CARGPB Speaker Upgrade
metallik
others, I humbly submit documentation of my "cheap ass" speaker upgrade
for those of us who aren't afraid to tear into things and do it right.
Guaranteed to sound better than any unamplified alternative or I'll
refund every cent you paid me! :) This is NOT as complicated as it
looks, and can be done in a few hours. Sorry, but we're cheap and
budget only allows for one picture...
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Get a PC power cord, cut the plug end off and splice it into the
mains power. Black to black, white to white, green to the ground
screw.
2. Get a PC power supply ($free, find a junker computer somewhere. AT
preferred).
3. Get a 4-channel automotive power booster with EQ and high-level
(speaker level) input. The model shown costs around $33 online and
works great for this application.
Bolt these to the cabinet however you wish. Or just let them sit
there, but be sure to remove them before moving the game. Don't plug
the mains cord into the power supply til you're done.
4. Power the amp. Take one peripheral connector from the power supply
(red, yellow and 2 black wires). Cut the molex connector off, also cut
the red and one black wire off short, leaving you one black and one
yellow. Connect the yellow wire to the +12V wire on the amp (usually a
red wire). Save the black wire for later. Cut off all other wires
from the powersupply (if it is an ATX powersupply, connect the green
wire in the motherboard bundle to any black wire to hotwire it 'always
on'. If an AT supply, toggle the manual switch on).
Wiring up the input leads:
5. Cut the wires going to the factory sub off as close to the speaker
as possible.
6. Cut the wires going to the left backbox speaker, then connect
speaker wire to these wires (on the side going to the sound board, not
the side going to the speakers) and bring this down to the amp.
Basically we're just extending the backbox speaker wire to the amp in
the cabinet. Be sure to keep polarity (striped wire) consistient.
7. This amp uses a common ground, so to connect the speaker level
inputs, take the striped wire from the factory subwoofer and connect it
to the positive left-channel input wire (5). Take the striped wire
from the backbox and connect it to the positive right-channel input
wire (6). Now take both non-striped wires, both negative input wires
from the amp AND the black wire from step 4 and connect them all
together (7).
8. Install big honkin' subwoofer. The model shown is a Pyramid 8" that
cost around $25. If you use an 8" sub, you will have to remove the
mounting board (9) and enlarge the hole, or replace it with another
board with an already-enlarged hole if you don't want to saw up factory
parts. You should NOT have to enlarge the hole in the actual cabinet
unless you want even more bass. This is personal preference - Korn has
measured output and enlarging the actual cabinet hole will improve bass
output even more. If you do not enlarge the hole in the mounting board
and use an 8" sub, the speaker foam will hit the board, resulting in
bad sound. The mounting board is just glued (poorly) and stapled, so it
should pry up easily. Be sure to re-fasten it down *securely* when
reattaching it... :)
10. Connect the FRONT-LEFT output from the amp to the cabinet
subwoofer. Pay attention to polarity.
11. Connect the REAR-RIGHT output from the amp to the backbox speaker
pair. You'll have to run another wire pair back up to the backbox to
do this. Connect it to the speakers where you cut the wire previously
for the input, or to new speakers if you've replaced them.
Plug in the mains to the power supply, make sure the switch is on (AT)
or the softswitch green wire is shorted to ground (ATX).
Installation done!
Fire up the game, set the game volume to a comfortable listening level
(ha!) and use the fader and EQ to adjust the sound to your liking.
BENEFITS TO THIS METHOD:
- Amplified sound. The factory amps weren't intended to drive 4 ohm
speakers, nor were they intended to crank as loud as you might want
with your new speakers. You need power for good sound.
- Cabinet/backbox balance easy to achieve. This is why we used the
left-front and right-rear outputs. You can use the fader on the amp to
adjust the cabinet(front) and backbox(rear) balance just how you like
it.
- EQ to ajust the sound just how you like it. This is important.. too
often I hear a pinballpro or other such system, and it sounds muddy or
the mids are too low or something similar. You have a 7-band EQ and can
precisely adjust the audio output to match both the game's soundtrack
and your personal preferences. Dial up the lowest bass on boom games
like DemoMan, get the mid bass punch up on AFM. Enhance the highs or
dial them down.. it's up to you.
