Rhino's removed
Mozzie
Mark Borton
troops are going to have to walk for the next 10 years
"Mozzie" <mozz...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3a7fc474$0$16391$7f31...@news01.syd.optusnet.com.au...
Rob Smeatham
Indeed they are.
--
-- Rob
Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/
Joost Schalken
news:3a7fc474$0$16391$7f31...@news01.syd.optusnet.com.au...
Where'd you hear/read this? Can't find information anywhere.
Joost
Daniel Blakemore
> like the sisters or chaos terminators?
Most likely....
--
Daniel Blakemore - mylord...@yahoo.com
Scifi Emporium (fan-fiction): http://members.nbci.com/dannyscifi/
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J2talk
like to see a new Rhino ( I 've had mine since the 80's) Especially if Gw
chooses to go with something like the one Clouseau did( See
http://www.geocities.com/craigclark.geo/rhino1.htm - GW needs to hire this guy)
But at the moment the GW website still has the current Rhino in the current
package, so I've been wondering why everyones talking about -"RHINO REMOVED"
>>Err..........What this about the Rhino's being removed?
>>I can still find them on the web site,Is GW nolonger shiping them?
>
>Hmmm.... Is the new rhino that close? Or is just a silly repackaging thing,
Mark Borton
The 1st land raiders where 2 for £10, and a box of 9 metal terminators was
£10 and they came in blisters of 3 for £5
"Titan and the Bandit Horde" <silly...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:uSfaMQIkAHA.341@cpmsnbbsa09...
> Oh maann!!
>
> We can't use Rhinos as the ultimate example of price gouging now. Even if
> the new Rhinos cost even more (they will), there is the small fact of the
> redesign/new mould etc. costs, making the example of rip-off-dom less
> straightforward.
>
> --
> Titan and the Bandit Horde
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Mark Borton
> It's great that. We could have some new plastic Aspect Warriors, or
> Wraithguard or something... ANYTHING we don't already have.
>
mmmmmMMMMMMMMMM
Plastic wraithguard
MMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmm
> Why are they wasting time on Rhinos? - OK the models weren't the best in
the
> world, but there are worse.
>
> The silly fools.
Daniel J. Hyman, Ph.D.
> chooses to go with something like the one Clouseau did( See
> http://www.geocities.com/craigclark.geo/rhino1.htm - GW needs to hire this guy)
Wow.
RTM
DavidR3986
I concur. Wow.
-David
Mark Borton
"DavidR3986" <david...@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
news:20010207190417...@ng-ft1.aol.com...
Sad thing is, i have done pretty much the same thing (Without the removable
fronts) with "proper Land raiders"
Also,
Whirlwind = Land Raider + Forgeworld manticore missile launcher
Predator = Land Raider + modified sponsons + Forge World Vanquisher Turret
razor back, as rhino, left off sponsons, but this time left or converter the
twin heavy bolters(lascannons)
Vindicator = Land Raider + Forgeworld Thunderer Siege tank kit
Mines the expensive way of doing things, but less fiddly i think..
> -David
Old Bear
"Mozzie" <mozz...@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:3a7fc474$0$16391$7f31...@news01.syd.optusnet.com.au...
Typing complete and worthwhile posts is beyond you, is it?
--
Old Bear, Duke of Blackpool
Bearer of CoJ Green Hat #3
Official RGMW Master Baiter
Y2K winner: RGMW Bad Cop award.
"But captain...it's a creature from another planet!" - unknown actor
"Oh, just fucking shoot it!" - William Shatner
John Hwang
No kidding. I had no idea foam core could be built up to look this
good. Looks like I now know where I'll be getting my techniques for
my "final" Storm Hammer and Death Maul...
--
--- John Hwang "J_H...@my-deja.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
MCV Fenderson
: "DavidR3986" <david...@aol.comnospam> wrote in message
: news:20010207190417...@ng-ft1.aol.com...
:> >> chooses to go with something like the one Clouseau did( See
:> >> http://www.geocities.com/craigclark.geo/rhino1.htm - GW needs to hire
:> >this guy)
:> >
:> >Wow.
:> >
:> >RTM
:>
:> I concur. Wow.
: Sad thing is, i have done pretty much the same thing (Without the removable
: fronts) with "proper Land raiders"
Except that Landraiders are maybe a bit too big for a rhino. This
mini-landraider is definitely the most awesome rhino I've ever seen,
and would probably look great if you also have a landraider in your
army.
: Also,
: Whirlwind = Land Raider + Forgeworld manticore missile launcher
: Predator = Land Raider + modified sponsons + Forge World Vanquisher Turret
: razor back, as rhino, left off sponsons, but this time left or converter the
: twin heavy bolters(lascannons)
: Vindicator = Land Raider + Forgeworld Thunderer Siege tank kit
Does all of that really fit that well? I can imagine you'd get a
really impressive set of rhino derivates. Do you have any pictures,
by any chance?
: Mines the expensive way of doing things, but less fiddly i think..
I'm afraid money is a more serious limit in my case. About $100
per vehicle is not for the weak of wallet.
mcv.
Mark Borton
"MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message
news:95ubhb$q...@cs.vu.nl...
I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things, and 4
LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar army,
which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby, (and
as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the entire
Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
>
> mcv.
Mario Tambay
all this is true and not someone trolling then I hope GW doesn' do
anything short-sighted with their new Rhinos :-)
Mario.
Hormagaunt/Termagaunt, life choice or genetic predisposition?
-Shave the Hellions.
