Painting & modeling tips.
Myrmidon
I've snagged a number of good ideas on painting and modeling from
this news group,
and I thought I'd return the favor. If you have any more ideas, tips,
etc, please add them
to this thread. Thanks.
1. Pinning joints, I know that a pin vise (sp?) can be used to make
holes for the pins, but an easier way is if you have a Dremel tool.
There are actual tiny drill bits for these that
are great and can be used on plastic and pewter figures with ease. They
aren't commonly seen in hardware stores, but they are available. I've
never tried a pin vise on pewter figures, but I imagine that it would be
a pain in the fanny - i.e., hard to get the bit to go in straight, etc.
2. Paints - invariably they always have the bad habit of having all
the pigment settle to the bottom of the container with all the binder
floating at the top. Rather than have your arm fall off from excessive
shaking, or making a mess by stirring with a toothpick, etc, try this.
Put in 2-3 copper BB's (yes, BB gun ammo here in the states.) You can
also use small metal bearings, but I'd be concerned that they might
rust in water based paints. ( I haven't had any problems with the copper
coated BBs so far.) It's a lot more effective when you shake up your
paints with the BBs in it. It does a much better job of re-mixing the
pigment with the binder.
3. Cutting Boards. I use a glass sheet as both a cutting board and
painting pallet. You can often times get a decently think piece of
glass cut to size and have the edges beveled (rounded down to remove
sharp edges and corners) at a glass shop. If you can't get the edges
beveled, then cover the edges with heavy-duty duct tape to keep from
getting cut by the glass. Mine has one side sand blasted to give a
slight milky color to the pallet for contrast (mix your paints on the
smooth side.) The advantage of a glass painting pallet is that with
acrylic paints, you can simply take a single edged razor blade and
easily scrape the old paint off - especially if you do it within a day
or two of using the paint. This saves having to buy more of the
disposable pallets, or having to scrounge for more expendable surfaces
to paint on. It also makes for a great cutting surface. I use mine for
cutting out individual decals, trimming flashing and sprue bits off of
figures, etc. No more nicked up work surfaces or ticked off family
members due to gouges in furniture, tables, etc.
WARNING!!! Broken glass and unbeveled glass is extremely sharp, so do
be careful. (Common sense is a misnomer. It should be called obvious
sense, cause it's obvious, but most days it sure isn't common.)
4. Play-Doh, a painter's best friend. I like to glue metal to metal or
plastic to plastic when I can. I don't like gluing things to painted
surfaces as it makes a weak bond and easily breaks off. The problem is
how can one paint/primer most of a model without getting paint/primer in
the joint holes and on the posts, or on the flat surfaces that are to be
glued together? For example, I have a set of Hormagaunts that I want to
do a lot of detail work on the head and body before I glue in the upper
arms which would be a pain to try and paint around. However I don't
want paint and primer in the armholes and on the posts to be glued
together. My solution was to cover the area in question with Play-Doh,
an inexpensive modeling clay. It has the consistency of bread dough,
and is very easy to work with while holding it's shape, and it's easy to
remove when you're done. It works great for protecting areas that you
don't want covered with spray primer. You can use almost any non air
drying clay, but I prefer Play-Doh because it has a minimum of oil in
it. If you must use a heavily oil based clay, you will need to take a
Q-tip (medical swab) and put a bit of cleaning solution on it to clean
the area where the oil based clay was. (I use a small amount of
Fantastic - household cleaner.) If you don't clean the joint, the glue
may not form a good bond.
Well, enough of my ramblings, hope this is of some use to you folks out
there. Thanks for all the past ideas. Please add any of your own to
this thread and pass on the knowledge. ?
Later, Myrmidon
"Vortex Missile?!? What vortex mis…"
taliesynkp
Blank Dave
>never tried a pin vise on pewter figures, but I imagine that it would be
>a pain in the fanny - i.e., hard to get the bit to go in straight, etc.
