Windowsill photography
Andy O'Neill
Picture is worth a thousand words and all that:
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/Windowsill_1.jpg
Result:
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/Windowsill_2.jpg
You're probably best choosing a time when there's some cloud to
diffuse the sunlight.
The reflector removes shadows.
The magazine isn't accidental but may not be necessary with all
cameras.
If mine is flat on the same surface as the model then it messes up the
autofocus.
On the edge of a thin magazine and it's fine.
That distance between the magazine edge and the figure is deliberate.
No tripod.
The blue background is not necessary if you have a lot of light but
the figure will be dark without it if it's a dull day. It's snowing
outside right now.
I manipulated the picture using picasa which is free off google.
Aside from cropping all I did was use the tuning tab to correct
colours.
Click on the dropper, click on a white part of the picture.
Do this before you crop.
Myrmidon
26g2000yqo.googlegroups.com>, andy...@googlemail.com says...
> Here's how to take a photo without any lights.
> Picture is worth a thousand words and all that:
> http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/Windowsill_1.jpg
>
> Result:
> http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/Windowsill_2.jpg
>
> You're probably best choosing a time when there's some cloud to
> diffuse the sunlight.
I've gotten some very nice color shots with the 'GE Reveal' blue-
white bulbs as I usually have to shoot indoors in the basement. To many
critters make it difficult to set up elsewhere.
> The reflector removes shadows.
> The magazine isn't accidental but may not be necessary with all
> cameras.
Not sure what it's doing for you in the 2nd pic?
> If mine is flat on the same surface as the model then it messes up the
> autofocus.
> On the edge of a thin magazine and it's fine.
Are we talking placing the model slightly under the edge of the
magazine, or the camera?
> That distance between the magazine edge and the figure is deliberate.
> No tripod.
Ah ok.
> The blue background is not necessary if you have a lot of light but
> the figure will be dark without it if it's a dull day. It's snowing
> outside right now.
As another suggestion, you might actually try making your tone
gradient slightly darker in one of your top corners. I don't know why,
but the human eye concludes that there's greater depth of field when it
registers that irregularity. It's an old painter's trick.
>
> I manipulated the picture using picasa which is free off google.
> Aside from cropping all I did was use the tuning tab to correct
> colours.
> Click on the dropper, click on a white part of the picture.
> Do this before you crop.
I'd be interested in seeing a side by side 'before & after' type
of image.
Thanks,
Myr
>
--
Ah, he's a physicist - he's unlikely to injure himself with
stuff he deals with every day and if he does *shrug*, its
only a physicist...
- Tim Fitzmaurice
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Andy O'Neill
news:MPG.259b5ef6c...@news.eternal-september.org...
> As another suggestion, you might actually try making your tone
> gradient slightly darker in one of your top corners. I don't know why,
> but the human eye concludes that there's greater depth of field when it
> registers that irregularity. It's an old painter's trick.
I thought that was just skies.
They usually get lighter towards the horizon so making the two top corners a
darker blue makes the horizon look lighter and hence improves recession by
contrast.
Art is only an occasional hobby for me so I could well be wrong.
The background is a gradient - I just didn't position it so you really
notice.
That's cos I'm rubbish and lazy.
>>
>> I manipulated the picture using picasa which is free off google.
>> Aside from cropping all I did was use the tuning tab to correct
>> colours.
>> Click on the dropper, click on a white part of the picture.
>> Do this before you crop.
>
> I'd be interested in seeing a side by side 'before & after' type
> of image.
Okaydoke.
Next time.
I think that photo taken in just sunlight looks warmer than those other ones
I took using my actulite.
I think my camera works better with more light.
Plus I'm rubbish at colour correction.
Clicking on the dropper thingummy is my limit.
Not sure I posted them here.
Anyhow, these were taken with artificial lighting.
The task light above the camera and camera on magazine.
If you've already seen them with the groundwork complete then don't bother
clickin.
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_1_F.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_1_S.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_2_F.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_2_S.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_3_F.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_3_S.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_4_F.jpg
http://i523.photobucket.com/albums/w352/aon14/WFB/Clanrats_4_s.jpg
Playa
Hey,
On Dec 23, 7:23 am, "Andy O'Neill" <aon14nocannedm...@lycos.co.uk>
wrote:
> these were taken with artificial lighting
On my monitor, the yellow/ buckskin areas look ace.
The rest seems quite ratty. ;- )
Fess up - are those card bases?
Playa
Andy O'Neill
news:b2bcd419-4182-4132...@m25g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
Hey,
Playa
Thanks.
The yellow is the Foundry ochre triad but with a final highlight of white +
light ochre..
The bases are plasticard glued to 1p coins.
I use magnetic basing.
Vinyl in movement trays and toolboxes, steel paper or steel ( in pennies )
on bases.
Most of my skirmish moderns are directly on 1p or 2p pieces.
No slottas in 20mm figures.
With GW stuff.
I used to glue the coins to the bottom of GW bases.
With the plastics ones I needed to fill the void to have something to glue
the coins to.
So I then started hacking the sides off and gluing the gw base top flat on
the coin.
Both of these methods are a pain.
Now I cut 19mm squares out plasticard and glue them with uhu or PVA to the
coin.
The figure then glues easily to the plasticard and you can see where the
bases end for templates.
Playa
Hey,
On Dec 24, 6:37 am, "Andy O'Neill" <aon14nocannedm...@lycos.co.uk>
wrote:
> Most of my skirmish moderns are directly on 1p or 2p pieces.
The coin nearest 25mm dia in the States is our quarter dollar.
Fortunately, 1in dia washers cost much less than 25 cents.
They're 0.4mm oversize, and so glue to Slottas nicely.
They make great gifts for players with Leaping Gaunts!
At least, until a cure can be found . . .
Playa