Creating Flesh Wash--Ideas for different washes, colors?
Berto
date was Spring, 87). Besides an interesting article on "Balrog, Encounter
at Khazad-.Dum" which is the story of the great battle in the Lord of the
rings in the keep (for those that have read the book and seen the movie--how
things come in full circle), I have had a problem in mixing colors to create
the desired effect on my miniatures. However, in this article they describe
how to create flesh wash which, for me has been extremely difficult to pick
up at the local gaming stores. I would like to share this bit of knowledge
from them when they wrote that they do and I would like to share this
knowledge to others in this "new and fascinating game"(this was in 87)(which
I still heartily agree about the excitement of the game).
"Painting is not different from metal models. An undercoat of white paint is
recommended on the box back, but it is not important as with metal models.
1.(my numbering). A good bone colour can be mixed with from one part of
Citadel Colour Bronzed flesh to one part yellow, adding white if you wish.
Remember, old bones aren't usually white but a yellowish brown. Once it is
dry apply a wash to pick out all of the detail.
2.(my numbering) To prepare a wash, mixing brown and black paint and adding
water to a consistency of dirty washing-up water. Paint and observe how the
mix is picked up in the skeletons' eye sockets, ribs, and other joints."
I wanted to share this old but I believe some good advice for those people
who cannot find flesh wash (like me), and the tips of painting a good solid
beautiful detail piece.
If people have suggestions for difficult or types of effects using different
colors, I certainly would and maybe others would like to share the vast
knowledge.
Again, thank you for allowing me to add (if you find this important) to the
knowledge of a beautiful detailed army, and hopefully imparting some of that
information to others.
One more item, I am truly sorry for some of my comments in the past. I am
new at this, and in 5 years, never been flamed. I know it was for a stupid
question that seemed to sound as if I was trying to get around the rules of
the game (Tyranid question). It was my mistake to take it seriously, to just
let it go and not answer back and to read the manuals more carefully as some
of you have told me in a very kind and generous way.
Anyway, would certainly like some input in adding mixtures to enhance my
figures. Oh, and one more thing, the Citadel bottles, in my experience, dry
up to quickly once I open them. do I turn them upside down, clean
thoroughly, change them to different cap bottles. Maybe this is my problem
but would also like to get some ideas. I paint the color of the paint on
top of the black bottle to get me an idea of what it is I am pulling out,
because I got tired of going through 20 to 30 bottles to find the color I
need. Again, any suggestions, would really be appreciated.
Again, thanks for any feedback. They will be welcomed most graciously, both
good and flamed. I do not like to stay just lurking around and reading
posts. So I will try to take the heat.
Berto
Robert Singers
"Berto" wrote
> I wanted to share this old but I believe some good advice for those people
> who cannot find flesh wash (like me), and the tips of painting a good
solid
> beautiful detail piece.
I have never found anything to match Windsor and Newton Burnt Sienna ink.
Some people swear by watered down paint - more power to them I say
> One more item, I am truly sorry for some of my comments in the past. I am
> new at this, and in 5 years, never been flamed. I know it was for a stupid
> question that seemed to sound as if I was trying to get around the rules
of
> the game (Tyranid question). It was my mistake to take it seriously, to
just
> let it go and not answer back and to read the manuals more carefully as
some
> of you have told me in a very kind and generous way.
I haven't noticed but those mean 40K people are like that. They only WFB
people who are mean like that play both games. Some times Mr Hwang does get
a bit competitive with Mr Bowles but it's always that Mr Fungsang egging him
on.
> Anyway, would certainly like some input in adding mixtures to enhance my
> figures. Oh, and one more thing, the Citadel bottles, in my experience,
dry
> up to quickly once I open them. do I turn them upside down, clean
> thoroughly, change them to different cap bottles. Maybe this is my problem
> but would also like to get some ideas. I paint the color of the paint on
> top of the black bottle to get me an idea of what it is I am pulling out,
> because I got tired of going through 20 to 30 bottles to find the color I
> need. Again, any suggestions, would really be appreciated.
I store them upside down in a tray and have taken to run Vaseline around the
rims to ease the opening and stop them evaporating. I have a little squeese
bottle of water that has been boiled for topping them up and generally
thining paint.
--
Robert Singers Highlights of RGMW @
Evil Genius 2nd Class http://www.rgmw.org
Homo Coffea Including FAQs
(Warning this post may contain traces of roasted partridge)
Tahrik Mili
4-5 faces I got the hang of the style I was comfortable with. I do it this
way:
1) Paint with bronzed flesh
2) Shade with my own custom wash (3:2:1 Water:Bronzed Flesh:Snakebite
Leather) and wipe away any wash on high areas
3) Highlight with my own custom highlight (1:1 Bronzed Flesh:Skull White)
Yes, with only one shade and one highlight it doesn't look like Golden Demon
material but it looks quite decent enough for me, and for most people. You
can always do middle shades and middle highlights and keep going up but I
don't have that kind of patience for simple troops etc. Still, since I have
a very steady hand, the faces of my minis look much better than pretty much
any others I see around here.
