Thinning Paint- How much water?
Steven G. Clinard
completing the 5 saurus warriors from the paint kit it seems that the best
paint/water ratio is about 3:1; too much water and it runs and is splotchy;
too little water and the brush clogs. Anyhow, getting the right
consistancy still seems a bit hit or miss. Because a little paint goes a
long way I find it hard not to accidentally add too much water and have to
add more paint just to rethicken. Any suggestions, hints, experiences,
etc.?
Also, any suggestions about cleaning brushes? The instructions merely
mention a "pot of water" to clean the brushes, but the paint sticks too
well and I find it hard to adequately clean the brush without jamming it
repeatedly against the side of the cup, which ruins the shape of the tip,
and it still does not remove the paint higher up on the bristles. I will
probably replace and upgrade the brushes once I get past the learning
phase, but I'd like to maximize their lifetime and quality. Help?
Ok, while I'm at it, what do you use for removing molding lines? I have
been using an X-acto knife to scrape the lines away. Is file better,
worse, same or just different? What about metal figures?
I'm basically a klutz, so fine detail painting is often a problem. How can
I "fix" the inevitable "sloppy" mistakes when the "real" color can't cover
the mistake? I was somewhat perturbed by the rather cavalier statement in
one of the books that stated (paraphrasing) that such mistakes were no big
deal since you can simply paint over them. I learned rather quickly on my
sauruses (sauri?) not to paint color over color unless you are explicitly
undercoating (such as black under metalic). I am have learned from the
skinks in the basic WHFB set that green and orange don't mix. What do I
do? Overpainting is a joke. With scale model enamels I can carefully
scrape away the offending paint with an X-acto, but this doesn't seem to
work well at fine details with this kind of paint. Would primer over the
error, followed by (careful!) repainting, work? Or is there a way to
cleanly remove paint in a small detail area? Help?
What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I found
that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?)) during
the course of painting the details. I touched these up as the last step
(also learning to not use paint mixtures for major model parts, such as
saurus-skin, that might need such retouching). Suggestions?
On a non-painting note, is it consider "kosher" to mix models from
different armies? In the long run I'm aiming for a dwarf army and an
empire army, but until I get there would a dwarf/empire army be acceptable
or offensive? Would those Brettonian archers and knights in the basic set
"pass" as Empire if I painted them as such or is this a Warhammer faux
paus? I didn't see anything about this in the rulebooks, and the examples,
photos, etc. always depict single race armies, but perhaps this is a GW
ploy to get you to buy more models.
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time from your Iraqi bombing discussion to
read my incoherent newbie painting-angst whining.
SGC
Steven G. Clinard
More more thing. Why are all the Warhammer races either recognizably
"good" or "bad"? Good guys and bad guys. Why aren't there any morally
ambiguous races (or are there?) That's what I'd play. Also, are they
consciously or unconsciously ripping off Tolkien (not necessarily a bad
thing)?
SGC
Ralf Engels
>
> I'm new at this am was wondering about the ideal way to thin paint. After
> completing the 5 saurus warriors from the paint kit it seems that the best
> paint/water ratio is about 3:1; too much water and it runs and is splotchy;
> too little water and the brush clogs. Anyhow, getting the right
> consistancy still seems a bit hit or miss. Because a little paint goes a
> long way I find it hard not to accidentally add too much water and have to
> add more paint just to rethicken. Any suggestions, hints, experiences,
> etc.?
My way is a wet brush. Then the paint is not to thick.
If you want to make some shading you take a realy wet brush, if you
want to make high lights, take a realy dry brush (not a pun).
After that dip the brush into the paint.
After much trying I am now painting realy carfully with very thick paint
to
get clear colors.
If you want to try something first shade the model with black, highlight
it
with white and after that color it with thin paint.
>
> Also, any suggestions about cleaning brushes? The instructions merely
> mention a "pot of water" to clean the brushes, but the paint sticks too
> well and I find it hard to adequately clean the brush without jamming it
> repeatedly against the side of the cup, which ruins the shape of the tip,
> and it still does not remove the paint higher up on the bristles. I will
> probably replace and upgrade the brushes once I get past the learning
> phase, but I'd like to maximize their lifetime and quality. Help?
>
First only the tip of a brush should get the paint.
Then you must clean the brush repeatingly while painting with water and
a piece of cloth. If the paint is dry or nearly dry there is no way to
save
your brush.
