Effective February 22, 2024, Google Groups will no longer support new Usenet content. Posting and subscribing will be disallowed, and new content from Usenet peers will not appear. Viewing and searching of historical data will still be supported as it is done today.

Repair logs for pins

Skip to first unread message

Neil Bradley

Jan 2, 2006, 8:13:33 PM1/2/06
Someone a few days ago mentioned that they'd like to get repair logs on
games. I'm one of the owners of Ground Kontrol, an arcade in the
Portland, OR, USA area:


We have about 20 pins or so, and the logs I've posted below are directly
out of our repair list.

Please keep the following in mind when reading these mssages:

* The pins mentioned are running 12+ hours per day, roughly 345 days a year.

* The logs span a time table of roughly 2+ years

* CNB/Neil = Me. GK=Ground Kontrol.

* Take anything you read in them as advice at your own risk. The
troubleshooting and repair experience of each person varies wildly.

* Discussion is frank in this log. Don't take offense if something irks
you. Remember these are private logs between employees and owners and
weren't ever meant for public eyes, so it's more "raw" than you might

* The signal/noise ratio is either high or low depending upon what
you're looking for in this list.

* I am not looking for commentary, discussion, critique, or private
discussion on repairs. If you have questions about a specific incident,
post it to RGP and I'll do my best to answer. Let's have everyone benefit.

* I am posting it in the public domain. Feel free to do with it what you

Hope you find it useful.



Tim Iskander

Jan 2, 2006, 10:21:31 PM1/2/06
This info has also been entered on the online repair log forums.