Not as hard as you might think. Take a modeling knife, jab the tip in to
the spot you want the hole to go, spin it a few times to make a small
indentation, then drill away. (kind of like using an awl (SP???)) It's
just time consuming, and I wouldn't trust my dremel with my smaller bits,
like my 0.0135, I have hairs thicker than that.
Blank Dave
At this time of year I would like to wish to all Peace on Earth and Good
Will Towards All Men. Too bad that doesn't seem to be catching.
Remember drinking and driving is like using AOL, just plain DUMB!
Myrmidon
flocking and basing figures, etc, later when I have some more time.
taliesynkp wrote:
> Excellent advice. Thank You.
Myrmidon
More modeling and painting tips.
Well, here's some more modeling and painting ideas that I hope folks on this
group can use.
1. Top heavy figures. Some smart camper mentioned that he didn't like the
round bases that came with the Hormagaunts because they are top heavy and
tend to fall over forward a lot, so he put longer cavalry bases on them. I
don't know that I'd want the full length of the base, but you could
certainly cut it down a bit and still have a decent base without the mini
falling over all the time. The other option is to glue a weight to the
bottom of the stand. Metal washers are ideal for this (heavy, thin, and
flat) and have the added bonus of being useful if you have a magnetic sheet
at the bottom of your figure storage case.
2. Trees. Trees add a lot to the tabletop, but they can cost an arm and a
leg. If you don't mind doing a bit of work, there are great tree sets
available from Woodland Scenics. The medium sized trees come 14 to a
package for around $12 and the large trees come 7 to a package for about the
same price. Both the medium and the large trees look good with 40K / WHFB
figures. The sets come with medium and darker course turf to be glued to
the tree trunks once you have them twisted into the shape desired. You will
need to choose your own glue, as the set doesn't come with any. You can use
Elmers (PVA) or I personally use 3M spray adhesive - it's like rubber cement
that you can spray on. If you want a fuller look to the trees you can glue
lichen on instead of the turf. ( I like the turf just fine myself, though
they do shed loose bits for a while.) You can also get the lichen & turf
in odd colors or simply spray paint some lichen to colors of your own
choosing and then glue it to the trunks for that alien/chaos world look.
The trees have decent plastic bases, which make it easy to fix them to
larger bases for small forest etc. (More on basing later in this post) You
can find Woodland Scenics in most Hobby/Railroad stores here in the States.
I don't think they have a web site. :( But you can contact them directly
at:
Woodland Scenics
P.O. Box 98
Linn Creek MO 65052
United States
(No phone number listed, sorry. You might call information and ask though.)
3. Basing trees. There are a lot of options for basing scenery and
landscaping. I'll try to list some pros and cons.
Foam core board. Pros; light weight and not overly expensive, decent
strength for it's weight, relatively easy to cut into a variety of shapes
and add details with simple hand tools. Cons; it's thicker than I like
(1/4 of an inch - 7mm) and still bendable or breakable if treated in a
rough fashion. I also recommend sealing this with Gesso, an acrylic sealant
available from art supply stores, before you paint on it.
Masonite. This thin wood product is excellent for terrain basing. Pros;
very sturdy for building on, stands up to a lot of detailing and painting
work being done on it. Cons; more expensive, harder to work with (you
really need access to a jig saw to do decent work with Masonite, or you can
use a jewelry's style hack saw to do slow curving cuts,) heavier to
transport, and can warp if not properly sealed, or stored in a damp
location. It's also thicker than I like (3/8 of an inch - 5mm being a good
thickness to work with) because the mini's tilt when they're on the edge of
the scenery. Just a personal thing, but part of the game is the aesthetics
- then again, maybe I'm just picky. As a cheap source, you might check
your local lumberyard and see if they have any scrap Masonite laying around
- my local yard lets me have the odd pieces for free. If not free, you can
likely get the scraps at a discount.