Jakearon
>I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things, and 4
>LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar army,
>which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
>Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
>
>Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby, (and
>as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the entire
>Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
>forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
:)
++++++++++++
Jacob - <Insert rather amusing quote here>, bearer of Black and White Hat #1,
Black and White Shirt #1, Black and White Trousers #1, Black and White Gloves
#1, and *RGMW Merit Badge [Gold]*
MCV Fenderson
: "MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message:> : Mines the expensive way of doing things, but less fiddly i think..
:>
:> I'm afraid money is a more serious limit in my case. About $100
:> per vehicle is not for the weak of wallet.
:>
: I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things, and 4
: LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar army,
: which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
: Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
Wow.
All I have is 100 squats and assorted other bits. And no vehicles.
: Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby, (and
: as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the entire
: Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
: forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
Are you sure there isn't anything better to spend all that money on?
Send your kids to college, buy a house, feed children in Africa,
start your own company, or something like that?
Even if I was a multi-millionaire, I wouldn't buy 37 landraiders.
Not for myself, atleast. I'd never have the time to paint them.
mcv.
The Man In The Iron Mech
Thirded. Wow. GW *REALLY* needs to hire this guy. If this was the Rhino
kit, it would probably justify the thirty bucks I's shell out for one...if
it included the Razorback modifications.
I can't wait until he tries out a Vindicator variant.
-A.
--
"WE PUT CHEESE IN PLACES YOU NEVER THOUGHT OF!"
-James "Kibo" Perry
-Proud wearer of green hat #901 of the almighty Church of Jimi
-Licenced PokeGone(tm) Exterminator
*Remove the "obvious" to reply
Mark Borton
> Mark Borton <MarkB...@deepspacenine.com> wrote:
> : "MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message
> : news:95ubhb$q...@cs.vu.nl...
> :> Mark Borton <MarkB...@deepspacenine.com> wrote:
> :>
> :> : Mines the expensive way of doing things, but less fiddly i think..
> :>
> :> I'm afraid money is a more serious limit in my case. About $100
> :> per vehicle is not for the weak of wallet.
> :>
>
> : I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things,
and 4
> : LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar
army,
> : which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
> : Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
>
> Wow.
>
> All I have is 100 squats and assorted other bits. And no vehicles.
i want squats
>
> : Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby,
(and
> : as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the
entire
> : Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
> : forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
>
> Are you sure there isn't anything better to spend all that money on?
> Send your kids to college, buy a house, feed children in Africa,
> start your own company, or something like that?
no kids, house is fine and paid for, children in africa can feed themselves,
im not paying 99pence in the pound to pay for the celebrity that hosts the
adverts for them, and i already have my own company..
>
> Even if I was a multi-millionaire, I wouldn't buy 37 landraiders.
> Not for myself, atleast. I'd never have the time to paint them.
>
SPONGE !!!!, or SPRAY paint for tanks
>
> mcv.
Robert Williams
>which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
>Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
>
All done with sponges, no less ;P
>Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby
What is your job?
Rob
spacem...@my-deja.com
order Rhinos, it's not on the form. Maybe a typo, maybe clearing the
shelves for the new one....
Mark Borton
"Robert Williams" <rs...@tesco.net> wrote in message
news:95v5uv$387$1...@epos.tesco.net...
>
> >which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
> >Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
> >
>
> All done with sponges, no less ;P
not sponged, sprayed white, then washed with yellow ink + 1 full spray of
orange ink, then lightly sponged sunburst yellow, black on the weapons, blue
on the heads + other little bits, then highlighted
quite a lot of work per model, but the basic colour scheme can be done
quickly
>
>
> >Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby
>
> What is your job?
Whatever i want it to be that day, :-), bonus of owning your own company, at
the moment i desgine network solutions, don`t know what ill be doing in a
few months, mabye the same thing, mabye desgining weigh count systems
>
> Rob
>
Blackheart, The CEO of Hardcore
<MarkB...@DEEPSPACENINE.COM> wrote:
>
>"MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message
>news:95upq6$6...@cs.vu.nl...
>> Mark Borton <MarkB...@deepspacenine.com> wrote:
>> : "MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message
>> : news:95ubhb$q...@cs.vu.nl...
>> :> Mark Borton <MarkB...@deepspacenine.com> wrote:
>> :>
>> :> : Mines the expensive way of doing things, but less fiddly i think..
>> :>
>> :> I'm afraid money is a more serious limit in my case. About $100
>> :> per vehicle is not for the weak of wallet.
>> :>
>>
>> : I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things,
>and 4
>> : LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar
>army,
>> : which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
>> : Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
>>
>> Wow.
>>
>> All I have is 100 squats and assorted other bits. And no vehicles.
>
>i want squats
>
>
Paul Sawyer: "Have two pints and a curry."
Blackheart
-----------------------------------------
Rogue Trader Fanboy, Anti-Enigma Heretic and all around really cool guy.
Way farther to the right than anyone else here....
Too damn hardcore for the RGMW Rogue Trader Cult and founder of the REAL Rogue Trader Cult.
(You know... the ones that actually play the game.)
Official RGMW Authority Figure
Official RGMM "Last Man Standing."
Disclaimer: The opinions stated above are mine. If you don't agree, or just generally don't like them... then it sucks to be you.
And I still get my 40% discount...
Torak
(and
> >as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the entire
> >Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
> >forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
>
> bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
> bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
> bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
> bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
> bastard, bastard, bastard, bastard,
I can't overemphasize my agreement...
Torak
4
You... I... Land... gulp... wha'... WHAT?!? Which LR, old or new?
> Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby,
(and
Thank you, Mr Bill Gates, for those encouraging words. ;-)
> as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the entire
> Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
> forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
At Ł400 a pop... wow. What is your job, just out of interest? (I want it...)
Torak
> >
> > What is your job?
