For those who haven't come across it yet.
--
Bart
You've had too much Warhammer / RGMW when:
24) your letters start with "Dear [X] sir, ..."
I like his chaos lord in termminator armor.
http://www.newwave.org/gw/eventscoverage/frenchgoldendemon/lgimages/jeremiebonamant17.jpg
Oooooh, my my my does this guy kick ass.
RTM
The termie took my breath away... I keep sacrificing chicken's but my
painting and modelling has come nowhere remotely near that.
BTW, any good tips on getting flame jobs (paint) that look anything like
that guy used on the landspeeder?
--
OrpheusITU
Evil #88
4 of 5
> BTW, any good tips on getting flame jobs (paint) that look anything like
> that guy used on the landspeeder?
Easy. As a matter of fact, I went to the previous pic (20)
and hand drew/traced his flame pattern onto a piece of paper
not 15 minutes ago.
Draw it into Adobe illustrator, cut it out of printed paper,
trace lightly onto your surface (curved, whatever) in pencil
or fine line ink pen, and then paint the flame side white,
yellow total. Paint the shading of the orange and red per
your own method you prefer. I put in the red with Delta
Ceramcoat Opaque Red, do a stripe in Tangerine, mix the
two with extender to cover between them and blend the two
colors (which take up 25% of the total area of the yellow)
and do a three layer orange ink with extender and water
wash to get to the yellow at the flame tip edges. The
final orange wash should be about 1 part orange, 8 parts
extender and 4 parts water, to get the fade right.
Fade from red to orange is tool easy. Fade from yellow
to orange is what takes space and patience and practice.
I'm doing a vindicator cannon tommorow when Qrab shows up
and we're finishing up for the LAGT.
RTM
I suppose I should be a little more specific. My entire experience with
acrylics has been with GW paints (Ack!) so I'm not familiar with what
extender is. Shading being the largest problem I have as I've been able (so
far) to coerce GW paints to do what I want otherwise.
Sent, that must be some firewall mine is set to maximum protection and I can
see pics.
rob
Extender also goes under various other names as well, but it's purpose it to
slow the drying process of paint, there by *extending* it's working life.
Many extenders also double as a thinner.
Notice how some paint will dry/become unworkable after say 5 mins? Use of
an extender will increase that amount of time.
--
Blank Dave
The above message is close captioned for the thinking impaired.
Keep the gene pool clean: Kill an idiot!
Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhoea ...Massive,
difficult to re-direct, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of
mind-boggling amounts of excrement, when you least expect it.
Gene Spafford
For once, the goggles doing nothing is a good thing....
++++++++++++
Jacob - Bearer of Black and White Hat #1 and *RGMW Merit Badge [Gold]*
"He's spending a year dead for tax reasons" - a tribute to Douglas Adams
http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/fluff40k - The only Yahoo! fluff club
"BIKKIT"
Ugh. A junior version from the Jose Orteza "Let's see how much crap we can
throw on a model and then paint it as garishly as possible" school of modeling
and painting...
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
You can use water (sparingly) for the extender and it'll work OK. The point is
to simply keep the paint from drying while you're trying to blend it.
>Extender also goes under various other names as well, but it's purpose
>it to slow the drying process of paint, there by *extending* it's working
>life. Many extenders also double as a thinner.
>
>Notice how some paint will dry/become unworkable after say 5 mins?
>Use of an extender will increase that amount of time.
Exactly.
The alternative is to work with many, many layers of very, very thin paint.
Just as doable, with equally good results. But much slower going.
> You can use water (sparingly) for the extender and it'll work OK. The point is
> to simply keep the paint from drying while you're trying to blend it.
There is a world of performance difference between
extender and water, however. It is worth going to
an art and craft store to pick up real extender.
Liquitex makes an excellent little squeeze bottle.
> >Extender also goes under various other names as well, but it's purpose
> >it to slow the drying process of paint, there by *extending* it's working
> >life. Many extenders also double as a thinner.
Yah.
> The alternative is to work with many, many layers of very, very thin paint.
> Just as doable, with equally good results. But much slower going.
Gaaack. That suxorz. It's bad enough doing the
extender trick 3 times to finally get a good
orange to yellow blend. To do it from scratch
would really blow.
RTM
So you use the extender (Liquitex) to blend between the 2 colors. Is this
done while the portions to be blended are still wet or recently dried?
Doing this trick either way with straight water never worked well for me.
