Question: Rebuilding Pops
joh...@comcast.net
Quick question, I tore down the playfield to bare wood (topside). I
wanted to buff the pf. When removing the pops, I simply cut the
conductive strip so that they could be removed from the pf (the
staples were ridiculously impossible). Anyway, when replacing the
parts, what's the best way to re attach the conductive strips?
I could think of the following?
1) Just join with solder
2) Jump with a wire and solder
3) Find the same stuff somewhere and overlap it...solder at joins
Any thoughts? If that stuff is available does anyone know where to
grab it? I'm just about to put an order in with Terry for a bunch of
other stuff but could not find it anywhere.
Thanks,
John
Taylor-VA
If you are talking about the leads to the lights, they are part of the
socket assembly. I would take a picture of the underside of the
playfield and replace exactly as they were. Note diode direction if
there are any. As for staples, I bought an upholstery stapler from
Pinrestore but you could pull out the original ones with needle nose
pliers and replace into the same holes. I would use a touch of glue to
help seating the staple. Hope this helps.
Good luck. - Taylor
dino...@yahoo.com
Use these:
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=299&parent=71
Much easier than the "regular" sockets. I have a bunch of these on
hand so that if I shop a game (for me a shop is a complete playfield
teardown) I replace the old sockets with these. I also replace the
entire pop bumper assembly. (Body, base, both yokes, plastic spoon,
skirt, cap, springs, coil sleeve)
If you are going to buff the playfield and don't have automotive
products handy, try out Allen's (www.treasure-cove.net) polishing kit.
It is similar to buffing compound. I've used it (along with 2000 grit
wet sandpaper) to buff out some scratches in my car.
Dino
www.thetheos.com
Taylor-VA
>
> - Show quoted text -
I would have to disagree with you on the sockets. While being
insulated I found those sockets to sit to high in the pop bumper body
causing the bulb to touch the cap. I found the originals, while maybe
taking a little more time to install, allowed for the bulb to sit
properly into the body. You can get the insulating tube from
Pinrestore. Of course opinions will vary on this, but IMHO I would go
with the flat original style leads.
-Taylor
John Wart, jr
for me too!
--
--john
CARGPB34
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
"Taylor-VA" <tkr...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1193622926.1...@z9g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
pincredible
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> I would have to disagree with you on the sockets. While being
> insulated I found those sockets to sit to high in the pop bumper body
> causing the bulb to touch the cap. I found the originals, while maybe
> taking a little more time to install, allowed for the bulb to sit
> properly into the body. You can get the insulating tube from
> Pinrestore. Of course opinions will vary on this, but IMHO I would go
> with the flat original style leads.
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
I also prefer the original lamp sockets for the very same reason.
It's not hard to put these back in, just desolder the GI wire from the
flat lead, careful pry up the staples (I prefer to use an angled awl),
not all the way out, just enough to get the new flat lead under them,
resolder and you're done.
Jeremy
joh...@comcast.net
clear with my question. I used snips to cut the leads under the
playfield so that I could pull the pop bumper assembly topside. So
if I use the original pop sockets I will be feading the lead back
under the pf and was wondering if anyone had some suggestions on
rejoining the leads where I snipped them. Does anyone offer the
original flat lead material so that I could simply bridge the two
original leads under pf with some solder?
John Wart, jr
only way to reuse these is carefully desolder the leads, pull the staples
(or lift them far enough you can slide the wire out) and replace them, then
tap the staples back in and resolder them.
Unfortunately, to do this job 'right', you need all 3 pop bumper brackets,
coils and switches out of the way.
--
--john
CARGPB34
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
<joh...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1193623771.3...@v3g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
dino...@yahoo.com
wrote:
> I would have to agree with Taylor here. The original style work a lot better
> for me too!
>
> --
> --john
>
> CARGPB34http://www.myhomegameroom.com
>
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> > I would have to disagree with you on the sockets. While being
> > insulated I found those sockets to sit to high in the pop bumper body
> > causing the bulb to touch the cap. I found the originals, while maybe
> > taking a little more time to install, allowed for the bulb to sit
> > properly into the body. You can get the insulating tube from
> > Pinrestore. Of course opinions will vary on this, but IMHO I would go
> > with the flat original style leads.
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
I've found that pulling the wires from underneath the pf pretty
tightly makes them sit at about the same level as the originals. They
will be a tad higher but none of mine touch the bumper cap.
If these bumpers are hard to get to (ie You have to remove other
things to get to them) you might want to think about LED's. Check out:
www.bcspinball.com
Dino
www.thetheos.com