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> The Addams Family
> -----------------
> 12/12/05 - Mark
> Cleaned and tuned game.
> 10/23/05 - Mark
> Cleaned playfield, leveled table, replaced rubbers and broken GI. Game is
> looking great.
> 9/19/05 - Mark
> * I took the remains of the old diverter spring and spent an extremely
> annoying half hour bending it into a shape resembling its old, unbroken form.
> After being reassembled, the left ramp diverter appeared to work flawlessly.
> This should be a semi-permanent fix, but we'll see if it holds.
> * Resoldered the pins on the mansion light PCB. All lights are now solid.
> * Stuffed some folded up paper behind the two graveyard targets surrounding
> the swamp entrance. They keep bending back, which causes the ball to get
> airborne off of them and break things. We'll see if it holds. Might have to use
> something more resilient.
> * Tried to better secure the blue pop bumper lid in the graveyard using a
> washer.
> * Replaced flipper rubbers and GI, and cleaned playfield.
> 8/1/05 - Mark
> * Spring ordered to replace diverter return is the wrong part. Anthony could
> not find the correct part number for the spring in the manual.
> 7/11/05 - Mark
> * Repaired the bookcase. The locking ring had just come loose; it was an
> easy adjustment
> * Fixed lights and some intermittent switches
> * Cleaned playfield.
> 7/11/05 - Matt
> * Turntable for bookcase is broken, it wobbles at an angle so badly that a
> ball can get stuck at the lip of the playfield.
> 6/19/05 - Mark
> * Thing shot diverter was not firing. The heavy duty spring attaching the
> diverter to the coil had broken in half; managed to use the remaining piece of
> the spring to get it working again, though the solution is temporary at best.
> * Replaced a bunch of burned out lights cleaned the table, and rotated some
> rubbers.
> 4/8/05 - ADR
> Problem: UR flipper sometimes not returning to rest position
> Cause: Dirty slug and coil sleeve
> Fix: Cleaned
> Problem: Ramp sensing "Bear Stairs" shot as a "side stairs" shot
> Cause: upper left switch armature out of alignment
> Fix: realigned armature
> Also cleaned Thing, which was filthy, and reseated/replaced some feature lights.
> 3/18/05 - Mark
> * Cold solder joints on mansion light connector pins
> * Intermittent lights on multiball/Thing shot
> * Several feature lights out
> * Needs cleaning
> Black Knight
> ------------
> 10/4/05 - ADR
> * Player 1 and Player 4 score displays out for the first 10-20 minutes this
> morning.
> 9/18/05 - ADR
> * Refusing to start games. Traced to dirty/intermittent switches in upper
> and lower ball troughs. Cleaned switches, game now starts reliably.
> 9/11/05 - ADR
> * Mark pulled the main PCB and reflowed solder on all header pins. Score
> displays are now all correct.
> 7/6/05 - ADR
> * After game warms up, score display digits often "pump," disappear, or
> display wrong values (1 too high.) Appears to be a connector issue at the main
> board pair.
> 5/11/05 - CNB
> * Fixed switch matrix by replacing bad PIA.
> 3/18/05 - Mark
> * Something wrong with switch matrix as it relates to the drop target banks.
> Jeffrey has more information.
> 10/13/04 - ADR
> * Magna-Save magnets not activating. Fixed by attaching magnet ground wire
> to grounding post per assembly instructions.
> * Bell not ringing. Partially fixed by reattaching clipped wires.
> * Cleared the audit totals to prepare for first day of operation.
> 10/1/04 - JDM
> * Returned to service at GK after being shopped by JDM.
> Black Knight 2000
> -----------------
> 11/22/05 - JDM
> * I've made a point of playing several games on BK2K every time I've visited
> for the last few weeks, and I haven't seen the spontaneous tilt problem.
> 11/13/05 - Mark
> * Jeffrey had an awesome idea about connecting the two drop targets with
> broken optos to the neighboring drops, so that players can at least reset the
> magna save and kickback, though it might make the game too easy. Still, better
> than both banks being totally nonfunctional. I will rig this up next chance I
> get.
> * Apparently the game keeps spontaneously tilting, but I can't get it to
> happen, and I can't get anyone who swears it happens all the time to make it
> happen while I'm watching. I did find two other problems while investigating:
> o The ground strap had broken off of the coin door, so I resecured
> that, though if that was randomly triggering a slam tilt, the game should reset
> to game over mode instead of starting another ball, which is apparently what it
> does during these phantom tilts.
> o The W in WAR rollovers was short circuited at the micro, so I fixed
> that.
> 11/7/05 - Mark
> * The playfield does not sit level in the cabinet. In order to level the
> playfield, the left side of the cabinet must be adjusted much higher than the
> right. Jeffrey and I found part of the reason for this (the back right playfield
> hinge wasn't secured properly) but that did not totally fix the problem. And
> it's possible that having the cabinet list right is what's causing the game to
> tilt frequently, though I have not experienced this myself during playtesting.
> * Fixed the UR flipper by installing a new linkage and coil sleeve.
> 10/23/05 - Mark
> * Reattached unsecured lid for multiball ramp: I think the reason that shot
> was so difficult was because the ball would get airborne off of the ramp, hit
> the lid, lose a lot of momentum, and as a result roll back down. That doesn't
> seem to happen so much with the lid secured; I am now able to make at least a
> couple of multiball shots per game.
> * Leveled table.
> * Cleaned playfield, replaced GI and some feature lights and broken rubbers.
> 10/13/05 - ADR
> * Could not reproduce tilt problem. Verified that plumb tilt was working
> correctly and returned game to service.
> 10/13/05 - Zach
> * Game keeps on tilting for no apparent reason, i even looked at the weight-
> thingy and it appeared fine.
> 9/28/05 - John
> * Game had a credit on it left by a customer and so i pressed start and i
> was told that pinball was missing. i pressed start a few more times (im not sure
> why) and turned away to get the key and find this missing ball(i had assumed the
> ball was stuck on the play feild) at this point the game started.
> 8/21/05 - Mark
> * Repaired clipped power line on left flipper coil. Returned to service.
> * Adjusted habitrail to not drain right down the middle. Game is a lot more
> fun now.
> * I think the "N" or the "G" target is not registering anymore, but I need
> to look at it more closely. I ran out of time today.
> 8/11/05 - ADR
> * Installed flipper kit on UR flipper.
> o Problem: Intermittent UR flipper.
> o Cause: Power wire to UR flipper poorly attached to the remains of a
> lug on the LR flipper.
> o Fix: Attached wire to another heavy wire already attached to the
> lug.
> * Reduced multiball difficulty from "Medium" to "Easy" to let more people
> have a chance at it. It had been nearly impossible for even the most skilled
> players. NOTE: the only difference is that, after locking each ball, the
> drawbridge stays down.
> * Returned game to service.
> 8/04/05 - CNB
> * Verified with Anthony that BK2K has been turned back on (per my direction)
> with the dead upper right flipper. Parts on order.
> 6/19/05 - Mark
> * One of the lugs had broken off of the right flipper coil. Soldered wires
> back on to the existing nub, and it works great.
> * Replaced some feature lights, though some of the GI still needs replacing
> (ran out of time)
> 4/16/05 - CNB
> * Fixed Black Knight 2000's left slingshot bumper. One of the switches had
> closed in, and the nylon connector between the armature and the plunger had
> shattered. Replaced with a new one - good to go.
> 5/05/04 - JDM
> * Soldered habitrail.
> 8/22/03 - CNB
> * Replaced broken flipper bat.
> 8/15/03 - CNB
> * Rebuilt lower left flipper.
> 7/16/03 - JDM
> * Epoxied broken habitrail.
> 6/29/03 - CNB
> * Installed new EOS switch.
> 6/22/03 - CNB
> * Flipper coil was toast. Replaced with a new one, all is well.
> 6/08/03 - CNB
> * Game placed into service at GK.
> 6/04/03 - CNB
> Fixed upper playfield GI problem:
> * Cold solder joint on the relay board controlling the upper PF GI
> * Two blown GI fuses
> * Bad connector on interconnect board
> * Bad connector on lower playfield interconnect board
> * Bad connector on relay board
> * 5 sockets shorted by staples
> * A single shorted light bulb
> The 6.3VAC was an actual 6.3VAC, but when I applied any current load on it, it
> dropped to about .3 volts, then stayed at .3 volts. Then when I removed the
> connector to test voltage, I got it again, and when I reconnected it, it'd be
> 6.3VAC until I put a load on it. This turned out to be a connector problem
> (heating, expansion). And opening/closing the playfields moved the connectors
> enough to make it work/not work and in some cases short out the circuit. Damn!
> I also had to fix several drop targets that weren't working - cleaned connectors
> and reflowed solder to the headers. Everything works great!
> Charlie's Angels
> ----------------
> 10/23/05 - Mark
> Cleaned playfield and replaced lights. Did not have time to level. Will do next
> week.
> 8/14/05 - JDM
> * The problem with it not registering coin drops seems to have disappeared.
> * Anthony adjusted and I further tweaked the settings to make it more
> difficult to win free games:
> * dATA settings:
> o Th onE (first replay threshold) - 340000
> o Th TWo (second replay threshold) - 0
> o TThrEE (third replay threshold) - 0
> o hI onE (high score to date) - 340000
> o SPEcIL (points awarded for successive specials) - 20000
> * oPTIon settings:
> o coUnTL (left coin counter multiplier) - 0
> o coUnTr (right coin counter multiplier) - 0
> o ToP (Maximum credits allowed) - 8
> o LoTTo (Match feature) - 1
> o ThrEE (three balls/game) - 1
> o SPEcIL7 (special award) - 0
> o TILT (tilt penalty) - 1
> o ShoW (c show credits) - 1
> o c TunE (play credit tune) - 1
> o S TunE (play game tunes) - 1
> o chuTE (chute control) - 1
> o ShoWhI (display high game to date) - 1
> o AWArd (award for beating HSTD) - 0
> o Add (add-a-ball) - 0
> 8/5/05 - JDM
> * Game is way too easy. I dropped in one quarter and played 4 games, and
> then had to clear 7 credits! At that rate, I could have played all night. I'm
> not sure if there's an in game special or what, but it seemed like I was getting
> a replay around 100,000. My philosophy is, no pin should award more than one
> credit, if at all possible. Someone needs to go through the settings and tweak
> this game, and then play it to make sure it's right.
> 8/4/05 - ADR
> * Found software settings scrambled. Restored factory settings, then
> adjusted to our defaults:
> o Balls/game: 3
> o Max credits: 8
> o High Score: 450,000
> o Replay score 1: 320,000
> o Replay score 2: 460,000
> o Replay score 3: 570,000
> o Add-a-ball: 0 (no)
> 7/31/05 - CNB
> * Game was up to 80+ credits today when I went in. Was the same way on
> Saturday as well. We've cleared it to 0 - please keep an eye on the # of credits
> on this machine. The Ni-Wumpf board may be screwing up.
> 7/13/05 - ADR
> * Adjusted: Replay at 320,000 / 460,000 / 570,000
> 7/03/05 - ADR
> * Adjusted to 3 balls per play, replay at 200,000 / 320,000 / 470,000.
> 7/3/05 - CNB
> * Replaced CPU board with Ni-Wumpf board.