Bristol board and/or Mat board. Used to do some graphic design work on, or
as a boarder around most paintings under glass, these materials can also be
used to base things. Available in art supply stores and painting frame
shops. Pros; easily shaped with a sharp hobby knife, thin enough that the
base doesn't stick out like a sore thumb on the tabletop. Cons; can be
expensive depending on the material used, thin - so won't take a load of
weight like Masonite, subject to warpage, and it's relatively fragile. This
is a good alternative if you are looking for something thin to work with and
don't have access to a lot of tools. If you are going to paint on it
(likely) I recommend that you do the following. There's an artist's
material called "Gesso" it's an acrylic paint used as a base coat to seal
canvas before oil painting on it (oil paint eats canvas - in the old days
they used stinky rabbit skin glue.) You need to coat both sides of the base
once you have it cut to size. Paint one side, and let it dry out totally
before you do the other side. Leave the edges unsealed for the time being
as it will let the moisture out of the paper material. Once the first side
is dry, then paint the other side - still leaving the edges unsealed. Once
both sides have dried, if there is any warpage, place the base between two
sheets of tinfoil, wax paper, etc to protect your other surfaces and place a
few flat heavy books, etc on top of the base. Let it continue to dry (may
take 2-5 days depending on the humidity etc.) under the weights. Once it's
dry and there's no warpage, seal the edges with a sparing coat of gesso -
don't add a lot of water to the gesso at this point. Once this is done,
you're free to attach trees, buildings, whatever. Just remember not to put
to much weight on it. This is good if you aren't transporting your terrain
around a lot, or can do so in a protected box.
Note for people with Jig saws. Some genius came up with a great new blade.
It's twisted so that the teeth point 360 degrees. You can make cuts in any
direction without having to turn the piece and with much less chance of
breaking the blade like in the old days when you couldn't make 90 degree
turns without drilling a hole in the piece for the blade to turn inside of
first. Yeaahh!
Plastic! My favorite! Pros; very sturdy for it's thickness, easy to paint
and detail, resistant to warping. Cons; more expensive, can be harder to
cut to shape. I love plastic, it stands up to abuse, comes in a variety of
thickness' and can handle a lot of painting, detailing and transporting.
You will need a sharp hobby knife to score the plastic for straight cuts,
and possibly a small hack saw to make curved edges. It's also thin enough
at a reasonable strength that models don't look to unsightly standing 1/2 on
and 1/2 off the terrain piece. There are two sources of plastic (both can
be gotten from Hobby/Railroading stores) that I like. (Got other sources,
please let me know.)
PLASTRUCT INC
1020 WALLACE AVE.
ROWLAND HGHTS, CA 91748
UNITED STATES
Tel: 818-912-7016
Fax: 818-965-2036
Evergreen
Scale Models Inc.
Kirkland WA 98034
United States
(Again, no web sites, doh! When will these guys get it together and get on
the web? You might also try checking out http://www.toydirectory.com for
more direct leads to other suppliers of similar materials.)
4. Blasted Forests. I see drawings of burnt and blasted forests time and
again in Imperial guard pictures, but GW never puts them on their tables, or
shows how to make' em. Dropped the ball on that one. If you have a
fireplace or wood burning stove, then you're good to go (I have a wood
stove.) If not, you can use an old 9 x 13 pan or pick one up cheep at the
grocery store. You will need a hot fire source - either the fire place, or
a small blow torch will do. NOTE: I AM NOT ENCOURAGING YOU TO PLAY WITH
FIRE!!! (This means you Beavis & Butthead Jr.) If you are not an adult,
get adult supervision. Get some twigs and small branches the size you want
to use for your trees. Cut off the bottoms first, so you have a flat
surface to glue to your base. Use the fireplace or the torch to scorch the
top and/or sides of your stumps to give that blackened forest fire look. A
hot fire is better for this as it makes charcoal out of the ends of your
stumps and logs. Once you have finished, you will need to seal them so they
don't leave charcoal blackening all over everything else later. I use
Polyurethane Varnish in very light coats to seal mine. If you put on to
heavy a coat at one time, you will loose details, and the trunks will look
really shiny. As an inferior alternative, you can try spraying the logs
with hair spray. (It's an old artist's trick for sealing pastel drawings.)
