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Iron Man mods DONE - 3 Arc Lights & Gun LED!

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Rare Hero

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Jun 12, 2010, 11:23:21 PM6/12/10
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Man, it took longer than I thought, but I'm done w/ my main Iron Man
mods.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/rarehero/IRON%20MAN/ArcLightMods.jpg

3mm Red LED w/ resistor in War Machine's chest attached to GI
5mm Orange LED w/ resistor in War Machine's cannon attached to
kickback flasher
5mm White LED w/ resistor in Whiplash's chest attached to GI
Pinball Life White frosted flat-top LED in Iron Monger's chest
attached to GI

I was also planning on putting a few Iron Mans in there....not sure
I'm going to do it, though. Also not sure if I"m going to attempt the
lit whips mod I was thinking about ...might just be too much visible
wire....we'll see. I'm happy w/ this for now.

Youtube video showing War Machine's cannon fire:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4cfjwOpKfg

Greg

TMFP

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Jun 12, 2010, 11:35:00 PM6/12/10
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I am going to have to get myself to the toy store

BoJo

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Jun 13, 2010, 1:10:21 AM6/13/10
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Looks great !!

MB

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Jun 13, 2010, 1:12:52 AM6/13/10
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On Jun 12, 8:23 pm, Rare Hero <rarehero...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Man, it took longer than I thought, but I'm done w/ my main Iron Man
> mods.
>
> http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/rarehero/IRON%20MAN/ArcLightMod...

>
> 3mm Red LED w/ resistor in War Machine's chest attached to GI
> 5mm Orange LED w/ resistor in War Machine's cannon attached to
> kickback flasher
> 5mm White LED w/ resistor in Whiplash's chest attached to GI
> Pinball Life White frosted flat-top LED in Iron Monger's chest
> attached to GI
>
> I was also planning on putting a few Iron Mans in there....not sure
> I'm going to do it, though.  Also not sure if I"m going to attempt the
> lit whips mod I was thinking about ...might just be too much visible
> wire....we'll see.  I'm happy w/ this for now.
>
> Youtube video showing War Machine's cannon fire:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4cfjwOpKfg
>
> Greg

Yea- I thought that too with EL. Then started to thing that some
bright 3mm yellow leds in the hands with short pieces of fiber optic
strands would be as good or better than EL- and a lot smaller and
discrete.

your thots?

Rare Hero

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Jun 13, 2010, 2:19:32 AM6/13/10
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On Jun 12, 10:12 pm, MB <m...@bergnz.com> wrote:
> Yea- I thought that too with EL. Then started to thing that some
> bright 3mm yellow leds in the hands with short pieces of fiber optic
> strands would be as good or better than EL- and a lot smaller and
> discrete.
>
> your thots?

There are some light up shoelaces that are exactly that....fiber optic
w/ LED....or I suppose you could make your own. I'm burnt out on this
stuff right now....even though these mods were technically easy, it
was a bit of a pain in the ass and took longer than I expected. Time
to chill and just PLAY. :)

Greg

c2

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Jun 13, 2010, 9:14:18 AM6/13/10
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That looks fantastic! Love the War Machine LED that shoots back at
you. Very well done!

-Craig

purplenurple

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Jun 13, 2010, 12:15:32 PM6/13/10
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Greg, those are awesome!!!! What a huge improvement. I have the LEDs
and spare toys but I'm nervous about taking the next steps, do you
have any pics of the wiring/connections ?

Rare Hero

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Jun 13, 2010, 12:53:29 PM6/13/10
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I should have done more step-by-step pics...here's just a pic of how
the wires look coming out of the character's backs

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/rarehero/IRON%20MAN/WiresWM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/rarehero/IRON%20MAN/WiresWL.jpg

Here are some tips:


-For the G.I. LEDs in WM and WL, there seemed to be a few different
theories in calculating the resistors you should use. One calculation
said to use 82 ohm, one said 185 ohm. They seemed to have the same
effect, and 82 wasn't burning out or anything. I suppose you're
'safer' w/ 185, though.