Regards,
Mil
Berto
"Robert Singers" <rsin...@naespam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hvyt8.88$Um1....@news02.tsnz.net...
> I have never found anything to match Windsor and Newton Burnt Sienna ink.
> Some people swear by watered down paint - more power to them I say
Thanks for the information. I will try and see how it comes out.
>( Snip)
>
> > Anyway, would certainly like some input in adding mixtures to enhance my
> > figures. Oh, and one more thing, the Citadel bottles, in my experience,
> dry
> > up to quickly once I open them. do I turn them upside down, clean
> > thoroughly, change them to different cap bottles. Maybe this is my
problem
> > but would also like to get some ideas. I paint the color of the paint
on
> > top of the black bottle to get me an idea of what it is I am pulling
out,
> > because I got tired of going through 20 to 30 bottles to find the color
I
> > need. Again, any suggestions, would really be appreciated.
>
> I store them upside down in a tray and have taken to run Vaseline around
the
> rims to ease the opening and stop them evaporating. I have a little
squeese
> bottle of water that has been boiled for topping them up and generally
> thining paint.
The idea of the Vaseline around the rims makes sense. Will experiment with
the squeeze bottle of water. excellent suggestions, thank you, Mr. Singers.
Berto
Berto
"Tahrik Mili" <oy...@bisiy.yok> wrote in message
news:2Czt8.108708$z9.1...@news.easynews.com...
Thanks for the great advice. From you and Mr. Singers, giving me some good
pointers. From the looks of my figs on a scale of 1-10. they are about a 4,
mostly for my lack of learning some of the shading and highlights. However,
to me, part of the game is the painting of the models. It creates to me the
excitement and the "pageantry". Well, whatever, it's fun.
Thank you again,
Berto
Berto
Greg
<rsin...@naespam.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>"Berto" wrote
>
>> I wanted to share this old but I believe some good advice for those people
>> who cannot find flesh wash (like me), and the tips of painting a good
>solid
>> beautiful detail piece.
>
>I have never found anything to match Windsor and Newton Burnt Sienna ink.
>Some people swear by watered down paint - more power to them I say
I use Liquitex Raw Sienna with lots of water added to make a flesh
wash. From what I've heard, it's apparently the same color used in
the Citadel Flesh Wash.
----------------------------------------------------
Can't stand your job?
www.escape.ca/~mdpglc
Myrmidon
<snipped interesting commentary on old GW mag...>
>
> "Painting is not different from metal models. An undercoat of white paint is
> recommended on the box back, but it is not important as with metal models.
>
better surface to adhere to and I recommended for both types of minis
whenever possible. Always wash your minis with a solution of degreasing
soap (dish soap works ok for this) to remove any mold release agents and
oils from your fingers that are on the mimis before primering. Always
remember to save your plastic sprue from your minis to test spray with a
primer to make sure the primer won't damage your minis. Some primers
have a higher concentration of acetone and may damage your plastics -
they slightly melt the surface causing the much feared 'orange peel'
effect where the surface takes on a wrinkly or sandpaper like texture.
To help avoid this, always spray in light coats and repeat after the
first coat is dry rather than trying to coat the mini with a single
heavy coat (you loose surface detail that way too.) The other thing
that helps is spray primering when the weather is warm or in areas where
the temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Or, if you must spray
when the weather is colder - warm your minis (especially plastic) first
with a hair dryer (don't get them hot to the point they're going to
melt) and spray out in a protected area (like the open garage) and then
immediately return to someplace warm where they can dry. Keep your
paint cans warm too. You can place the cans in warm (NOT HOT) water to
help keep them warm between spray runs outside.
(see my reply to Hwang's primer questions for more info.)
As for the color of the undercoat - that depends on what effect you are
trying to achieve. If you are trying to achieve a bright overall
surface color (like painting ultra marines) then you'd want to go with a
white or light gray primer. If you're going for a darker overall
surface color like I do with my Tyranids - start with a black primer
coat and then dry brush white over the top before putting down your
first colored coat (gives a nice starting contrast to the model.) If
you were doing minis that you wanted with a really high contrast - lets
say you're painting your Tyranids a bright red, then you could start by
base coating them in a bright green which is opposite on the color wheel
from your desired bright red final appearance. By doing the
'undercoat' in a contrasting color - you will always have a tiny bit
showing through, and the green underneath the red will make the red look
brighter (due to the way the cones and rods in the human eye work).
> 1.(my numbering). A good bone colour can be mixed with from one part of
> Citadel Colour Bronzed flesh to one part yellow, adding white if you wish.
> Remember, old bones aren't usually white but a yellowish brown. Once it is
> dry apply a wash to pick out all of the detail.
That's fairly accurate...
>
> 2.(my numbering) To prepare a wash, mixing brown and black paint and adding
> water to a consistency of dirty washing-up water. Paint and observe how the
> mix is picked up in the skeletons' eye sockets, ribs, and other joints."
>
I almost never use 'black' paint straight out of a container in
washes or when mixing paint. Here's why...
The human eye perceives depth based on several types of information...