> * Replaced J3 connector w/ one rebuilt by JDM.
> * Fixed drop target by replacing fuse.
> * Placed game back in service.
> 4/29/04 - CNB
> * Removed from service, placed in JDM's basement.
> 3/08/04 - Mark
> * Keeps blowing fuses. It has something to do with the voltage going to the
> solenoids, according to Anthony. Anyway, we just popped our last 1 amp Slo-Blo,
> so I'm leaving the game off for now.
> 3/03/04 - JDM
> * Charlie's Angels started making a LOUD buzzing tone while my wife was
> playing it. It was so loud, I thought the security alarm had gone off. I ran
> over and cycled power, and it played fine afterwards.
> 2/26/04 - ADR
> * Game locked up a few times after its relocation. Cleaned and re-seated
> power connectors and EPROM; game's working for the time being.
> * Installed hook inside coin door and hung backbox keys on it
> * Installed lights in coin slots
> * Game placed into service at GK.
> 2/23/04 - CNB
> * I traced the problem to an isolation plastic piece that was grounding out
> the 60/45VDC lines to the displays. Sheesh! Also, some idiot installed an 8 amp
> fuse where a 1/4 amp fuse should've gone. Looks like the game didn't suffer any
> permanent damage.
> 2/22/04 - CNB
> * As I was playing it, I noticed that smoke was coming out of the drop
> target hole. I quickly unplugged the game and heard a crackling sound. It was
> one of the transformers getting EXTREMELY hot and smoking! There's this white
> stuff oozing out, too. Definitely not a good sign. ;-( I suspect that the
> displays being out and the smoking transformer are probably related. I just hope
> nothing is ruined beyond repair. It's a weird transformer (it's the B-19325)
> 10/31/03 - CNB
> * I replaced all the caps and 3 critical transistors (and one zener diode)
> on the power supply board and all voltages are exactly where they should be. AC
> Ripple on the 5 volt rail is somewhere in the 5mv area. Much better!
> * The game plays perfectly, however the score is out! Whatever is going on
> is causing a fuse to blow (though I don't know what circuit the fuse goes to)
> and taking the main AC fuse that feeds the score voltage with it. It's not the
> lamp displays - I lose the fuse even if none of the displays plugged in. Grr....
> Oh well.
> Demolition Man
> --------------
> 12/31/05 - CNB -
> * Couldn't get the game to reset, but I noticed there was 4.772 volts at the
> CPU board while warm. 4.7V Is the trigger point for the reset circuit. Measured
> ground differences on the driver board and CPU board and found a 0.002V volt
> difference. Difference on the +5 volt rail was .291 volts. Reflowed the solder
> on the CPU board header connectors and anything that looked cold (lots of
> components with cold solder joints cleaned up). Dropped the +5 volt rail to .277
> volts. Removed the driver board and reflowed the driver board->CPU board,
> voltage shot up to 4.998 volts (0.065 volt difference). Keep an eye on it -
> crossing fingers that this is it.
> 12/27/05 - ADR - Resetting consistently during games: when either flipper button
> pushed, and sometimes when other coils are fired. This is the same problem as
> noted on 12/23/05.
> 12/25/05 CNB
> Went to look at the game tonight. I couldn't get it to reset no matter how many
> times I flipped flippers and fired solenoids. I verified that there was a good,
> solid, 120.8 volts AC coming in to the game. Also verified that there was 5.062
> volts, VERY solid, on the driver/reg board. Measured voltage on the CPU board,
> and it read 4.822 as measured on all of the ICs. I noticed that the CPU board
> wasn't seated properly (ground screws were underneath their holes on the
> bottom), so I removed the board, and reseated the CPU board. The +5 rail went to
> 4.886. Still not as high as I'd like but well within tolerance of operation.
> When I flipped the flippers, on the driver board it dropped from 5.062 volts to
> 5.060 volts, and on the CPU board it dropped from 4.886 to 4.882 volts - no
> matter how much/hard I flipped the flippers. I'm conjecturing at this point that
> a poorly seated CPU board is what was causing the restarts. We played a few
> games and couldn't get it to reset. Put back in to service - keep an eye on it.
> 12/23/05 CNB
> Game is resetting when player flips the flippers. Seems to be related to any
> multiple of solenoids that fire - 2 or more at a time. No specific solenoid, nor
> flipper even, is causing the problem. Will return with a scope to monitor the +5
> lines. May be a crappy connector, but reseating them all had no effect.
> 12/12/05 - Mark
> * Replaced broken linkage on LL flipper yesterday
> * Cleaned game, replaced lights
> * Replaced rubber on LL sling so that the ball hopefully won't get trapped
> there anymore.
> 12/11/05 - CNB
> * Left flipper button not completely engaging. Readjusted/returned to
> service.
> * Plunger return spring had popped off, causing a limp flipper (also causes
> it to be weak). Reattached.
> * Ball got stuck in lower left slingshot bumper. Keep an eye out for it.
> 11/20/05 - CNB
> * Rebuilt driver board power supply and added additional jumpers to the
> driver board.
> * Reflowed solder on all connector pins
> * Flash lamps now work
> * The DMD problem I believe is related to the DMD power connector. Will
> order an 8 pin .1" Molex to replace it.
> * Note also that J102's jumper is intermittent and needs to be replaced. The
> symptom is no flash lamps and no solenoids.
> * This game is annoying, as if you have the coin door open, it kills the
> power to both the flash lamp and solenoid circuits. [ADR - emphasis added. Cause
> of "dead coils" problems reported below?]
> * Game is working - returned to service.
> 11/7/05 - CNB
> * Game was resetting when both flippers were fired. I took out the driver
> board and will rebuild the power supply sections, and order flipper rebuild kits
> for the game. This should take care of any resetting problems - permanently.
> 11/7/05 - Mark
> * Explored problem with the DMD, which is dying in much the same way as
> ST:TNG. There seems to be a couple of issues:
> o The -125V line is showing -142V. Marvin3M says that this could be
> due to a broken trace somewhere on the HV part of the DM controller.
> Unfortunately, to see if this has happened, we'd have to desolder 132 itty bitty
> pins from the ribbon cables going to the glass.
> o The power connector is very loose, and power can be cut by simply
> moving the wires around. I'm pretty sure the problem is with the connector,
> though there could be a cold solder joint on the pins. To find out, we'd have to
> take off the glass, which, again, would suck to do.
> o When energizing the flippers, the display seems to dim temporarily.
> This might indicate a power issue.
> Marvin suggests just buying a new display for $120 instead of worrying about
> fixing it, because if the display is "outgassing" then there's nothing we can do
> to fix it. But if this is a power issue, maybe related to the weak flipper
> problem, then we'd just be throwing that money away on a new DMD, which worked
> very well when the game initially arrived at GK.
> * After putting the machine back together, I powered it up and noticed that
> most of the coils were dead. I checked all connectors and fuses, and still
> nothing worked, so I turned the game off because I had to go home. When I came
> in this afternoon, the game was up and running, so I'd like to thank the secret
> little elves that live underneath Burgertime and only come out at night for
> correcting that issue for me.
> 11/06/05 - ADR
> The lower left flipper has always been a little weaker than the right, even
> after installing a new coil. Now, it's even worse and the upper left flipper has
> weakened too; it's almost impossible to make the upper ramp facing it. The auto-
> plunge coil isn't hitting the ball as hard as it used to, either; the ball often
> has trouble launching completely around the outer orbit.
> 10/23/05 - Mark
> * Wondering what would happen if we sent an insomniac to catch a maniac, and
> what the resultant multiball might be like.
> 10/9/05 - Mark
> * None of the flashers (both in the backbox and on the playfield) work. Two
> seperate lines supply +20V to two sets of flashers: J106 pin 5 and J107 pin 6.
> Both lines show only .5V when flashers are turned on in test mode. All backbox
> fuses test positive for continuity. I suspect a blown transformer or, as Anthony
> suggested, a problem with a shared power rectifier. Will research more when I
> have time to open up the schematics. Any suggestions of where else to look would
> be appreciated.
> * Replaced dead bulbs, cleaned playfield
> 8/11/05 - ADR
> * Installed correct LL flipper coil.
> * Adjusted right loop guide to send falling balls to LR flipper instead of
> bouncing them off the right kicker.
> * Replaced coin slot lights.
> * Found two halves of a broken plastic inside the cabinet. Couldn't find
> where on the playfield it was supposed to be installed. Left the parts inside
> the cabinet.
> NOTE: After a powerup, all coils, including the flippers, went dead and stayed
> dead throughout several power cycles. Fuses were all fine, however. Reseating
> connectors on the driver boards seemed to revive them. Watch out for this!
> 8/5/05 - JDM
> * Damn mumbling Stallone! Give the man some elocution lessons, please!
> 8/4/05 - ADR
> * Apparently, we must send said maniac, according to Stallone:
> http://imdb.com/title/tt0106697/quotes
> 7/26/05 - Mark
> * LL Flipper has the wrong coil installed. We need an FL11629/50V, which is
> apparently on order.
> * It still takes a maniac to catch a maniac, though alternatives are being
> investigated.
> Eight Ball Champ
> ----------------
> 9/11/05 - ADR
> * Mark checked the wiring and switches and found that the right flipper
> switch was very rough. He filed down the contacts and the right flippers now
> work 100%.
> 8/27/05 - ADR
> * Customer complained that "right flipper doesn't work." I tried it and
> found that *both* right flippers were dead. This leads me to believe that the
> fault lies with a switch or connector, not any particular coil.
> 8/14/05 - Mark
> * Replaced LR flipper coil. It seems to work fine, but the mounting bracket
> is stripped out, so the coil could only be partially secured beneath the
> playfield. That may have to be replaced eventually.
> * I noticed that a lot of hardware had fallen off the underside of the
> playfield and into the bottom of the machine. Resecured some obvious stuff.
> * On a related note, the linkages on all three flippers are missing C-clamps
> to secure the entire mechanism together, and I couldn't find any to replace
> them. They all work well enough, but it seems strange.
> 8/11/05 - ADR
> * Put on floor to fill space left by Star Trek.
> 7/3/05 - ADR
> * Moved game to back room for troubleshooting and repair.
> * Left flipper occasionally sticking (so I've heard; haven't seen it myself)
> * Several non-functional feature lights
> * Update: Right flipper fails after game is on for a while
> 6/19/05 - Mark
> I checked out the game, and the right flipper seemed fine. No problems with the
> wiring or EOS switch or anything. So I'm leaving it on until the problem
> resurfaces. Maybe it's an issue with the connector at the backbox?
> Fish Tales
> ----------
> 12/30/05 - Mark
> * Tilt bob came off - put back on and the machine no longer tilts. Returned