>
> Whatever i want it to be that day, :-), bonus of owning your own company,
at
> the moment i desgine network solutions, don`t know what ill be doing in a
> few months, mabye the same thing, mabye desgining weigh count systems
I want your job.
Mark Borton
"Blackheart, The CEO of Hardcore" <twiligh...@qis.net> wrote in message
news:3a835092...@news.qis.net...
> On Thu, 8 Feb 2001 22:10:48 -0000, "Mark Borton"
> <MarkB...@DEEPSPACENINE.COM> wrote:
>
> >
> >"MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message
> >news:95upq6$6...@cs.vu.nl...
> >> Mark Borton <MarkB...@deepspacenine.com> wrote:
> >> : "MCV Fenderson" <mc...@keg.cs.vu.nl> wrote in message
> >> : news:95ubhb$q...@cs.vu.nl...
> >> :> Mark Borton <MarkB...@deepspacenine.com> wrote:
> >> :>
> >> :> : Mines the expensive way of doing things, but less fiddly i think..
> >> :>
> >> :> I'm afraid money is a more serious limit in my case. About $100
> >> :> per vehicle is not for the weak of wallet.
> >> :>
> >>
> >> : I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other
things,
> >and 4
> >> : LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar
> >army,
> >> : which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made
of
> >> : Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
> >>
> >> Wow.
> >>
> >> All I have is 100 squats and assorted other bits. And no vehicles.
> >
> >i want squats
> >
> >
>
> Paul Sawyer: "Have two pints and a curry."
what do you recommend for the mega armoured ones?
Mark Borton
"Torak" <to...@andrew-perry.com> wrote in message
news:0gBg6.133$o6....@news.chello.be...
> > I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things,
and
> 4
> > LRCs [...] <snip>
>
> You... I... Land... gulp... wha'... WHAT?!? Which LR, old or new?
>
new, bought 9 new ones when the game out, and just ordered lots after i had
built them, there just to cool, and look right, the "Rhino" as it stands now
is just to small
> > Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby,
> (and
>
> Thank you, Mr Bill Gates, for those encouraging words. ;-)
Bill gates <spit> don`t mention his name
>
> > as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the
entire
> > Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
> > forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
>
> At £400 a pop... wow. What is your job, just out of interest? (I want
it...)
>
Nahh, the FW thunderhawks are only going to be around £150, ive already had
words with them over getting a discount if i ordered ten or more
Torak
> and
> > 4
> > > LRCs [...] <snip>
> >
> > You... I... Land... gulp... wha'... WHAT?!? Which LR, old or new?
> >
>
> new, bought 9 new ones when the game out, and just ordered lots after i
had
> built them, there just to cool, and look right, the "Rhino" as it stands
now
> is just to small
At the moment, I REALLY wish I was you.
> > > Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby,
> > (and
> >
> > Thank you, Mr Bill Gates, for those encouraging words. ;-)
>
> Bill gates <spit> don`t mention his name
OK, I won't mention the pauper.
> > > as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the
> entire
> > > Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon
as
> > > forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
> >
> > At Ł400 a pop... wow. What is your job, just out of interest? (I want
> it...)
> >
>
> Nahh, the FW thunderhawks are only going to be around Ł150, ive already
had
> words with them over getting a discount if i ordered ten or more
What did they say?
Robert Williams
Torak wrote in message ...
Lucky fellow. Shouldn't you be saving some mony (or sending it to me
for....safekeeping) though, for it times got hard?
Rob
Mark Borton
i do that too (just got in from buying hive tyrants, zoenthropes, raveners
and gargoyles)
>
> Rob
>
>
Vampy
news:981629234.2361.0...@news.demon.co.uk...
>
> Sad thing is, i have done pretty much the same thing (Without the
removable
> fronts) with "proper Land raiders"
>
> Also,
>
> Whirlwind = Land Raider + Forgeworld manticore missile launcher
> Predator = Land Raider + modified sponsons + Forge World Vanquisher Turret
> razor back, as rhino, left off sponsons, but this time left or converter
the
> twin heavy bolters(lascannons)
> Vindicator = Land Raider + Forgeworld Thunderer Siege tank kit
Land Raider = Battlemasters Beastmen fig + broken skeleton arm
Jakearon
>> Sad thing is, i have done pretty much the same thing (Without the
>removable
>> fronts) with "proper Land raiders"
>>
>> Also,
>>
>> Whirlwind = Land Raider + Forgeworld manticore missile launcher
>> Predator = Land Raider + modified sponsons + Forge World Vanquisher Turret
>> razor back, as rhino, left off sponsons, but this time left or converter
>the
>> twin heavy bolters(lascannons)
>> Vindicator = Land Raider + Forgeworld Thunderer Siege tank kit
>
>Land Raider = Battlemasters Beastmen fig + broken skeleton arm
broken skeleton arm=landraider. hah! figure that one out!
RT Maitreya
> >Land Raider = Battlemasters Beastmen fig + broken skeleton arm
>
> broken skeleton arm=landraider. hah! figure that one out!
You guys finally got me.
I don't think even *I* can do that
conversion/substitution.
RTM
Bagheera
Not according to my local GW store.
They said the Rhino is still strong and going.
So unless you have a press release that I can take to them and shove in
their face, keep it to yourself.
--
Bagherra <bagh...@my-deja.com>
http://www.frenzy.com/~jaebear
"You can't run from trouble, there ain't no place far enough."
Old Bear
> Land Raider = Battlemasters Beastmen fig + broken skeleton arm
Now that's the way to do it!
Insane Ranter
<Bagheera>; "the jungle scout" <bagh...@my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:967la8$4sg$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
> In article <3a7fc474$0$16391$7f31...@news01.syd.optusnet.com.au>,
> "Mozzie" <mozz...@optusnet.com.au> wrote:
> > Replacements are on the way!