Contrast - the difference between the lightest light, and the darkest
dark. The human eye picks up a greater range of contrast from objects
that are closer. Thus things with 'high contrast' tend to look closer
(or advance into the foreground on a 2D drawing or painting). Things
with medium contrast sit in the mid ground, and things with low contrast
tend to recede.
Then we get into colors...
Warm and Cool colors - the eye tends to perceive that warm colors
'advance' and that 'cool' colors recede, which can be used to create
some pretty cool illusions. Warm colors for example would be
Ultramarine Blue, and Fire Engine Red, or Rose-matter (Red) while Navy
blue would be a cool blue, and Alizarin Crimson would be a cool or cold
red.
I've seen paintings that used this advance/recede illusion to cool
effect. One consisted of a large surface with a cool red and a warm red
painted next to each other. If you stand close enough to the painting
that it fills most or all of your field of vision and then stare right
at the meeting point of the warm and cool colors, after a minute or so,
the painting will look like it's moving or undulating - very cool and
sometimes disturbing! (Most casual viewers in art museums today sadly
have no clue how to 'view' these types of paintings. They glance at
them and walk away clueless to the real purpose and beauty of these
works.)
Next up is Croma - the brightness or intensity of a color. Again,
bright colors tend to advance visually while neutral colors sit in the
mid ground, and dark colors recede. Colors also have a 'push pull'
effect where the relation of one color can effect the appearance of
another. For example a neutral green next to a warm red can make the red
look even brighter and warmer. (It has to do with the way the cones and
rods in your eyes take an 'average' of a color in a particular
environment.)
So, why no black? Here's why. When you get black paint out of a tube
(so to speak) it's often very difficult to tell if it's a 'warm' or a
'cool' black - which makes it hard to know if it'll work well with the
warm/cool color scheme you should be trying to establish on your mini.
In addition, when you mix 'black' pigment with your colored pigment, you
tend to get a 'muddy' or 'dull' effect (you aren't 'neutralizing' your
colored pigment - you're simply diluting it with color absorbing pigment
- black) which tends to flatten out the appearance of the surface and
does NOT help you use the push pull effect of colors to create the
illusion of greater depth and detail. Much of mini painting is
capitalizing on the illusionary effects of human vision. If you must
use a black wash - make your own black by combining a warm red, blue and
yellow, or a cool red, blue and yellow. It'll be superior to stuff
straight out of a container, and it'll work with your warm or cold color
scheme.
White should also be used sparingly for the same reason - white does NOT
'lighten' a color - it simply dilutes your colored pigment while
reflecting more visible light back to the eye. The end result isn't
'truly' a lighter blue for example (a true light blue would be the
result of a 'light blue' pigment) but rather a 'pastel' blue. This
works ok if you're adding small amounts of white to a color - but the
more white, the more pastel and flat your color ends up. (You can
sometimes get around this by painting a surface white, and then doing
thin washes of your desired color over the white. This lets some of the
light pass through the thin wash, to the white surface and be reflected
back through the paint wash to the eye - sometimes this will make an
illusory 'light blue' for example)
Generally - inks are superior to 'watered down' paint for washes as the
ink particles are finer ground (which means they tend to settle into
small crevasses more evenly) and designed to be suspended in a liquid
medium.
So, here's an example of these ideas put to use...
Lets say I want to paint a mini with a long flowing black cloak, but I
don't want it to be flat looking, or have only a black, gray, white
contrast. My mini is generally done in a 'warm' color scheme. So, I
decide I want my Cloak to be a warm black. I then decide that I want
'white-ish' highlights on the cloak. Well, in nature things are almost
never 'true' white. So I decide to make them a warm slightly bluish
white. What color contrasts with blue? Orange. So, I paint the cloak
a warm rich black color. I then do one or more light washes of orange
in the dark recessed areas of the cloak (and no, I don't want it to be
obviously 'orange' to the naked eye). Once it's dry I do a bit of
careful highlighting with a bluish white on the areas I want to accent.
The overall push pull of the blue/orange should unconsciously create the
illusion of extra depth in the folds of the cloak without being heavy
handed with the paint.
> I wanted to share this old but I believe some good advice for those people
> who cannot find flesh wash (like me), and the tips of painting a good solid
> beautiful detail piece.
>
Ahhh, flesh tones. With the possible exception of a few Asia
ethnic groups, virtually every flesh tone is a combination of just red
and green. Remember where I talked about warm and cool colors? Well,
this is where it's really important...
It's hard to describe verbally how to mix paint colors for flesh tones -
it's really more a matter of experience on your part. But here's how
you go about getting that experience.
Grid off a piece of white poster board into a whole series of small
squares (you don't need large ones - you don't to use a ton of paint to
do this properly) like a piece of graph paper. Try 1/2 inch squares.