> to duty.
> 12/28/05 john
> * When the game starts the and the ball is put in the launch ramp, it tilts.
> it is atomatically tilting over and over again
> 11/30/05 - Neil
> * Put yellow flipper button back in Fish Tales. returned game to service.
> 10/14/05 - Neil
> * Replaced the MPU with a replacement board. Turned game back on, set new
> settings, and crossing fingers that it'll continue working. Keep an eye on it,
> and if it hoses up, please CALL ME and let me know. 503-750-8794. Thanks,
> 9/4/05 - Mark
> * Replaced all GI on F109, which is the line that keeps blowing, and the
> flasher behind the headboard fish. Looks solid so far, but I'll keep an eye on
> it.
> * Fixed the ball-stuck-in-ramp issue. It was just put back together weird.
> * Leveled the table, which was no easy task as the bolts had fused up pretty
> bad on the front right leg.
> Overall the game is looking and playing better than it ever has. Knock on wood.
> 8/14/05 - CNB
> * Verified +5 rail is solid as a rock and is not believed to be the root
> cause of the reset problems seen before
> * Unable to replicate reset problem even after heavy play
> * Replaced right flipper fuse
> * Reflowed solder on power connector to main CPU board since it was
> questionable
> * Reflowed solder on reset IC on the CPU board - possibly the source of
> intermittent reset problems
> * Removed all flux from the CPU board - it was extremely pervasive and could
> conduct after things warm up
> * Replaced GI connectors, male and female, on the power driver board/harness
> * Reflowed solder on questionable ICs around the CPU board
> * Reseated CPU and EPROMs - cleaned the crappy sockets they're in
> Keep an eye on the game, and put it back in service. I was never able to get the
> reset/freak out problems to occur - before or after the fixes. I did a good
> solid 10 minutes of multiball - ridiculous multiball - and never saw a problem.
> If the game does break, try to find out what was happening during the time it
> reset and/or freaked out. Multiball? Flippping flippers? Did the game pulse the
> GI and fire solenoids, then reset? Please ask customers if this happens.
> 7/13/05 - ADR
> * Ran tests and inspected wiring to localize the source of the reset
> problem. EOS switches, catapult coil, reel, and catapult sensor wiring look and
> test just fine, but the game still resets without warning during a normal game.
> I wasn't there to see what happened immediately before, unfortunately.
> 7/13/05 - Mark
> Still resetting in mid-game:
> * It's definitely not an EOS problem. The game isn't complaining about that
> switch, and switch test verifies that both EOS switches work solidly. Both
> switches even look pretty new.
> * The game WAS complaining about the Catapult switch (next to the multiball
> reel); the ball sensor micro's actuator was bent out of shape, which is why it
> took forever to kick balls out during multiball. I fixed that, then started a
> game and tossed some balls into the multiball lock. Sure enough, every time
> multiball started (and once just during ball lock), the DMD would lock up, coils
> would lock on, GI would cut in and out, and eventually the game would reset.
> * It's not clear what's causing the reset to happen, but it definitely has
> something to do with multiball. I'm guessing it's related to the reel, because
> one time the lockup happened when the ball had been locked and then kicked into
> the reel and rotated around, and the other two times it happened, the reel was
> feeding balls into the catapult.
> * I seem to remember that this is the exact same problem we've had with the
> machine before, like a year or two ago. I can't remember what the resolution was
> back then.
> 7/10/05 - Mark
> * Fixed many intermittent feature lights (cold solder joints)
> * Cleaned playfield
> 7/6/05 - ADR
> * Crashing & resetting mid-game. Main interconnect ribbon cable already
> replaced. One crash caused all solenoids to stop working. Replaced blown fuse on
> solenoid power supply line. Installed remaining new ribbon cables. Old cables
> are on backbar, labelled.
> To Do:
> * Rebuild GI connector (again)
> * Figure out why top row of backbox lights and fish eye light keep blowing a
> fuse (ADR: suggestion: a bulb may be shorted. As an initial test, pull all bulbs
> on circuit and operate.)
> * Many non-functional feature lights (cold solder joints, probably)
> * Figure out why it kicks out multiball balls so slowly; is that a feature?
> ~5 seconds between balls
> 4/9/05 - ADR
> Problem: Freezes and reboots a few seconds into a game
> Cause: Intermittent board interconnect ribbon cable?
> Fix: Sprayed contact cleaner on main address/data bus ribbon cable connectors
> 9/15/04 - ADR
> * Found the one remaining FlipTronics repair kit
> * Replaced the cracked slug and linkage
> * Realigned flippers with inlanes (they used to be too shallow)
> * Cleaned playfield and reel
> * Replaced burned-out "Lock 1" lamp
> 9/5/04 - ADR
> * Right flipper sticks up. Coil pulled slug in too far, causing linkage to
> wedge slightly inside. Adjusted coil mounts, the coil stop now prevents the
> linkage from contacting the coil. Game is back up and running.
> 8/12/04 - ADR
> * Solenoid firing causes reboot: found and replaced a blown 4A fuse.
> * Half of backbox GI lights out: trimmed and reinserted a frayed wire into
> the GI connector as best I could, and cleaned/re-tensioned the burned connector.
> Let it "burn in" for a few minutes; it got hot, but no hotter than the other GI
> connectors, so I called it good and put the game back together.
> 7/10/04 - ADR
> * DMD garbage pixels fixed. Connection was dodgy at the Fliptronics end of
> the lower ribbon cable running to the DMD board. Reseated, back to normal.
> 7/1/04 - Mark
> * Right flipper fuse blew on Fliptronics board and machine started resetting
> multiple times when flippers were activated. Reseated interconnect and replaced
> the fuse.
> 6/21/04 - ADR
> * All solenoids were dead on Fish Tales, I tracked it down to a blown fuse
> at F112. Replaced, all is well.
> * The bottom half of the backbox GI is out, I noticed, due to a wire
> completely frayed and pulled out of its connector. Was this left disconnected on
> purpose? Update: It probably popped out after being fatigued.
> 11/14/03 - CNB
> * Replaced broken right flipper bat.
> 11/9/03 - CNB
> * Complained of end of stroke switches (left and right) not working. End of
> stroke wire came off one of the switches. Resoldered - game is now again 100%.
> * Cleaned game and replaced a few burned out bulbs.
> 9/26/03 - CNB
> * Row 6 (except for 1 switch) in the switch matrix was completely out.
> Pulled the CPU board and found that the LM339s]= and [=2803s were HORRIBLY
> corroded, and I'm surprised the switches worked at all. I cleaned and resoldered
> in new parts. It had no effect on the problem. ;-(
> * I eventually found that the catapult ball sensor switch had two problems,
> wire had come loose, and no diode.
> 9/13/03 - CNB
> * Parts for preceding repairs cost $64.95.
> 9/6/03 - CNB
> * Replaced all supply capacitors, voltage regulators, and bridge rectifiers.
> Also performed several recommended modifications to the board to increase
> reliability.
> * Popped in the modded driver board, dead 5 volt and 20 volt rails. Grr....
> traced the problem on the 5 volt rail to a lifted trace. Installed jumper, still
> no 20 volts. Found fuse had blown, probably before I installed the board or
> removed it the first time. Now the flippers wouldn't work. Spent 30 minutes
> monkeying around with it and found the opto button power connector was buried
> behind a wiring harness. Flippers now work.
> * Set the game in test mode to flip the catapult for a while. After 5
> minutes, the DAMNED GAME RESET. Did it several times, too. I've replaced every
> single part in the circuit, and it's STILL resetting! I reseated the power block
> connector, and it's still resetting. For the time being, it's on and we'll see
> how it runs.
> 9/4/03 - CNB
> * I removed all the capacitors tonight and found two on the 5 volt rail that
> were starting to corrode. Ouch! I replaced *ALL* large caps and the 5 volt
> regulator, so hopefully this'll take care of it. If not, the bridge rectifiers
> are the only things left to replace, and they won't arrive until next week
> (backordered).
> 8/27/03 - CNB
> * Removed Fish Tales' driver board and took a very close look at the
> rectifiers and their solder joints. I have never seen colder solder joints! I
> resoldered all rectifiers and added new, cleaner solder to each point, hoping
> that this will fix the fuse blowing/resetting problem.
> * If it continues to blow fuses, I'm going to recommend putting in an 8 or
> 10 amp fuse in the 3 amp position so whatever coil is causing the problem will
> cause its drive transistor to short/explode/whatever. I'd rather replace a $0.80
> part than to keep coming down time after time to guess what the problem is.
> * I also added some heat sink compound to the rectifier and heat sink.
> 8/22/03 - CNB
> * Game was wigging out prety badly. Each time it would come up and start, it
> would reset. Repeatedly. Reseating the ribbon cable between boards took care of
> the resetting problem. To prevent possible future problems, I pinched the pin
> headers closer together to make them hug the cable VERY tightly, reseated and
> cleaned all of the higher voltage/current connectors, and played a few games.
> Seems just fine. Dunno if this actually fixed the proble,m but I suspect that
> it's at least part of the problem with the occasional fuse blowing. If the game
> wigs out, it can lock solenoids on, which causes fuses to blow.
> 8/1/03 - CNB
> * Had to rebuild the entire left flipper. The plunger was wedged inside the
> flipper coil sleeve badly. When I finally managed to get the plunger out, it
> looked like the opening scene in Superman where the meteor makes a huge assed
> tear in the ground. Upon closer examination of the plunger, a small metal chunk
> had broken off the end of the plunger and gotten wedged inside the sleeve and
> tore it up good. The coil itself was fine, but beyond repair since the sleeve
> was basically wedged in to place.
> * The coil went in the trash. New coil, new plunger, and new stop installed.
> The stop was slightly mushroomed as was the plunger. Note to self - when
> replacing coils, closely examine the plunger and stop. If either are mushroomed
> in the slightest, replace them both.
> 7/30/03 - CNB
> * Ball launcher coil read between 7 and 25 ohms and changed every time I
> thwacked it with my finger. Replaced it today with a new coil. Cross fingers
> that fuses won't blow any longer...
> 7/25/03 - CNB
> * Found the root cause to Fish Tales blowing fuses every few days. The left
> flipper solenoid had a 1N4004 that basically broke in two, so no surge
> protection was occuring on the primary winding of the left flipper coil. I
> replaced the existing 11629 coils with the stronger 11630 coils (on both
> flippers so it'll be even), cleaned connections, and reseated everything. This
> would definitely cause blown fuses. Hopefully everything will continue working
> now.
> * Started blowing the LEFT flipper fuse. Turns out the end of stroke switch
> had a wire off (the diagnostics also reported this). Resoldered, put back in
> service.
