto the paint bottle (its a can of air
with a nozzle on it, bout 20 bucks). You mix your colors in an empty jar and
spray it on. Another tip is put a THIN coat of Krylon Clear on the area first
so you can still remove the touch up paint with a damp rag without damaging the
BG ink if you screw something up or the color is off. Or lets you thin out
your touchup by rubbing it out after drying to thin it out and increase
opacity.
I had go thru this several times on some opaque flesh tones on about a 50 cent
piece-sized spot but worked out beautifully, you can't tell it was touched up.
RM
is there a type of Krylon Clear I should use (just for this part) that is not "Tripple Thick"?
TIA,
--- Rob
Mf101723
>When you say "a thin coat of Krylon clear" do you mean a brief spraying of
>Krylob Tripple thick, or
>is there a type of Krylon Clear>
triple is ok, just don't lather it on for the initial sealing for doing paint
touchups, you dont want a thick layer there for that.
David Gersic
>I was thinking of using "Testors" model enamel paint to touch up a back glass.
Have you read Clay's web pages on backglass and playfield touchups? Start
there. Then throw the Testors away and get a good quality acryllic paint
and an inexpensive airbrush.
>Has anyone used this with success?
Here's an old post of mine, on repairing and touching up a Fireball
backglass with a BB divot about the size of a quarter in it. Fortunatly,
the BB had hit a solid colour area (orange) that was already opaque.
From: dgersic_@_niu.edu (David Gersic)
Newsgroups: rec.games.pinball
Subject: Backglass preservation tip
Date: 6 Oct 2000 01:16:08 GMT
Message-ID: <8rj94o$eag$5...@husk.cso.niu.edu>
Reply-To: dgersic_@_niu.edu (David Gersic)
Don't DROP them on the cement basement floor. It's bad for them.
I got to have the unique "pleasure" of picking up my Fireball glass with a
shop-vac last night. After about a month of evenings of working on it to
repair the BB divot hole and touch up the damaged area, I was within about
an hour of having it finished and having a very good condition glass for my
game. Now I have a pile of broken bits and peices.
Since I didn't get pictures of the touched up area before it broke, I won't
be able to complete the "before", "during" and "after" repair and
restoration with pictures. What I did, though was:
1) Clean the divot area carefully with Naptha to remove any grease, oil, or
dirt.
2) Lay the glass flat on a table, level it with a circular bubble level,
and put it up on some 3/4" particle board supports around the edges.
Front side down.
3) Press a peice of Lexan against the small entry hole in the front of the
glass. Since the glass is about 3/4" off the table, I put a piece of
foam rubber (about 1 1/2" thick) under the Lexan to keep it pressed
against the hole.
4) Mix up some Hyxtal epoxy (http://www.hisglassworks.com) acording to the
product directions. I used a couple of disposable syringes to get
reasonably accurate measurements of parts A and B. Mix carefully to
avoid making any more bubbles than necessary.
5) De-bubble the Hyxtal. I mixed it in a 35mm film canister. Then I poked
a hole in the top big enough for a large disposable syringe to be
inserted tightly. Put in the syringe and sucked out the air. I propped
the syringe plunger up with a popsicle stick and hung the whole thing
from my bench vice for about 15 minutes. Then I reduced the vacuum
slowly by letting the plunger on the syringe back in a bit, wait five
minutes, then let it back in a bit more. Repeat until no more vacuum
in the film can.
6) Pour the Hyxtal in to the back of the divot. Pour slowly, a little bit
at a time. I used the point of a pin to work the Hyxtal in to the cracks
and fissures where the glass blew out when the BB hit it. If you get
_any_ air bubbles at this step, work them out to the surface with the
pin, then pop them. Work slowly, you have lots of time; this stuff takes
24 hours to start to cure and about a week to fully cure. There's no
rush.
7) Keep pouring and working the Hyxtal in to the divot until you have
reached the top surface of the glass. The Lexan plug will keep it from
running out the hole in the bottom. At this point, I chickened out
slightly. Hyxtal won't stick to plastic very well, and I knew from my
testing on scrap glass that it peels off with only a little effort. But,
I wasn't sure if the Lexan to Hyxtal joint would be stronger or weaker
than the ink to glass bond. I had originally planned to sandwich the
Hyxtal on top with another Lexan peice to get a flat surface, but
decided against it. I left the surface of the Hyxtal slightly concave
after pouring in as much as I thought I could get away with without the
surface going convex, or the Hyxtal running out on to the ink.