Start with a 'warm' red, and mix a small amount of a 'warm' green in
with it, and paint in a square. Mix a bit more of your 'warm' green in
with your 'warm' red and paint in another square below your first (skip
a square - you want to leave white space around each of your color
squares). Repeat those steps until you have a column where your color
mix goes from mostly 'warm' red to mostly 'warm' green. Skip a column
and then do the same using 'warm' red and a 'neutral' green. Repeat
with a 'warm' red and a 'cool' or 'cold' green. Then try the same
starting with a 'neutral' red and a 'warm' green, etc. You'll end up
with a series of columns that will have some good and some ugly
potential color mixes. From there it's a matter of trying some more
experimentation by adding some white (remember your warms and cools as
this is true of white as well) to the mix of the more promising color
patches. You may need to add other colors too (see below.)
The other factor is a matter of knowing what the general skin tones of
the ethnic group you're trying to paint.
Here's what I've found....
Native American / South American - warm skin tones - tending more
towards the reddish side.
Mediterranean - warm skin tones tending more toward the greenish side
(hence the term 'olive' skin tone.)
Caucasian - varies a bit by ethnic group, but generally neutral to warm
skin tones - tending more towards the reddish side. (I tend to use a
warm white color such as 'tan' or 'parchment' when mixing for lighter
Caucasian skin tones.)
African - varies greatly by ethnic group. Can range for warm neutral
(equal parts red & green) to cool dark (tends to be more green) and warm
dark.
Asian - again, varies greatly by ethnic group. Peoples of Mongolian
decent for example tend to have a deep warm or neutral reddish
complexion. While other groups may have even a slight yellowish cast (I
generally use a neutral yellow, such as 'yellow ochre', added to the mix
in small amounts).
National Geographic with it's attention to color and detail, as well as
other art books are a great source of 'skin tone' information for
various ethnic groups - try your local library too.
This is where that flesh tone paint mixing chart really pays off. Once
you have it done, you have a visual reference of what the paint you're
using will do when mixed. You take the most promising ones, and
experiment with them by adding whites, yellows, browns, etc until you
get the color you want (add squares to your color chart and for god-
sakes, take notes so you don't try to duplicate a certain flesh color
later and suddenly realize you don't remember what you mixed to make it
the first time.) It's better to waste a little paint in the beginning
to learn how to color mix then to spend a lifetime wasting paint, time,
and effort only to end up with results you don't like.
> One more item, I am truly sorry for some of my comments in the past. I am
> new at this, and in 5 years, never been flamed. I know it was for a stupid
> question that seemed to sound as if I was trying to get around the rules of
> the game (Tyranid question). It was my mistake to take it seriously, to just
> let it go and not answer back and to read the manuals more carefully as some
> of you have told me in a very kind and generous way.
See, there you go screwing up that question again. It was more my
being a crab-ass that day than anything else. (Overtime at work is
making me miss a bunch of my martial arts classes, my step-father was in
the hospital for 5 days with problems relating to an irregular
heartbeat, and to top it all off, that night when I got home from work
my car breaks went out due to a leaking break line.) Sorry about taking
it out on you - I thought you were purposely ignoring the others who
pointed out the rule you missed. My fault, not yours. Hope you'll
accept the apology.
> Anyway, would certainly like some input in adding mixtures to enhance my
> figures. Oh, and one more thing, the Citadel bottles, in my experience, dry
> up to quickly once I open them. do I turn them upside down, clean
> thoroughly, change them to different cap bottles. Maybe this is my problem
> but would also like to get some ideas. I paint the color of the paint on
> top of the black bottle to get me an idea of what it is I am pulling out,
> because I got tired of going through 20 to 30 bottles to find the color I
> need. Again, any suggestions, would really be appreciated.
>
No, it's not you. GW's latest paint containers are legendary in
the 'totally sucks' department. Personally, if you don't want to spend
the big $$$ on artist grade acrylic paints, try any of the following
craft type paints. Plaid, Folk Art, and Applebarrel all make decent
acrylic paints that are in many cases (depends on the color) superior to
GW's paints and you get more paint for less money. (Go figure...) Try
Wal-mart or other chain stores in the crafts section.
Hope that helps,
Myrmidon
--
"Conan, what is best in life?"
"To paint your miniatures, to see them driven before you on the table,
and to hear the lamentation of the cheese-mongers!"
- Del Webb
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
Berto
HAVE ENCOUNTERED! Yes I yelled, but it was an exciting bit of excellent bit
of information. Thank you, Myr and BTW, there is an apology below, in our
section. read on.
"Myrmidon" <Im...@home.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.17213a8ed...@news-server.woh.rr.com...
You may not know this, but I am an Emergency Medicine/ Family physician. I
deal with those looks of hope everday and I always try to beat Death. I
can't, I know it, but I fight for my patients, their families and our
humanity. That same day of your reply, my 21 year old son was hit head on by
a truck. he wore his seat belt and then I was on the other side. He is fine.
I hope your father is fine as well. I think we both are good people who had
a bad day, took it bad and since I am a newbie at this, thought that others
would help. They did and you have. I am a Professor at a Medical School in
the great midwest so am not an idiot(most of the time :))and do a lot of
teaching of my own and at times I have to hammer those pointy skulls down
and flatten them so that they may, if they are lucky become physicians that
I would be proud of, and strangely enough have been missing my aikido
classes because too much karate gave me enough arthritis to create
problems. My son, turned me on to aikido. It is more relaxing, especially,
for us older buggers. I understand where now you were coming from so there
is no need for an apology, but I apologize for saying such filth. Honestly,
this newsgroup needs to killfile more of these words. there are too many
kids in here, and I unfortunately added to the mud. Again, my apologies, and
God Bless, Myr. Keep up the good fight!