Oh, and only paint after the superglue is REALY dry. There is no faster
way to
ruin a brush than a drop of super glue.
Maybe you can get a brush cleaner with some alcolol. But don't use any
hard
solvents like terpentine or aceton. This will soften the glue of the
brush.
The hairs will drop out.
> Ok, while I'm at it, what do you use for removing molding lines? I have
> been using an X-acto knife to scrape the lines away. Is file better,
> worse, same or just different? What about metal figures?
>
A knife is ok for plastic figures, for the metal ones get a small file.
I normaly found that I missed some of the lines after priming the
models.
Wash the models before priming.
> I'm basically a klutz, so fine detail painting is often a problem. How can
> I "fix" the inevitable "sloppy" mistakes when the "real" color can't cover
> the mistake? I was somewhat perturbed by the rather cavalier statement in
> one of the books that stated (paraphrasing) that such mistakes were no big
> deal since you can simply paint over them. I learned rather quickly on my
> sauruses (sauri?) not to paint color over color unless you are explicitly
> undercoating (such as black under metalic). I am have learned from the
> skinks in the basic WHFB set that green and orange don't mix. What do I
> do? Overpainting is a joke. With scale model enamels I can carefully
> scrape away the offending paint with an X-acto, but this doesn't seem to
> work well at fine details with this kind of paint. Would primer over the
> error, followed by (careful!) repainting, work? Or is there a way to
> cleanly remove paint in a small detail area? Help?
No. You must plan how to paint a model.
Normaly I first paint the skin. You can shade and highlight.
Then comes the clothes. They are higher than the skin and normaly use
bright colors.
With the skink you have no problems. The loincloth don't need to be
highlighted
and the bows and other weapons get brown which you can paint over all
colors,
including black.
If you plan your painting steps right you do not have to paint a color
over an
other.
To correct the mistakes leave a wet clean brush lying beside you. You
can wash
away the color if you are quick.
>
> What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I found
> that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
> raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?)) during
> the course of painting the details. I touched these up as the last step
> (also learning to not use paint mixtures for major model parts, such as
> saurus-skin, that might need such retouching). Suggestions?
If you make those steps you will have no problems with wearing of paint.
clean the model, wash the model, prime the model, leave it to dry
paint the model and between the steps you must let the paint get try or
you can't
touch it. Only hold the model at the base or a weapon (which normaly is
painted
metallic and so no problem if the priming is rubbed of)
Last step you must give the model a coating with games workshop clear
I found out that the paint is very good and I know many people who saved
money in
this last step and had a army of glossy models.
>
> On a non-painting note, is it consider "kosher" to mix models from
> different armies? In the long run I'm aiming for a dwarf army and an
> empire army, but until I get there would a dwarf/empire army be acceptable
> or offensive? Would those Brettonian archers and knights in the basic set
> "pass" as Empire if I painted them as such or is this a Warhammer faux
> paus? I didn't see anything about this in the rulebooks, and the examples,
> photos, etc. always depict single race armies, but perhaps this is a GW
> ploy to get you to buy more models.
>
We try to use the models we have, but in the begining we used goblins
for
empire troops and pieces of paper for cannons.
After a game with a styrophor warwaggon my brother buyed the real one.
There is no sense in buying a large model for your army if you never
tried it
out.
> Anyhow, thanks for taking the time from your Iraqi bombing discussion to
> read my incoherent newbie painting-angst whining.
>
> SGC
Oh. ps.: the lizardmen are neighter good nor evil. They only play their
game
of continent shifting according to the plan of the old ones.
Ralf Engels
AngryBoy
> I'm new at this am was wondering about the ideal way to thin paint. After
> completing the 5 saurus warriors from the paint kit it seems that the best
> paint/water ratio is about 3:1; too much water and it runs and is splotchy;
> too little water and the brush clogs. Anyhow, getting the right
> consistancy still seems a bit hit or miss. Because a little paint goes a
> long way I find it hard not to accidentally add too much water and have to
> add more paint just to rethicken. Any suggestions, hints, experiences,
> etc.?
>
Thinning paint accurately is really a matter of experience. Here's one way that
might save you a little wasted time: after putting your paint on the pallette,
and the brush in the water, DON'T put the brush straight into the paint! Put it
near the paint and mix in a little of the water your brush collected. Add more
if required.
