Pop Bumpers - Do most people just re-staple the leads down again?
robatki
bigger than factory size.
I clipped the leads at their very ends where the solder glob was.
Any opinions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rob
PDX_Pinball
No way, those staples are are a pain in the but. I use those new lamp
sockets with the long wire leads and just solder those to the GI wire.
Bob
pincredible
if you don't have a pneumatic upholstery fine wire stapler, you can
carefully pry up the center of the staple without completely removing
it from the pf, then pull out the lead and replace with a new socket,
feed the leads back under the staples, and tap them down with a block
or something. I do not prefer the sockets with wire leads because the
bulb sits (high) too close to the cap and can cause it to become
disfigured.
Jeremy
Beemus
blade screw driver. Replace socket and run new leads under same
staples as original. Carefully then put the staple side that I lifted
out back into its original whole using small needle nosed plyers.
Space-Bo
Right or wrong, I just bend them back half assed and solder the leads
back on. My backward logic is that since their not quite so firmly
locked down, there's not so much vibration to fatigue the
filiment....yea right...I guess I'm just lazy ;-)
I thought about re-stapling too...for about five seconds... until I
figured out that there's no way a staple gun can get anywhere near the
leads.
DD
Taylor-VA
I take all pop components off the underside. I now have a fine wire
stapler and use that but before I would carefully remove the original
staple with needle nose pliers. Once removd and the new bulb leads
were back down I would add a dab of CA glue to the staple and reseat
it in the original staple holes.
As far as the new style leads, I don't like them, they do sit higher
and the original style still works, just make sure to insulate where
it may come into contact with other metal.
There are also bulbs that withstand more vibration. I got some from
Pinbits but cannot remember the style. Rebuilding your pops is worth
every painful second.
cody chunn
--
-cody
CARGPB4
"robatki" <ro...@blueskyimg.com> wrote in message
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joh...@comcast.net
they do sit up higher, but it hasn't been an issue, especially in home
use.
Mrhide
> if you don't have a pneumatic upholstery fine wire stapler, you can
> carefully pry up the center of the staple without completely removing
> it from the pf, then pull out the lead and replace with a new socket,
> feed the leads back under the staples, and tap them down with a block
> or something. I do not prefer the sockets with wire leads because the
> bulb sits (high) too close to the cap and can cause it to become
> disfigured.
>
> Jeremy
I've *just* came back from home depot, I had the pneumatic upholstery
in my hands and I had brought an old staple ( from pharaoh's gi ) to
compare and since they did not have the right staple, I put it back
and bought "arrow's 1/4" staple and I'll bang them up with a
hammer ... (the playfield has nothing on it at this point)
*sigh* should have bought pinrestore.com staples and gun ! sorry
Scott!
Taylor-VA
I got mine from Scott and it is great. Worth getting for the next one.
It is also great for ground braid or anything in cabinet that gets
stapled. A great tool.
lcwo...@yahoo.com
When you use those new type sockets with the long wires, how do you
stabilize the light socket inside the pop bumper body?
Larry..
Steve Kulpa
steve
---
Steve Kulpa (cargpb10)
Hermitage, TN
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/faces/rgpidx.htm - Faces
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/pinball.htm - Pinball
robatki
> Me too
>
> steve
> ---
> Steve Kulpa (cargpb10)
>
> On Nov 30, 7:11 pm, "cody chunn" <cchu...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Like others, I too loosen original staples and feed new leads under.
Well, I left the old staples in and just slid the leads under. Butt I
had to cut them toward their ends because the solder was all built up.
Putting new staples in would no be a problem since I stripped the
playfield completely down for a clearcoat. I just don't want to have
to buy a new stapler.
-Rob
John Wart, jr
so much!
--
--john
CARGPB34
http://www.myhomegameroom.com
<lcwo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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cody chunn
not mandatory.
Yes, the original leads often have slobber-solder on them and if I can't get
it all off with a solder-sucker I snip em off. I always use new wedge base
sockets with flat leads from Pinball Resource in rebuilds anyway, so no big
loss clipping them. Just remember if you go with those to install the socket
with the body pressed against the side of the pop bumber body so it can lean
over a bit and not touch the cap.
--
-cody
CARGPB4
"robatki" <ro...@blueskyimg.com> wrote in message
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Steve Kulpa
You'll then thank me later and wonder how you ever got along without
it.
steve
---
Steve Kulpa (cargpb10)
Hermitage, TN
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/faces/rgpidx.htm - Faces
http://www.geocities.com/stevekulpa/pinball.htm - Pinball
Bryan Kelly
many non-pinball related uses for it around the house. Of course,
you'll then have to buy a compressor. But you should have one of
those already.