>
> Not according to my local GW store.
> They said the Rhino is still strong and going.
> So unless you have a press release that I can take to them and shove in
> their face, keep it to yourself.
Why the need to be so volient and shove it in there face?
Craig Grady
> I have , to date, 26 Land Raiders as land raiders, 11 as other things, and
4
> LRCs, i also have the "Engine of Vaul" (Three Scorpians) for my eldar
army,
> which is Iyanden, and has a full complement of six troop choices made of
> Wrathguard (ive also got LOOOOOOOOOADS of other stuff,)
>
> Money isn`t an issue, i earn enough to spend what i like on the hobby,
(and
> as soon as i get round to making them all i will have finished the entire
> Ultramarine chapter as it is listed in the back of the codex, as soon as
> forgeworld get there thunder hawks out)
and you will probably die with them unassembled and unpainted.
How anyone can consider unassembled and unpainted mini's/models part of
there collection is a joke.
I would also like to question the need of an entire chapter? are you going
to fight a campaign where they whittled down to nothing, whilst burying the
dead in the garden? and who are you going to fight? or are you just
planning to open your own museum with silver ultramarines?
Perhaps you should invest your 'mass of wealth' in that goal rather that
amassing more of, what essenitially is usless tat in there present state.
Craig
Asmodea Drey'Haus
though it's more of a really dark grey, then with a moderate brush over of
GW black paint. Give a slightly noticeable shading effect where the cracks
are, and I don't have to worry about trying to paint into every crack. My
`Nids are sprayed camo green, and then brushed over with white. The green in
the little cracks really helps detail to stand out, and again, I don't need
to worry about painting into every little detail. The only real problem with
the spray paint, is zip kicker strips it like it wasn't even there to begin
with. On a side note, I would recommend zip kicker for anyone who needs to
strip a GW spray paint off a model. It will wash the paint off Real easy,
and doesn't damage the plastic at all.
Asmodea Drey'Haus
RT Maitreya
> And then once you take them off the sprues you've got lots of places you
> have to put primer on to cover up the cuts from the sprues and other
> places where you have to take the primer off to get the minis to go
> together...Too much extra work there...
And mold lines. No way.
RTM
Jim M
news:3AB03965...@speakeasy.org...
> Craig Grady wrote:
>
<snip>
> The nice part is that I am able to assemble groups
> of miniatures together for needed purposes of
> mordheim or role playing. They are there, all
> I have to do is file the mold lines off, assemble,
> and prime. I am up to about a thousand in that
> very state. At least the RPGers can look over
> yonder and say "clearly we are being attacked
> by lizardmen, let's head back to that halfling
> village for reinforcements" and never have to
> substitute figures. . . Just me being me, I suppose.
>
> RTM
I know the feeling, you should have seen the look on the faces of my players
when I pulled out a couple of fully painted carrion crawlers. Thing is they
didn't even know a miniature existed for them and I had one from two
different companies! Unfortunately I also have a crap load of old figures
(mostly lead), lying in boxes unpainted!
--
Jim
j...@hnjcomics.com
http://www.hnjcomics.com
remove the " hat." if you want to e-mail me
Avatar
: I know the feeling, you should have seen the look on the faces of my players
: when I pulled out a couple of fully painted carrion crawlers. Thing is they
: didn't even know a miniature existed for them and I had one from two
: different companies! Unfortunately I also have a crap load of old figures
: (mostly lead), lying in boxes unpainted!
:
I have a lot of minis in that are either unpainted, unbuilt or partially
painted. I also have a bunch of minis that are painted as well. For me
in recent years I've been picking up all the minis for the armies I wish
to create in preparation for our buying a house soon and needing to spend
more money on its upkeep than on my mini hobby at the same time. That way
I have plenty of projects to last me many a long day without having to do
anymore shopping. Looking forward to the spring so that I can get all the
minis I've been building over the winter months into a primered state. It
makes me happy to have minis in various states so that I can fulfill
whichever mini based urges I have. I can play with those that are built.
I can paint those that are primered. I can build those that need
building. The only step in the equation that I really don't like is the
primering phase. Just too messy and annoying sometimes...:P Not much
satisfaction to be gained from inhaling spray fumes and getting paint all
over the place...;)
Avatar
Asmodea Drey'Haus
coated, mostly because I use a spray on them while they are still on the
plastic sprues. Works wonders if you ask me.
Asmodea Drey'Haus
Jim M
> Jim M (j...@hat.hnjcomics.com) wrote:
>
<snip>
> The only step in the equation that I really don't like is the
> primering phase. Just too messy and annoying sometimes...:P Not much
> satisfaction to be gained from inhaling spray fumes and getting paint all
> over the place...;)
>
> Avatar
Two questions one, do you have a garage? second do you have an old cardboard
box 18x24x12 works great! But any large size will do, I use this if the
weather does not permit me to spray out of doors. I just open the garage
door a bit and spray, the primer dries fairly quickly so it's not a problem.
Another solution is to get a large box and cut a small hole in the back
about the size of a computer cooling fan (3-1/2" square, mount the cooling
fan to the back of the box so that it will pull the air through the hole,
don't forget to hook it up to a transformer (old train transformers work
great). Now place the hole mess in a window and turn the fan on, spray the
figure making sure the over-spray goes toward the back of the box, the fan
will take out most of the fumes.
RT Maitreya
> makes me happy to have minis in various states so that I can fulfill
> whichever mini based urges I have. I can play with those that are built.
> I can paint those that are primered. I can build those that need
> building.