Again, don't go to heavy on any coat, multiple light coats are better. Once
the trunks are fully dry, you can glue them (use a generous helping of epoxy
and paint over it when it's dry) or nail/screw them onto the base depending
on your basing material choice.
5. Flocking bases. Here are some techniques I use. I'm not fond of using
loads of flocking on my minis for the simple reason that unless you use
heavy duty glue, some of the flocking always sheds, leaving a perpetual
green snow storm behind (sure to tick of Moms and spouces/girlfriends
everywhere.) The problem with heavy duty glue is that if you get it on the
mini and not just on the base, you have a permanent grass covered model.
When I do put flocking on, I use a watered down Elmers glue (PVA) that can
be washed off before it dries if I get it on the wrong places. As an
alternative, I highly recommend the following. Simply mix fine sand (I get
small amounts free from the local lumberyard - never hurts to ask) with
Gesso (see above) and paint it on to the base after the figure is glued on.
Once this dries, you can paint it the desired color, put washes on it, dry
brush it, and highlight it to the desired detail level. The real beauty of
this is that it never sheds, and you can put a very light amount of flocking
on it for the final touch.
6. Table tops. You can get a variety of wood surfaces to use as a gaming
table. I painted my table with two shades of green spray paint. You can
obviously use as many colors as you like. I used spray paint for a simple
reason. I make my hills out of Styrofoam, and then coat them with Gesso.
Once they're dry, I simply spray paint them using the same colors as the
table top is painted with and they match perfectly. In addition, if the
hills are damaged, I simply re-Gesso the area and spray paint again, presto
instant repair. The other bonus is you can change the whole color scheme of
your table top, add roads, etc, simply for the price of a few cans of spray
paint.
7. Making grasslands. If you aren't aware, Woodland Scenics makes a
variety of colored bristles for creating weeds and grassy clumps. Simply
make your desired base. To attach the grass clumps I use a hot glue gun and
poke in the bristles before it cools. You can add rocks or railroad
ballast for added detail with the glue gun. Once the glue has cooled, you
can paint over any of the glue that shows with normal acrylic paint. Just
be sure to space the clumps far enough apart that you can stand up your
minis between them (and think about those large critters with bigger bases.)
Note, when making grasslands or forest stands, I like to make a lot of small
sections. (1-3 trees and maybe some small rocks/boulders) When we play, we
simply place small tree sections for example in groups and say that any area
surrounded by trees is forest. (Use common err.. obvious sense about what
is 'surrounded' ok?) This allows for decent sized forested areas without
going broke on terrain costs or making it hard to place and move figures in
those areas.
Well, hope this useful to folks. Thanks again for letting me sponge good
ideas off the news group.
Later, Myrmidon "the relentless"
Myrmidon
they're free too! Another case of "obvious sense" the totally escaped me. Time
to go scrounge in the small creek bed behind my house as soon as the weather
improves. I love the internet.
"Pepin Sarked L. Ordoña" wrote:
> > It's a lot more effective when you shake up your
> > paints with the BBs in it. It does a much better job of re-mixing the
> > pigment with the binder.
>
> BB's rust... use small pebbles instead...
>
> --
> "Battle doesn't need a purpose, the battle is its own purpose. You don't
> ask why a plague spreads or a field burns. Don't ask why I fight."
Blank Dave
>flat) and have the added bonus of being useful if you have a magnetic sheet
>at the bottom of your figure storage case.
Or better yet, a nickle. Aroud here a metal washer costs ya $.05 + tax, but
a nickle cost $.05. Sounds like nit picking, but if you want to weigh down
your entire army...that damned fast adds up. (plus I find nickles sizes are
more consistant than the washers)
Our Man Rishar
> 1. Top heavy figures. Some smart camper mentioned that he didn't like the
> round bases that came with the Hormagaunts because they are top heavy and
> tend to fall over forward a lot, so he put longer cavalry bases on them. I
> don't know that I'd want the full length of the base, but you could
> certainly cut it down a bit and still have a decent base without the mini
> falling over all the time. The other option is to glue a weight to the
> bottom of the stand. Metal washers are ideal for this (heavy, thin, and
> flat) and have the added bonus of being useful if you have a magnetic sheet
> at the bottom of your figure storage case.