--
OrpheusITU
Vombatus Ursinus Newbius
The paint needs to still be wet in order to blend it. I use Model Master's
Acryl thinner. Just add a drop or two to the paint on your pallet before
applying or sometimes directly into the paint pot as most GW paints are
generally too think to use straight anyways.
--
- smithdoerr
Download the free Warhammer 40k-Wound Calculator ver1.01 at:
http://www.geocities.com/smithdoerr/40k/WoundCalculator.html
Oh, yes. But if one doesn't do much of this blending work, a bit of water will
do in a pinch. Better than nothing, that's for sure. .
>> The alternative is to work with many, many layers of very, very
>> thin paint. Just as doable, with equally good results. But much
>> slower going.
>
>Gaaack. That suxorz. It's bad enough doing the
>extender trick 3 times to finally get a good
>orange to yellow blend. To do it from scratch
>would really blow.
Of course. But you'll get super-smooth and precise blends this way. It's just
that hardly anybody has the patience for this sort of thing. Particularly at
28mm. But at Inquisitor scale, it becomes more reasonable.
>Ugh. A junior version from the Jose Orteza "Let's see how much crap we can
>throw on a model and then paint it as garishly as possible" school of modeling
>and painting...
you don't like it?
--
All your squigs are belongz to me!
#1 Tag Fairy
Tim Albers
Nope. His painting technique is pretty good. But I definitely don't like the
conversion. It just doesn't mesh with my notions of how a Landspeeder is
engineered. To me, conversions should be sublte, nearly seamless, and hard for
the novice to detect that they've been converted. As opposed to things which
are obviously converted, and the conversion parts immediately identifiable.
And I don't much like its painting. But that's more an artifact of the
conversion than the technique or color scheme itself.
But that's just me. I don't *have* to like it, and as he wasn't making it for
me, it's not a problem.
<snip. see previous post for full text>
> <AOL>Me too!</AOL> I actually think that the painting schem detracts
further
> from it as it emphasises the converted parts so much. I would kill to be
> able to paint that well, but there comes a time on any model when you have
> to say "stop, enough!" and IMHO both tthe Landspeeder and especially the
> Chaos bod are well beyonf that.
Really? I rather liked the termie. I though that was a fantastic piece.
But I'll agree with you on the rest of your views.
--
OrpheusITU
Vombatus Urisnus Newbius
Newbies, read your FAQ!
http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
"The wonder is that the characteristic efficacy to touch and
inspire deep creative centers dwells in the smallest nursery
fairy tale - as the flavor of the ocean is contained in a droplet
or the whole mystery of life within the egg of a flea."
- Joseph Campbell, _The Hero With A Thousand Faces_
<snip. see previous post for full text>
> Wise of you, and congratulations on being elevated to newbie wombat, I'm
> still stuck on semi-newbie of unspecified species
> --
> Craig (Maybe armadillo?)
> RGMW [TAG] Monkey?
> Wearer of tainted Green Hat #296
Thanks~! <bow> I think you're best suited as a Monkey though. Unless you
have really bad Psoriasis...
>
> Newbies, read your FAQ!
> http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
You know I've never read the blasted thing....
--
OrpheusITU
Vombatus Ursinus Newbius <-- Excreter of fresh square dung
At the next newbie meeting don't stand to close to Justin and talk about
animals.
Aw, crap. Don't Wombats hide from danger by burying their head in a hole
and sticking their thick arse in the air?
--
OrpheusITU
Vombatus Ursinus Newbius
Amoungst other things. As it increases the drying time of the paint, it can
also reduce the amount of waste paint one generates if they use a palette.
Properly, you shouldn't be painting directly out of the bottle (as it may
contaminate the paint), as such you would use a palette. Of course what one
uses for a palette is up to them. You can easily buy little little plastic
or aluminum palettes, that look like little egg trays; or the more classical
art palette, *even* with the little thumb hole. But most people don't get
that fancy, instead they'll use a piece of glass or tile (both work wonders
I hear, and clean up really nicely), old broken plate, coffee jar lid.....
Ok, back on to topic. As I'm sure we all know, if you put a drop of water,
and a glass of water on the counter, the drop will dry up faster. The same
principle occurs with paint on a palette. Extender acts to counter it.
> Is this
> done while the portions to be blended are still wet or recently dried?
It really depends upon the 'paint'. Normally it should be done while the
paint is wet, as you're *blending* the two paints together. Where as if one
paint was dry, you'ld just end up painting over it.
> Doing this trick either way with straight water never worked well for me.