I completely agree with you here. I have
stages of different minis just like above,
except in all three categories of: Fantasy,
Sci Fi, and Terrain-based pieces.
> The only step in the equation that I really don't like is the
> primering phase. Just too messy and annoying sometimes...:P Not much
> satisfaction to be gained from inhaling spray fumes and getting paint all
I disagree here. Primering is the glorious
step that occurs to make an item playable
for role-playing or friendly battles. It
is fully mold-line removed, fully modeled
with whatever extras, assembled, and put
on a base. I work on putting things together
in this fashion until I have enough for a
primer run, and do 10 items at once and
am damn proud of them.
RTM
-Has a lot of primered figs waiting for
some acrylic lovin-
RT Maitreya
> > No the interesting point has anyone got stuff like that that they would
> > be prepared to pass on for use? I'm a uni student, (read poor) but would
> > like to get some of them.
> WHAT! Part with my old mini's....I suppose next you will be wanting my old
> comic books as well!
Jeez, I've got tons of both. . .
and don't care about the comics. . .
RTM
Jim M
news:MPG.151c5a0ce...@61.9.128.12...
> In article <98r0mr$f...@netaxs.com>, ava...@netaxs.com says...
> > Jim M (j...@hat.hnjcomics.com) wrote:
> >
> > : I know the feeling, you should have seen the look on the faces of my
players
> > : when I pulled out a couple of fully painted carrion crawlers. Thing
is they
> > : didn't even know a miniature existed for them and I had one from two
> > : different companies! Unfortunately I also have a crap load of old
figures
> > : (mostly lead), lying in boxes unpainted!
> > :
> > I have a lot of minis in that are either unpainted, unbuilt or partially
> > painted.
>
> that dates from the days of rogue trader. some of those look really good
> is is far more suited to what I would like to see done (that is role
> play).
>
> No the interesting point has anyone got stuff like that that they would
> be prepared to pass on for use? I'm a uni student, (read poor) but would
> like to get some of them.
>
>
> Copthis.
WHAT! Part with my old mini's....I suppose next you will be wanting my old
comic books as well!
--
Jim
j...@hnjcomics.com
http://www.hnjcomics.com
remove the " hat." if you want to e-mail me
E-mail me for my latest list of on sale gaming items!
copthis
>
> : I know the feeling, you should have seen the look on the faces of my players
> : when I pulled out a couple of fully painted carrion crawlers. Thing is they
> : didn't even know a miniature existed for them and I had one from two
> : different companies! Unfortunately I also have a crap load of old figures
> : (mostly lead), lying in boxes unpainted!
> :
> I have a lot of minis in that are either unpainted, unbuilt or partially
> painted.
A question for you all, has anyone got the OLD Citidale stuff? the stuff
copthis
>
> WHAT! Part with my old mini's....I suppose next you will be wanting my old
> comic books as well!
LOL but they are SO cool :) I love the Zoat, I have a few squats (not as
many as I would like) and I always wanted this armourd dude who looks
like he is wearing a modern style hazard suite as seen in Hollywood.
(page 13 of Rogue trader)I would kill for an inner guard with there big
capes and eldar-ish helm with the big plum. Some of the old eldar looked
MEAN, particularly the heavy weapons one as seen on P181 of Rogue Trader.
The whole feel was GOTHIC!!, now the feel is *in sing song voice* gothic
Copthis.
Avatar
:
: I completely agree with you here. I have
: except in all three categories of: Fantasy,
: Sci Fi, and Terrain-based pieces.
I am the same, though I've put my terrain building on hold until we buy a
house and I have some place to actually store the terrain pieces I've
made. Storage is presently at a modicum. I also have a separate pile of
minis that have nothing to do with any of the armies or games I play and
are just minis that I bought to paint...
: I disagree here. Primering is the glorious
: step that occurs to make an item playable
: for role-playing or friendly battles. It
: is fully mold-line removed, fully modeled
: with whatever extras, assembled, and put
: on a base. I work on putting things together
: in this fashion until I have enough for a
: primer run, and do 10 items at once and
: am damn proud of them.
I think part of my problem is that since its a production to take
everything outside for primer runs I tend to do primer sessions enmasse,
almost to the scale of priming an entire army at once. It takes a while,
then. Last session included all fo my new skellie and zombie regiments (2
of each) along with a 16 strong unit of converted wight cavalry (finally
found a use for those brettonian knights from my 5th edition boxed set)
and a bunch of dire wolves. Way too many things get primered in that
sitting...Though my undead army has expanded dramatically thanks to that
session...:)
Avatar
Avatar
:
: Two questions one, do you have a garage? second do you have an old cardboard
: box 18x24x12 works great! But any large size will do, I use this if the
: weather does not permit me to spray out of doors. I just open the garage
: door a bit and spray, the primer dries fairly quickly so it's not a problem.
Have a box that I regularly do my priming in. No garage or basement,
though. We currently are renting in a townhouse development. I used to
just primer minis in the front room where I do my painting using fans and
the like with the open window, but can't do that anymore since our ferrets
now live in that room as well, and even with the window the fumes do still
collect a bit. So I'm left with primer coating minis on the patio when
the weather is nice. Last time I went to prime minis it was beautifully
sunny, so I gathered up all my stuff and a whole bunch of minis, went
outside, and just as I got everything set up and began to start the sky
immediately became cloudy and then it started to rain...Totally out of the
blue...Its at moments like that that its really hard to shake that
paranoia that the fates are conspiring against you...:)
Avatar
Avatar
: Lots of my stuff is unpainted for the most part. Everything is primed/base
: coated, mostly because I use a spray on them while they are still on the
: plastic sprues. Works wonders if you ask me.
