Getting ready to Paint for the 1st time
Whitemask
other paint and I was curious as to a couple of things.
1.) Is there any particular brand of varnish or finsh/protective coat
that anyone uses that seems to be good?
2.) Before you paint, do you water down your paint and if so, about how
much?
3.) Do you water down your inks/washes?
4.) What brand and size brushes do you use?
4.) Any other tips?
Thanks!
- Nicholas Hendley
PhdFaust
>that anyone uses that seems to be good?
Testors makes good glosscoats. Floquil makes a great dullcoat.
>2.) Before you paint, do you water down your paint and if so, about how
>much?
When you open the paint take the cap and put a drop or two of water in the cap
and mix it up a bit. It should be enough.
>3.) Do you water down your inks/washes?
>
You can water them down depending on your own tastes. For Citadel inks, I
prefer to use them straight, except for the brown colors.
>4.) What brand and size brushes do you use?
>
>
Again this depends on your tastes. Natural fiber brushes, like red sables, are
expensive and last longer, but they don't hold a point well. Synthetics are
cheaper, have a good tip, but they don't last as long.
For sizes, I use a 0 size brush the most. You should also have a larger size
like a 2 for base coats, and a 000 for fine details like eyes.
>4.) Any other tips?
>
>
Practice! Practice! Practice!
Good luck!
Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic & Gallery
http://members.aol.com/phdfaust/index.htm
Tim Hallman
>
> I've recently ordered some paint (mainly the starter set, plus some
> other paint and I was curious as to a couple of things.
>
> that anyone uses that seems to be good?
>
> much?
>
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> - Nicholas Hendley
First off, I'll point out to you that I'm an insane painter.
That being said:
1) Floquil Figure flat is my favorite. It is completely matte when
dry. Can't really help you on gloss. I only use the paint on kind for
gems and gooy stuff.
2) I dip out my paint (using an old brush) and mix my paint on a tray.
Generally, I mix about one dab a water with about 4 dabs of paint (I use
and old size 0 brush for this).
3) With inks/washes, it all depends on the color. With washes, your
best bet is to make them too thin. You can always put on a second coat,
and you'll know not to thin it that much the next time.
4) (all opinion here)I use Floquil red sable brushes, almost
exclusively. On occasion, I'll use some of the Armory's, or some of
Floquil's synthetic. The size I use the most is 3/0. 10/0 coming in at
a close second. For that REALLY small detail, I've been known to use
the 20/0 synthetic from Floquil.
the second 4)
Take you time and play with the colors. Make mistakes. It's the best
way to learn. Go to a local art store and see if they have a color
wheel. Helped me tons back when I started to paint.
Above and beyond everything else. ENJOY IT!!!!
tim
One of the Lloyds
<whit...@gloryroad.net> writes
>I've recently ordered some paint (mainly the starter set, plus some
>other paint and I was curious as to a couple of things.
>
>1.) Is there any particular brand of varnish or finsh/protective coat
>that anyone uses that seems to be good?
>
varnish is varnish is varnish, I don't think any brand is better than
another. However, you should chose between gloss or matt. Gloos gives
more protection but is shiny, matt gives less and is not. However, over
time it will pick up dust more easily. Many people give them a coat of
gloss, then a coat of matt over the top to dull down the shine.
>2.) Before you paint, do you water down your paint and if so, about how
>much?
>
No, I use it straight from the pot. Having said that, the new paints
seem to be thicker so I constantly dip my brush in the water to wet it.
Only a quick dip if you have paint on the brush and wipe of excess water
by running it gently over the rim of the bowl. Then apply the paint (as
you can imagine, I'm messy with my equiment, but my models are good so
you don't have to be mr perfect).
>3.) Do you water down your inks/washes?
>
Yes and no. It depends on the effect I want. If you don't water them
down they will change the colour or give it a different effect. If you
water it down it will go into the cracks but not change the colour over
all. If I'm doing wood I leave it as is. Doing faces I water down the
flesh wash to stop them looking at arabs.
>4.) What brand and size brushes do you use?
>
Citedel. I tried humbrol (sp?) but wasen't impressed. The brushes
flaired out or didn't come to a point. I use a standard and fine detail
brushes, thats all I need.
>4.) Any other tips?
>
Practice a lot, don't be put off if your first models looked like shit,
everyone's does. It takes a lot of practice to get it good, and you
never stop improving. At first, don't bother with highlights. Just base
coat it and then apply an ink. This gives nice looking models that are
quick to paint. As you develope you may change. I prefer a "realistic"
approach and so don't use inks a lot because they give a bright
"dynamic" feel to the model. "realistic" painting takes longer because
you have to paint the shading, then the base colour and then the
highlights. Other styles are "black line" in which you undercoat black,
then drybrush white over it and then paint the base coats on the white.
This gives ready made shading, and the effect is not unpleasing although
it looks far from realistic. Another is "magical". I use it on Eldar and
elves, demons etc. because they are magical beings or are famous for
their magic. This is a style I developed myself and it looks good, but
takes ages to do. Like realistic in every respect, except you go to
extremes with shading and highlighting. So dark green robes might be
almost black in the shaded parts to almost yellow on the highlights,
gradually building up!
Other tips, never throw away a brush! When its knackered, buy a new one
but keep the old. If it is way too knackered, use it to do undercoats.
If it gets worse use it to paint glue on bases. Sometimes you end up
with interesting shapes. Sprayed out is useful for drybrushing large
areas. I have one brush with only has a single group of brissles left at
a point. I use this for painting lightening on magic weapons (looks
great!) and writing where needed. Super fine detail brush, you can't buy
it anywhere.
Always look after your brushes well!
Lastly, but certainly not leastly, aim for neatness at first. Just
accept you can't do a heavy metal job and instead aim for a good base
coat. Be careful not to have colours splashing onto others. Just aim to
get each area basecoated as neatly as possible. Also, whenever painting
a new model, paint only one to get the feel of it. Then either continue
one at a time or do groups.
Oh, and read the free painting manual that you get.
see ya,
Ranger
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PhdFaust
>another.
Not so. I've found that Floquil flat protects much better than Testor flat, but
Testors does give a flater coat. Maybe thats why.