>
> Also, any suggestions about cleaning brushes? The instructions merely
> mention a "pot of water" to clean the brushes, but the paint sticks too
> well and I find it hard to adequately clean the brush without jamming it
> repeatedly against the side of the cup, which ruins the shape of the tip,
> and it still does not remove the paint higher up on the bristles. I will
> probably replace and upgrade the brushes once I get past the learning
> phase, but I'd like to maximize their lifetime and quality. Help?
>
Yeah, try to keep the paint smooth enough that it won't stick to the brush.
Periodically cleaning the brush while painting (whenever you feel it becoming
"sticky") and not getting paint where the metal meets the bristles (the
ferrule) really helps keep your brushes alive. And try not to drybrush with
your good brushes - they'll get wrecked (advice I have never listened to :)
>
> Ok, while I'm at it, what do you use for removing molding lines? I have
> been using an X-acto knife to scrape the lines away. Is file better,
> worse, same or just different? What about metal figures?
>
I use whichever is convenient. On some models you'll find it awkward to use one
method, so switch. The best files incidentally, are the long slim "needle
files"
>
> I'm basically a klutz, so fine detail painting is often a problem. How can
> I "fix" the inevitable "sloppy" mistakes when the "real" color can't cover
> the mistake? I was somewhat perturbed by the rather cavalier statement in
> one of the books that stated (paraphrasing) that such mistakes were no big
> deal since you can simply paint over them. I learned rather quickly on my
> sauruses (sauri?) not to paint color over color unless you are explicitly
> undercoating (such as black under metalic). I am have learned from the
> skinks in the basic WHFB set that green and orange don't mix. What do I
> do? Overpainting is a joke. With scale model enamels I can carefully
> scrape away the offending paint with an X-acto, but this doesn't seem to
> work well at fine details with this kind of paint. Would primer over the
> error, followed by (careful!) repainting, work? Or is there a way to
> cleanly remove paint in a small detail area? Help?
>
You'll get less sloppy with practice. There are certain colors where you have
to re-undercoat the messed up section. Try to make your undercoat blend into
the surrounding color before having to touch up. Paint darks BEFORE lights,
then you can fix the undercoat for the light parts, paint 'em, and patch up the
dark colors if you slop on them - dark paint covers light.
>
> What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I found
> that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
> raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?)) during
> the course of painting the details. I touched these up as the last step
> (also learning to not use paint mixtures for major model parts, such as
> saurus-skin, that might need such retouching). Suggestions?
>
Some people stick their models on top of corks or plastic film tubs. That way
they don't have to touch them while painting. Others leave 'em on the table top
and paint 'em there. I tend to do nothing to protect my minis (hehe) but I do
leave those exposed areas that easily lose paint till last (assuming I can).
You can always spot them because the undercoat wears off before you have a
chance to paint it. I do use the foam from inside blisters to rest my models on
if I have to get at some weird area.
AngryBoy
Kirk Macdonald
I thought that they were ALL bad guys?
--
Kirk "Gimme Danger!" Macdonald
Reply to : hag...@NOCHEESEgte.net - Remove NOCHEESE from my address to
reply
These are my own opinions and do not reflect those of The Boeing Co.
Steve Shotwell
AngryBoy <spa...@po-boxes.mcgill.ca> wrote in article
<367A60B8...@po-boxes.mcgill.ca>...
> Thinning paint accurately is really a matter of experience. Here's one
way that
> might save you a little wasted time: I use Methanol th thin paint it
causes the paint to dry at a even rate and does not blot or run.
>
> >
> > Also, any suggestions about cleaning brushes? take about $10.00 US and
goto
art supply store and buy bursh cleaner, it will clean and conditions the
hair of the brush.
Blank Dave
>completing the 5 saurus warriors from the paint kit it seems that the best
>paint/water ratio is about 3:1; too much water and it runs and is splotchy;
>too little water and the brush clogs. Anyhow, getting the right
>consistancy still seems a bit hit or miss. Because a little paint goes a
>long way I find it hard not to accidentally add too much water and have to
>add more paint just to rethicken. Any suggestions, hints, experiences,
>etc.?
You might want to clean your brush a little more often. I find the Citadel
paints have a nice consistance, that only require a few drops(say about 5)
of water, and I use an airbrush (so you need thin paint). But when I find
the paint is getting lumpy on the brush that's what I do, is just clean it
and continue.
