[Paint] Brush brands similar to GW?
Ryan Elkins
make to the GW kind? Im looking to get something of a bit higher quality
than GW, but Im not ready for the price of the W&N Series 7 miniature
brushes right now. Sizes and brandnames will be helpful. And can anyone
reccomend a reputable website with good quality and selection of brushes to
order from?
thanks for your help
drgrbek
MJB
"Ryan Elkins" <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
news:dg7m65$lar$1...@gnus01.u.washington.edu...
Sure -
I've been using Lowell-Cornell 700 series paintbrushes for many years now
and I paint quite literally thousands of figures each year with 'em.
They're readily available at arts & crafts stores - I buy mine at Michael's
arts & crafts.
--
MJB
Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
http://web.newsguy.com/Mrtinsworkshop/
gair
MJB wrote:
> "Ryan Elkins" <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
> news:dg7m65$lar$1...@gnus01.u.washington.edu...
>> Anyone know of a brand of brushes available in the US that are
>> similar in make to the GW kind?
> I've been using Lowell-Cornell 700 series paintbrushes for many years
> now and I paint quite literally thousands of figures each year with
> 'em. They're readily available at arts & crafts stores - I buy mine
> at Michael's arts & crafts.
I'll endorse Lowell-Cornell 700 series, as well, but my brush of choice is
the American Painter 4000 series. I've used GW brushes a couple of times
and haven't been impressed, but the American Painter works very well for me.
Michaels is a great resource as that's where I purchase mine, as well.
--gair
John Hwang
> Im looking to get something of a bit higher quality
> than GW, but Im not ready for the price of the W&N Series 7 miniature
> brushes right now.
OK, tho I can't imagine why. Just take care of them and you'll be fine.
> Sizes and brandnames will be helpful. And can anyone reccomend
> a reputable website with good quality and selection of brushes to
> order from?
Vallejo brushes from Neal at the WarStore. I'd get a 3/0, 0, and 4 to
start.
--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Ryan Elkins
"John Hwang" <JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
news:W5NVe.4547$R9.670@trnddc02...
> Ryan Elkins wrote:
>> Im looking to get something of a bit higher quality than GW, but Im not
>> ready for the price of the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes right now.
>
> OK, tho I can't imagine why. Just take care of them and you'll be fine.
One word: Price. My plan is to save a bit, and buy some that are detail and
fine detail sized, since those are the brushes that tend to go fuzzy on me
the quickest. But Im looking for a full set to replace my scrubby GeeDub
brushes, and I can afford a set of the series 7 mini.
>
>> Sizes and brandnames will be helpful. And can anyone reccomend a
>> reputable website with good quality and selection of brushes to order
>> from?
>
> Vallejo brushes from Neal at the WarStore. I'd get a 3/0, 0, and 4 to
> start.
Cool. Thanks to all of you for the for the tips.
drgrbek
Myrmidon
rel...@u.washington.edu Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>
> "John Hwang" <JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
> news:W5NVe.4547$R9.670@trnddc02...
> > Ryan Elkins wrote:
> >> Im looking to get something of a bit higher quality than GW, but Im not
> >> ready for the price of the W&N Series 7 miniature brushes right now.
> >
> > OK, tho I can't imagine why. Just take care of them and you'll be fine.
>
> One word: Price. My plan is to save a bit, and buy some that are detail and
> fine detail sized, since those are the brushes that tend to go fuzzy on me
> the quickest. But Im looking for a full set to replace my scrubby GeeDub
> brushes, and I can afford a set of the series 7 mini.
> >
> >> Sizes and brandnames will be helpful. And can anyone reccomend a
> >> reputable website with good quality and selection of brushes to order
> >> from?
> >
> > Vallejo brushes from Neal at the WarStore. I'd get a 3/0, 0, and 4 to
> > start.
>
> Cool. Thanks to all of you for the for the tips.
What John is trying to tell you is that it's often more economical
to buy quality brushes *and take care of them* than it is to buy lots of
inexpensive brushes that don't last long. You tend to get better
results in terms of paint application and performance from better
brushes, and with good painting & cleaning habits, they'll last a long
time. The cheaper brushes tend to 'fuzz out' faster as they aren't as
well made at the ferrule (metal collar where the bristles are joined to
the handle) and the paint gets in and starts to build up forcing the
bristles appart and ruining the brush. Rinsing your brush often while
working and good brush soap will also help reduce this problem greatly.
Check out the 'brush care' article on rgmw.org (link below in my sig
file).
--
[Paint] [Rant] Do NOT lick your paint brush...
I've been licking my paintbrushes for years, and it hasn't
jklse jhlka hnbjktr jskl jnkl;sg.