- Cheap. All this junk still costs less than a simple PinballPro kit.
- Great for the sound board. No soldering to get low-level input, no
over-driving amps. You don't even have to *touch* that expensive WPC95
A/V board (or DCS or whatever's back there). Since we're using an
external power booster, the game's volume is actually set lower than it
usually is, putting less stress on the factory amps. Amplified AFM on
14 is louder than unamplified at 20.
Enjoy!
metallik
those other 5 ground wires in the last part of step 7. You can see
this in the pic. D'oh.
Kansas Pinball
metallik wrote:
> > In response to the 'high end' speaker upgrade being developed by
> > others, I humbly submit documentation of my "cheap ass" speaker upgrade
> > for those of us who aren't afraid to tear into things and do it right.
> > Guaranteed to sound better than any unamplified alternative or I'll
> > refund every cent you paid me! :) This is NOT as complicated as it
> > looks, and can be done in a few hours. Sorry, but we're cheap and
> > budget only allows for one picture...
> >
> > http://www.idsa.net/sub.jpg
Hmmm, nice try but I'm afraid you are being pushed out. The newly
formed Hutchins/Cubeta Inc. is working night and day to bring us a
system that will rival yours. Sorry to have to break it to you after
all that work.
Doug
kirb
suggested option-
rewire the service plug to get switched with the game. Then plug the
amp directly into the service plug and it will be switched on and off
with the game. Cleaner looking install.
Kirb
SteveM
with initials to try this?
Thanks,
Steve
metallik
> amp directly into the service plug and it will be switched on and off
> with the game. Cleaner looking install.
Yep, you can get PC cords with that service outlet type plug on the
end. This is one of the first ones I did and was going for
functionality over cleanliness (look at the rest of that mess) but your
idea is a good one.
metallik
SteveM wrote:
> So can anyone do this, or do you have to belong to a pompas ass club
> with initials to try this?
PAC members are allowed to do it, but they must send me a $50 royalty
fee in order to license the method. If they do not, Wayne send them
C&D letters until their postal carrir begs for mercy. All others get
free license, provided they do one good deed in the upcoming month.
Note that voting Democratic in November will fulfill this obligation
nicely. :D
JB
switch to control power to the utility outlet. With the switch, the outlet
could be set to always on, always off, or switched with the game's power.
Be aware that the PC power supply can draw up to 10 amps, way more than the
utility outlet is typically rated.
-JB
gpc...@yahoo.com
jealous of the work ch does
metallik
> >metallik wrote:
> > Note that voting Democratic in November will fulfill this obligation
> > nicely. :D
>
LOL.. sorry. Hey, my mod, my thread, my propoganda. At least it's
somewhat on topic. Is a side shit similar to WPT"s Sidepots? :)
> Do the speakers work under water?
Insufficient data to answer that one.
Mark Salas
Fair enough!!
...Back on topic, what is with everybody and the speakers these days. I
am trying to keep my pins quiet as I play them at night when the kids
are asleep.
If I use your system, or Garys, or Korns, I will blast my kids out of
their bunk beds.
btw, you and Boag are not C Pinbrawl players :)
metallik
> their bunk beds.
In seriousness, you can still turn the game volume down to nil using
the coindoor buttons, then turn it back up later when people aren;t in
bed.
> btw, you and Boag are not C Pinbrawl players :)
You gotta take that up with Koz :) We had no say at all.. I'm a
little surprised also, but the almighty Pinbrawl gods have decreed us
to be C level... so it has been written, so it shall be done. With our
luck, 4 Chicks will wind up kicking our ass first round anyway...
dsup...@aol.com
tops! It is a nice alternative to what others have come up with. I
really like all of the choices I have available because of what others
have put effort into improving their machines, no matter how much (or
little) money it may cost.
