Try using Testors Model Masters Black Primer spray. Also, make sure to spray
away from your figs for a moment, to clear any clogs in the can. Also, hold the
can back about a foot or so from your figs, so you are "lightly dusting" the
figs with each pass.
-Erik
--
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If you turn the can upside down and press the button after you get done spraying the
models and shake the can before you spray you have no clogs in the can..
Sounds like "orange peel". Make sure the figure is clean of oils or mold
release before painting. You can also get this when the paint is applied
slightly too heavy, apply several light coats instead of one or two heavier
ones.
Death before dishonor,
Nothing before coffee
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Teemu Arho wrote in message <83rb64$gnp$1...@tron.sci.fi>...
Did the Navy SEALs tell your dad that??
Jimi
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Please try to contain your flame wars within their own threads, there is no
need to inject such comments into a useful thread.
This is a newsgroup and thus an area for anyone to say anything they want -
if you dont like what you see then kill file it.
> Did the Navy SEALs tell your dad that??
> Jimi
No. Unlike you, we actually participate in such activities as painting our
armies, something I've heard you're not so fond of doing.
Thomas Setzer <rag...@mediaone.net> wrote in article
<3861D7B3...@mediaone.net>...
> Jimi wrote:
>
> > Did the Navy SEALs tell your dad that??
> > Jimi
>
> No. Unlike you, we actually participate in such activities as
painting our
> armies, something I've heard you're not so fond of doing.
That's because Jimi has colleagues in the SAS, FBI, KGB and NASA who
will do anything for him, even paint his miniatures.
--
Big Al
The Doctor is in.
One of the Twin Pasty-Fleshed Daemons of Pestilence
and Nauseous Abomination
"And Bristol!"
Kurt does get a token mention in this .sig file
In article <83rb64$gnp$1...@tron.sci.fi>, ta...@nettilinja.fi says...
> I'm having problems with my Chaos Black undercoat spray. Especially when
> used on plastic models. The final surface, when sprayed on, ain't really too
> smooth. Actually it's extremely rough (like wrinkled) and extremely
> unsmooth. What causes this? It would be really nice to know, 'cause I'm
> getting really pissed off, after scraping the shitty undercoat from a full
> 10-man Tactical Squad. Thanks.
>
>
>
In article <19991222153732...@ng-cq1.aol.com>,
rlob...@aol.com says...
>
> Sounds like "orange peel". Make sure the figure is clean of oils or mold
> release before painting. You can also get this when the paint is applied
> slightly too heavy, apply several light coats instead of one or two heavier
> ones.
Howdy!
Well, having experienced the dread "orange peel" (that's what I call
it too) I can agree with the sediment that it's a major pain in the butt.
Primering & Base Coating tips
Well, I'm doing a load of minis at the moment and I've been doing
some research on primering and putting on a base coat on your minis for
detail painting over later. I was having a problem with 4 or 5 different
spray primers causing "orange peel" on my minis. Here's what I've found.
1st tip: As many have said, save your old plastic sprues, they are
great for testing out various spray paints on to see if they will react
with the plastic. That being said, ALWAYS try out your paint or primer
on a piece of sprue first, instead of just plastering it all over your
expensive minis. The ideal thing would be to spray some of your primer
on some of the sprue that you cut your minis off of the minis that you're
about to paint. Many non-hobby spray paints are fine for use on plastic
minis. A word of warning thought - some spray paints could have solvents
to keep the spray paint in useable form that will react with the plastic
of your miniatures. Don't find out the hard way.
2nd tip: Always wash your minis (plastic or metal) before painting
or primering. Miniatures companies use various "mold release" materials
(basically a lubricant or thin oily film) on the inside of the mold to
protect their expensive molds and to release the figure from the mold
without breaking the mini. Unfortunately this film of mold release
material can remain on the mini for ages and cause your paint to have
problems. Minor problems just result in your paint flaking or chipping
off easily (mainly on metal minis). The worst and often most common
problem (with the plastics) is that the mold release compound reacts with
the paint or primer and causes the top layer of plastic itself to form
wrinkles or pours (referred to as orange peel) that basically ruin a
plastic mini. You can use just about any dish soap with a degreaser (I
use Dawn dish washing soap) to remove the oils from both the mold release
and any oils from your fingers that may have accumulated on the mini.
Being rather paranoid about ruining my costly minis I do a double wash
(wear rubber gloves). I use Clorox cleaner (bleach based cleaner)
diluted with warm water which I dunk the minis in and then scrub them
with an old tooth brush, I then dunk them in water with dish soap and
scrub them with the tooth brush again and then rinse them thoroughly.
Let them air dry completely or use a hair drier on them.
3rd tip: Paint tends to have much better adhesion on warm plastic.
You can use a hair drier to carefully heat up your plastics a bit before
primering them and it tends to help the paint stick better and smoothly.
(That's warm, not hot, not melting or flaming plastic - so don't get nuts
with the heat here, ok?) This is particularly important when painting in
cooler or cold temperatures. I like to do my primering and spraying in
the garage (much easier on the lungs and the interior of the house.)
Unfortunately I don't have a heated garage. So in the cold months I use
a hair drier to heat the plastics right before I step into the garage and
spray them. Works great for me so far. It's also important to keep your
spray paint warm - don't leave it out where it can freeze at any point -
this can do very bad things to spray paint. I also like to put my paint
cans in a warm (not scalding) water bath to help them stay warm and
working properly while I'm painting with them in the colder weather.
Hope this is helpful to you and that you can avoid more problems.
Later,
Myrmidon
Woah
I never knew this is what I'd be getting into when I started playing...
Sorry a request for courtesy was so poorly received. I personally don't give a
damn what you say about who and what they say in return, I was simply asking to
keep the war out of a thread that has nothing to do with your petty little
battle. BTW, congratulations, I will take your advise, you are now the second
person I have kill-filed.
Plonk.
Hooray!!
Nope, Richard's correct. T'was bad form on your part.
Paul
*-*-*-*-*
"Rudeness is the only unforgivable sin." - Robert A. Heinlein
Actually, yes. Anyone can say anything in an unmoderated group.
> T'was bad form on your part.
Bad form?? Sorry, Old Boy, I'll do the decent thing and go shoot myself
incase I offend thee anymore - afterall, the boys at the Club wouldnt want
me to sully their good name!!
Unnecessary, your much too amusing to have around. (good play into the
tone by the way)
Spilling personal vendettas out through every thread that appears with a
post from your nemesis isn't proper. Doesn't matter that free speech is
your right, it's pointlessly rude to the rest of us to do so.
Paul
Happy Saturnalia!
> Jimi wrote:
>
> > Did the Navy SEALs tell your dad that??
> > Jimi
>
> No. Unlike you, we actually participate in such activities as painting our
> armies, something I've heard you're not so fond of doing.
> -Erik
>
Yeah Ghetto Marines sure do look good.. Pick out 3 different colors and spray
across your mini's once with each color..