And then once you take them off the sprues you've got lots of places you
have to put primer on to cover up the cuts from the sprues and other
places where you have to take the primer off to get the minis to go
together...Too much extra work there...
Avatar
Myrmidon
In article <98tbtt$r...@netaxs.com>, ava...@netaxs.com says...
Hello! Where have you people been? If you have any place near by that
sells artists supplies look for an item called 'Art masking Fluid' by
Winsor & Newton. It's a rubber material in thin liquid form designed to
be painted onto surfaces and is used on water color paintings to mask of
specific areas. To say that this stuff is a Godsend to model and mini
painting and assembling is to grossly understate it's value.
What you'll need...
Bottle of Art Masking Fluid, 2 or 3 decent paint brushes (don't use
expensive sable brushes - this stuff can be hard on the brush - a good
synthetic brush with a decent tip will do fine and last longer), some
sort of mineral spirits type of solvent (testors solvent for enamel model
paints works fine for this) and a small bowl of water.
How to...
AMF is relatively thin, like acrylic paint, but drys very quickly.
As always - wash your parts in warm soapy water to remove any mold
release agent still on the parts and let them dry. Simply remove the
parts from their sprues and/or clean up and spurs and mold lines as
needed.
In it's liquid state AMF can be thinned with water. Simply paint it on
the areas that you want to keep free of paint. Once it's dry, it can be
painted over with anything that won't dissolve rubber (if your unsure of
the primer/paint you're using, test it on a piece of sprue with AMF on it
first.) Since the AMF has the tendency to dry very rapidly, it's often
difficult to do a complete unit of minis or multi-part kit before the AMF
starts drying in the brush and gumming it up. Once the brush starts to
gum up, simply peel any excess of the outer surface of the ferrule and
bristles, and then use the mineral spirits to dissolve the stuff inside
the bristles - use an old rag or paper towel to squeeze out the goo, and
wipe the brush clean - repeat until the bristles don't seem to be a gooey
matted mess. Since mineral spirits evaporate through a chemical process
fanning it with air won't speed up the drying process, so set that brush
aside for a few minutes and take up another brush and continue applying
the AMF to your minis. Now you know why I said 2 or 3 brushes. :) By
the time the 2nd or 3rd brush is gummed up, your first brush should be
mineral spirit free enough to use again without any adverse effects.
CAUTION: If you do make a mistake and get some AMF on areas you don't
want to mask off, DO NOT try to wipe it off while it's wet. It'll gum up
and make a worse mess. Just wait 5 - 10 minutes for it to dry completely
and peel it off (see removing AMF below) then re-apply the AMF only to
the desired area this time. :)
Once the AMF is completely dry, you're ready to go. Primer away! (If
you are using a hair dry to warm you plastic/metal parts before primering
- helps the primer cover smoothly - make sure not to over do it with the
heat. It could cause the AMF to blister or peel and let paint on to areas
you don't want it on.) Once the primer is dry - you have two choices.
Leave the AMF on and paint the mini as normal, or remove the AMF and then
paint the mini. Personally, I remove the AMF after the primer stage on
minis because I hand paint them all with a brush, and if I've unknowingly
gotten AMF in an area I didn't want it in, if find out and simply touch
up the area BEFORE I do all my detail work. Otherwise you could possible
mare a paint job you've put a lot of effort into. On large models like
tanks, I simply paint it with AMF, primer it, do the spray base color and
then remove the AMF and work on the details and assemble it.
Removing AMF from your minis/model. AMF is very simple to remove - just
use a bit of caution and some obvious sense. Removing AMF is like
removing old dry rubber cement. You can use your finger or a small tool
(I use toothpick/cocktail sticks, and dental tools) to carefully rub the
AMF - it'll peel up and form rubber boogers (you know, like the kind you
used to make with rubber cement in school when you were a wee tad). You
simply have to be careful not to scratch the primered/painted areas with
your tool. If you have waited until after the final paint job to remove
your AMF, use a cotton swab with some of the cotton taken of the end to
start peeling up the AMF so that you're less likely to scratch your paint
job accidently, and then use a cocktail stick for any small nooks that
don't want to come clean.
After you've removed the AMF and/or finished painting the mini, you can
pin, glue, and assemble as normal.
Other ideas - Layering with AMF.
CAUTION: I have not personally tested this on plastic minis with acrylic
paint (which is what I normally use on my minis). I have however used
this technique many times on quality water color paper with watercolor
and acrylic paints to great effect.
You can (theoretically on minis with acrylic) build up one or more layers
of paint and AMF where the goal is to peel away the AMF to reveal the
paint layers below it - let each layer dry complete before putting on the
next layer. Here's an example...
Layer one - white paint.
Layer two - AMF painted on the white surface in the shape of a skull with
open (uncovered areas) for the eye sockets, etc.
Layer three - cover the white surface including the skull with black
paint.
Layer four - now cover the eye sockets and sundry detail of the skull
with AMF.
Layer five - carefully scumble/dry brush gold around the skull and into
the surrounding black (if you push down to hard with the brush while dry
brushing, you'll peel up the AMF prematurely which we don't want.) Don't
worry if you get gold on the skull area, that's what the AMF is for.
Once you're finished, carefully remove the AMF using a cotton swab or
your finger so you don't scratch up the surface. The end result should
be a crisp white skull, with black eye sockets and sundry detail, with a
golden halo effect on a black background all in crisp, sharp outline.
As I've said, I've never done this on a mini, but its worked many times
on paper with watercolor, acrylics and gauche. I don't see any reason
why it would not work on minis too if done carefully.
Hope that helps.