Brian
gpc...@yahoo.com
metallik
> That could easily be cleaned up and lookin nice in about 5 or 10 mins
> tops! It is a nice alternative to what others have come up with. I
> really like all of the choices I have available because of what others
> have put effort into improving their machines, no matter how much (or
> little) money it may cost.
Yep. I'd put that in a few months ago and have been meaning to draw up
the quick howto.. when I saw news of another unamplified upgrade in the
works, I figured I'd offer my alternative. I'm sure that other people,
if they do this, will do a cleaner job. I'll eventually clean that
install up, but right now I want to put a set in STTNG and Shadow. I
have already done Congo and DM in addition to AFM and they also sound
great... Congo has wicked bass in it's music, and the volcano eruption
for multiball has good BOOM BOOM :)
gpc...@yahoo.com
SteveM
crawl back in your mothers womb were you belong.
Thanks,
Steve
gpc...@yahoo.com
your work is ok for amatuer hour, but ch blows it away
that game is a disaster
Kansas Pinball
SIGH!
Gary, WHY do you have to continually pull Chris into this? Why do you
have to continually use him as a stick to beat people over the head?
Have you stepped back for a moment and considered what you are doing to
his reputation by constantly bashing his name into people's faces? Yes,
I'm sure the free PR is heping him get attention but I must say that
the attention has turned sour.
This is about to backfire on you Gary. It is great that you love his
work. But, it is not appropriate to use him as your personal battering
ram as you throw accusations of jealousy and insult other collectors by
saying their restorations are inferior work compared to Chris Hutchin's
work.
There are only a few people that restore pins and make a living off of
it. The rest of us simply restore our games for the personal
accomplishement and enjoyment. I highly doubt people are sitting at
their computers wishing they were Chris Hutchins or feeling jealous
about his work or for that matter, your association with him!
Do the guy a favor and give him your pins to work on, pay him his money
and post to the group that you had another pin done by Chris and
describe the condition. Other than that, lay off the Chris Hutchins is
my buddy flag-waving. It is really getting old and I think eventually,
detrimental to his reputation.
Doug
gpc...@yahoo.com
but ch just emailed me asking me to back off, so i will
Mark_in_PA
all frequencies go to all speakers with this amp. Just a thought -- I'm
no expert for sure.
playfi...@gmail.com
When will you realise that most people here love doing the whole
restore themselves. Its like your trying to live through or be CH but
in reality you probably cant change a burnt out slingshot globe or
flipper rubber. Stop trolling buddy, you sound like a spoilt brat.
metallik
Mark_in_PA wrote:
> Have you noticed any issues with the lack of a crossover? It looks like
> all frequencies go to all speakers with this amp. Just a thought -- I'm
> no expert for sure.
No issues that I can tell, and I have cranked it to
make-your-ears-bleed levels in the past. The signals (cabinet and
backbox) are already seperated at the sound board - this is why I run
the backbox signal down to the amp instead of just splitting the
cabinet signal. I believe the sound boards (at least the newer DCS
ones) already implement a basic crossover, but I may be wrong.
If a person wants, they could easily add a second amplifier. It'd use
the same powersupply as the first, and you'd just use one for the
cabinet and the other for the backbox. This gives you ultimate
flexibility, as you have seperate 7-band EQs for each and can adjust
the bass up for the cabinet and down for the backbox (vice-versa for
mids and highs) and fine tune each channel exactly how you want it.
Really though, the single amp sounds great.
Mark_in_PA
upgrading my TZ next so I'll order a couple of these amps and compare
the one vs two amp options. I'll post the results.
Thanks for posting this upgrade.
JDix
don't like them?
I know a guy who sold his business for $11 million last year. He
recently bought a first pin. He was asking me for tips about maybe
restoring it. I told him about Chris H restorations and I said he
could have it basically made like new again. His response
"Yeah, I could send it to him, but what fun is that?"
I have also told him about the type of shit you, Jeff Reynolds, Cpiel,
and the rest of the self appointed "rich boys club" peanut gallery
constantly spew out here on the newsgroup. He laughed and said
"What dipshits."