>Also, any suggestions about cleaning brushes? The instructions merely
>mention a "pot of water" to clean the brushes, but the paint sticks too
>well and I find it hard to adequately clean the brush without jamming it
>repeatedly against the side of the cup, which ruins the shape of the tip,
>and it still does not remove the paint higher up on the bristles. I will
>probably replace and upgrade the brushes once I get past the learning
>phase, but I'd like to maximize their lifetime and quality. Help?
I've found stuff, I believe because I've lost the lid, call Master's Brush
Cleaner and Preserver. You can find it in art or craft stores around the
paints. I comes in a little container similar to shoe polish, and when you
look at it, it's a little white cake. You dip you brush in your water, and
then work your brush around on this stuff, to get a bit of a lather, and
then dip in the water again and wipe clean. This also works on ENAMALS too
(even just using water)! It even helps condition your brush, so it keeps
it's point longer and avoid the "frizzies." On top of that, it can and will
loosen dried paint in your brushes. But if the paint gets into the floonal
(or what ever the metal part of the brush, that holds the bristles together
is called) you're screwed.
>Ok, while I'm at it, what do you use for removing molding lines? I have
>been using an X-acto knife to scrape the lines away. Is file better,
>worse, same or just different? What about metal figures?
Files I'ld say are better, but you'll find there are spots that are hard to
reach with them, and becareful around detail with them too.
>I'm basically a klutz, so fine detail painting is often a problem. How can
>I "fix" the inevitable "sloppy" mistakes when the "real" color can't cover
>the mistake?
A coat of base coat, and continue. If the base coat doesn't cover, use your
primer colour and then go from there.
>What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I found
>that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
>raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?)) during
>the course of painting the details. I touched these up as the last step
>(also learning to not use paint mixtures for major model parts, such as
>saurus-skin, that might need such retouching). Suggestions?
Most people use a make ship base, GW used to use corks. I use to use
alligator clips, but now I just glue them to the base and handle it. If the
paint is coming off as you describe it, I must ask "did you use primer?"
Primer will give the paint some thing to "hold" on to.
Blank Dave
"At least when we have a World Series we invite the other countries"
John Cleese
Blank Dave
>If you want to make some shading you take a realy wet brush, if you
>want to make high lights, take a realy dry brush (not a pun).
>After that dip the brush into the paint.
So I'm not the only one who finds that? I have troubles with drybrushing
with a "damp" brush. If I have to clean my drybrushing brush, I'll put it
up and get another dry one.
>First only the tip of a brush should get the paint.
Except for inks, damn that capillary action.
>If the paint is dry or nearly dry there is no way to
>save
>your brush.
See my above post (or would tha be below?) about Master's Brush Cleaner and
Preserver.
>Oh, and only paint after the superglue is REALY dry. There is no faster
>way to
>ruin a brush than a drop of super glue.
If you do you get what you deserve.
>Last step you must give the model a coating with games workshop clear
>I found out that the paint is very good and I know many people who saved
>money in
>this last step and had a army of glossy models.
Testors also makes a sealant. A friend uses poly urithane (sp??), and then
sprays on a light dull coat. The poly urithane is glossy, but will protect
you figures forever, because it makes a thin coat of plastic over the paint
job (but some brands may yellow). For those funky magic or unholy weapons,
get some glow-in-the-dark/safety paint, and spray it on them.
RLobinske
>completing the 5 saurus warriors from the paint kit it seems that the best
>paint/water ratio is about 3:1; too much water and it runs and is splotchy;
>too little water and the brush clogs. Anyhow, getting the right
>consistancy still seems a bit hit or miss. Because a little paint goes a
>long way I find it hard not to accidentally add too much water and have to
>add more paint just to rethicken. Any suggestions, hints, experiences,
>etc.?
Practice, there really are no hard and fast rules for this, thin the paint so
that it flows the way you want it to, the amount required will vary with
different manufacturers or even with how old the paint is. I generally use
Gunze Sanyo or Tamiya paints, these work very well straight from the bottle
with little need for thinning (yes, I am a barbarian and dip my brush into the
bottle). For mixing paints on a pallet, again, nothing beats experience.