Later,
Myrmidon
--
And I want someone to slap me with a fish every time I buy something new,
assemble it, and then leave it unpainted for months.
- Jakearon
RGMW FAQ: http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
RT Maitreya
> Hello! Where have you people been? If you have any place near by that
> sells artists supplies look for an item called 'Art masking Fluid' by
I'll just be cutting and pasting
that post into a little text file. . .
Thanks again, Myrm,
RTM
Avatar
:
: Hello! Where have you people been? If you have any place near by that
: Winsor & Newton. It's a rubber material in thin liquid form designed to
: be painted onto surfaces and is used on water color paintings to mask of
: specific areas. To say that this stuff is a Godsend to model and mini
: painting and assembling is to grossly understate it's value.
I've been using masking for the last 20 years....The point is that I see
even less need for masking when it comes to the methods you've described.
I already have no interest in priming on the sprues and then having to
clean up and reprimer parts. Why would I have any interest in taking
everything off the sprues, cleaning it up, masking it, primering it and
then cleaning off the masking before assembly and then still needing to
touch up primering once its all done to cover up glue and masking
mistakes?? Why not just spend 3 months preparing and building a single
plastics regiment box. NO THANKS! I will happily stick to removing from
sprues, cleaning up the parts, building and *then* putting on the primer
so that it covers only the parts and spots it needs to and also covers up
the glue from assemble as well.
Why go to all the trouble and insanity of using masking...Just makes the
process that much more lengthy and annoying...I will continue to use
masking to paint heavy duty design and layered detail on my larger models,
but can't see the point in using it the way you've described
pre-assembly...
Avatar
Myrmidon
> Myrmidon (junkema...@woh.rr.com) wrote:
> :
<snipped intro about using art masking fluid>
Hello Avatar,
Apologies in advance if I'm wrong, but I take it you DIDN'T
actually bother to carefully read the article I wrote did you?
If you look, you'll note that I was replying to your comment to someone
else that it was a pain to primer on the sprues and then still have to
touch up all the parts where you cut them off the sprue. Point taken -
but note that my method of removing the parts, carefully masking them,
and then primering them works just fine and solves that issue with very
little time and effort for great results.
> I've been using masking for the last 20 years....
So what? Telling us you've been doing something a long time doesn't mean
a lot. If you've been doing it the hard way for 20 years instead of
exploring the possibilities of finding a different method that works as
well or better while saving time, then I'm not impressed.
> The point is that I see
> even less need for masking when it comes to the methods you've described.
> I already have no interest in priming on the sprues and then having to
> clean up and reprimer parts. Why would I have any interest in taking
> everything off the sprues, cleaning it up, masking it, primering it and
> then cleaning off the masking before assembly and then still needing to
> touch up primering once its all done to cover up glue and masking
> mistakes??
Here you make a number of assumptions or just plain ignore what I posted
in the previous article.
1. I want to have a model that is reasonably well painted.
and
2. When I glue the joints of my model together, I want the joint
surfaces to be free of any other material. I don't want to glue a paint
or primer surface to another paint or primer surface as this makes a very
weak joint. I also do not want to have scrape the area clean that I'm
trying to glue - takes time that isn't needed, can accidently damage a
painted area, and is never as good as starting out with a clean surface
to glue together in the first place.
Looking at point #1 (well painted). I do not find it easy, or in
some cases possible at all, to paint some areas of a model that are
visible if it's assembled BEFORE I attempt to paint it. Hence the desire
to only assemble the parts that will NOT interfere with my painting of
the mini. If you want an example of this - simply look at the Plasma
Gunner from the 40K devastators squad boxed set. If you glue that figure
together before primering and/or painting - you are going to have a hell
of a time making the figure look good. First of all, (and yes, this is a
personal opinion, not some hard and fast rule) I dislike seeing otherwise
well painted minis that have visible unprimered/unpainted areas and areas
where the primer shows because the person couldn't get a brush into the
small area to paint it. On the plasma gunner, you can see the chest
emblem, and other detail, but you won't be able to paint it to a nice
level of detail only being able to get the brush in from one angle and
with limited reach. Which brings us to point #2. My grand-da was a
pretty sharp character and he always used to say "It takes less time to
do it right the first time, rather than all the extra time you waste if
you cut corners and have to do it over again." I don't want my time
spent painting the minis to go to waste by having the paint chipped off
them about the time the mini gets broken. Obviously the best solution to
the inevitable dropped mini is to make sure the joints are glued together
in the sturdiest manner available to me. (I generally pin all my mini's
joints together, regardless of whether it's all plastic, metal, or a
combination of the two. In the 15+ years I've been playing 40K, I've
never had one that was assembled with that method break from being
dropped off the table.)
So, now that we know I have an assembly strategy, lets address your
complaints...
> primering it and
> then cleaning off the masking before assembly and then still needing to
> touch up primering once its all done to cover up glue and masking
> mistakes??
I plainly pointed out in the article that "Personally, I remove the AMF
after the primer stage on minis because I hand paint them all with a
brush, and if I've unknowingly gotten AMF in an area I didn't want it in,
I find out and simply touch up the area BEFORE I do all my detail work."
If I have an area that was inadvertantly covered - I remove the Art
Masking Fluid (AMF) and spend a whole 3 - 4 minutes (max) touching up
the primer on an enter squad of figures. And I'm done! I do my finish
painting with brushes which since I'm not spraying on paint means I don't
have to worry about over spray on the now uncovered areas I masked during
primering. Once I have the model painted to the desired level of detail.
I glue the mini together, seal as desired, flock the base as needed, and
I'm done.
This plainly answers why I don't have to do any paint touch ups after
I've assembled the mini.