Blending is, like every other aspect of this hobby, an art, that takes quite
a bit of time to get down. Even I'm not good at blending (I'm worse at
washes though :( ) When you choose where you're going to blend, be very
sparse with your paints, otherwise you're prone to just mashing and
streaking them together instead.
Practice, practice, practice.
I'm sure John already knows this, so this is more for our less informed
members.
It's generally not a good idea to use water as a thinning agent, especially
if you're doing alot of thinning. Between the water itself, and the various
additives that are introduced to it for our benefit, water will have an
effect on the pigmentation. Or in other words, it'll start to change the
colour of your paint.
Where as extenders and thinners have been formulated for that type of paint,
it shouldn't have that effect.
Of course, this comes from the manufacturer of the paints....
Can I put in a bid to be newbie sloth then?
I liked the paint job and the landing gear on the landspeeder, but as a
display piece.
--
estarriol
remove clothes to email
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing there's
You don't understand the situation!
RT Maitreya wrote:
> http://www.newwave.org/gw/eventscoverage/frenchgoldendemon/lgimages/jeremiebonamant17.jpg
>
> Oooooh, my my my does this guy kick ass.
>
He is certainly poised to :)
> Properly, you shouldn't be painting directly out of the bottle (as it may
> contaminate the paint), as such you would use a palette.
Bollocks. Use only extender and water on your brush,
and clean your brushes very well between colors.
Always have two metal rinse containers, one for
rinsing normally, and one for final "I'm done with
metals for a while" rinsing before using the same
brush on non-metallics.
Keep your brush clean, work with one color at a time
when not blending, and you'll be just fine painting
off of lids. If you're blending, that's when you
obviously need a pallette. Use a kitchen tile.
I use a salsa lid. God knows I have enough sitting
around THIS house.
> Ok, back on to topic. As I'm sure we all know, if you put a drop of water,
> and a glass of water on the counter, the drop will dry up faster. The same
> principle occurs with paint on a palette. Extender acts to counter it.
Not the most scientific of explanations, but good enough.
> > Is this
> > done while the portions to be blended are still wet or recently dried?
I always "stripe" the paint as best I can, with three
colors minimum (for similar colors) to as much as five
colors with a full bright yellow to deep red blend.
These are completely dry stripes of paint, like a
banded flag, if you will. The blending will be done
over a small area, directly over the intersection lines
wherever they may be. This is the most effective way
to blend larger surfaces, as you are doing a very small
blend over a very controlled "intersection line" instead
of an "area". When you blend one band into the other,
you have the two band colors and a central region of
mixed paint+ink+extender+water somewhat mished together.
This interblob is where you draw your paintbrush into
in order to load up with the "squishy" middle-type color
between your two bands, and you draw from wherever you
need on your palette in order to clean up anything
that appears to be a line. The extender lets you
play with this a LONG time if you need to in order
to get it right, and improves the translucence of your
application in order to fiddle more and have the band
color show through more or less depending on how you
load your brush. It takes a little bit of work to
figure it out, but once you get it down, it's REALLY
quick work to even out the line blend technique.
The area blend technique takes FAAAAAR longer to
master, and will give you nicer results, probably,
but, hey, I have a life y'know, and this is good
enough to win contests without winning really BIG contests.
I ain't Van freaking Gogh, so why kid myself.
> washes though :( ) When you choose where you're going to blend, be very
> sparse with your paints, otherwise you're prone to just mashing and
> streaking them together instead.
Translucence with extender makes streaking and mashing disappear.
They will flatten streaks out by themselves. If they need a
little help, load your brush with almost pure extender and
zigzag over the brush streaks. They will dissappear like magic.
With the stripe blend technique, there is NO problem of mashing
colors, because you have thick "boundaries" of your striped
color to keep one simple blend from interfering with the next
one over. The fewer problems, the faster it is to learn.
Stripe blending rules.
I'm not kidding when I say I am an AMATEUR painter, with very
little interest and skill in mastering the fine art of the brush.
I do the stripe and line blend technique, and got a SLEW of
very positive comments at the LAGT for my very simple paint
scheme, based entirely on my flame blending and laser printed
(then somewhat painted) banners. Simple shit, and a busy
fuck like me could learn and do an army in two months with
no problem. Netted 25 out of 30 points for painting, and
I don't like painting. I was pleasantly surprised by the
feedback I got, and it was enough to make me want to start
going to town on my lizards.
Only 6 weeks ago, I got like 40% in painting scores for a
fundamentally identical army that had white instead of
blended flame. With stripe blended flame and nice banners,
that put me into the clump of the "nicely painted" crowd at 80%.