Berto
>
>
>
> > Anyway, would certainly like some input in adding mixtures to enhance my
> > figures. Oh, and one more thing, the Citadel bottles, in my experience,
dry
> > up to quickly once I open them. do I turn them upside down, clean
> > thoroughly, change them to different cap bottles. Maybe this is my
problem
> > but would also like to get some ideas. I paint the color of the paint
on
> > top of the black bottle to get me an idea of what it is I am pulling
out,
> > because I got tired of going through 20 to 30 bottles to find the color
I
> > need. Again, any suggestions, would really be appreciated.
> >
>
> No, it's not you. GW's latest paint containers are legendary in
> the 'totally sucks' department. Personally, if you don't want to spend
> the big $$$ on artist grade acrylic paints, try any of the following
> craft type paints. Plaid, Folk Art, and Applebarrel all make decent
> acrylic paints that are in many cases (depends on the color) superior to
> GW's paints and you get more paint for less money. (Go figure...) Try
> Wal-mart or other chain stores in the crafts section.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Myrmidon
>
>You bet it has, sir. thank you again, Berto>
John Hwang
Just a few comments below.
>If you were doing minis that you wanted with a really high contrast - lets
>say you're painting your Tyranids a bright red, then you could start by
>base coating them in a bright green which is opposite on the color wheel
>from your desired bright red final appearance. By doing the
>'undercoat' in a contrasting color - you will always have a tiny bit
>showing through, and the green underneath the red will make the red look
>brighter (due to the way the cones and rods in the human eye work).
Ahh... I never knew this. A very good tip! I'll keep this in mind for later!
>> 2.(my numbering) To prepare a wash, mixing brown and black paint and adding
>> water to a consistency of dirty washing-up water. Paint and observe how the
>> mix is picked up in the skeletons' eye sockets, ribs, and other joints."
>>
> I almost never use 'black' paint straight out of a container in
>washes or when mixing paint.
Hmm... I do, but I have several shades of "black", so it's not so bad. I
also tend to use black in layers of very thin washes for shading.
>The human eye perceives depth based on several types of information...
>
>Contrast - the difference between the lightest light, and the darkest
>dark.
>Warm and Cool colors
What I call "temperature". :)
>Next up is Croma - the brightness or intensity of a color.
Yup. The great Trinity of painting contrasts. :)
>So, why no black? Here's why. When you get black paint out of a tube
>(so to speak) it's often very difficult to tell if it's a 'warm' or a
>'cool' black - which makes it hard to know if it'll work well with the
>warm/cool color scheme you should be trying to establish on your mini.
Hence, the need to have a variety of blacks to work with, or a "pure" or
"neutral" (typically cool) black which you can warm as needed.
>Generally - inks are superior to 'watered down' paint for washes as the
>ink particles are finer ground (which means they tend to settle into
>small crevasses more evenly) and designed to be suspended in a liquid
>medium.
Yup.
>So, here's an example of these ideas put to use...
>
>Lets say I want to paint a mini with a long flowing black cloak, but I
>don't want it to be flat looking, or have only a black, gray, white
>contrast. My mini is generally done in a 'warm' color scheme. So, I
>decide I want my Cloak to be a warm black. I then decide that I want
>'white-ish' highlights on the cloak. Well, in nature things are almost
>never 'true' white. So I decide to make them a warm slightly bluish
>white. What color contrasts with blue? Orange. So, I paint the cloak
>a warm rich black color. I then do one or more light washes of orange
>in the dark recessed areas of the cloak (and no, I don't want it to be
>obviously 'orange' to the naked eye). Once it's dry I do a bit of
>careful highlighting with a bluish white on the areas I want to accent.
>The overall push pull of the blue/orange should unconsciously create the
>illusion of extra depth in the folds of the cloak without being heavy
>handed with the paint.
A neat trick!
It's better to waste a little paint in the beginning
>to learn how to color mix then to spend a lifetime wasting paint, time,
>and effort only to end up with results you don't like.
Yup. Always test paint a reference mini to know that the scheme is good before
embarking upon a major painting project!
>> Anyway, would certainly like some input in adding mixtures to enhance my
>> figures. Oh, and one more thing, the Citadel bottles, in my experience,
>>dry up to quickly once I open them. do I turn them upside down, clean
>> thoroughly, change them to different cap bottles. Maybe this is my problem
>> but would also like to get some ideas.
If you have them spare, new bottles will definitely help. Otherwise, put some
petroleum jelly on the threads to make an air-tight seal.
>>I paint the color of the paint on
>> top of the black bottle to get me an idea of what it is I am pulling out,
>> because I got tired of going through 20 to 30 bottles to find the color I
>> need. Again, any suggestions, would really be appreciated.