8) I did put a Lexan cover over it at this point, spaced up off the glass
surface with a couple of other pieces of Lexan (about 1/8" thick). This
was to keep dust, dirt, spiders, etc. off of the Hyxtal while it cured.
I left this to harden and cure completely. As it turned out, I waited
a couple of months, but only a couple of weeks should be sufficient.
9) I peeled the Lexan cover off the front of the glass. A little bit of
Hyxtal had managed to leak out via capillary action and had formed a
_very_ thin circle around the hole. I thought about trying to get this
off, but decided to leave it as it was only visible by turning the glass
so that the light reflected off it. In normal use, it would be
invisible.
10)The damage was in the orange area of the artwork, down by the Player 4
score reel windows. Fortunatly, in an opaque area, with no other colours
damaged. I matched the colour (approx. 5:1 mix of Scarlet (Napthol AS)
to Cadmium Yellow Medium Hue / Brilliant Yellow, Liquitex brand "Artist
Colour - Medium Viscosity" acryllic paint) and used an airbrush to touch
up the back surface of the Hyxtal. It took two coats to cover, but the
colour match was perfect. The only way the repair was visible was to
backlight the area.
11)(Never got to this part). The next part of the plan was to use silver
paint to opaque the repaired area. Instead, I decided that the two
little chips in the yellow down by the player up lights might as well
be touched up too, since those would be easy compared to what I had just
done to get the orange repaired. I was turning the glass face up to
work on colour matching the yellow when it slipped. The rest is history.
I am pretty sure that I have pictures up through step #9 or so. I don't
recall if I took pictures of the orange after I had painted it, or if I
only got a picture of the glass after I peeled off the Lexan before I
started painting it. I did not take pictures of the bits of backglass
all over my basement, or of the shop vac.
Lessons learned:
1) Backglasses _can_ be touched up. Opaque is easier than translucent,
though.
2) An airbrush works wonders on areas that would not look right with a
brush. Especially on glass where the brushstrokes will be magnified by
the lighting. Even a cheap airbrush (Testors, $30, Wal Mart) is good
enough for this.
3) Hyxtal is advertised as being optically the same as glass. It is. I
have some of the pieces still where the repaired divot was, and they
look pretty good despite having shattered. It's expensive, but if you
have to repair a backglass, it's cheaper than replacing it.
4) Practice, practice, practice. I used up a lot of paint on some scrap
glass in figuring out how to do this.
5) If you're painting bare glass, prep it first with a 50:50 solution of
airbrush thinner and gloss medium. This helps give the colour something
to stick to. Liquitex recommends this.
6) DON'T DROP THE FREAKIN' THING!
>Any tips on touching up that you have personally learned from experience?
See #6, above. Try not to drop it when you get done touching it up.
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|David Gersic dgersic_@_niu.edu |
|Systems Programmer Northern Illinois University |
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Cliff Tucker
glass after what was a very very very minor tap while trying to put the
thing back into the machine backbox!! Makes the vacuum cleaner quite heavy
afterwards!, I recon the glass is heavier in a million pieces than it is as
a complete solid piece.
The damn thing exploded in the blink of an eye, one second it was there, the
next gone forever. I don't know but I swear that backglass glass has the
ability to explode in such a way as to spread its pieces into every nilk and
cranny invisible to the naked eye for 20 meters or more!
You should post the before, during and post apocalypse shots.
CliffT
"David Gersic" <dgersic_@_niu.edu> wrote in message
news:9nhqhq$bvh$2...@husk.cso.niu.edu...
RM
The horror.
-- Rob
David Gersic
>I feel for you on the back glass. I have just finished vacuuming up my back
>glass after what was a very very very minor tap while trying to put the
>thing back into the machine backbox!!
If it exploded like that, it must have been tempered. Fireball used regular
plate glass, so there were lots of large shards with a bunch of little
chips and dust-sized bits that I'm *still* finding, despite vacuuming,
sweeping, and mopping the area.
>The damn thing exploded in the blink of an eye, one second it was there, the
>next gone forever. I don't know but I swear that backglass glass has the
>ability to explode in such a way as to spread its pieces into every nilk and
>cranny invisible to the naked eye for 20 meters or more!
Yep. It's usually playfield glasses that get described this way. *Poof*
>You should post the before, during and post apocalypse shots.
I didn't take any post shots. I just couldn't. I'll get around to getting
the before and during shots one of these days.
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
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|David Gersic dgersic_@_niu.edu |
|Systems Programmer Northern Illinois University |
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| "Virtual" means never knowing where your next byte is coming from. |