Newbie Guide To Painting?
John Hwang
> All,
>
> I have about 300 or so miniatures, but I have only painted about 3 of
> them ever, and that was a few years back. I am consider actually
> getting into the painting of them.
Good for you!
> Right now, I only use them in fantasy rpg games in the (usually
> rare) occasions a fight breaks out (our games are more social-
> oriented).
OK. Then it'll be OK for you to paint them slowly.
> Anyway, is there a web site out there that tells about painting, from
> basic materials needed, to basic info on priming, painting, finishing,
> how to paint on different types of materials, types of brushes, and
> the like?
I dunno. But here's my version of the basics:
First, you need to make a couple of important decisions right off the
bat. Are you going to paint Dark and Realistic, or Bright and
Fantastic? This will affect how you go about things.
0. Supplies
Get the following: Hobby knife, needle files (various), epoxy putty,
water-based paint, and a set [2, 1, 0, 00 (2/0), 000 (3/0), 5/0, and
10/0] of *good* brushes. The knife and files are to clean up molding
imperfections like mold lines and stuff like that; also to file rough
spots smooth. Epoxy putty is to fill gaps and voids caused by air
bubbles and whatnot. Water-based paint is a godsend for cleanup and
brush longevity. Spray Primer. Pin vise and brass rod.
As for paint, there are a lot of opinions. Here's what I've found:
Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW paint is all CRAP. All enamel
and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and recommend the *OLD*
GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set), Floquil/Polly S, and
Badger acrylics. One thing's for sure, you're going to need a lot of
paint colors. I'd guess at least 16 colors (I have over twice that
many pots of paint). You don't need to get Inks, Glazes, or Washes.
But it won't hurt.
And finally, be sure to get Spray Primer. I like GW Primer over
Armoury Primer. GW's black is actually black, not a dark Grey. Yeah,
people use White primer, too, but I'm actually not such a great fan;
White primer is for Bright and Fantastic models, and I paint Dark and
Realistic.
If you have multi-part models, get a pin vise and some brass rod. Two
sizes: 3/64" and 1/32". 1/32" is easier to work with, but 3/64" is
stronger. 1/16" would be reserved for really big stuff, like Dragon
Wings.
1. Plan
Make a plan of what to paint. I recommend saving your best models for
last. I know you'll be *sorely* tempted to ignore me here, and jump
immediately on that limited-issue Ancient Great Dragon. Don't do it.
It'll look terrible and you be greatly disappointed. Instead, start
with something simple, small, and ugly -- I'd recommend a basic monster
like an Ork or Goblin. Plan to paint in groups of 5-10 *similar*
models, starting in smaller groups. After you get a few under your
belt, it'd be OK to throw in something "special", simply for variety.
But remember to save your best models until you have an idea of what
you're doing.
The more you paint, the better you'll get. Your first batches of
models are going to end up pretty bad. Sorry. But that's how you're
going to learn. If you're so motiviated (about a year from now), you
can strip and repaint them later.
There's a debate in RGMW over the "right" number of basic, non-detail
colors to use. It's all up to you, but fewer colors will tend to be
darker and more serious. Fewer colors, with shading, highlighting, and
washes will usually look better than more flat colors. Experiment here.
I've found anywhere from 2-4 basic colors seems to work fine, depending
on the model. A basic color is anything which you can see from across
the room. 2-4 detail colors seems to be a good way to go as well.
Detail colors are things which are sharp when you hold the model in
your hand. When in doubt, paint one model until you like it, then
duplicate the paint job. If you have throwaway models, this is what
they're good for.
2. Prep
File off mold lines and other such stuff. If it needs pinning, now's
the time to do it. Pins should be at least twice as deep as the
diameter, preferably three times the diameter.
Straighten spears and swords and whatnot. Flatten feet as necessary.
If you do this after painting, the paint will just flake off.
3. Prime
Spray lightly. You want a uniform color. If you can't get all of it,
that's fine too. Just touch it up with your big brush before you start
painting seriously.
If it needs re-prep, do it now, strip the primer, and re-prime.
4. Paint
You will find your own ways of doing things here. Major basic
techniques:
Drybrushing usually saves time for textured stuff like fur and hair.
Starting with black, one puts a bit of paint on the brush, and drags it
over the surface. Then bit less paint in a lighter shade, and an even
smaller amount of paint in an even lighter shade.
Painting and Inking works for paneled things. Other stuff can be
painted, then crevices wetly inked with black or a much darker shade,
then panel centers drybrushed with the original or somewhat lighter
shade. Most metal and armour can be done this way.