As for gluing mistakes - I don't know what method(s) you use, but I'm
glad I'm not copying your methods! I use Plastruc's 'Plastic Weld',
Super Glue, and various 2 part epoxys such as 10 minute epoxy, and for
really high strength joints I'll use 330, and 440 'molecular connector'
epoxy. (I've had knowledgeable friends tell me that mechanics sometimes
use this stuff to repair loose rivets in aircraft wings - it's damn
strong, I've seen a mini break, but not the 440 glued joint.) The tone of
your post, and the fact that you repeat this complain twice leads me to
think that you might want to re-evaluate your gluing methods. I have yet
had to do any serious touch-up work on a mini or unit of minis due to
joints breaking after gluing - net result, I saved time.
When using any sort of liquid glue with a brush (like the Plastruc
stuff), carefully and throughly wipe the excess off the brush on the
inner edge of the container and then only apply a moderate amount the
joint. When using epoxy or super glue, mix or squeeze out some on an
expendable surface (I find 3x5 note cards are wonderful for this) and use
a small expendable tool (I use toothpicks/cocktail sticks) to apply small
amounts of glue to the joint as needed. I always avoid applying glue
straight from the container onto the mini as this is the surest way to
get to much and make a mess! Also - in many cases using to much glue
results in weak joints, not stronger joints.
> Why not just spend 3 months preparing and building a single
> plastics regiment box. NO THANKS! I will happily stick to removing from
> sprues, cleaning up the parts, building and *then* putting on the primer
> so that it covers only the parts and spots it needs to and also covers up
> the glue from assemble as well.
Again you state that my method takes longer? Where's the proof? I can
do some above average paint jobs on entire squads of figures in an amout
of time that I find acceptable. (I can do 10 - 20 figures like Ultra
Marines or Silver Skulls that don't require a huge amount of blending
work on every single figure, with lots of detail on each figure and
nicely flocked bases in a single weekend.)
Also - if you have glue leaking/oozing out of the joints onto the parts
of your mini that are supposed to be painted, your method leaves a lot to
be desired.
>
> Why go to all the trouble and insanity of using masking...Just makes the
> process that much more lengthy and annoying...I will continue to use
> masking to paint heavy duty design and layered detail on my larger models,
> but can't see the point in using it the way you've described
> pre-assembly...
>
> Avatar
>
Again, you proceed from assumption, don't offer any alternatives
methods, and don't provide any reasons as to why your method is faster
and provides superior results?
By doing basic assembly (example I glue the legs and torso of a
plastic marine together, and then glue them to the base)and then masking
areas that will have to be glued later on (such as the shoulder joints,
the head neck area, and the contact points for the shoulder pads), while
leaving off until I'm done the parts that will prevent me from getting to
details or increase the difficulty of painting I save a load of time AND
get great results
1. By removing all the mini parts from the sprue before primering (and
in some cases base coating (ultra marine blue, or spacewolves gray for
example) I don't have to touch up all those sprue marks after
primering/painting
2. By NOT assembling them completely before I paint - my painting goes
easier, faster, and gives better results (no unprimered or unpainted
areas showing on my minis, no areas lacking in detail simply because I
couldn't get to them with a brush - remember my strategy?)
3. By NOT having to scrape the areas I'm going to glue together on my
joints I get the following benefits.
A. Superior joint strenght from a clean surface to surface gluing.
B. Don't loose time to repainting any accidental damage from scraping.
C. Save a boat load of time later by not having to repair and repaint
minis broken due to poorly glued joints.
Net result - I paint to above average or greater levels of detail in less
time, glue my minis together with superior joint strength, and spend far
less time on touch ups and repairs.
Mean while you offer us - assemble (with joints that apparently
leak glue) the whole mini, primer (which is often a pain or sometimes
impossible to get even over the entire figure when there are now a bunch
of small but visible crevases) and then paint which is now a more time
consuming process thanks to the added difficulties of getting into said
small cravases - not to mention having to cover up the leaked glue.
Net result - more time and difficulty to get the same level of detail if
at all possible (remember the point of my painting process is to avoid
unpainted areas and a general lack of detail) - possibly weaker joints,
and the need to deal with leaked glue, and a higher possiblity of yet
more time needlessly spent making repairs and touchups that could have
been avoided.
[PLEASE NOTE: I have seen plenty of minis painted to excellent levels of
detail using the method Avatar describes - but the poster was wondering
about alternatives & masking which is what I posted about. I'm not
knocking the assemble first method - but the fact that Avatar's reply
didn't help the poster or add anything useful to the discussion - just
another sort of long winded 'your method sucks' reply without any helpful
alternatives.]
Avatar, I'm glad if your method works for you, but I take issue when you
opinion that my methods take longer and/or give poorer results. This is
especially true when you offer no proof to back your arguments, and make
incorrect assumptions about my methods. Add this to that the fact that
you didn't help the original poster with his questions, or provide any
alternative that addressed his 'masking how to' questions, and you might
have a clue as to why I didn't find your post very enlightened.
Put simply, Art Masking Fluid is a masking tool that saves time and gives
equal or better masking results than trying to use small pieces of
masking tape (which is a pain to cut into small patches of the right size
and shape, can be a pain to place, and sometimes dries up and comes off)
or using playdough (which has tendancy to fall off the mini at the worst
times - like in the middle of primering) or oil-based clay which leaves
an oil film on the mini - so much for getting good paint or glue
adhesion.
I pointed it out to the poster because he asked about alternative paint
and assembly methods and because AMF is NOT commonly associated with
model and mini assembling - I have yet to ever see an article about using
a thin latex material as a masking material in any Modeling/Miniatures
painting magizine. If you some alternative method that works well, by
all means, post it.