- Brad Hann
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
Ryan Elkins
> What John is trying to tell you is that it's often more economical
> to buy quality brushes *and take care of them* than it is to buy lots of
> inexpensive brushes that don't last long. You tend to get better
> results in terms of paint application and performance from better
> brushes, and with good painting & cleaning habits, they'll last a long
> time. The cheaper brushes tend to 'fuzz out' faster as they aren't as
> well made at the ferrule (metal collar where the bristles are joined to
> the handle) and the paint gets in and starts to build up forcing the
> bristles appart and ruining the brush. Rinsing your brush often while
> working and good brush soap will also help reduce this problem greatly.
> Check out the 'brush care' article on rgmw.org (link below in my sig
> file).
Yes, I learned the HARD way when I was starting out about what not to do to
your brushes.
Like when I thought it was a good idea to clean them in nice, warm
water......Bristle water!
Im surprised how long my original Standard size GW brush has lasted. I've
treat it like crap, yet it still has a nice, fine point. Im cursed with the
detail brushes, though.
As I said, I am going to get the Series 7 mini brushes one at a time. My
"allowance" is not very big
(Yes, I am married. How'd you guess?)
I have a Michaels up the street from me, so I'll pick up a brush or two of
the types mentioned, but I cant find any place local (Seattle, WA, USA)
that sells the S7mini brushes. Anyone know of a online shop that sells them?
I couldnt find one myself.
thx
drgrbek
MJB
> I have a Michaels up the street from me, so I'll pick up a brush or two of
> the types mentioned, but I cant find any place local (Seattle, WA, USA)
> that sells the S7mini brushes. Anyone know of a online shop that sells
them?
> I couldnt find one myself.
>
>
difference. And finallyI settled on the Lowell-Cornell 700 series as a
nice compromise between availabilty (ie, any Michael's arts & craft store)
and price (3.00 - 4.00$ US not including the very available Michael's 40%
off coupon of which I always have at least one in my wallet at all times).
Michael's also sells craft paints - 2 oz bottle of Delta Ceramcoat for 88
cents at my local Michaels here in Great Falls, MT.
I recently lived in Portland, OR and you might be able to find the brushes
at either American Eagles store or at Fantastic Hobbies up in Lynwood. Call
around, you might get lucky. But I'd certainly try the series 700 brushes
first - you might be suprised at how well they compare to the more expensive
brushes. Most all the figures on my website were painted using the 700
series brushes and Ceramcoat paint, so you can do good work with modestly
priced equipment.
Ryan Elkins
"MJB" <mrt...@OLDSguy.com> wrote in message
news:dg9ih...@news2.newsguy.com...
Thanks for the info, I'll go check out the Lynnwood location. Also, I think
the banners you've painted for your SMs are awesome! Do you have a tutorial
on how you paint them? I really want to do some unique ones for my 5th Co.
Ultramarines.
MJB
> Thanks for the info, I'll go check out the Lynnwood location. Also, I
think
> the banners you've painted for your SMs are awesome! Do you have a
tutorial
> on how you paint them? I really want to do some unique ones for my 5th Co.
> Ultramarines.
I've been in the Lynwood stores a couple of times and never got away without
dropping a couple of hundred bucks each time - plus no sale tax to Oregon
residents!
Glad you like the banners - and the person who owns the Black Templar or
Blood Angel armies like their banners too. Far as how I paint banners, I do
lay-out the basic size and shape with a T-square to get the edges precise.
And I always make certain I know exactly where the middle point of the
banner is so whatever the central iconography I'm going to use is properly
placed. But other than that, it's pretty much all free-hand brushwork.
Good luck trying-out your new brushes.
Ryan Elkins
>
> Glad you like the banners - and the person who owns the Black Templar or
> Blood Angel armies like their banners too. Far as how I paint banners, I
> do
> lay-out the basic size and shape with a T-square to get the edges precise.
> And I always make certain I know exactly where the middle point of the
> banner is so whatever the central iconography I'm going to use is
> properly
> placed. But other than that, it's pretty much all free-hand brushwork.
>
> Good luck trying-out your new brushes.
>
Plasticard? (Which I cant seem to find anywhere.)
Thx
drgrbk
PS to all: Ive had real good results using those plastic cards from credit
card offers as extra armor for my armored vehicles. I just give both sides a
medium sanding w/ fine grit paper, glue to the model and prime and paint!
Myrmidon
> Forgot to ask, what do you make them out of? Is it paper of some kind?
> Plasticard? (Which I cant seem to find anywhere.)