Another thought: anything small and heavy that happens to be laying
around can be used. You know that big jar of pennies sitting around the
house that you're never going to spend? They fit almost perfectly in
the bottom of an unslotted base, the kind that comes with plastic
figures without slots. One drop of superglue and you're in business.
While non-magnetic, they're even cheaper than washers, and you're bound
to have some laying around in the car and under the couch.
> 2. Trees. Trees add a lot to the tabletop, but they can cost an arm and a
> leg. If you don't mind doing a bit of work, there are great tree sets
> available from Woodland Scenics. The medium sized trees come 14 to a
> package for around $12 and the large trees come 7 to a package for about the
Excellent set, for those of you who've never purchased one. There are
some other neato tree-type sets from Woodland Scenics, too, including
trees and treestumps in white metal (trees aren't recommended because of
their topheavy nature, but we know how to deal with that, don't we?).
One word of caution: these things lose flock faster than Kevin Costner
loses hair, especially when they're being bumped around. Get some of
that hair spray, the "ultra-hold-like-fucking-iron" stuff, and lay a few
coats on. The flock won't look any different, but it'll ultra-hold like
(you guessed it) fucking iron when it's dry.
> I don't think they have a web site. :( But you can contact them directly
> at:
Any model railroad shop ought to stock a good supply of this stuff.
It's pretty much what they're intended for. If you enjoy good terrain
and you haven't visited a model railroad shop by now, it's time you did.
> Note for people with Jig saws. Some genius came up with a great new blade.
> It's twisted so that the teeth point 360 degrees. You can make cuts in any
> direction without having to turn the piece and with much less chance of
> breaking the blade like in the old days when you couldn't make 90 degree
> turns without drilling a hole in the piece for the blade to turn inside of
> first. Yeaahh!
If you're as lazy as I am, I implore you to purchase a Dremel. Cutting
up bases is just another job this fine tool can be used for. Owning a
Dremel has truly changed my life, almost as much as owning a Gerber
multi-tool...but that's a story for another day.
> 4. Blasted Forests. I see drawings of burnt and blasted forests time and
Instead of starting an actual fire for the utmost in realism, simply
using a light black drybrushing on normal trees might be a better idea
here. Just a thought.
> 5. Flocking bases. Here are some techniques I use. I'm not fond of using
And now, for the Rishar Method:
First, paint the edges (and only the edges) of the bases whatever color
you want. The color the top will eventually be is sufficient, as is
flat black. Your choice. When that's fully dry, paint the top of the
base in a color matching the flock (or whatever) you'll be using. Use a
thick coat of paint. IMMEDIATELY after applying the paint, dip the mini
in a tub of flock, shake off the excess, and allow to dry. After it's
all dry, knock it a few times to shake off the last few loose bits and
hit the minis with the spray varnish. The flock will be cemented on
quite nicely. It sounds fragile, but trust me...it's not.
> 6. Table tops. You can get a variety of wood surfaces to use as a gaming
If you want to really go "all the way" with your table, I'd suggest
constructing a sand table. It's not all that difficult. Start with a
bigass board (not plywood) the size you want the table to be.
Screw/glue/tape/whatever more boards on the sides to form walls for it.
They need to come up a few inches. Fill 'er up with sand, and that's
it. You can sit it on the floor if you like, but I'd suggest supporting
it on a pair of sawhorses, available at any DIY store (as is the wood
and the sand). For a game, wet the sand down with a spray bottle of
water and shape it into whatever form you want. Then, spray paint it
whatever color you want. Tah-dah!
For storage, scoop and dump the sand out into a suitable receptacle (not
the bathtub), fold up the sawhorses, and lean the table against a wall.
An added benefit of this is that trees and such don't need to be based
anymore -- you can just stick them in the sand.