I keep my old GW "pop-top" paint, in a translucent organizing case. Key
bottles are tagged on the top, for quick reference. Everything is sorted by
tone, with a blue range, a green range, a red range, and a metallic/ink range.
So I just *know* where each paint is.
> No, it's not you. GW's latest paint containers are legendary in
>the 'totally sucks' department.
Yes.
>Personally, if you don't want to spend
>the big $$$ on artist grade acrylic paints, try any of the following
>craft type paints. Plaid, Folk Art, and Applebarrel all make decent
>acrylic paints that are in many cases (depends on the color) superior to
>GW's paints and you get more paint for less money. (Go figure...) Try
>Wal-mart or other chain stores in the crafts section.
Or get the old GW paint, now sold as "Coat D'Arms".
--- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
Berto
"John Hwang" <johnhw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote in message
news:20020413140848...@mb-fa.news.cs.com...
> Myrmidon Im...@home.com wrote:
>
> Just a few comments below.
>
> >If you were doing minis that you wanted with a really high contrast -
lets
> >say you're painting your Tyranids a bright red, then you could start by
> >base coating them in a bright green which is opposite on the color wheel
> >from your desired bright red final appearance. By doing the
> >'undercoat' in a contrasting color - you will always have a tiny bit
> >showing through, and the green underneath the red will make the red look
> >brighter (due to the way the cones and rods in the human eye work).
>
> Ahh... I never knew this. A very good tip! I'll keep this in mind for
later!
Excellent tip, sir!
(My Snippage)
that mistake I have already done, but it is well worth repeating.
Mr. Hwang: you have added another excellent course in the area of painting,
protecting your painting, not wasting your time in finding your paints,
always place them in the colors or tones together, buying and of course
cheaper and the same or better flow and just as good as paints, etc. I have
already copied these two wonderful threads, plus the other gentlemen who
offerred me help in creating my armies. Mr. Myr and Mr. Hwang, thank you
both, sirs! I know that to a lot of you, it may be old stuff, but I will do
some figures and post them (no binaries--been reading the FAQ). I would like
to get my figures from a 3or 4 out of possible 10(best) to at least a 7 or
8. I will have to recreate and paint my Tyranid army and pull the little
hormogaunts little wings off and repaint (a small joke). This thread took a
while to write to me (and to others of course) but felt it was personal to a
fellow trying to learn the another art.
Again, thanks sirs,
berto
Robert Singers
> I NEED TO TOP POST THIS! THIS IS BY FAR ONE OF THE BEST INFORMATIVE PIECES
i
> HAVE ENCOUNTERED! Yes I yelled, but it was an exciting bit of excellent
bit
> of information. Thank you, Myr and BTW, there is an apology below, in our
> section. read on.
Unfortunately you don't need to top-post you just need to "snip". While I
understand the excitement I also understand what it's like for those people
who pay through the nose for Usenet access and those with erratic servers.
It's quite simple to get on well here a) Keep the name of the person you're
replying too b) snip the extraneous material and keep the points you're
replying too, c) reply "under" the points and d) post in the best English
you can manage.
I was going to tell Myr I hated him but saw the piece at the end as well.
Maybe his HP is just telling him to slow down so he has more time to paint.
I think I might be sending him the outline for another article on
http://www.rgmw.org based on that post. Don't worry we'll make him feel
wanted and loved ;-)
John Hwang
>Mr. Hwang: you have added another excellent course in the area of painting,
>protecting your painting, not wasting your time in finding your paints,
>always place them in the colors or tones together, buying and of course
>cheaper and the same or better flow and just as good as paints, etc. I have
>already copied these two wonderful threads, plus the other gentlemen who
>offerred me help in creating my armies. Mr. Myr and Mr. Hwang, thank you
>both, sirs!
You're quite welcome.
See? RGMW *does* try to help! :)
>I know that to a lot of you, it may be old stuff, but I will do
>some figures and post them (no binaries--been reading the FAQ). I would like
>to get my figures from a 3or 4 out of possible 10(best) to at least a 7 or
>8.
If you're below 5, improvement is rapid! You'll see it almost immediately,
with each unit you paint. It's getting above 7/8 which is hard.
>I will have to recreate and paint my Tyranid army and pull the little
>hormogaunts little wings off and repaint (a small joke). This thread took a
>while to write to me (and to others of course) but felt it was personal to a
>fellow trying to learn the another art.
>
>Again, thanks sirs,
As above, you're quite welcome.
Berto
> "Berto" wrote
> > I NEED TO TOP POST THIS! THIS IS BY FAR ONE OF THE BEST INFORMATIVE
PIECES
> i
> > HAVE ENCOUNTERED! Yes I yelled, but it was an exciting bit of excellent
> bit
> > of information. Thank you, Myr and BTW, there is an apology below, in
our
> > section. read on.
>
> Unfortunately you don't need to top-post you just need to "snip". While I
> understand the excitement I also understand what it's like for those
people
> who pay through the nose for Usenet access and those with erratic servers.
Very Good Point. wont happen again.