> Thx
>
> drgrbk
You could order their 12 x 7 .30 (.08mm) sheets. You can cut these and
then easily heat / bend them to create fluttering banners. You can draw
your basic design on them with fine felt-tip markers and then paint them
with acrylics after you've bent them to the desired shape.
http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/Action.lasso?-database=PI.PRODUCTS.fp5&-
Layout=Complete&-Response=OnlineProductDetail.html&-op=eq&CCode=CAGR-103
&-Search
>
> PS to all: Ive had real good results using those plastic cards from credit
> card offers as extra armor for my armored vehicles. I just give both sides a
> medium sanding w/ fine grit paper, glue to the model and prime and paint!
Hmmm, never thought of that - that's a cool idea for using all the
junk they mail to you.
Myr
--
"I'm already impoverished from buying wargames minis,
and I'm too knackered for riotous living..."
-- Moramarth
MJB
"Myrmidon" <Im...@home.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1d924be0a...@news-server.woh.rr.com...
> In article <dg9rlg$afd$1...@gnus01.u.washington.edu>, Ryan Elkins,
> rel...@u.washington.edu Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> Snip!
> > Forgot to ask, what do you make them out of? Is it paper of some kind?
> > Plasticard? (Which I cant seem to find anywhere.)
> > Thx
> >
> > drgrbk
>
> Try http://www.plastruct.com/
>
> You could order their 12 x 7 .30 (.08mm) sheets. You can cut these and
> then easily heat / bend them to create fluttering banners. You can draw
> your basic design on them with fine felt-tip markers and then paint them
> with acrylics after you've bent them to the desired shape.
>
> http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/Action.lasso?-database=PI.PRODUCTS.fp5&-
> Layout=Complete&-Response=OnlineProductDetail.html&-op=eq&CCode=CAGR-103
> &-Search
I just use ordinary paper - whatever I have in my printer is usually what's
most handy. I've tried the plastic sheets and don't like them as much as
paper stiffened with glue and paint. But if the plastic stuff works, well,
that's another option. Although, if memory serves, the original poster was
price sensative...
Ryan Elkins
Snip
> I just use ordinary paper - whatever I have in my printer is usually
> what's
> most handy. I've tried the plastic sheets and don't like them as much as
> paper stiffened with glue and paint. But if the plastic stuff works,
> well,
> that's another option. Although, if memory serves, the original poster
> was
> price sensative...
>
> --
> MJB
>
> Mr. Tin's Miniature Painting Workshop:
> http://web.newsguy.com/Mrtinsworkshop/
So, just brush a little watered down white glue on it? Cool.
And a thought occured to me while reading the responses to my initial post.
Does anyone know if there is a website out there that tells you how to use
or combine everyday household items into your modelling or painting? Like
what I posted, using the credit card offers for armor on vehicles.
I think I may start experimenting, and reporting back to the group on my
findings. You all have given me lots, and I'd like to reciprocate.
Thx
drgrbek
Robert Singers
> What John is trying to tell you is that it's often more economical
> to buy quality brushes *and take care of them* than it is to buy lots of
> inexpensive brushes that don't last long.
In terms of ROI. I like lots of cheap brushes that I can really abuse
during the base coating and for things like wet brushing, and then I use
good quality brushes for detail work.
Brushes also have to feel good on your tongue when you shape them ;-)
--
Rob Singers
RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
Foemina Erit Ruina Tua
Robert Singers
> And a thought occured to me while reading the responses to my initial
> post. Does anyone know if there is a website out there that tells you
> how to use or combine everyday household items into your modelling or
> painting? Like what I posted, using the credit card offers for armor
> on vehicles. I think I may start experimenting, and reporting back to
> the group on my findings. You all have given me lots, and I'd like to
> reciprocate.
If you write the article I'll stick it on rgmw.org. Actaully if I check
the list it's probably one of the ones Myr promised to write.
Jim M
as rec.games.miniatures.warhammer and said...
Don't rule out the Wally World craft section for brushes either, with a bit
of care and patience you can pick out some decent brushes there also...
--
Jim M
"Look alive. Here comes a buzzard." -- Walt Kelly (Pogo)
"The only game I like to play is Old Maid - provided she's not too old." --
Groucho Marx
Myrmidon
rsin...@finger.hotmail.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> Between saving the world and having a spot of tea Myrmidon said
>
> > What John is trying to tell you is that it's often more economical
> > to buy quality brushes *and take care of them* than it is to buy lots of
> > inexpensive brushes that don't last long.
>
> In terms of ROI. I like lots of cheap brushes that I can really abuse
> during the base coating and for things like wet brushing, and then I use
> good quality brushes for detail work.
Yeah, I'd have to admit to the same, though I do try and preserve
even the cheapo brushes for as long as possible. The base coating
process does indeed tend to beat them up if you're doing large numbers
of minis at once and not obsessive about constantly cleaning the brush
while you're working.