> * Main fuse blew again. Something else is going on.
> 7/8/03 - CNB
> * Found two blown fuses in Fish Tales - one is the main 50 volt line that
> feeds all solenoids - including the flippers (7 amp) and one subgroup of 16
> solenoids with a blown fuse (5 amp). I replaced them with new fuses and
> everything works perfectly. Played about 10 games. I also went in and
> individually tested each solenoid and beat the living crap out of it by banging
> on all sorts of solenoids. No fuses blew at all. I reseated all connectors just
> in case, and checked a few of the most common solenoids that were on that 16
> block of fuses. It's back in service.
> 7/4/03 - CNB
> * The solenoid wire for the ball launcher had broken off just above the
> solder lug AGAIN. Looked to be frayed pretty badly, so I cut the wire waaaaay
> back and soldered in another
> longer solid core wire, so hopefully it'll hold better.
> 6/6/03 - ADR
> * The plastic belt *broke*. I removed the reel and mounted a similar-sized
> rubber ring. So far, it's holding.
> * Replaced AA batteries.
> 5/14/03 - CNB
> * Replaced broken flipper.
> 4/3/03 - CNB
> * Cam locks installed.
> * Flipper has been fixed (bad coil!).
> * New flipper assemblies (they look sharp!).
> * Shopped out playfield.
> * Replaced white towers with yellow towers (the correct color).
> * Cleaned all switch contacts.
> * Adjusted flippers.
> I still have to shop out the upper playfield (which requires a LOT of
> disassembly), clean all the switch contacts, and adjust the flippers.
> Haunted House
> -------------
> 1/1/06 - ADR
> * Ball stuck in "Extra Ball" slot repeatedly last night and this morning.
> Reforming the ball guide further helped, but the ball continued to wedge under
> the plastic covering the slot. I added spacer washers under the plastic on the
> two standoffs nearest the slot. The plastic is now raised enough to clear the
> ball.
> * Seeing that the ball scoop over the upkicker was raised enough to bend the
> plastic covering it, I attempted to re-form it, but it made no appreciable
> difference. I also cleaned the upkicker tube while it was out of the game.
> 12/31/05 CNB
> * Cleaned and readjusted saucer switch. It was visibly oxidized and not
> adjusted well. Did 40 successive saucer ball placements and the machine
> registered/kicked it out each time.
> * Discovered that the rightmost "Extra ball" slot couldn't be entered
> because the playfield plastics and ball guide had both warped to the point where
> a ball wouldn't go in. Readjusted both and the "extra ball" slot now works.
> * Took a quick look at the upkicker problem. Most of the time it's not
> kicking the ball up, but I took a close look at the solenoid and the plunger is
> really loose. This is due to a defective sleeve and possibly a defective
> plunger. I'll order parts. The game will still eventually kick the ball up to
> the upper playfield.
> 12/26/05 john - ball keeps getting stuck in the "speacial" slot on the lower
> play field. also upkicker is still having problems(tends to get up after 3 to 4
> tries). i would like to note after finishing this update i read neils entry
> below and i have no idea how to clean the speacial switch.
> 12/23/05 - CNB
> * Up kicker is working 85% of the time. I played a few games and things
> seemed steady, so I put the game back in service. Keep an eye on the up kicker.
> No noted problems in the "special" kicker in the dozen or so times I got in to
> the special section of the lower playfield. If this is intermittent, the problem
> is likely a dirty switch (please clean next time this happens).
> * No sound problem due to wire had been pulled off one of the speaker
> terminals. Reconnected - sound works great now. Be careful when replacing the
> lower playfield.
> * Next time, make sure that the key is removed from the head piece and the
> backbox locked. It was left there, in an unlocked position, and the glass lifted
> right out.
> 12/13/05 - JDM
> Mark pointed out that the lower metal piece was identical to the upper piece
> before it broke, so I swapped the 2 pieces and drilled a hole in the broken tab
> to hold the spring. So now the tube is screwed to the upper playfield again.
> In trying to align the tube, I had it working pretty good, until I bumped the
> table and saw it glancing off to the side. The lower playfield has amost an 1/8"
> gap between it and the sidewalls of the box. A good bump will move it enough to
> misalign the tube. My solution was to wedge a piece of paper between the
> playfield and one side. If you move the lower playfield, be sure to replace the
> wedge. (It's at the left rear corner. -ADR)
> Now the kicker works about 5 out of 6 times. If the curved guide at the top
> could be adjusted forward so that the ball hits it on the curved part, that
> might increase the odds of the ball escaping.
> The sound wasn't working at all. :( It's probably a connector problem, but I
> didn't have time to track it down. Also, the kicker for the special hole in the
> lower playfield isn't kicking, so the ball gets stuck there. Tilting the machine
> to get the ball out is how I moved the lower playfield as described above.
> 12/11/05 - CNB
> Mark and I looked at the tube today. There's a metal guide piece that holds the
> tube in place. Both screw tabs have broken off, and something else will need to
> be fabricated to get it to stay in place. Jeffrey was told about it, and he'll
> probably figure something out.
> 11/24/05 - ADR
> A while ago I noticed that the metal diverters at the top of each upkicker had
> straightened out quite a bit due to the ball repeatedly hitting them like a
> hammer. The upper diverter has straightened so much, it aims the ball directly
> into a bar that it is supposed to roll under!
> They've gotten to this point before, apparently: the lower diverter is pushing
> up a playfield plastic which cracked and was glued back together by the previous
> owner.
> When tackling the problem again, start by bending these diverters back down. We
> should probably also check them regularly in anticipation of the problem
> returning.
> 11/19/05 - Mark
> Tried to adjust the upkick tube from the basement to the main playfield this
> morning before my shift. Still can't seem to find the sweet spot where the ball
> always clears the tube, and I ran out of time and had to open the arcade after a
> half hour of dicking with it. So I've left the game off for now. If I can, I'll
> work on it some more this afternoon. Otherwise, I'll fix it early Sunday.
> 8/1/05 - Mark
> Turns out that the metal bracket attached to the lower playfield, which secures
> and controls positioning of the plastic tube, was loose. It can be adjusted
> forward and backward by two screws mounted at the base. I moved the bracket
> forward (towards the player) and tighted it down. Ball comes up fast now.
> 8/1/05 - CNB
> There are a variety of problems that can occur:
> 1) On most Haunted Houses, the solenoid trigger switch is a solenoid driven
> switch. I replaced that circuit with a solid state driver, so that cannot be the
> root cause of the issue.
> 2) Most common issue is the plunger being off center when the ball is resting on
> the solenoid plunger. It hits as a slight angle, and doesn't get the optimum hit
> point and deflects at a slight angle, losing energy.
> 3) The tube isn't 100% straight, which causes the ball to bounce off the tube on
> the way up, losing momentum.
> 4) Least likely problem is the solenoid is getting weak, or there's binding/dirt
> in the plunger.
> 8/1/05 - Mark
> Upkick can't get the ball from the basement to the main playfield anymore. Game
> shut off until I can investigate. Neil, any advice? I know this is a common
> failure on this game.
> 7/3/05 - ADR
> Installed a new rubber ring on the upper left post to bounce the ball out of
> that corner before it can rest there.
> * Player 3 display occasionally flickers in sync with lighting animation
> * Ball keeps getting stuck in upper left corner of the game; looking for
> something suitable to stick in the crack between the rubber and the metal
> railing so the ball can't rest in that nook.
> 3/20/04 - CNB
> Cam locks installed, game placed into service at GK.
> 3/14/04 - CNB
> First off, the person who designed this pin electrically should be taken out and
> shot. I've never seen such a horrid network of ground wires. One takes it from
> the transformer/rectifier board, to the power supply, to the MPU, to the
> playfield electronics and BACK to the MPU. Sheesh! Anyway, I spent hours
> solidifying all of the grounds. There was about 2/10ths of a volt differential
> between the MPU's ground and the driver board's ground, and after I fixed it,
> two of the coils that were intermittently firing stopped. I still have one left,
> but I don't believe it's a grounding problem.
> Anyway, the stupid problem I had with nonoperating drop targets and lights
> turned out to be a connector that had come partially loose during my lifting and
> removing the playfields repeatedly. All of the lights on the playfield are
> working.
> All of the switches on the main playfield need to be gone through and cleaned.
> Some are intermittent.
> Still need to make minor adjustments to the game to make it play optimally. I do
> have a sticky flipper. Do we have any plastic sleeves for Gottlieb flippers? I
> believe they're all the same.
> 3/12/04 - CNB
> All of the ground mods have been made, I rebuilt the power supply, components
> updated, switches cleaned, replaced all the lights, and a myriad of other
> things.
> 3/7/04 - CNB
> Tinned all edge connectors on the boards. The driver board had *57* VIAs -almost
> none had solder through them.
> High Speed
> ----------
> 8/26/05 - John
> Left coin slot jammed up. I cleared it out and tried to insert a quarter, but
> quarter got cought up in "cleared slot". Coin mech may not be lined up
> correctly. I taped the slot up.
> 8/7/05 - ADR
> Symptom: Left Ramp, Right Ramp, Left+Center+Right Spinner, and UR Hideout
> switches not registering.
> Cause: Switch matrix wire IJ8 pin 3 (white wire w/blue trace) broken off at UR
> Hideout switch.
> Fix: Reattached wire.
> Symptom: Left Ramp switch intermittent.
> Cause: Switch VERY dirty.
> Fix: Cleaned with emery paper.
> 7/24/05 - ADR
> Symptom: UR flipper dead.
> Problem: Coil melted down due to linkage losing its insulation, arcing on EOS
> switch, and physically damaging it, resulting in linkage lodging on EOS switch
> and burning up coil.
> Fix: Rebuilt flipper with new EOS switch, linkage, and coil; works great. Had to
> replace flipper fuse with one rated at 5A due to being out of the correct 7A
> rating.
> 7/17/05 - Mark
> Major issue: The coil sleeve for the upper right flipper has melted completely
> shut for the second time, causing the UR flipper to not function and the 7A fuse
> on the lower right backbox PCB (right above the bridge rectifier) to blow. I
> think the coil sleeve is melting because the pads on the EOS switch on that
> flipper are really crusty and need to be replaced.
> The coil sleeve cannot be removed from the solenoid. The last time this
> happened, we had to replace the original coil with a FL-11630/50V coil with two
> diodes attached to the pads, which Anthony hacked together; I don't remember the
> original coil's part number, and I don't have a manual for High Speed, but I