-Make sure you use small heat shrink tube on each wire/LED leg...it's
a tight fit in there, you don't want to "cross the streams" (I did
during a test and blew a fuse). I then used a bigger heat shrink tube
over both wires. I suppose that's optional.

-It doesn't matter which leg you connect the resistor to, or which
G.I. tabs you tap it into. Works either way. I used mini-alligator
clips on a G.I. socket, then secured the wires to a nearby loom w/ a
zip tie.

-I used Epoxy on the figure joints once they were in the pose I
wanted...however on the holes in their backs, I just used clear
silicone caulk. These toys aren't moving around or anything - so the
silicone holds the LED/wires in place...but it's also removable if the
LED does go bad down the road.

-Iron Monger is big enough that you can fit a socket & pinball life
flat-top LED inside...just barely! I had to snip the tabs a bit. If
you drill his hole right, the LED will fit PERFECTLY snug in it.
Again, I squoze some silicone in there to secure the bulb while still
being removable for a possible future replacement if need be.
Unfortunately I ripped too much plastic off of Monger's back - so I
didn't have the screwhole needed to secure his back to the plate he's
attached to.....but I drilled another hole and used a zip tie to
secure him. If you use your current Monger toy, things might be
easier because you won't have to redrill all the holes to secure him.
I used a spare so...I had to do new holes, and there isn't much margin
of error! I had to take him out a few times and redrill ....for
instance the front of his legs were getting caught on the plafyield
hole...then his thumbs were because I didn't put his hands in quite
the right place.

-I attached the new wires for Monger's light to the current wire loom
w/ zip ties, so it has the exact amount of slack that the current
wires do.

-For the gun LED connected to the flasher, I used 900 ohm resistor.
This one you have to connect to the "right" tabs on the flasher. One
way works, one way doesn't. If you do it wrong, it won't harm the
game...it just won't light up. Switch the wires and you're good.

-For my "better" War Machine pose, I could only use one of the screw
holes in the plastic. I secured his other foot w/ a piece double-
sided tape. I used the spare hole to attach a nylon spacer, which I
secured his wires to. Whiplash already has a spacer behind him - and
again, I used that to attach his wires to. I thought about removing
it and feeding his wires through the hole...that would look better.
*shrug*...something to think about. :)

That's all I could think of...if you need any other tips, let me know

Greg

purplenurple

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Jun 13, 2010, 2:19:04 PM6/13/10
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Cool! Thanks Greg, what about under the playfield? Where do the
resistors go?

machine.slave

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Jun 13, 2010, 2:57:18 PM6/13/10
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Greg, that looks killer! Great job.. especially with War Machine

Does the Monger LED stay on all the time? If so, is it visible when
he's down?

Rare Hero

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Jun 13, 2010, 5:41:07 PM6/13/10
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On Jun 13, 11:19 am, purplenurple <thearcadeadd...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Cool! Thanks Greg, what about under the playfield? Where do the
> resistors go?

The resistors go right on one of the LED legs. Twist the resistor leg
around the LED's, solder it. Then solder the other resistor leg to
one of your wires. The other LED leg can go direct to the other wire.

Greg

Rare Hero

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Jun 13, 2010, 5:42:25 PM6/13/10
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Yeah, the LED is on as long as the G.I. is on. So - there are a few
times in the game where the G.I. goes on and off...when Monger is
rising, or during the start of Whiplash Multiball...so - you'll see
the chest lights go off then as well. When the Monger is down, you
can't see the light (even though it is in fact on).

Greg

Rare Hero

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Jun 13, 2010, 5:52:51 PM6/13/10
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Here's a visual example:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v57/rarehero/IRON%20MAN/LEDresistorexample.jpg

That's not the right resistor (I think that's the one I used for the
flasher) ...but you get the point. Solder, then snip off the 'left
over' resistor leg that's sticking out, and put heat shrink tubing
over it.

Greg

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