So is he jealous too????
Might be time for a new excuse. . . .
Steve C
pictures in a pdf or post some pics with the description on a website
somewhere? would probably be hit quite a hit.
stevebo
beaver
me for an upgrade on his machines. They used a 12V lamp circuit to
power the amp. Ideally, I could find a single channel 120V powered
booster, but that may be expensive. I replaced the speaker on my TOTAN
and IJ, and increased the gain on the cabinet amp. On the TOTAN, it
sounds great, however, it sounds poor on my IJ for some reason. So for
the latter, I will get an amp like you have.
I did not think about the cone hitting the bottom of the cab if you
removed the spacer block. Thanks for mentioning that.
Edward Cheung CARGPB26
www.edcheung.com
cpiel
respond.
JDix wrote:
> Why do the CH cronies always turn to jealousy
Some of your past posts *screamed* jealousy which is why you have been
pegged as such.
> as the reason people don't like them?
Who doesn't like who? I have plenty of friends on this board and have
never wronged anyone here. Have I shared my excitement when I receive
a game from Chris that took me a year to save for? Of course. Could
that be taken by some as bragging? I suppose so.
> I know a guy who sold his business for $11 million last year.
Most everyone here probably knows a millionaire or maybe even is one -
no biggie. Latching on to someone more successful than you for
credibility is lame and desperate.
> He recently bought a first pin. He was asking me for tips about maybe
> restoring it. I told him about Chris H restorations and I said he
> could have it basically made like new again.
Great, it's good to know that you made a legitimate referral.
> His response
> "Yeah, I could send it to him, but what fun is that?"
Understandable. Some people enjoy the restoration aspect, some don't
and others may enjoy it but don't feel they have the time to take it
on.
> I have also told him about the type of shit you, Jeff Reynolds, Cpiel,
> and the rest of the self appointed "rich boys club" peanut gallery
> constantly spew out here on the newsgroup.
Again, what "type of shit" do I "spew out"? Let's put some teeth
behind your claims. You constantly make the mistake of lumping CH
customers together as a group rather than addressing a particular
person - in this case I think it's Gary.
> He laughed and said "What dipshits."
I would have said that too if I was told the inaccurate BS he heard
from you
> So is he jealous too????
Doesn't sound like it
> Might be time for a new excuse. . . .
An excuse for what? I didn't even post on this thread until now.
kirb
beaver wrote:
> I may try something like this. Somewhat similar to what Martin showed
> me for an upgrade on his machines. They used a 12V lamp circuit to
> power the amp.
Not enough power on that circuit.....
> Ideally, I could find a single channel 120V powered
> booster, but that may be expensive. I replaced the speaker on my TOTAN
> and IJ, and increased the gain on the cabinet amp. On the TOTAN, it
> sounds great, however, it sounds poor on my IJ for some reason. So for
> the latter, I will get an amp like you have.
These amps are easy to get in 12V because they use them in cars all the
time. Not so true for 120V.
> I did not think about the cone hitting the bottom of the cab if you
> removed the spacer block. Thanks for mentioning that.
Often you have to build your own spacer block and replace the one that
is there.
Kirb
Andy
>
With water flippers on your feet??? BUWAHAHAHAHAHA
gpc...@yahoo.com
I was only joking about the comments on the Metallic game
I think it's great when someone tries to improve what they have
regardless of budget
I just don't understand why they had to slam our $199 Alpine/Rockford
speaker upgrade concept hopefully announced in another thread
I'm the last person to be a snob on games, because almost all of my
titles are B and C classified at best
take care ...
Gary/Arizona
TheKorn
news:1160540842.5...@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
> Fair enough!!
>
> ...Back on topic, what is with everybody and the speakers these days. I
> am trying to keep my pins quiet as I play them at night when the kids
> are asleep.
>
> If I use your system, or Garys, or Korns, I will blast my kids out of
> their bunk beds.
Loud was never a design requirement, just quality. Truth be told, at
home I keep things pretty darn quiet, since normally there's only one
game being played at a time.