> Note, when making grasslands or forest stands, I like to make a lot of small
> sections. (1-3 trees and maybe some small rocks/boulders) When we play, we
> simply place small tree sections for example in groups and say that any area
> surrounded by trees is forest. (Use common err.. obvious sense about what
> is 'surrounded' ok?) This allows for decent sized forested areas without
> going broke on terrain costs or making it hard to place and move figures in
> those areas.
We use this concept as well. Visibly marking the border of the forest
in some way is unsightly, but a good idea to avoid arguments. We
normally play it as an invisble border, extending 2" from each tree, so
that the trees can be spaced out far enough apart to allow movement
through them.
One final thought: check out those pet stores, too. Most of the stuff
is crap, but you'll find some real head-turners at pretty good prices,
especially the aquarium stuff. I've got a bigass resin triceratops
skull I picked up on sale for $5 that ROCKS. Hell, it even came
painted. You can't beat that with a stick.
-- Deej: The skull kicks ass! It kicks ASS! Uhh, yeah. Heh-heh,
heh-heh.
Pepin Sarked L. Ordoña
> the pigment settle to the bottom of the container with all the binder
> floating at the top. Rather than have your arm fall off from excessive
> shaking, or making a mess by stirring with a toothpick, etc, try this.
> Put in 2-3 copper BB's (yes, BB gun ammo here in the states.) You can
> also use small metal bearings, but I'd be concerned that they might
> rust in water based paints. ( I haven't had any problems with the copper
Nazdreg89
modeling:
when you want to flock something paint it the color (approx.) of the flock then
dip it in/sprinkle it with flocking. the flocking will stick to the wet paint
and when the paint dries you're done so no screwing around with painting it
then gluing flock on.
i base my trees (the do-it-yourself bags of trees in the earlier post, but mine
are pine trees which are 36 for $18 or something equaly ridiculously cheap) on
a piece of foamcore that represents the size of the forest in question. the
foamcore edge is the edge of the forest so there's no screwing around with 'i
thought he was in the forest so...' and other crap. i cut out the foamcore,
glue the tree bases on, spray paint the whole thing, sprinkle it with flock,
then glue the trees to the bases. easy and looks good.
-------------
Lucca Ironskull prays for his codex.
taliesynkp
were more of this type of post and less of the "your a flaming weenie" posts.
Here my two cents.
How I make army banners
I use a program called Snapshot. You can get a shareware version off the net.
Boot snapshot. Then boot dark omen or shadow of the horned rat.
Go to the roster screen then use snapshot to swipe the banners It saves them
as gif, or bitmaps so you can edit them if you want.
chris g
find locally and is usually really thin or really thick.
cgoo...@ipass.net
Myrmidon wrote in message <3697E35A...@bright.net>...
>Hello,
>
> I've snagged a number of good ideas on painting and modeling from
>this news group,
>and I thought I'd return the favor. If you have any more ideas, tips,
>etc, please add them
>to this thread. Thanks.
>
>1. Pinning joints, I know that a pin vise (sp?) can be used to make
>holes for the pins, but an easier way is if you have a Dremel tool.
>There are actual tiny drill bits for these that
>are great and can be used on plastic and pewter figures with ease. They
>aren't commonly seen in hardware stores, but they are available. I've
>never tried a pin vise on pewter figures, but I imagine that it would be
>a pain in the fanny - i.e., hard to get the bit to go in straight, etc.
>
>2. Paints - invariably they always have the bad habit of having all
>the pigment settle to the bottom of the container with all the binder
>floating at the top. Rather than have your arm fall off from excessive
>shaking, or making a mess by stirring with a toothpick, etc, try this.
>Put in 2-3 copper BB's (yes, BB gun ammo here in the states.) You can
>also use small metal bearings, but I'd be concerned that they might
>rust in water based paints. ( I haven't had any problems with the copper
>coated BBs so far.) It's a lot more effective when you shake up your
>paints with the BBs in it. It does a much better job of re-mixing the
>pigment with the binder.
>
Nazdreg89
>
here's how i made my ork WAAAGH!!! banner:
take warboss and place on scanner
scan
take box of Die Siedler von Catan
scan setting sun
use setting sun for background
add glyphs
play with texturing to get funky look
print
i love my scanner.