A man's not a man unless he has a compressor. <insert male grunting
sounds here> ;-)
Bryan (CARGPB 14)
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins
Home of the EXECUTIVE Pin Footie http://www.pinfooties.com
On Nov 30, 8:40�pm, robatki <r...@blueskyimg.com> wrote:
Don
bought the one from Pinrestore and LOVE it. Makes the job a piece of
cake. Plus there is the added "fun" factor of using air tools on your
pin. Watch out if you have any 11 year olds around. My daughter
wanted to take it and staple everything in the basement!
- Don
In article
<d641161a-c567-40ab...@y5g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>,
audihere
instruction sheets at the bottom of the cabinet to name a couple of things.
Chris
"Taylor-VA" <tkr...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:c6c85ddb-28cb-4a5a...@b15g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
PDX_Pinball
> You don't, that's why they suck. After trying them, I don't mind the staples
> so much!
>
> --
> --john
They do suck compared to stapled sockets. You have to push the socket
down in order to get the cap on. But... they aren't *that* noticeable
and a heck of a lot easier. If your game is a 'player' and it's not a
big deal to you, these are nice.
Bob
Aussie Mark
I used the newer style because the others are difficult to find and
also the stapling issue - I did try to re-use the old sockets by
raising the staples a little but after 2 of the staples broke, I
needed a better solution.
When I used the newer style it was difficult to get them to sit flat
in the base of the pop bumper body and the globe was actually touching
both the cap and the sides of the socket. Two of the 3 pop bumper
globes blew in the first few weeks probably from the vibrations from
the body.
I then spoke with Wayne and he had 2 good suggestions which I am
trying right now.... first use side cutters to snip a small bit of the
plastic base from the sides of the socket which allows the wires to
feed easier out the sides and the socket can then sit flatter. Next
silicon the base of the socket in the bottom of the body so that it
will stay upright and not come in contact with the sides of the body.
Finally I bought some of the Eiko #259s from Pinbits, which I
understand are basically the same as #555s but with a stronger
filament so can handle vibration better.
All this is a bit of a pain and as yet haven't got my game back
together to see how well it works but the last thing I want to have to
do is take my MM ramps off every few weeks to replace pop bumper
globes :)
Mark.
spclwhenlit
I always dread rebuilding pop bumpers, because of the MAJOR hassle it
can be to replace, resolder, and restaple the lamp leads. This time
around I tried something different.
Instead of trying to reuse the old staples, or restaple the new lamp
leads, I just removed them. Then I used ź" clear vinyl tubing, cut to
the proper length, to insulate and protect the lamp leads, held down
with ź" nylon clamps, screwed into the playfield. You could probably
get by without a clamp on any lead that runs under the pop bumper coil
bracket.
The ź" tubing seems a little big, but it's big enough to contain 2
wires, and will fit snugly in the pop bumper holes underneath the
playfield. I trimmed the lamp leads only as long as I thought they
needed to be to clear other parts, and cut the tubing long enough so
that it would more than cover the end of the lamp leads. Don't forget
to slide the tubing on the wires before you resolder the lamp leads!
It made the whole job a *lot* easier, quicker, and I think better
insulated.
You should be able to get the ź" clear vinyl tubing at home depot or
lowe's; I paid $2.29 for 20 ft. Likewise, I paid $1.04 for a pack of
(12) ź" nylon clamps at lowe's.
Hope this helps.
Keep Pinball Alive!
(Stick a dash between ship and mates @ hotmail.com)
PT
Same here Cody. Works great for me.
I only lift one of the two staples and cut the old socket wire between
the two staples. This leaves a small piece of the old socket wire
attached to the insulated wire held in place by the second staple.
Then slide the new socket wire under the lifted staple and crimp new
socket to the remaining piece of the old socket with a needlenose.
All that's left is to put a dab of solder on and it's done. No
cursing involved (unless you are working on a Safecracker).
John
robatki
My plan is to buy new, original sockets with leads. Then I will buy a
staple gun and re-staple. You can never have too many tools!
-Rob
cody chunn
ends of the leads with your dikes. Instead of looking like this: ] make them
look like this >, then they will feed through the bumper body holes without
snagging and bending. Be careful though, cause they'll poke a hole in your
finger once they're through!
--
-cody
CARGPB4
"PT" <zeec...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
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