Jurassic Park - No 5V, Left Sling "Held" and Blowing F5
Matt
Got a multi-issue (?) Jurassic Park Data East to figure out, if you
can help me out a little.
First of all, we check all fuses. Replace blown F5 (on board below the
power supply, whatever that is called) and it immediately blows
again.
Going earlier in the chain, no 5V on TP1 on power supply. Work has
been done on this PS before...looks fairly pro.
Finally, I replaced another dead fuse on the PS itself and suddenly
the left sling fires but is held on.
Someone socketed that little IC on the power supply, but I am
wondering what the big culprit might be here. I think I read the
transistor on the huge heat sink or something else...
Any ideas?
I guess it is kind of multipart, and that sling being held is either
related or not...I just wanted to throw it into the mix of previous
advice I found to see if I need to still do that advice or if it needs
to be tempered by the fact that this sling obviously has a bad
transistor or something.
Thank you.
- Matt
Lloyd Olson
No 5 volt - check it's fuse, fuse holder, and bridge rectifier on the power
supply board. LTG :)
"Matt" <sirmis...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ce9d23b3-ac1f-40e9...@j24g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
GPE
"Lloyd Olson" <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message
news:rLGdnWCFpeFlmmLX...@skypoint.com...
> Left sling held on - replace it's transistor.
>
> No 5 volt - check it's fuse, fuse holder, and bridge rectifier on the
> power supply board. LTG :)
Yes, exactly as Lloyd said -- make sure you have power going to the
regulator before working on the regulator!!!
Ed
Matt
> "Lloyd Olson" <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message
>
> news:rLGdnWCFpeFlmmLX...@skypoint.com...
>
> > Left sling held on - replace it's transistor.
>
> > No 5 volt - check it's fuse, fuse holder, and bridge rectifier on the
> > power supply board. LTG :)
>
> Yes, exactly as Lloyd said -- make sure you have power going to the
> regulator before working on the regulator!!!
>
> Ed
>
>
>
>
>
> >news:ce9d23b3-ac1f-40e9...@j24g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...
> >> Gents,
>
> >> Got a multi-issue (?) Jurassic Park Data East to figure out, if you
> >> can help me out a little.
>
> >> First of all, we check all fuses. Replace blown F5 (on board below the
> >> power supply, whatever that is called) and it immediately blows
> >> again.
>
> >> Going earlier in the chain, no 5V on TP1 on power supply. Work has
> >> been done on this PS before...looks fairly pro.
>
> >> Finally, I replaced another dead fuse on the PS itself and suddenly
> >> the left sling fires but is held on.
>
> >> Someone socketed that little IC on the power supply, but I am
> >> wondering what the big culprit might be here. I think I read the
> >> transistor on the huge heat sink or something else...
>
> >> Any ideas?
>
> >> I guess it is kind of multipart, and that sling being held is either
> >> related or not...I just wanted to throw it into the mix of previous
> >> advice I found to see if I need to still do that advice or if it needs
> >> to be tempered by the fact that this sling obviously has a bad
> >> transistor or something.
>
> >> Thank you.
>
> >> - Matt
Ed,
The regulator is the 14 pin chip, correct? Where/what pin would I
check for the correct voltage?
Thanks,
Matt
Matt
Gents, I am feeling a little overwhelmed on this JP and could really
use some help sorting my thoughts out.
So I am fooling around with it last night, and if you recall the left
sling was held on.
I took out the power supply and - while I could not get it's wide-
footed bridge rectifier out, it seemed to test fine (?) in diode
check, but in-circuit of course. I swapped out that 14 pin voltage
regulator chip with a new one "just in case." Recall the power supply
was not putting out 5V.
I go back to the game and I plug nothing into the power supply except
the two "power feed' wires (that come from the power supply itself).
The left sling no longer holds "on," but now the raptor pit kicker and
the upkicker to the far right (right "VUK"? Corresponds to switch 61 I
believe) is holding up, until the F5 5Amp fuse on the PPB. That fuse
blowing on the PPB has been going on since the start.
I did the pinrepair test for stuck transistors (meter on continuity
buzz, one lead on ground strap of backbox, other lead touch the tab of
each transistor). Not a single one buzzes out of all banks of them.
Great.
So the only thing I didn't do was test the 5V again, as I was awash in
schematics and this and that.
I am at a loss as to what to attack now. Those held solenoids are a
little scary.
I guess F5 on the PPB is the 50V fuse?? Does that mean there is some
problem with 50V's??
Thank you,
Matt
c...@provide.net
Ok just stop. Stop removing parts. stop everything.