And if you go the external amp route, it's actually easier to set a
precise low volume level than with the stock system.
--
Have a home video that's trapped on your camera? Want to share it on the
web or on DVD?
TheKorn
@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> 8. Install big honkin' subwoofer. The model shown is a Pyramid 8" that
> cost around $25. If you use an 8" sub, you will have to remove the
> mounting board (9) and enlarge the hole, or replace it with another
> board with an already-enlarged hole if you don't want to saw up factory
> parts. You should NOT have to enlarge the hole in the actual cabinet
> unless you want even more bass. This is personal preference - Korn has
> measured output and enlarging the actual cabinet hole will improve bass
> output even more. If you do not enlarge the hole in the mounting board
> and use an 8" sub, the speaker foam will hit the board, resulting in
> bad sound. The mounting board is just glued (poorly) and stapled, so it
> should pry up easily. Be sure to re-fasten it down *securely* when
> reattaching it... :)
Thank you!! If anyone is interested in why *I* say you *should* cut the
cabinet, pound this: http://www.thekorn.net/speakers/cutcabinet/
It's a personal choice; I can understand that some people simply don't
want to cut their cabinet, and that's fine. But my aim is to let people
know exactly *how much* impact that choice has on things. (Quite a bit!)
By the way, what happened to step 9? :)
kirb
gpc...@yahoo.com wrote:
> Just for the record ...
>
> I was only joking about the comments on the Metallic game
You were being a trolling ass like normal or you wouldn't have posted
the same comment more than once...Met's suggestion is a great one and I
may consider it now that my supply of standard amps is used up.
> I think it's great when someone tries to improve what they have
> regardless of budget
Liar
Why constantly bring up "team CH" and "you all are jealous"?
> I just don't understand why they had to slam our $199 Alpine/Rockford
> speaker upgrade concept hopefully announced in another thread
You didn't quote a price, you didn't say how it was going to be
installed. You didn't mention how the smaller speaker was going to be
delt with, You left out all the key details and expect to get praise?
You can't be that stupid.
Have CH send you his customer list and bless all those people with your
"wisdom". Most of the rest of us already know what we are doing.
> I'm the last person to be a snob on games, because almost all of my
> titles are B and C classified at best
HAHAHAaaa.....whew! that was a good one. Try another troll attempt. You
are the BIGGEST game snob this hobby has ever seen. Re-read your last
round of posts if you need education.
Kirb
(damn, just got suckered by the troll....bad kirb, bad kirb.....)
TheKorn
@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:
> I may try something like this. Somewhat similar to what Martin showed
> me for an upgrade on his machines. They used a 12V lamp circuit to
> power the amp.
I'm very reticent to add a large draw to any of the game's existing power
supplies, especially since I always tend to add rather large amps. If
you really insist on using the built in power supply, I wouldn't grab 12V
from lamp power (i.e. going through the lamp fuse), but would rather tap
directly off of 12V regulated and then add a fuse in-line. (I did that
for the STTNG floor flashers.)
(I also added a small fan to the 12V heat sink to make sure it was nice
and cool to help deal with the added heat/stress, just in case!)
> Ideally, I could find a single channel 120V powered
> booster, but that may be expensive.
Those do exist. Your best bet would be electronics surplus; often times
manufacturers of those cruddy home theater cube subwoofers will flush out
extra amps that way. You'll have to be creative with how you mount
those. Because they're designed to be one wall of a speaker, they have
heatsink fins on one side and the other has all the components. So
you'll likely need some TALL stand-offs to mount it. Figure $25-50 for
one.
> I replaced the speaker on my TOTAN
> and IJ, and increased the gain on the cabinet amp. On the TOTAN, it
> sounds great, however, it sounds poor on my IJ for some reason. So for
> the latter, I will get an amp like you have.
WPC-95 has larger amplifiers and a larger supply behind them, IIRC.
> I did not think about the cone hitting the bottom of the cab if you
> removed the spacer block. Thanks for mentioning that.
