Tech: IJ Cabinet Decal Install?
Ken
Take a look: http://members.aol.com/KHSJSILVER/ij.jpg
I have been reading tons of posts on installation process and I have a couple
of questions.
1. There has been much debate about using the "windex" method vs. the "dry"
method. I certainly see the benefits of both methods. Has anyone tried using
a combination of both methods?? For example, peel a small section at the
begining of the decal, use windex on this beginning section of the decal until
you get it aligned properly, then peel the rest of the decal and adhere it
using the dry method. Anyone have any thoughts about this??
2. When preparing the IJ cabinet, should there be another coat of something
after the primer/sealer?
If you have any other tips on the process, I would love to hear them! Thanks
for your help.
Ken in Princeton
TZ, STTNG & IJ
Bryan Kelly
>I just got an Indiana Jones and it is in desparate need of new cabinet
>decals.
>
>Take a look: http://members.aol.com/KHSJSILVER/ij.jpg
>
> I have been reading tons of posts on installation process and I have a
>couple
>of questions.
>
>1. There has been much debate about using the "windex" method vs. the "dry"
>method. I certainly see the benefits of both methods. Has anyone tried
>using
>a combination of both methods?? For example, peel a small section at the
>begining of the decal, use windex on this beginning section of the decal
>until
>you get it aligned properly, then peel the rest of the decal and adhere it
>using the dry method. Anyone have any thoughts about this??
There really is no best way. Use whichever method you're comfortable with. I
do kind of like your idea about wet and dry. I don't know why it wouldn't
work.
>
>2. When preparing the IJ cabinet, should there be another coat of something
>after the primer/sealer?
Just paint all the cabinet edges black.
Bryan (Goose Lurker, CARGPB14)
CraigC -Chicago-
trying to seal the grain so it doesnt transfer through. In the process
of heatgunning it off there is the possibility that you'll raise the
grain in certain areas. even though it'll feel smooth one way with your
hand, rubbing the other way could cause that piece to pop up a bit and
it'll cause a spec that will transfer through the decal. I would coat
the cabinet and give it a light sanding following up with a tac cloth.
Then after the decal is applied and trimmed use the decal backing and
mask off everything that you dont want cabinet black...and finish up.
This will take care of the white edge of the decal real nice. and is
the best method for doing header decals since when you razor them off
you'll scratch up any paintwork you would have already done.
I'm 100% the dry method. if you peel back the decal and cut the backing
in the middle then it makes it 100 times easier. take your time and
line it up perfectly, then have a pal hold one side of the decal really
tight. peel from the middle and work the decal from the center...once
you get a few inches in then there's no going back and you can smooth
the rest out. and then do the other half of the decal. the time spent
is in the initial lining up the decal and there's no squeegee, no
water, no worrying about bubbles.
This is the method that has worked for me and after 4 sets of decals i
don't see the need to change since I'm comfortable with it.
Try it on your friend's machine first ;)
-CraigC
Chad Keller
Robert Winter
coin door decals. The placement is just too critical.
I started using the dry method on other decals out of necessity. I
found that certain non-IPB made decals had a tendency to *wick* the
Windex at the edge of the decal (think a paper towel soaking up a drop
of water). Nothing major, but it did cause a slight deformation near
the edges that luckily went away when it had fully dried. I believe
this was becuase it was printed on thick paper stock, not vinyl.
When I do the dry method on the cabinet sides, I cut off about 12" of
the backing paper and apply the decal fron the center out, much like
what Criag has described. I usually do this by myself with careful
planning and triple-checking of placement before committing.
Each method has it's pros and cons. I would recommend using the wet
method if this is your first time as it's more forgiving than the dry
technique.
In case you haven't seen it, this is how I did my CC decal jobs -
http://www.robertwinter.com/pinball/restorations/cc/cabinet/index.html
Robert
----
http://www.robertwinter.com
CraigC -Chicago-
start button centered and poke a nail through it. then i line up the
decal making sure that the nail is in the center of the start button
hole. On cabinets like high speed where the shifter is more important
i'll line that up instead. If you take your time and tripple check
everythng i find it smooth going. you definetely need someone else to
help you out with the coin door decal since it's a) the most critical
and b) the easiest to shift on you. I have done side decals dry by
myself, had to have the wife help out on the coin doors ;)
-c
PCFree
called Rapid-Tac and is available at most sign supply warehouses. It
is a triple use product. First, it is used to clean the surface,
second, it helps with working out bubbles ( I position the graphic
first with the backing on, then use masking tape to mark the edges),
finally, spray it on the backing and it loosens the adhesive holding
the paper to the front of the decal. I did my first decal on a Monza
Spyder dry and completly ruined it with bubbles. I've don Trans-Am
eagles and nothing out there is more difficult to get right. (Except
maybe wood-grain on the old station wagons)
Bryan Kelly
What I found with the front decal is, because of the coin door hole, it's
difficult to keep from getting wrinkles in the decal. The decal has a tendency
to want to fall into the hole. I've got some pics of how I solved that problem
and how I start my decal installs. And I also do them dry.
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins
Click on MB restoration. :-)
Ceegary
dead-on straight because it was possible to make minor adjustments, can't
see the reason to do dry.
GRY
"Bryan Kelly" <bske...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20041222110234...@mb-m05.aol.com...
Ken
I'll let everyone know when I finish. I'll also post some before and after
pictures.
Thanks again,