>Also, any suggestions about cleaning brushes? The instructions merely
>mention a "pot of water" to clean the brushes, but the paint sticks too
>well and I find it hard to adequately clean the brush without jamming it
>repeatedly against the side of the cup, which ruins the shape of the tip,
>and it still does not remove the paint higher up on the bristles. I will
>probably replace and upgrade the brushes once I get past the learning
>phase, but I'd like to maximize their lifetime and quality. Help?
Swirl the brush in the water, then wipe onto a rag or paper towel, repeat until
no paint is transfered to the cloth, difficult paint that is not fully set can
be removed with isopropyl alcohol.
>Ok, while I'm at it, what do you use for removing molding lines? I have
>been using an X-acto knife to scrape the lines away. Is file better,
>worse, same or just different? What about metal figures?
That is really a preference difference, I generally use a fresh #11 blade to
clean most mold lines, pulling out files only for the most offensive ones.
>I'm basically a klutz, so fine detail painting is often a problem. How can
>I "fix" the inevitable "sloppy" mistakes when the "real" color can't cover
>the mistake? I was somewhat perturbed by the rather cavalier statement in
>one of the books that stated (paraphrasing) that such mistakes were no big
>deal since you can simply paint over them. I learned rather quickly on my
>sauruses (sauri?) not to paint color over color unless you are explicitly
>undercoating (such as black under metalic). I am have learned from the
>skinks in the basic WHFB set that green and orange don't mix. What do I
>do? Overpainting is a joke. With scale model enamels I can carefully
>scrape away the offending paint with an X-acto, but this doesn't seem to
>work well at fine details with this kind of paint. Would primer over the
>error, followed by (careful!) repainting, work? Or is there a way to
>cleanly remove paint in a small detail area? Help?
Generally, pale colors will poorly cover over dark ones, but it can be done
with care and more than one coat. In addition, make sure you use a good opaque
paint, that way painting over mistakes is much easier.
>What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I found
>that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
>raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?)) during
>the course of painting the details. I touched these up as the last step
>(also learning to not use paint mixtures for major model parts, such as
>saurus-skin, that might need such retouching). Suggestions?
I generally hold figures by placing my thumb under the base and controlling
with my forefinger on top of the head, so I leave that for last. Generally,
let paint fully set before handling, not just dry to touch. There are many
other ways to handle the model, from painting them just standing on the table
to temporarily glueing them to a painting base, try several and see which is
more comfortable for you. For more general information, try picking up Shep
Paine's "Building and Painting Scale Figures" from Kalmbach Publications. This
is an excellent reference on figure modeling from 25mm to 1/6 scale, written by
a long-term expert.
>On a non-painting note, is it consider "kosher" to mix models from
>different armies? In the long run I'm aiming for a dwarf army and an
>empire army, but until I get there would a dwarf/empire army be acceptable
>or offensive? Would those Brettonian archers and knights in the basic set
>"pass" as Empire if I painted them as such or is this a Warhammer faux
>paus? I didn't see anything about this in the rulebooks, and the examples,
>photos, etc. always depict single race armies, but perhaps this is a GW
>ploy to get you to buy more models.
>
Steven G. Clinard
Blank Dave <blank...@sympatico.ca> wrote in article
<mrxe2.128$am.7...@198.235.216.4>...
> >What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I
found
> >that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
> >raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?))
during
> >the course of painting the details.....
>
> If the
> paint is coming off as you describe it, I must ask "did you use primer?"
Yes I did.
SGC
Blackheart
<st...@stevengclinard.com> wrote:
>
>More more thing. Why are all the Warhammer races either recognizably
>"good" or "bad"? Good guys and bad guys. Why aren't there any morally
>ambiguous races (or are there?) That's what I'd play. Also, are they
>consciously or unconsciously ripping off Tolkien (not necessarily a bad
>thing)?
>
>SGC
that's 40k... the bad.. and the not quite as bad...
Dark Eldar, Chaos = Bad
Imperial, Eldar = Not quite as bad.
Orks = Comedy relief.
Blackheart
"I'm somewhere between 'bad' and 'totally evil'."