> It's quite simple to get on well here a) Keep the name of the person
you're
> replying too b) snip the extraneous material and keep the points you're
> replying too, c) reply "under" the points and d) post in the best English
> you can manage.
Although I my second language is English (I was born in Cuba), sometimes my
nouns and adjectives are placed in the wrong place, and the sentences
although awkward, try to get the message across. I have a secretary to help
me correct the grammar. I am on my own here. :)
> I was going to tell Myr I hated him but saw the piece at the end as well.
> Maybe his HP is just telling him to slow down so he has more time to
paint.
> I think I might be sending him the outline for another article on
> http://www.rgmw.org based on that post. Don't worry we'll make him feel
> wanted and loved ;-)
Thank you again for not coming down on him. He replied a beautiful piece on
painting as well as Mr. Hwang. I have copied them and have felt that both
have indirectily and directly expressed their feelings in an honorable way.
What troubles me is with all of these individuals who behave like rubes, it
is no wonder that people's buttons can get punch real quick. Sir, they have
done the honorable thing in my mind. My concern although is we all have free
speech and we neeed to killfile these cursing (which I was at fault).
there are children and of course trolls who try to destroy this wonderful
game. Sorry, I get winded. The trolls need to be wiped out. That is my one
peeve in all of the NGs that I have frequented. Excellent discourse in how
to spot them (I Read the FAQ!). And thank you for going out of your way to
express your thoughts. They were kindly taken and received.
thanks again, sir
berto
Robert Singers
> "Robert Singers" wrote
> > "Berto" wrote
> > > I NEED TO TOP POST THIS! THIS IS BY FAR ONE OF THE BEST INFORMATIVE
> PIECES
> > i
> > > HAVE ENCOUNTERED! Yes I yelled, but it was an exciting bit of
excellent
> > bit
> > > of information. Thank you, Myr and BTW, there is an apology below, in
> our
> > > section. read on.
> >
> > Unfortunately you don't need to top-post you just need to "snip". While
I
> > understand the excitement I also understand what it's like for those
> people
> > who pay through the nose for Usenet access and those with erratic
servers.
>
> Very Good Point. wont happen again.
Thanks.
> > It's quite simple to get on well here a) Keep the name of the person
> you're
> > replying too b) snip the extraneous material and keep the points you're
> > replying too, c) reply "under" the points and d) post in the best
English
> > you can manage.
>
> Although I my second language is English (I was born in Cuba), sometimes
my
> nouns and adjectives are placed in the wrong place, and the sentences
> although awkward, try to get the message across. I have a secretary to
help
> me correct the grammar. I am on my own here. :)
That's why I said the best English you can manage. You being lazy doesn't
help you improve or us understand you and native English speakers being lazy
doesn't help you to understand them. The point of language is communication
after all.
> > I was going to tell Myr I hated him but saw the piece at the end as
well.
> > Maybe his HP is just telling him to slow down so he has more time to
> paint.
> > I think I might be sending him the outline for another article on
> > http://www.rgmw.org based on that post. Don't worry we'll make him feel
> > wanted and loved ;-)
>
> Thank you again for not coming down on him.
He loves it really :-)
> He replied a beautiful piece on
> painting as well as Mr. Hwang. I have copied them and have felt that both
> have indirectily and directly expressed their feelings in an honorable
way.
> What troubles me is with all of these individuals who behave like rubes,
it
> is no wonder that people's buttons can get punch real quick. Sir, they
have
> done the honorable thing in my mind.
Well, we can all get a little bit silly sometimes. My, John and myself have
all been known to killfile someone or get killfiled out of actions taken
because we got a little bit hotheated when we should have taken a break and
come back to it. You live and learn.
> My concern although is we all have free
> speech and we neeed to killfile these cursing (which I was at fault).
> there are children and of course trolls who try to destroy this wonderful
> game. Sorry, I get winded. The trolls need to be wiped out. That is my one
> peeve in all of the NGs that I have frequented. Excellent discourse in how
> to spot them (I Read the FAQ!). And thank you for going out of your way to
> express your thoughts. They were kindly taken and received.
Just killfile them and let people who like hunting trolls deal with them.
Now you're the guy who posted about putting a broom outside your door when
someone isn't welcome, aren't you? Can you explain how that works. You see
them coming and whip the broom out there. Our you just leave a broom
sitting against your door to say "I'm pissed off today" (must be what that
thing in John's sig is 8} ).
Berto
> "Berto" wrote
> > "Robert Singers" wrote
>> Now you're the guy who posted about putting a broom outside your door
when
> someone isn't welcome, aren't you? Can you explain how that works. You
see
> them coming and whip the broom out there. Our you just leave a broom
> sitting against your door to say "I'm pissed off today" (must be what
that
> thing in John's sig is 8} ).
It is a Cuban tradition.My mother taught me this and always used it. It
implies that you are very busy, pissed off, upset, etc. but you "hurriedly
try to hide the broom behind the door." (in plain sight of course)Of course.