RTM
I think nearly every piece of work that he does
is complete ass.
Bad conversion. . . there is no cohesion
Bad painting. . . every fucking color is black to white
"shading/blending"
Bad focus. . . what the fuck is the focal point of this model? Christ.
Bad purpose. . . what the fuck IS this model?
His work is mediocre in skill and FUCKING OVER-RATED LIKE MY HAIRY ASS.
RTM
> > I'l be kneeling by the altar...
> >
> Well going by his taste in women and ..... objects ... that he is
> short-sighted. So if you're lucky he'll think you are a flower pot.
The "attention" he gives to flower pots depends
on whether he's had two beers or six.
RTM
As if anyone believes that JaG could drink six beers :-)
--
the Other Rob!
"Rob. ......... You're my hero ;)"
Fog, September 2001
Read it or weep http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
fixed your post (poorly)
>
> His work is mediocre in skill and FUCKING OVER-RATED LIKE MY HAIRY ASS.
>
> RTM
I just have to ask, why is your hairy as over rated?
Probably. However...
>Bollocks. Use only extender and water on your brush,
>and clean your brushes very well between colors.
Yup.
>Always have two metal rinse containers, one for
>rinsing normally, and one for final "I'm done with
>metals for a while" rinsing before using the same
>brush on non-metallics.
I just keep water and cleaning thinner on hand.
>Keep your brush clean, work with one color at a time
>when not blending, and you'll be just fine painting
>off of lids.
Agree. If one is careful and consistently so, then it's not a problem. I do
pretty much *all* of my painting from the lids, except when I'm mixing a shade
I don't have, and paint contamination has never been a problem. But I'm
religious about cleaning my brushes between colors.
For those who aren't so fastidious about their paints, the palette method is
probably safer.
>If you're blending, that's when you
>obviously need a pallette. Use a kitchen tile.
>I use a salsa lid. God knows I have enough sitting
>around THIS house.
Actually, I like the salsa containers for holding solvents and paint strippers.
[SNIP good description of stripe blending]
I usually don't do this, preferring to directly wash shadows and paint
highlights.
>> washes though :( ) When you choose where you're going to blend, be very
>> sparse with your paints, otherwise you're prone to just mashing and
>> streaking them together instead.
This is *very* true. Only a little paint at a time. It's easy to add more,
hard to subtract.
[SNIP more on painting]
Need to give URLs!
>I don't like painting. I was pleasantly surprised by the
>feedback I got, and it was enough to make me want to start
>going to town on my lizards.
Hey, if it works for you, then it's great!
>Only 6 weeks ago, I got like 40% in painting scores for a
>fundamentally identical army that had white instead of
>blended flame. With stripe blended flame and nice banners,
>that put me into the clump of the "nicely painted" crowd at 80%.
People are greatly impressed by techniques they don't know themselves.
Regardless of how easy it might be. However, once you've done it yourself, you
look at things a little differently.
To me, it's the things that stuck out the most to me. Such as the totally out
of place Necron Destroyer bits? I was wondering to myself "WTF are the SM
doing with Necron parts on their Landspeeder"?
>Bad purpose. . . what the fuck IS this model?
>
>His work is mediocre in skill
Agree.
>and FUCKING OVER-RATED LIKE MY HAIRY ASS.
Didn't want to know.
The only note I will add here is that these kinds of things require GW bitz
like mad, provide GW with plenty of paint sales, and keep Kneaditite in
business, so GW likes to encourage them.
Another -10 Sportsmanship points for RTM! I'd give you +20 on composition
though (and another 100 for accuracy).
> I just have to ask, why is your hairy as over rated?
All those girls who think I have a great butt
simply haven't seen it unclothed. I am the
envy of plumbers and ditch diggers worldwide.
RTM
> Another -10 Sportsmanship points for RTM! I'd give you +20 on composition
> though (and another 100 for accuracy).
Woot! My score keeps getting BETTER AND BETTER!
Apparently my sportsmanship score was likely high
enough that I won't get a "tsk tsk" letter from GW.
I think Vampy's subtraction would push me under. . .
RTM
-Go TEAM!-
I beg of the NG -- please, please let this particular topic of conversation
die...
John Hwang wrote:
>
> RT Maitreya hy...@speakeasy.org wrote:
> >Craig Little wrote:
> >> I just have to ask, why is your hairy as over rated?
> >
> >All those girls who think I have a great butt
> >simply haven't seen it unclothed. I am the
> >envy of plumbers and ditch diggers worldwide.