Yeah. Also check out http://www.thekorn.net/speakers/cutcabinet/ ;
should be an eye opener! :)
beaver
> > I replaced the speaker on my TOTAN
> > and IJ, and increased the gain on the cabinet amp. On the TOTAN, it
> > sounds great, however, it sounds poor on my IJ for some reason. So for
> > the latter, I will get an amp like you have.
>
> WPC-95 has larger amplifiers and a larger supply behind them, IIRC.
Well that would make sense. I had not thought of that. The sound is so
much BIGGER on my MM and TOTAN compared to my IJ. Must be the built-in
amp.
> Yeah. Also check out http://www.thekorn.net/speakers/cutcabinet/ ;
> should be an eye opener! :)
Nice test and write-up Korn, I have added it to my notes on my results
with just changing the speaker and turning up the volume on the amp.
http://www.edcheung.com/album/album06/Pinball/totan.htm#bass
Edward Cheung CARGPB26
www.edcheung.com
Dan Beck
thank you for the information and photo! It looks likes a reasonable
project for me.
Regards,
Dan
P.S. I'm not sure about the voting Democratic thing as payment...I may just
pull the Ross Perot move in '08 :-)
"metallik" <lsc...@dlptech.com> wrote in message
news:1160537725....@k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> 8. Install big honkin' subwoofer. The model shown is a Pyramid 8" that
> cost around $25. If you use an 8" sub, you will have to remove the
> mounting board (9) and enlarge the hole, or replace it with another
> board with an already-enlarged hole if you don't want to saw up factory
> parts. You should NOT have to enlarge the hole in the actual cabinet
> unless you want even more bass. This is personal preference - Korn has
> measured output and enlarging the actual cabinet hole will improve bass
> output even more. If you do not enlarge the hole in the mounting board
> and use an 8" sub, the speaker foam will hit the board, resulting in
> bad sound. The mounting board is just glued (poorly) and stapled, so it
> should pry up easily. Be sure to re-fasten it down *securely* when
> reattaching it... :)
>
Wolffy
inside the metal box. Yeah I was an electrical appentice so doing
funkier wiring doesn't scare me. :)
-wolffy
metallik wrote:
>>rewire the service plug to get switched with the game. Then plug the
>>amp directly into the service plug and it will be switched on and off
>>with the game. Cleaner looking install.
>
>
> Yep, you can get PC cords with that service outlet type plug on the
> end. This is one of the first ones I did and was going for
> functionality over cleanliness (look at the rest of that mess) but your
> idea is a good one.
>
Wolffy
-wolffy
kirb wrote:
> suggested option-
>
> rewire the service plug to get switched with the game. Then plug the
> amp directly into the service plug and it will be switched on and off
> with the game. Cleaner looking install.
>
> Kirb
>
Wolffy
crossover since (as you pointed out) in TZ all sound goes to all
speakers. I already have the corss over in, just need to wire up the
amp to complete the project. Be sure to put in a good subwoofer, it is
amazing how many TZ sound effects come to life with a good speaker in
the cabinet.
-wolffy
kirb
JB wrote:
> I did something like this before, but I used a DPDT, center off toggle
> switch to control power to the utility outlet. With the switch, the outlet
> could be set to always on, always off, or switched with the game's power.
>
> Be aware that the PC power supply can draw up to 10 amps, way more than the
> utility outlet is typically rated.
Not true.
The outlet is attached to the line side of the game which, at best has
a 15A breaker in front of it.
The power supplies may peak at over 10A, but will not draw that steady
state.
Kirb
Jeff Reynolds
> I have also told him about the type of shit you, Jeff Reynolds, Cpiel,
> and the rest of the self appointed "rich boys club" peanut gallery
> constantly spew out here on the newsgroup. He laughed and said
>
> "What dipshits."
>
> So is he jealous too????
No, he's not. He doesn't want the best in highly restored pinballs.
If he wanted the best he could have the best (unlike you).
If was interested in the best he could do so, money would not stop him,
only you telling him that route beater, sharpie touched up, hacked up
crap is cool will.