You can test the bridge rectifer without removing
it from the power supplyboard.
black DMM lead to + bridge leg,
red DMM leads to adjacent bridge legs. should be
.4 to .6 volts. Then red DMM lead to - bridge leg,
black DMM leads to adjacent bridge legs. should be
.4 to .6 volts.
check the fuse AND fuse holders. with the fuses
installed, press firmly on the center of the fuse.
if the holder "V"'s out, replace the fuse clips.
check the two 5 volt fuses on the power supply
by removing and use a DMM set to continuity.
examine the power supply board for any
cracked solder joints on the male connector
pins. resolder as needed.
at this point if everything checks out and
you still have no 5 volts, do the easy stuff
first. Change the two small capacitors
(50mfd and 100mfd) just below the large
heat sink. retest the power supply.
report back here.
Matt
Clay,
Thanks for the slap-down lol, I think I needed it.
I went ahead and did the fuse clip test, and a couple of fuse clips on
the board actually broke. So I replaced them and their corresponding
clips (since the pinrepair recommended part numbers sit far lower than
the original clips).
Recall I had put a new 723 IC in there previously, and then I
resoldered all of the relevant connectors with a full removal of old
solder and a clean, shiny application of new solder.
I replaced them in the game and still no 5V, although I do now hear a
sound upon startup, but it's more like the swish of a relay "newly"
clicking.
Anyhow, I did not find the two capacitors at 50V and 100V...I found
one that was 1000V I believe in the vicinity, etc. and I did find a
50V, but no 100V...any way to tell me what "C" numbers you are talking
about, Clay?
Thanks,
Matt J.
--------------
p.s. If any hints are needed as to how this game may have gotten as
apparently hosed as it did - as far as hints from PPB problems, I
replaced the held raptor pit and right VUK solenoid TIP36's, as well
as "preemptively" replacing the corresponding 2n4401's and TIP102's on
the CPU. They no longer hold.
However, now that left sling is back to holding on, and suddenly there
are three lights lighting up brightly on the playfield:
(from top down)
The lowest left flash lamp
The left raptor head
The left outlane
They burn more brightly than you would expect.
So this clearly a multi-problem game...
DJ
>
> - Show quoted text -
If the transistors keep blowing then the corresponding coil could be
shorted. It would be worth measuring all the coils resistances.
If some lamps are faulty then you could have a faulty tip42 on the
lamp matrix. I have also had several boards where the 6821 for the
lamp matix had outputs which were stuck high. To test this you can the
steps on Clay's site and use Leon's test rom and a logic probe.
Are you measuring the 5V on the pins at the top of the power supply?
If you get 5v here but not on the main logic, you could check both
parts of the CN1 connector for burnt contacts and also on the back as
for dry joints as Clay suggested.
Matt
Well last I tested was the "curly" little test point loops, which are
right on the main traces, and it had no 5V. I would like to get
confirmation on which caps Clay was referring to so I may try those
next...
Everything else SEEMS to be in order...
- Matt
Matt
If you can help me a second I would appreciate it because I have done
my level best to no avail on this Data East power supply.
Below you said "Change the two small capacitors (50mfd and 100mfd)
just below the large
heat sink. retest the power supply. "
I found plenty of capacitors below the large heatsink, but I only
found one that fits either of those values. Can you tell me perhaps
what the "C" numbers are for the caps you are talking about that would
possibly create NOT having 5V?
Thank you.
- Matt J.
p.s. I put a known working transistor in there as well as IC, neither
worked. Also swapped the bridge rectifier for one that was new and
testing good out of circuit.
Finally, put a known working supply in the game and it booted fine.
Thank you.
On Nov 26, 11:51 am, "c...@provide.net" <c...@provide.net> wrote:
Matt
> > > > > >> can help me out a little.
>
> > > > > >> First of all, we check all fuses. Replace blown F5 (on board below the
> > > > > >> power supply, whatever that is called) and it immediately blows
> > > > > >> again.
>
Gentlemen,
As an update to this thread, I manned up and stared some more. I found
what Clay was talking about: there is a 100uf 25v cap right below the
big heatsink on the Data East power supply and below THAT is the
1000uf 25v cap. I was thinking they were both adjacent to the mega-
heatsink, but no...they are just grouped together next to one another.
Anyhow, I did notice that the 1000uf cap had a bulging top! This
apparently (from googling it) signifies...wait for it...a failed
capacitor. So I am awaiting that cap along with the rest of my parts
order in the mail, and will report results.
Thanks,
Matt
Matt
It was the "bulging" capacitor (1000uf). Replaced and it works like a
charm.
Thank you all, thanks Cliff, thank you RGP!
- Matt
btrip
I thought his name was Clay?