> know we didn't have the proper replacement coil at the time and probably still
> don't. So we'll need to find the original coil's part number and reorder a
> couple. We also need more 7A fuses, because we're totally out (get more 8A fuses
> while you're at it). Once we have those, the game can be repaired.
> In the meantime, High Speed has been shut off and all of the flipper's hardware
> and the balls are sitting in the game's coin box.
> 7/6/05 - JDM
> Music fixed by replacing EPROM. The self-test said that this was the problem.
> Next time I'll run it first before blindly swapping chips.
> 7/3/05 - Mark
> Feature lights fixed throughout game. One of the backbox feature light
> connecters (with all the yellow wires) will need to be replaced with Molex
> connectors eventually, since it is a little flaky. Not an emergency, though.
> 4/14/05 - ADR
> Symptom: UR flipper stuck in "flipped" position.
> Cause: Missing insulation from EOS switch actuator caused it to lodge against
> EOS switch leaf.
> Fix: Insulated EOS switch leaf with electrical tape. Temporary fix until real
> actuator insulation is installed.
> 2/05/05 - ADR
> Symptom: Left flipper not returning to rest.
> Cause: coil return spring broken.
> Fix: Replaced spring.
> 12/23/04 - CNB
> Installed grounded plug.
> 12/23/04 - ADR
> Received many complaints that "you can't make it up the ramp." The ball seemed
> to be dragging on the protective mylar covering the center of the playfield, so
> I buffed it smooth with Novus 2, then polished it with Novus 1. Marked
> improvement: ramp shot is much more feasible, and the game is "higher speed"
> overall.
> 12/09/04 - ADR
> * Found the cause of intermittent flippers: the transistor that controls the
> CPU board's flipper relay had been replaced, poorly, by soldering it flat
> against the face of the board. Pulled and installed it properly, flippers now
> work consistently.
> * Pulled the power board and installed the replacement GI relay. GI now
> flashes and appears/disappears during animations and special events as it
> should. This really adds a lot to the playing experience.
> * Finally, the traffic light housing at the ramp entrance has been hanging
> too low and blocking about half the ramp shots. Today it finally fell off, so I
> reattached its mounting bracket to the ramp, which required partially removing
> the ramp to access the screw holes. The housing is cracked and warped and no
> longer fits the bracket, so I taped it on.
> 11/24/04 - ADR
> * UR flipper: original serial-wound coil had melted down. :-( We had no old-
> style coils so I replaced it with an equivalent used, but good, parallel-wound
> coil, taking care to observe its different pinout. Also cleaned and gapped the
> EOS switch.
> * Two groups of switched lights out: tracked down to loose light matrix
> column connector at 1J7. Reseated, lights are on. We should probably
> clean/retension the pins on this connector at some point.
> * Right bumper rarely firing: skirt switch stack out of alignment. Cleaned,
> gapped, and tightened down switch, bumper is triggered in all directions.
> * Apron only half installed(!): One screw was wrong type; replaced with
> correct type and locked apron down tightly.
> * Replaced some burned out lights.
> * GI out: waiting on parts
> 10/31/04 - Mark
> The wiring on the right flipper switch might've been short circuiting, which I
> guess would cause some kind of inconsistent flipper behavior, so I pried the
> wires apart and left it at that. Hopefully it's fixed, but we should keep an eye
> on it.
> 10/29/04 - JDM
> Replaced GI relay.
> 10/14/04 - JDM
> * Moved to GK.
> * Background music doesn't play.
> * Installed coin mechs.
> * Placed into service at GK.
> 12/25/03 - JDM
> Failed 100V diode on PS. Replaced w/ 91V diodes to extend display life &
> installed flameproof resistors per Marvin's Guide.
> 12/5/03 - JDM
> Stole GI relay to fix F14 Tom Cat.
> 11/2/03 - JDM
> Replaced alpha displays. Had to rework pcbs due to new displays having nipples.
> King Pin
> --------
> 1/1/06 - ADR - Fixed the game start problems listed below and returned game to
> service.
> * Failure to reset score to zero caused by intermittent contacts on ball-in-
> play unit. Cleaned and adjusted, score now consistently resets.
> * "Endless loop" on game start due to A interlock failing to reset. Adjusted
> coil positions and gapped switches, interlock now sets/resets reliably.
> * Removed light bulbs behind figures on backglass to prevent further paint
> separation until I find a permanent fix.
> 12/15/05 - John
> * i went upstairs and found king pin turned off. i turned it on and the tilt
> light was on and the game was making noises like it does when it starts a new
> game but none of the numbers were moving(normally i associate this sound with
> the numbers resetting to zero. i put in a quarter and the tilt light went off
> but the game continued to make the funny noises.
> 9/18/05 - ADR
> * Fixed crediting problem by adjusting switches on credit unit. Cleaned
> zero-position switches on scoring wheels in an effort to kill the "endless loop"
> problem during startup.
> 8/25/05 - ADR
> * Lower left flipper sometimes sticks in "up" position. Cleaned slug, coil
> stop, and sleeve on lower left and right flippers. LL flipper now returns to
> rest every time.
> * Not all drop targets stayed up after a reset. Adjusted drop target reset
> coils, all drop targets now reset every time.
> * Lockdown bar wouldn't stay put due to lockdown lever being bent badly.
> Removed entire lockdown mechanism, hammered and pried lever back into shape. Bar
> now locks down securely.
> * Levelled playfield.
> 8/14/05 - ADR
> * Replaced burned hold coil.
> * Cleaned and gapped flipper, kicker, bumper, drop target, and flipper
> button switch contacts.
> Problem: Game won't exit Tilt mode during startup sequence.
> Cause: Normally-open tilt switch on playboard stuck closed.
> Fix: Gapped switch.
> Police Force
> ------------
> * Lots of burned out GI
> * Police car will not return to garage at game start
> * Spinner broken; it's sitting inside the cabinet
> * Jackpot display non-functional
> * Bad segments on top score display
> * Diamond Weasel drop targets don't always reset at game start
> * Needs new light sockets installed in several places, particularly
> underneath the shark and weasel playfield features
> Radical!
> --------
> 11/17/05 - ADR
> * The 'A' ramp shot stopped registering again due to left inlane rollover
> switch making intermittently. Reformed wire, switch makes reliably.
> 8/28/05 - ADR
> * Problem: Started up displaying "Adjust Failure." Clearing it resulted in
> zeroed stats (coins included) and re-initialized settings. Cause: Battery backup
> failure due to dead & corroded batteries. Fix: Installed new batteries.
> 7/13/05 - ADR
> * In response to increased player scoring, I boosted base replay score from
> 4.6 mil to 8 mil.
> 7/10/05 - ADR
> * Replaced 3 of 4 remaining missing/burned out flashers. (FYI: The two set
> into the playfield are #89s.)
> * Aligned left blue loop "MIDDLE MAN" microswitch to always trigger when
> ball passes. FYI: Adjust sensitivity by loosening far screw (installed in a
> slot) and rotating switch.
> 6/21/05 - Mark
> * Fixed broken wiring on first switch of left ramp, so the "A" triggers now.
> * Replaced a bunch of missing/burned out flashers, though I skipped a couple
> that were too much of a pain to get to.
> * Right sling has chatter, but I didn't have time to gap it before it got
> busy, so someone should fix that.
> 6/18/05 - Mark
> * Velcroed left score display. It sticks out more because it still has
> plastic standoffs. If this bothers anybody, just remove the standoffs and velcro
> the display directly to the chips on the PCB behind it, like the righthand
> display.
> 3/21/05 - ADR
> * Fixed outhole and ball trough switches by adjusting wiring.
> * Aligned shooter lane guide to aim ball up left ramp.
> * Tape on "I" ramp was rejecting shots. Removed and re-taped. Shot is much
> cleaner and easier now.
> 2/9/05 - ADR
> * Completely restored Radical!'s GI by cleaning and resoldering the GI input
> header pins on the interconnect board, and finding and fixing a short in one of
> the GI chains (a fused light bulb with zero resistance.)
> 2/5/05 - ADR
> Lower left flipper dead due to broken EOS switch wire. Reconnected and
> resoldered.
> 1/30/05 - Mark
> Damn this !@#%!@#%!@#% game. I refixed the GI connector in the backbox, which in
> less than one month had started to burn up again, mainly at the second pin from
> the bottom. When I pulled the connector, it pulled that same pin right off of
> the board, and I had a hell of a time reattaching it because all the padding had
> burned off.
> Some of the GI works now, and some of it doesn't. Someone else needs to attack
> this problem; if I have to touch that connector one more time, I'm going to hurl
> the entire table over the balcony.
> 1/20/05 - ADR
> Drilled and pop-riveted coin door with Mark's help.
> 1/19/05 - ADR
> Reattached LL flipper EOS wire, aligned and re-formed left trough upper switch.
> 1/16/05 - ADR
> LL flipper sticking in up position: Cutting power did not release the flipper,
> so I knew it was a mechanical problem. Turns out the return spring had broken in
> two and bound up the linkage. Removed smaller half of spring, and flipper now
> returns.
> 12/26/04 - ADR
> Mark, remember how installing those new GI connectors was your most favorite job
> ever? Well, you're gonna have to do it again on Radical! Most of the wires have
> come loose from the wiper contacts. You'll have to crimp them down better if you
> want them to stay.
> 12/4/04 - Mark
> New GI connectors: Radical looks between one and two million billion times
> better with all its GI functioning. I definitely think it's going to start
> earning more money now.
> 11/30/04 - ADR
> The doors on this game and 720 were already partly off when we got them from
> Ryan, but now they are much worse. Radical!'s in particular is very close to
> coming off.
> The failure point is the weld seam where the door attaches to the hinge. When
> closed, there is no space between the two halves of the hinge, so installing a
> nut and bolt or some other hardware is out of the question. I think it will have
> either be welded, riveted, or replaced with another door.
> 11/17/04 - ADR
> GI circuits dead due to burned-up power interconnects. Fixing them for good
> requires replacing both the header pins and connectors. Marvin's Guide outlines
> the specific parts needed:
> * 27 x .156" Trifurcon terminal pins w/three wipers, tin plated phosphor
> bronze, for 18 to 20 gauge wire - Mouser part# 08-52-0113
> * 3 x .156" 12-pin header with lock - Mouser part# 26-48-1125
> * 3 x .156" 12-pin housings, white - Mouser part# 26-03-4121
> complete project info: http://marvin3m.com/sys11/index1.htm#connect
> 11/6/04 - Mark
> Radical's GI is still almost totally out. I can fix it, but I need that 9-pin
> connector I've been asking for. Either that, or permission to solder the wires
> directly to the pins, which I have no problem doing. Also, the coin doors on
> that game and on 720 Degrees (both Ryan's games, ironically) are about to fall
> completely off of their hinges. Is there a way to fix this without having to
> rivet them back on?
> Solar City
> ----------
> 10/22/05 - ADR