It is even better when you open the door with the broom in hand and turn it
upside down. Within a few minutes, the person picks up the hint and he gives
an apology, by stating that he was sorry he did not call before hand(if he
is a friend), or if not, the message is generally picked up fairly quickly,
because soon you pick up the broom and ask him/her if there is anything else
he needs (not wants). If he still does not get it, then he is told to please
leave, we are in the middle of cleaning (which includes him), and PLLEAASE,
in the future, please do not hesitate in calling before you arrive, since we
may have company or not be at home and that is certainly VERY RUDE to leave
him/her wasting his time. Always has worked. Of course in the USA, the
vacuum cleaner would probably be weapon of choice. In UK?? anyone?
Whiskbroom, big stick? a rather unsightly cooking apron from those wonderful
fat ladies that used to have a cooking show before one of them died. I
wonder? Creating Flesh Wash.... what On topic conversation. <G>.
Thanks, Mr. Singers for asking the question. No one has ever asked, but the
people that know the upside down broom symbolism certainly know what the
honorable thing to do is.
Thank you, Sir, for bringing back an old and happy memory, and picking up on
the odd reference.
berto
>
>
John Hwang
>Our you just leave a broom sitting against your door to say
>"I'm pissed off today" (must be what that thing in John's sig
>is 8} ).
*Which* John? There are at least 2 on RGMW.
Robert Singers
> "Robert Singers" rsin...@naespam.hotmail.com wrote:
>
> >Our you just leave a broom sitting against your door to say
> >"I'm pissed off today" (must be what that thing in John's sig
> >is 8} ).
>
> *Which* John? There are at least 2 on RGMW.
You
> --- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
> \-|-/
> | A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
> | Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
See the broom, just above :-)
John Hwang
>"John Hwang" <johnhw...@cs.com.no.com> wrote ...
>> "Robert Singers" rsin...@naespam.hotmail.com wrote:
>>
>> >Our you just leave a broom sitting against your door to say
>> >"I'm pissed off today" (must be what that thing in John's sig
>> >is 8} ).
>>
>> *Which* John? There are at least 2 on RGMW.
>
>You
>
>> --- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
>> \-|-/
>> | A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
>> | Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
>
>See the broom, just above :-)
That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne First Eastern Mortar
Corps. It is *not* a broom.
Robert Singers
> "Robert Singers" wrote:
> >"John Hwang" wrote ...
> >> "Robert Singers" wrote:
> >>
> >> >Our you just leave a broom sitting against your door to say
> >> >"I'm pissed off today" (must be what that thing in John's
sig
> >> >is 8} ).
> >>
> >> *Which* John? There are at least 2 on RGMW.
> >
> >You
> >
> >> --- John Hwang "JohnHw...@cs.com.no.com"
> >> \-|-/
> >> | A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
> >> | Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny
> >
> >See the broom, just above :-)
>
> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne First
Eastern Mortar
> Corps. It is *not* a broom.
Nothing wrong with brooms you know. You can pretend they're
horseys.
Vampy
> >See the broom, just above :-)
>
> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne First Eastern
Mortar
> Corps. It is *not* a broom.
A rake then?
John Hwang
>>
>> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne First Eastern
>> Mortar Corps. It is *not* a broom.
>
>A rake then?
No. A cross.
Robert Singers
"John Hwang" wrote
> "Vampy" wrote;
> >"John Hwang" wrote ...
> >
> >> >See the broom, just above :-)
> >>
> >> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne
First Eastern
> >> Mortar Corps. It is *not* a broom.
> >
> >A rake then?
>
> No. A cross.
IIRC you don't use coconut shells, so it has to be a broom. How
else would you get anywhere?
Craig Little
Robert Singers
> "Robert Singers" wrote
> > "John Hwang" wrote
> > > "Vampy" wrote;
> > > >"John Hwang" wrote ...
> > > >
> > > >> >See the broom, just above :-)
> > > >>
> > > >> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne
> > First Eastern
> > > >> Mortar Corps. It is *not* a broom.
> > > >
> > > >A rake then?
> > >
> > > No. A cross.
> >
> > IIRC you don't use coconut shells, so it has to be a broom.
How
> > else would you get anywhere?
> >
> Horsies?
Ride a cock horse to . . . . . . .
Vampy
> >> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne First Eastern
> >> Mortar Corps. It is *not* a broom.
> >
> >A rake then?
>
> No. A pitchfork.
Of course.
Blue Raja
> >>
> >> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne First Eastern
> >> Mortar Corps. It is *not* a broom.
> >
> >A rake then?
>
> No. A cross.
Oh, I get it now.
...
So it's a fork then?
--
The Blue Raja
"We tried to stop her by hitting her fists and feet with our faces, but...
" - Gunn
RGMW FAQ - Just read the damn thing
http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm
Robert Singers
> "John Hwang" wrote
> > >> >See the broom, just above :-)
> > >>
> > >> That is the Blood Cross of the Amaterasu Kingdom Demesne
First Eastern
> > >> Mortar Corps. It is *not* a broom.
> > >
> > >A rake then?
> >
> > No. A cross.
>
> Oh, I get it now.
>
It's a broom.