RLobinske
>>
>
If you can find it, lead sheet is one of the best materials around for making
banners, flags and similar things. You used to be able to get good sheet from
the foil covering on wine bottles, though the lead has been dropped now.
Searching through various foil type covers, you can still find reasonable
flexible materials (you don't want something krinkly like aluminum foil).
Simply cut it out, gently bend to shape for a flowing look, glue in place and
paint.
An alternative is to use epoxy putty. Cut open a heavy plastic food bag and
line the inside with petroleum jelly. Mix up the putty and put a ball in the
bag and roll it out with something like a brass rod or hobby knife handle, you
can thin good putty down to about the thickness of heavy paper. Allow the
putty to partially set up (time varies with the brand used, Duro putty you wait
about 15 minutes, Milliput, a couple hours) so that is somewhat stiff and no
longer tacky. Cut out and glue in place with CA and shape as desired. This
technique can also be used to add cloaks or other flowing clothes to figures.
Remember to wash the putty with detergent after it has fully set to remove
residual petroleum jelly.
Blank Dave
and
>line the inside with petroleum jelly. Mix up the putty and put a ball in
the
>bag and roll it out with something like a brass rod or hobby knife handle,
you
>can thin good putty down to about the thickness of heavy paper. Allow the
>putty to partially set up (time varies with the brand used, Duro putty you
wait
>about 15 minutes, Milliput, a couple hours) so that is somewhat stiff and
no
>longer tacky. Cut out and glue in place with CA and shape as desired.
This
>technique can also be used to add cloaks or other flowing clothes to
figures.
>Remember to wash the putty with detergent after it has fully set to remove
>residual petroleum jelly.
Now that's a neat idea, but why not use KY jelly instead?
Tom Bryant
Nazdreg89 wrote:
>
> >How I make army banners
> >
>
I though Lucca Ironskull sleeps with the squats. You mean he didn't get
"rubbed out"?
Tom Bryant
Blank Dave
remove
>>>residual petroleum jelly.
>>
>>Now that's a neat idea, but why not use KY jelly instead?
>>
>>Blank Dave
>
>really don't want to know why anyone would <g>.
But you associate Vaseline to model building?
Well, I've heard that petroleum jelly can react funny to some resins and
plastics (I repeat heard, from sculptors and other builders), and KY is
water soluble, making it easier to clean up afterwards. Con is it's costs a
little more, but ti washes off much easier.
I've used KY jelly on a conversion myself. I'm converting a Lum to an
Asriel and needed to build her a new shirt. I got the great idea to make it
of paper mache (orginally I was going to make it out of bondo, like Mike
James suggested (look him up on the Gremlins in the Garage site), using
Vaseline. He was to one who warned me of not using it. He suggested using
a water soluble lubrecant). Well I didn't want teh mache to stick to the
kit, so I used KY jelly. Much nicer easier to clean up, and didn't leave
behind a slippery coating.
RLobinske
RLobinske
>>really don't want to know why anyone would <g>.
>
Well, I have used it as a cheap, general purpose grease on the worktop for
years.
>Well, I've heard that petroleum jelly can react funny to some resins and
>plastics (I repeat heard, from sculptors and other builders), and KY is
>water soluble, making it easier to clean up afterwards. Con is it's costs a
>little more, but ti washes off much easier.
True, it can react with some resins, but it does work fine on the epoxy putty
and you won't be passing much off unto the kit base (not that GW puts out
anything in resin). I understand the waster soluble part, I am mainly
concerned about the more watery consistancy. Rolling out the epoxy putty does
push the release around. Vaseline is very thick and stays in place well, I
don't know how well KY would hold, but I may try it next time. BTW, using the
entire process, including the petroleum jelly, came from Shep Paines "Building
and Painting Scale Figures".
abdul 666
>
> >>Because I normally don't associate KY jelly with model building <g>, and I
> >>really don't want to know why anyone would <g>.
> >
Nothing to do with the 'giant penis' modelling thread, of course...