> * Installed screw plate on front left leg. Table is solid! Other legs were
> already solid, so I saved the second screw plate.
> 8/5/05 - CNB
> * Screw plates for Gottlieb are in the Fedex box in the office next to the
> pinball box
> 7/24/05 - ADR
> * Cleaned and gapped other switches related to startup sequence. Game now
> starts solidly every time and is back in operation.
> 7/17/05 - ADR
> * Cleaned and regapped all switches related to startup sequence. Appears to
> have solved the problem, but keep an eye on it.
> * Adjusted covered coin mech to 2 plays per coin and removed tape. Both coin
> mechs are now operable.
> 7/7/05 - ADR
> * Game occasionally gets stuck mid-startup sequence. Need to find the
> relevant switches and gap/clean them.
> Space Invaders
> --------------
> 9/7/05 - ADR
> UL flipper assembly completely loose from playfield, 3 of 4 screws lying in
> bottom of game...plus 1 that fell from the UR flipper assembly. UL flipper also
> completely loose from linkage.
> I screwed both assemblies back down and tightened set screws on UL flipper
> linkage. Screws wouldn't completely set, due to holes being somewhat stripped,
> probably the reason they loosened in the first place. Need to fill in the holes
> or install fatter screws.
> Also, right outlane guide had come halfway out of the playfield. Reseated.
> 3/18/05 - ADR
> Coin reject coil lever got jammed and the game stopped taking coins. I adjusted
> the lever so it hopefully won't happen again.
> Star Trek '78
> -------------
> GAME TURNED OFF - 12/25/05 CNB -
> * Replaced TIP120 with TIP102. It was causing the outhole kicker coil to
> lock on.
> * Took driver/reg board out and home with me to upgrade with additional
> strength enhancements - board is perfectly functional.
> * Left slingshot bumper plastic end piece has come off, causing it to not
> function at all. Removed plastic piece - slingshot functionl again, but I
> suspect it'll go through rubbers like crazy. Jeffrey has the part and will see
> if a Williams slingshot armature is suitable. If not, we'll get something from
> Marco.
> Minor Annoyances:
> * Plumb bob tilt ring is wrong size.
> * Right outlane special light always lit regardless of scoring mode.
> * Right inlane and outlane light inserts were installed backwards at the
> factory! See for yourself...
> 12/23/05 - CNB
> * Installed fixed driver board
> * Fixed .1" pin that came out of the main supply board feed -
> replaced/resoldered
> * Couldn't get the .056" pin out of J3 on the driver board (wire came out of
> the connector) so I soldered the pin directly to its neighbor (it's connected to
> it on the pin header anyway)
> * Removed 1 amp under playfield fuse holder (broken). The 43 volt line is
> protected by another fuse anyway. This is what was stopping voltage going to the
> playfield solenoids.
> * No sound. Traced problem to bad TIP29C on the sound board (no 12 volts).
> Took board to replace it.
> * Left slingshot bumper doesn't work. Might be a bad TIP102 or CA3081. Parts
> on order.
> * Lamp connector in upper right hand corner of lamp driver board split in
> half - causing intermittent lights - needs replacement
> 12/15/05 - CNB
> * Found and corrected a solder bridge on two pins on connector J3 on the
> driver board. This board's high voltage supply is fried, and needs to be
> rebuilt. Parts are on order.
> * Swapped out driver board with a board with a known good high voltage
> display (out of Night Rider). Playfield solenoids wouldn't work, nor would the
> flippers. Found there was a missing shunt diode on the driver board, and a wire
> that had broken off (to repair a bad trace). Star Trek now powers up, game boots
> and starts, flippers work, and coin reject coil works, but none of the solenoids
> fire. This appears to be a problem with the wiring itself rather than the driver
> board, as both driver boards (even the one with the bad high voltage section)
> acts the same way. Measured voltage at the coils on the playfield - 0 volts.
> Expecting 43VDC. Didn't have time to trace the wire to find out why 43 volts
> isn't going to the coils.
> * There are two connector pins that are coming out - one is on the power
> supply distribution board. It needs a new .1" female pin, and one of the wires
> on J3 (25 pin connector) has come out and needs to be resoldered. Didn't get
> time to fix it prior to us closing GK.
> 12/11/05 - CNB
> * Replaced rightmost headers on driver board
> * Mark replaced rightmost female plugs that go in to the driver board. After
> reattaching everything, a fuse popped. The connector was on upside down, and
> after placing the correct way, something smoked on the driver board and blew the
> 3/4A fuse. This is the high voltage fuse. ;-( The problem could be a miswired
> header connector, a solder flow/bridge shorting problem on the driver board, or
> a component that was screwed up by plugging the connector in upside down. Mark
> is going to verify, wire for wire, that the J1 connector is wired properly. If
> this checks out OK, I'll go fix the driver board, as it's probably smoked anyway
> due to me plugging the connector in upside down.
> 11/28/05 john - a customer complained about losing a quarter in the machine. the
> lcd(?) screens on the back display board were off(the lights to display the very
> relistic art work were on). -note below is anthony's game turned off update may
> be the same problem? im also not sure why it was on again. did some one fix the
> game and forget to update the wiki?
> 11/25/05 ADR - GI on, but game isn't running. Looks like Neil's 'quick hack' has
> run its course.
> 11/20/05 - CNB
> Connector J3 on the power/solenoid board (upper right hand corner for both the
> board and connector) was intermittently providing power to the rest of the
> system. I removed it, cleaned the female end and male end of the connectors with
> contact cleaner. Prior to cleaning, I could very easily get power to cut out
> just by thwacking the wire. After cleaning and reseating, even wiggling the
> connector wouldn't make power go away, so I turned the game on and put it back
> in service.
> This is not a fix - it's a quick hack. I took notes on all connectors that
> needed to be replaced and will order them. If the game locks up/stops working,
> just shut it off and note it here.
> 9/04/05 - Mark
> Connectors J1 and J4 on the lamp driver board are hosed. J4 is cracked in half,
> with one of the middle connectors all melted up. J1 is burned up on pin 11
> (ground?), and cannot be properly seated. TP1 (5VDC) on that board is showing
> about .5mV. Did not have time to investigate further.
> 9/04/05 - Mark
> Same problem as 7/19/05. Game will not boot; GI comes on, but no displays, game
> will not play bootup song, and cannot start a game.
> 8/14/05 - CNB
> * Replaced main power connector on power distribution board with a new plug
> and pins. This made it solid again
> * Replaced right slingshot bumper rubber with a new one
> * I didn't notice any problems with the driver connector at the bottom of
> the driver board even after wiggling it. Keep an eye on it.
> * Noticed that the connector in the upper right corner of the driver board
> was the root issue of power not going to the driver board. I cleaned and
> reseated it, rocked it back and forth and moved the wires around and never did
> have another problem with it. This connector needs replacement - I'll order
> parts.
> Game back in service.
> 7/19/05 - Mark
> * Game will not boot; GI comes on, but no displays, game will not play
> bootup song, and cannot start a game. Do not have time to investigate today.
> 7/14/05 - ADR
> * All knife-edge targets difficult to trigger. Gapped, cleaned, targets now
> register more often than not.
> * Re-lit computer controlled playfield lights.
> 7/7/05 - CNB
> * Always lit lights are shorted SCRs on the lamp board (need to be replaced)
> * If someone has ample time, the crappy power connectors can be replaced by
> the larger higher current ones. The connectors are in the body of the pin, along
> with the instructions and the pins.
> 7/6/05 - ADR
> * Main board mounted with only one loose screw, almost certainly causing a
> grounding problem. Located two screws with "grabber" washers and securely
> fastened it.
> * 75% of playfield GI burned out. Stripped playfield and installed 15 new
> lights.
> * Found left kicker coil solenoid driver transistor's pins soldered together
> on underside of board. Removed and resoldered. Left kicker now works.
> 6/26/05 - ADR
> * Moved to storage.
> 3/21/05 - ADR
> * Tilt mechanism hyper sensitive; needs different sensor ring to function
> properly. One that might work is sitting inside the cabinet.
> * Right special light always lit.
> * Burned out GI.
> * Not enough post nuts to attach one playfield plastic. I stored it inside
> the game.
> Star Trek The Next Generation
> -----------------------------
> 12/31/05 - CNB
> * When I came in today and turned the pin on, it was resetting all by itself
> - always in under 5 minutes or so. Sometimes it'd reset multiple times when it
> came up. I never noticed the reset being longer than usual, though I suspect
> that prior belief was due to it resetting during the reset cycle. I've seen it
> reset itself as it was booting, and the closest association I could see
> regarding problems was an attempt for the pin to move the left turret. I went in
> to setup and disabled it, and the pin is solid again. If I reenable it, the pin
> will reset again. Game returned to service. Saw a few customers play games on it
> without issue (I played a few as well). Keep an eye on it.
> * I verified voltages on the driver board. 5.062V On the driver board, and
> 4.987V on the CPU board, so not the same issues that Demolition Man had. I
> didn't see any dip in voltages when coils fired, either.
> * Something is definitely wrong with the left turret. There's at least a
> coil sleeve problem because the plunger sticks. It was stuck to the point where
> it wouldn't budge at all. If the coil can't move the plunger, it'll drop the
> voltage rails far enough to cause the game to reset, so I'm currently suspecting
> that this is the real problem. I also cleaned the optos on both turrets with Q
> Tips and Novus #1 (the optos were appreciably dirty). Didn't have time to
> investigate, but apparently the game is playable. Please keep an eye on it.
> 12/26/05 Mark: Game is occasionally resetting itself even while in attract mode.
> No idea why this is happening. The "time to restart" is notably longer than a
> usual powerup.
> * Also, the left phaser's coil sleeve needs to be replaced.
> * Occasionally the DMD will freeze. This is due to a crappy connection on
> the ribbon cable between the display driver board. I could've sworn I ordered
> the 14 pin ribbon cable, but we apparently didn't receive it. If it happens,
> power cycle the game or clean/reseat the ribbon cable connector.
> 12/26/05 - Mark
> * Finally figured out which game I keep hearing reset itself pstairs:
> ST:TNG. Anthony saw it booting up while he was up there, and then later I
> watched it reset.
> * Noticed that someone has reconnected power to the coin door lights. This
> used to regularly blow fuses in one of the two GI lines for still undetermined
> reasons. Perhaps related to the random reset issue above?
> * The left phaser's coil sleeve needs to be replaced. The coil shooter is