>
> Brushes also have to feel good on your tongue when you shape them ;-)
Urk! All those years of schooling (and shock therapy) right down
the drain. <Holds head in hands- Sigh...>
Myrmidon :)
--
I'm sorry. I admit, I've been shaping my brush with my lips
again. My thane is starting to look real good tho'. Damnit Myr
I'm an Evil Genius not a safety freak.
- Jesus Singers, the Sneaky Yoda
Myrmidon
rsin...@finger.hotmail.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> Between saving the world and having a spot of tea Ryan Elkins said
>
> > And a thought occured to me while reading the responses to my initial
> > post. Does anyone know if there is a website out there that tells you
> > how to use or combine everyday household items into your modelling or
> > painting? Like what I posted, using the credit card offers for armor
> > on vehicles. I think I may start experimenting, and reporting back to
> > the group on my findings. You all have given me lots, and I'd like to
> > reciprocate.
>
> If you write the article I'll stick it on rgmw.org. Actaully if I check
> the list it's probably one of the ones Myr promised to write.
Damnit! I keep rooting for my employers to go belly up (no -
really) so I can have more time off, but they keep (annoyingly) trudging
on and agonizingly drawing out the inevitable end. They're laying off
another 240 of my co-workers on Oct 20th/21st, but of course I'm still
stuck there since I've been there for 12 years. Ah well. And as for
the articles - I set myself a goal of having all my remaining Nids stuff
and all the stuff for my friend's Nid army prepped and primered before
the cold weather sets in here and I can't do any more out-door spraying.
(If I spray paint in the basement, I gaurante my wife will euthanize me
in my sleep.) So that's where all my 'free time' has gone to for the
last month or so. On the other hand, I have accomplished quite a bit ->
see my [Paint] 40K progress thread... I've got to be out of town this
weekend for a Martial Arts seminar, but I'll take a shot at getting at
least one of the two magnetic conversion articles done up and sent to
you next week.
Myr :)
hea...@aracnet.com
> PS to all: Ive had real good results using those plastic cards from credit
> card offers as extra armor for my armored vehicles. I just give both sides
> a medium sanding w/ fine grit paper, glue to the model and prime and
> paint!
Now that's a good idea! I'm going to have to start saving them now :^)
Now what to do with all those AOL tins...
Zane
Jim M
rec.games.miniatures.warhammer and said...
> Ryan Elkins <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote:
They make pretty decent mixing plates for paint...
Myrmidon
hnjc...@gmail.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> It was a cold day in September when entered the world pub known as
> rec.games.miniatures.warhammer and said...
>
> > Ryan Elkins <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote:
> > > PS to all: Ive had real good results using those plastic cards from credit
> > > card offers as extra armor for my armored vehicles. I just give both sides
> > > a medium sanding w/ fine grit paper, glue to the model and prime and
> > > paint!
> >
> > Now that's a good idea! I'm going to have to start saving them now :^)
> >
> > Now what to do with all those AOL tins...
> >
>
> They make pretty decent mixing plates for paint...
They're also great for basing small pieces of terrain. I use mine
for Pillars with rubble strewn about the bottom, patches of jungle
foliage (just glue a foam mound or place some clay over the hole in the
middle), rubble piles, small destroyed vehicle bases, mini-dioramas,
weapons turrets, etc.
Myr
--
"I'm already impoverished from buying wargames minis,
and I'm too knackered for riotous living..."
-- Moramarth
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
Jim M
rec.games.miniatures.warhammer and said...
> In article <MPG.1da259ac8...@news.west.earthlink.net>, Jim M,
> hnjc...@gmail.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> > It was a cold day in September when entered the world pub known as
> > rec.games.miniatures.warhammer and said...
> >
> > > Ryan Elkins <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote:
> > > > PS to all: Ive had real good results using those plastic cards from credit
> > > > card offers as extra armor for my armored vehicles. I just give both sides
> > > > a medium sanding w/ fine grit paper, glue to the model and prime and
> > > > paint!
> > >
> > > Now that's a good idea! I'm going to have to start saving them now :^)
> > >
> > > Now what to do with all those AOL tins...
> > >
> >
> > They make pretty decent mixing plates for paint...
>
> They're also great for basing small pieces of terrain. I use mine
> for Pillars with rubble strewn about the bottom, patches of jungle
> foliage (just glue a foam mound or place some clay over the hole in the
> middle), rubble piles, small destroyed vehicle bases, mini-dioramas,
> weapons turrets, etc.
>
Well yeah, the CD's are okay for that or coasters, but the tins they used to
come in don't have holes in them...