vettehead75 <vette...@aol.com> wrote in message
"vettehead75" <vette...@aol.com> wrote in message
You don't need a manual for this. Go into tests, then into solenoid tests,
advance to left magnet and hit enter, then push the start button, then hit the
+ button on the diagnostic switches on the coin door. It will tell you wire
colors, hit the + again and you get the connector number, hit it again and you
get the transistors.
Get a manual though when you can.
Lloyd Olson <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message
Dave Schulpius <dschu...@wi.rr.com> wrote in message
The information I got definitely was from Ray Johnson's site. The link is
http://www.aros.net/~rayj/action/taf4/pf8.jpg, but it does not work anymore.
Ray also had a write-up on his site to go with the picture. Ray, can you
make that information available again?
"Lloyd Olson" <l...@ssbilliards.com> wrote in message
Thanks again! Dave
Website was updated recently so the game/info in question can now be found
There is one pic of the modified wiring/fuseblock. But there wasn't really
a write-up or "how to" on this mod. Basically the solution is to wire 1
fuse inline with each magnet. You can do a "quickie" job, or spend some
time and do a nice tidy good-looking organized job. Our mod on the above
game took quite a while and a lot of work as we integrated the new fuses
into the wiring and existing IDC connector on the driver board in matching
original wire colors, and did some re-routing and re-grouping of the wiring
harnesses for a "factory" look, while focusing on servicability should the
assembly ever need to be removed or repaired in the future.
3A slow-blow is an acceptable value. Leave the original 5a slow-blow fuse
in place, or you could theoretically bypass it if you wish.
Action Pinball & Amusement, LLC
Salt Lake City, Utah USA
We're serious about pinball. Anything else is just for fun!