Blackheart
<st...@stevengclinard.com> wrote:
>On a non-painting note, is it consider "kosher" to mix models from
>different armies? In the long run I'm aiming for a dwarf army and an
>empire army, but until I get there would a dwarf/empire army be acceptable
>or offensive? Would those Brettonian archers and knights in the basic set
>"pass" as Empire if I painted them as such or is this a Warhammer faux
>paus? I didn't see anything about this in the rulebooks, and the examples,
>photos, etc. always depict single race armies, but perhaps this is a GW
>ploy to get you to buy more models.
it depends on who you're playing against... alot of the older players
gravitate towards WFB.. so you'll get alot of people that don't
care..... and quite a few who are very puritan and anal about it...
Screen your opponents. If someone gives you a hard time about it...
don't play them again.
Blackheart
"Hoping the Milwaukee crowd isn't too anal."
Blank Dave
>found
>> >that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
>> >raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?))
>during
>> >the course of painting the details.....
>>
>> If the
>> paint is coming off as you describe it, I must ask "did you use primer?"
>
>Yes I did.
I've never had that problem, so I felt a basic question had to be asked. And
some people don't prime their stuff, and then complain the paint doesn't
adhere. Yeah I know a basic step, that is often over looked.
Mark Schwartz
Blank Dave wrote:
> >> >What do you do to protect the model during the painting process? I
> >found
> >> >that the paint would wear off on little pinpoint "flecks" on prominate
> >> >raised areas (such as the back/head area of the sauruses (sauri?))
> >during
> >> >the course of painting the details.....
Did you wash the model, with soap and water, before priming it? Models
are covered in 'model releasing agent', an oil-like substance that allows the
models
to come free from their moulds without breaking or chipping. Think of it as a
very thin
layer of oil. This must be properly cleaned *before* the model is primed.
>
> >>
> >> If the
> >> paint is coming off as you describe it, I must ask "did you use primer?"
> >
> >Yes I did.
>
> I've never had that problem, so I felt a basic question had to be asked. And
> some people don't prime their stuff, and then complain the paint doesn't
> adhere. Yeah I know a basic step, that is often over looked.
>
> Blank Dave
>
> "At least when we have a World Series we invite the other countries"
>
> John Cleese
Sincerely,
Mark Schwartz
m...@in.net
Steven G. Clinard
Blank Dave <blank...@sympatico.ca> wrote in article
<qZRe2.237$R9....@news20.bellglobal.com>...
> >> If the
> >> paint is coming off as you describe it, I must ask "did you use
primer?"
> >
> >Yes I did.
>
> I've never had that problem, so I felt a basic question had to be asked.
And
> some people don't prime their stuff, and then complain the paint doesn't
> adhere. Yeah I know a basic step, that is often over looked.
No problem. I think the main problem was just over-handling. I'll have to
be more careful about only handling it by the base although I suspect this
will be more awkward.
Anyhow, despite my ignorance and errors, I was pleasantly surprised by the
results of my first five models, although I suspect that saurus warriors
hide some errors better than others. Now I just need to find a way to cut
down on the painting time or I'll never field an army this century.
SGC
Kuma
> > some people don't prime their stuff, and then complain the paint doesn't
> > adhere. Yeah I know a basic step, that is often over looked.
>
> No problem. I think the main problem was just over-handling. I'll have to
> be more careful about only handling it by the base although I suspect this
> will be more awkward.
To avoid the over handling of the fig get some blu-tac or other sticky
adhesive (Duck brand is good too-white in color and costs less) which
you can get ant any K-mart/target and I use old pill bottles I get from
older relatives. just blu-tac the mini (or part of, for the buger ones
like dreads or avatars/demons) to the top of the bottle and hold only
the bottle.
This works great, try it!
Don't forget, Prime those Minis for the best results. I have been
building models for 30 years and doing Minis for close to 15 and that is
the most important step with something you want the paint to last on.
hope I could be of help.
Kuma
Nathan Mitchell
The pill bottle idea sounds good, though. My wife and I have accumulate a lot of
those in short period of time. Seems like we are getting older.
rubi...@my-dejanews.com
> "good" or "bad"? Good guys and bad guys. Why aren't there any morally
> ambiguous races (or are there?) That's what I'd play. Also, are they
> consciously or unconsciously ripping off Tolkien (not necessarily a bad
> thing)?
>
> SGC
I thought the Lizardmen fulfilled that role. Servants of the Old Ones, left
behind after the Great Catastophe, not sure how to follow their masters'
instructions, allowing the younger races to develop and only fighting when
necessary.
Rubicon
I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol...
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