> getting stuck in the firing position, which blocks the ball opto in the phaser,
> which long story short causes the game to think the phaser is broken, and it
> auto-disables that feature as a result.
> 12/11/05 - CNB
> * Replaced GI female connector and solenoid female connector.
> * Traced fuse blowing problem to the right turret shooter solenoid which had
> both sides of the solenoid wired together. Mark gets the soggy cracker for that
> one. ;-)
> * Cleaned and reseated the DMD main power connector. This makes the display
> SIGNIFICANTLY better. The real problem is the female Molex connector needs to be
> replaced.
> * Game working again, and returned to service.
> 10/17/05 - Mark
> * GOOD NEWS: I replaced the 11-pin header pins on the power board at J120
> (GI). That brought about half of the backbox GI back up, but the connector
> itself is so hashed I'm amazed I even got that.
> We need one more 11 pin header for J121, and two replacement 11 pin
> connectors. We'll also need more of the pinchy inserts that go in the connectors
> (what are those called?). An order has been placed with Neil.
> * BAD NEWS: Ever since I put the power driver board back in ST:TNG (and also
> resoldered a broken return on the R Gun Kicker coil before powering it back up
> for the first time), F105 (solenoids #1-8) consistently blows about two seconds
> after booting. Something is probably wired up incorrectly. I'm going to grab the
> manual and double check my work if I have time this afternoon, but I'm afraid I
> won't. In the meantime, the game is turned off.
> 08/21/05 - Mark
> * Clipped actuator on borg lock micro a little shorter so it doesn't catch
> on the reset mechanism. Issues with that drop target not properly reseting seem
> to have dissipated
> * LL flipper still has problems. EOS switch is solid, so I don't think
> that's the problem. The flipper is weak when you hit the ball off of the tip of
> it, but not up near the shaft. I think the problem is mechanical, but I can't
> figure out where the problem actually is. Everything looks fine along the
> linkage. It's playable, so I turned it back on.
> 08/14/05 - JDM
> * Fixed multiball problem. The wires I reseated on 6/26/05 had come loose,
> and intermittent connections was causing crazy ball circulation problems. This
> time I soldered the damn wires to the connector; hopefully they'll hold.
> * Game still has problems w/ locking balls, weak left flipper, missing GI.
> 7/10/05 - Mark
> * Fixed broken feature lights: a connector under the playfield had come
> apart.
> * Repaired and gapped a few leaf switches, primary "Time" target.
> 6/26/05 - JDM
> Symptom: Ball launcher filling with balls.
> Cause: Bad ground connection.
> Fix: First looked at switch edge test. Saw multiple switches were intermittent.
> Moving wires on connector (on pcb bolted to ball trough just inside coin door)
> made switches change state. First pulled wires off connector, reseated. No joy.
> Realized that 8 or so switches were changing simultaneously, so it must be
> common/ground line. Soldered that wire to connector. Problem somewhat better,
> but not fixed. Then noticed that moving connector just in front of it (2 wires,
> 5 pins) caused same problem, plus LED on that board was going off. Removed and
> reseated wires, everything fixed. Leveled table & played a couple of games;
> everything seems to be working great. Return to duty!
> 6/19/05 - Mark
> * Finally installed the micro for the Borg drop target. This seemed to fix
> several other weird gameplay issues, as I had two great, trouble free games
> after installation.
> * I've heard people complaining that the left flipper is weak, but I don't
> agree. Just for the record.
> * Replaced some burned out lights.
> 6/05/05 - JDM
> Symptom: Right gun not firing.
> Cause: Broken wire on solenoid.
> Fix: Resoldered tab to solenoid.
> 5/28/05 - Mark
> The right phaser is no longer firing the ball, though it makes a sound when you
> pull the trigger.
> Most likely, one of the leads on the solenoid has broken off; it's happened
> before.
> 4/03/05 - ADR
> Symptom: Left gun not loading.
> Cause: Broken wire on "L.GUN POPPER" solenoid.
> Fix: Trimmed and resoldered both wires.
> * All flippers feel underpowered and sluggish. Maybe playfield just needs
> cleaning
> * Install new micro for Borg drop target. There's one in the pinball box.
> * Diagonal right phaser shot (from right phaser to "The Neutral Zone") is
> blocked by the looping habitrail. This is a total show stopper during Battle
> Simulator mission
> * Intermitent lights on playfield Enterprise engine/shield lights due to
> lousy soldering and lifted contact pads on PCB
> * Ball launcher trigger feels loose and sloppy, like your mom
> * One set of playfield GI occasionally pops fuse
> Star Wars (Data East)
> ---------------------
> 12/11/05 - Mark
> * Reattached broken shooter wire. Game returned to service.
> 10/24/05 - Mark
> * Backbox GI needs a new 9-pin Molex header/crimp/connector set installed at
> the power board. Current one is getting burned up on one line, and some backbox
> GI is out as a result. Order was emailed to Neil today.
> * Cleaned and tuned game. Unsurprisingly, it still sucks.
> 8/21/05 - ADR
> * Installed new motor for Death Star bar target. Motor works, but target
> won't raise due to one guide being broken in half. Need to fabricate new guide
> before everything will work. Target left in "down" position for now. Motor
> assembly in base of game.
> 8/11/05 - ADR
> * Installed new leftmost X-Wing knife-edge target.
> * Removed Death Star door assembly to replace motor. The head of an allen
> screw fastening a cam to the motor shaft snapped in half when I tried to turn
> it. >:-O Now an allen wrench can't get hold, nor can I grip the screw with any
> pliers or wrench well enough to turn it. The door assembly and replacement motor
> are in my inbox if anyone else wants to take a crack at it before I
> unintentionally do any further damage.
> 7/11/05 - Mark
> * One of the plastics protecting a leaf switch Xwing target broke in half.
> Anthony is looking up the part number for that, among other things, to submit a
> reorder to Neil.
> 7/3/05 - Mark
> * New power plug installed. Game power is no longer intermitent.
> 6/26/05 - Mark
> * Fixed ball detection microswitch in Force scoop. Jeffrey reattached the
> actuator lever to the microswitch using some arcane magic (dug out plastic
> around the tab that the lever pivots on w/ an Xacto knife, then bent the lever
> so it would stay on tab). The shot now consistently registers. Yay!
> * Cleaned some seriously sticky gunk off the playfield, which was a result
> of lifted Mylar. Game's a lot faster now.
> * Replaced some feature lights.
> 6/05/05 - JDM
> * Fixed clamp to secure playfield glass by bending sliding catch back up so
> that it can grab the hook on the metal apron. TAKE CARE THAT LEVER IS OUT OF WAY
> WHEN SHUTTING COIN DOOR. Otherwise, the catch will get bent!
> 5/28/05 - Mark
> * Fixed the "random points scoring" problem (x-wing #3 switch stuck shut),
> but...
> * The lockdown bar that clamps down over the playfield glass cannot be
> secured! It is pretty clearly not the original apron, and can easily be lifted
> off by anyone, making access to quarters in the bucket pretty damned easy.
> 5/28/05 - Mark
> * The power plug that was built for this machine is intermitent. Wiggling
> the cord near the base cuts power to the entire machine. It needs to be rebuilt.
> * Tilt is non-functional on this machine.
> 5/13/05 - ADR
> * Death Star "Bar Target" is driven by the same type of motor that rotates
> the Death Star. Swapped motors and verified that both driver circuits and both
> motors function; however, the bar target motor locks/skips on every rotation; it
> seems that either the primary or secondary drive gear is missing a tooth.
> I recommend swapping in the "rotate Death Star" motor, as its current function
> is strictly cosmetic and removing it would not affect gameplay.
> Motors are in original positions for now, with the bar target permanently in the
> "down" position.
> 5/11/05 - ADR
> * Right flipper stuck in up position, fixed by reattaching return spring.
> * Shut off the Rocky & Bullwinkle "Coming Soon" announcement.
> * Rotated Death Star popup target into the up position but couldn't get it
> to go back down.
> 5/05/05 - ADR
> * Pricing: 50 cents per play, timed 25 cent buy-in after game.
> * Center coin slot is taped off; DO NOT USE IT. The software always reads it
> as a dollar coin.
> * One bumper cannot be assembled, as its bumper cap standoff posts have
> stripped holes, rendering it inoperable. Need new standoff posts to fix.
> Terminator 2
> ------------
> 11/13/05 - Mark
> Cleaned and adjusted game again. Resecured the ship toy and swapped out some
> burnt bulbs.
> 10/9/05 - Mark
> Cleaned, leveled, and adjusted game. Looks and plays great.
> 8/14/05 - Mark
> * The actuator for the micro that detects multiball drop target hits cannot
> be properly attached to the micro. As such, it binds up the drop target
> mechanism, making the drop target behave inconsistently. Temporary solution was
> to simply bend the micro out of the way. The micro merely detects the target
> dropping so the game can say "get multiball," so it's function is mostly
> cosmetic. You can still activate multiball and get the extra ball and all that
> jazz.
> I'll look up the microswitch part number when I get a chance.
> 8/1/05 - Mark
> * Figured out why some solenoids died. From my email to Neil:
> "I got T2 working last night. I'll make a wiki entry about it this
> afternoon, but the gist of it is that the lines going in to connector J130
> (where I was seeing .6V on all but the knocker's line) is the return line. The
> IC pulls those lines low for a second to fire the coil, and when I took a logic
> probe to it, it was working fine. So then I started tracing the power line
> common to all those coils, which went to the knocker first (aha!), and then
> under the playfield, where it apparently died. Sure enough, the line had been
> severed way, way back in the body of the machine. I spliced it back together,
> and the coils came back to life. It looks like the drop target mechanism under
> the Terminator head pinched the wire off. We'll need a long term workaround for
> that, but for now its fine."
> I'll need to splice together a longer line so that it doesn't get bound up
> in the drop target coil, because the wire sometimes prevents the drop target
> from working (which is probably how it got pinched in half). I'll do that very
> soon.
> * Did a quick hack job on cold solder joints for a bunch of feature lights.
> * Game still needs to be leveled, but otherwise it looks and plays great.
> 7/26/05 - Mark
> * GI Molex header pins replaced on board; some pins had to be jumpered
> because the board was so badly burned that the pads had lifted completely off.
> Connector must still be replaced; waiting on parts
> * Line that powers kicker, gun, and ball drain coils has blown a fuse. Not
> yet sure if this is going to be a recurring issue, but hopefully not.
> * Right ramp entry micro is totally dead. Part has been requested, but it
> might be a while before we get it.
> * Backbox lock has been drilled out. A replacement has been requested.

Reply all
Reply to author
0 new messages