When I started collecting pins, I was "trying" to buy really nice
original stuff. Some of it was true HUO others was overhyped,
overstated, misleading garbage. Yes I got a tons of pics, no I didn't
have time to fly all over the country to look at them in person.
What I determined is that is much more effective to buy a low/decent
price base game and have CH mint it out. That way you are guarenteed a
superior pinball for a fraction more in price than some "the best i've
ever seen, from my personal collection, cherry, minty fresh, where's
that speck of dirt" piece of crap.
So maybe while you are at your new rich buddys house mooching of him
and passing off your average pins as collector quality you could mix in
a little truth once in a while...nah then he would have a much nicer
collection than you and you would have yet ANOTHER collector to be
jealous of.
pitiful
Jeff
HEPRGP#1
metallik
> I just don't understand why they had to slam our $199 Alpine/Rockford
> speaker upgrade concept hopefully announced in another thread
I'm not slamming it. I'm saying mine is better, and I list the
reasoning under the "Benefits" section of my post. If you disagree,
that's great... go buy the $199 upgrade. I really don't care what
anyone does with the information, and I certainly don't care what they
do with their own games. You're welcome to develop an upgrade that
mimics mine, but it would be difficult to make "plug and play".
metallik
a great upgrade for v2.0 of this mod" .. then took the easy way out and
spliced to the existing splices :)
Looking forward to seeing you guys at Expo and checking out your new
digs!
JB
that.
-JB
"kirb" <kirb...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160582301.7...@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
metallik
> Thank you!! If anyone is interested in why *I* say you *should* cut the
> cabinet, pound this: http://www.thekorn.net/speakers/cutcabinet/
Yep. I'm debating cutting the hole bigger... since I'll not be selling
this machine for a long, long time, it's no biggie, but I want to make
sure I can cut a *clean* 8" hole before proceeding. Unlike the
mounting board, this hole is visible from the outside (albeit
underneath) so I don't want a ratty jigsaw cut.
> It's a personal choice; I can understand that some people simply don't
> want to cut their cabinet, and that's fine. But my aim is to let people
> know exactly *how much* impact that choice has on things. (Quite a bit!)
Yeah.. I'll probably do DM first to test my cutting abilities, once I
get an 8" speaker for it. It currently has the same amp setup, but
with a pretty crappy 6.5" sub that's only marginally better than the
factory speaker. I parted out a $20 truck box to get it. Even with
that crappy speaker, the improvement is tremendous.. you can finally
hear all the explosion sound effects! Problem is you turn it up and
the speaker says "screw this" and distorts, especially on the bonus
count sound effects. LOTS of bass there that you never hear on a
factory setup.
> By the way, what happened to step 9? :)
The numbers were more to reference the diagram, although they mostly
fell nicely on individual steps. "9" is the mounting board, which is
referenced in step 8.
gpc...@yahoo.com
beater games
by the way, i agree with every word jeff reynolds said
Bryan Kelly
"I'm comin Lizabeth......I'm comin."
Bryan (CARGPB 14)
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/bspins
http://www.pinballmadness.net
Home of the world renowned EXECUTIVE Pin Footie
http://usergallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/album79
Make your pin feel like one of the family.
miracleman
> you guys are like the fred sanfords of pinball with all your wires and
> beater games
Yeah, but we actually PLAY THE PINBALL GAMES, you doink!
YOU think they're some sort of status symbol, but the only people you
might impress with them are the same people here that you piss off all
the time!
nomad
nomad
gpc...@yahoo.com
gary
gpc...@yahoo.com
gary
Andy
<gpc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1160604440.7...@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
> by the way, i agree with every word jeff reynolds said
Ditto.
micha...@comcast.net
Steve C
circle cutter. it has a center piece that will work in a drill and a
rectangular "arm" with a cutter on it that can be adjusted to a rather
large hole radius. I use mine for woodworking and it would work here
as well. there are cutters that consist of two cutting blades but
those typically don't cut a large enough diameter hole. the one with
the single blade can cut out holes that are pretty large. the one I
have will cut a 6 inch radius so that's plenty big.
stevebo