>
> I beg of the NG -- please, please let this particular topic of conversation
> die...
>
Well then, if you want me to I'll refrain from discussing RTM's butt
after this post. It will be difficult, but I will persevere just to
show you how much I think of your requests.
Janet Q. <--- never above a little flattery
::clears throat:: Any man's butt unclothed is ugly. I think that's the
real reason for the loin cloth.
> On RGMW, conversation about asses will never die
I have the kind of ass that should never go to prison. Or so I've been
told.
> Well then, if you want me to I'll refrain from discussing RTM's butt
> after this post. It will be difficult, but I will persevere just to
> Janet Q. <--- never above a little flattery
Aw, shucks.
RTM
That's very true. Jeans should be mandatory, as far as butts go. And if Dr
Dans butt is ugly, I certainly can't marry him.
/Anne
<quickly puts on tight jeans and walks around near Anne>
Justin
- firm enough to bounce quarters off.
> That's very true. Jeans should be mandatory, as far as butts go.
I get the jeans comment a lot when I wear them.
I just don't get it. I personally prefer women
to wear short skirts of thin fabric. Jeans
make it too hard to figure out what kind of
underwear you have chosen this morning.
> And if Dr Dans butt is ugly, I certainly can't marry him.
You'll have to make that determination for yourself.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
RTM
> I personally prefer women
> to wear short skirts of thin fabric. Jeans
> make it too hard to figure out what kind of
> underwear you have chosen this morning.
Or if any at all.
RT Maitreya wrote:
>
> Anne Ehrenholm wrote:
>
> > That's very true. Jeans should be mandatory, as far as butts go.
>
> I get the jeans comment a lot when I wear them.
> I just don't get it. I personally prefer women
> to wear short skirts of thin fabric. Jeans
> make it too hard to figure out what kind of
> underwear you have chosen this morning.
>
Men must wear jeans. Women can wear whatever they like. :)
>
> > And if Dr Dans butt is ugly, I certainly can't marry him.
>
> You'll have to make that determination for yourself.
> Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
>
Don't bring up mental images of beholders when speaking of butts. :)
Hey, I didn't say I wouldn't talk about RTM's butt or generic men-butts.
I assume you found that out by having someone throw quarters at your
posterior. Now, who would do a thing like that?
Then again, it beats some of the other drinking games I've seen.
Tom Beliech ("it wasn't me...")
> Justin Gaskins <me...@purdue.edu> wrote in message
> news:3BBB682B...@purdue.edu...
> > Anne Ehrenholm wrote:
> >
> > > In article <3BBA474C...@voicenet.com>, jqu...@voicenet.com wrote:
> > > That's very true. Jeans should be mandatory, as far as butts go. And if
> Dr
> > > Dans butt is ugly, I certainly can't marry him.
> >
> > <quickly puts on tight jeans and walks around near Anne>
> >
> > Justin
> > - firm enough to bounce quarters off.
>
> I assume you found that out by having someone throw quarters at your
> posterior. Now, who would do a thing like that?
You know me well enough by now that I don't have to answer that.
Me?
/Anne
Do you need to marry the butt? I have a cute butt and I'm only after
shamelessly freaky sex.
> In article <XoOu7.793688$ai2.60...@bin2.nnrp.aus1.giganews.com>, "Tom Beliech" <pont...@pcola.gulf.net> wrote:
> >
> >Justin Gaskins <me...@purdue.edu> wrote in message
> >news:3BBB682B...@purdue.edu...
> >> Anne Ehrenholm wrote:
> >>
> >> > In article <3BBA474C...@voicenet.com>, jqu...@voicenet.com wrote:
> >> > That's very true. Jeans should be mandatory, as far as butts go. And if
> >Dr
> >> > Dans butt is ugly, I certainly can't marry him.
> >>
> >> <quickly puts on tight jeans and walks around near Anne>
> >>
> >> Justin
> >> - firm enough to bounce quarters off.
> >
> >I assume you found that out by having someone throw quarters at your
> >posterior. Now, who would do a thing like that?
>
> Me?
Sounds like an offer to me.
>> >>
>> >> Justin
>> >> - firm enough to bounce quarters off.
>> >
>> >I assume you found that out by having someone throw quarters at your
>> >posterior. Now, who would do a thing like that?
>>
>> Me?
>
>Sounds like an offer to me.
Sure. I'll fling change at you any day.
/Anne
*Ouch* Not the face!
And you used to be nice to me. :(
So to speak...