Washing with black, brown, etc. works well for big metal surfaces.
Paint it all a basic metal color. Then wash it with thinned down
black. The black should work it's way into the crevices, taking down
the brightness and picking out the detail. Drybrush lightly with the
metallic paint when it's all dry to pick up the raised detail.
Washing with color works for cloth. Drybrush dark grey, light grey,
and white. Then heavily wash the entire surface with colored ink.
This may take a couple coats until you get the color you like.
Experiment a lot. You *will* have to touch-up a bit after any washing
or drybrushing. That's OK.
5. Base the models.
Paint the bases or glue stuff to them and paint it.
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Richard Lobinske
>> basic materials needed, to basic info on priming, painting, finishing,
>> how to paint on different types of materials, types of brushes, and
>> the like?
>First, you need to make a couple of important decisions right off the
>bat. Are you going to paint Dark and Realistic, or Bright and
>Fantastic? This will affect how you go about things.
>
Well, I would just say natural or fantastic, I have many natural figures that
are not dark, and some fantasy that are distictly dark. I would describe
natural (or realistic) styles as looking like an actual small person when
observed. Fantastic will look like a 3-D comic, bold, high contrast, bright
color and looking larger than life.
>Get the following: Hobby knife, needle files (various), epoxy putty,
>water-based paint, and a set [2, 1, 0, 00 (2/0), 000 (3/0), 5/0, and
>10/0] of *good* brushes. The knife and files are to clean up molding
>imperfections like mold lines and stuff like that; also to file rough
>spots smooth. Epoxy putty is to fill gaps and voids caused by air
>bubbles and whatnot. Water-based paint is a godsend for cleanup and
>brush longevity. Spray Primer. Pin vise and brass rod.
>
I generally don't like to use the small brushes (> 00), I like to keep a well
pointed 0 or 00 liner for doing detail work. This however, is very much a
personal preferene.
Pick up some filler putty for plastic models. This comes as a tube with the
filler in a paste form, such as Squadron Green and White putty or Dr.
Microtools red. This has a softer consistancy than epoxy putty and works well
for filling small gaps and pinholes. Still get the epoxy putty for major gaps
and repairs, and later for conversion work.
>As for paint, there are a lot of opinions. Here's what I've found:
>Ral Partha, Armoury, and *current* GW paint is all CRAP. All enamel
>and acrylic enamal paint is CRAP. I use and recommend the *OLD*
>GW "pop-top" paint (if you can obtain a set), Floquil/Polly S, and
>Badger acrylics. One thing's for sure, you're going to need a lot of
>paint colors. I'd guess at least 16 colors (I have over twice that
>many pots of paint). You don't need to get Inks, Glazes, or Washes.
>But it won't hurt.
>
>And finally, be sure to get
I have also found that Tamiya and Gunze Sanyo are excellent paints ( and GS
paints have started coming down in price, my local store is now sellin them for
US$1.80 per bottle). Many others report good results from the higher quality
craft paints, and artists acrylics are also a very good bet. Once you learn to
mix colors well, you can mix any wash you wish and thin it down yourself,
eliminated the need for purchased washes and inks.
>And finally, be sure to get Spray Primer. I like GW Primer over
>Armoury Primer. GW's black is actually black, not a dark Grey. Yeah,
>people use White primer, too, but I'm actually not such a great fan;
>White primer is for Bright and Fantastic models, and I paint Dark and
>Realistic.
Krylon primer also works well. Primer color is another preference subject. I
prefer a light gray primer, which I find has less influence on applied colors
than white or black.
<Snip a large amount of high quality advice>
>When in doubt, paint one model until you like it, then
>duplicate the paint job. If you have throwaway models, this is what
>they're good for.
Pick up some of the real cheap Revel or Airfix 1/72 scale figures, the ones
that come between 40-50 per box for under US$10. These are soft plastic with
lazy detail, but they make great training figures that you won't feel bad about
messing up with your experiments.
<Snip more good advice>
Also, pick up how-to materials for larger figure kits, plastic models and model
railroads. You can find a huge amount of ideas from these sources. Always
keep an ear out for new ideas (like this forum) and be willing to try them. If
in doubt, ask, you will likely get a number of different reponses, try as many
as you can and decide what works best for you.
Death before dishonor,
Nothing before coffee
Shameless website Plug: Military Life on Saipan, 1944-1945
http://members.aol.com/RLobinske/Saipan.html
This is a cookie-free website