[Model] Pegasus Hobbies Technobridge Review
Myrmidon
I've seen some of Pegasus Hobbies' kits at the FLGS for a while now, and
while the building kits aren't bad, they've just never grabbed me
either. That said, I've looked at the Tech bridge and decided to grab
one ($15) and see how well it would work with my other 40K terrain.
Answer - quite well. While not very high in terms of space under the
main bridge span, it's suitably long (12 inches) with enough width (6.5
in between the railings) to easily accommodate a Land Raider or a pair
of Dreads side by side. The detailing is decent, and the model is
incredibly simple to assemble. Add battle damage and a mimimal paint job
and it would look excellent in a cityfight or wilderness tabletop setup.
I'm planning on priming mine black, and then use spray metallics before
adding some weathering and mud. Should take an a hour, maybe 90 minutes
tops to add another nice piece to my collection.
Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
I've been planning on forever and a day...)
Myrmidon 0_o
--
And I want someone to slap me with a fish every time I buy something
new, assemble it, and then leave it unpainted for months.
- Jakearon
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Blackheart
> I've seen some of Pegasus Hobbies' kits at the FLGS for a while now, and
> while the building kits aren't bad, they've just never grabbed me
> either. That said, I've looked at the Tech bridge and decided to grab
> one ($15) and see how well it would work with my other 40K terrain.
>
> Answer - quite well. While not very high in terms of space under the
> main bridge span, it's suitably long (12 inches) with enough width (6.5
> in between the railings) to easily accommodate a Land Raider or a pair
> of Dreads side by side. The detailing is decent, and the model is
> incredibly simple to assemble. Add battle damage and a mimimal paint job
> and it would look excellent in a cityfight or wilderness tabletop setup.
> I'm planning on priming mine black, and then use spray metallics before
> adding some weathering and mud. Should take an a hour, maybe 90 minutes
> tops to add another nice piece to my collection.
>
> Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
> I've been planning on forever and a day...)
>
> Myrmidon 0_o
what do you think of the river sections that Warstore sells? JR
Terrain or something like that....
Blackheart
Playa
Hey,
On Nov 4, 12:39 am, Blackheart <blackheart666_2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Nov 3, 8:50 pm, Myrmidon <Im...@home.com> wrote:
> > I just have to make some river sections
I'd consider artificial 'drain culvert' for ease of construction.
I.e. concrete texture, regular width and without curvature.
It's the dim blankness of the far future, etc . . .
> the river sections that Warstore sells
The examples I've seen in the flgs all look the same -
Over $1 per inch for brittle resin with widely variable QA.
Contrast such a prospect with:
http://www.grainger.com/1/1/268504-panduit-c3lg6-f-wire-duct-cover-flush-gray-3-25w-x-0-37d.html
$20 for 72in with no voids/ flash/ miscasts - and no dust.
I chose the 3.25in width, but ime up to 6in wide is available.
Playa
Blackheart
> Hey,
>
> On Nov 4, 12:39 am, Blackheart <blackheart666_2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > On Nov 3, 8:50 pm, Myrmidon <Im...@home.com> wrote:
> > > I just have to make some river sections
>
> I'd consider artificial 'drain culvert' for ease of construction.
> I.e. concrete texture, regular width and without curvature.
> It's the dim blankness of the far future, etc . . .
>
> > the river sections that Warstore sells
>
> The examples I've seen in the flgs all look the same -
> Over $1 per inch for brittle resin with widely variable QA.
> Contrast such a prospect with:
>
>
> $20 for 72in with no voids/ flash/ miscasts - and no dust.
> I chose the 3.25in width, but ime up to 6in wide is available.
>
> Playa
that would be good for tech canals.. but what about river looking
rivers...
The shriveled piece of celery in the bottom refridgerator bin
> Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
> I've been planning on forever and a day...)
Yes planning. I'm sure there are lots of other more profitable uses of your
time young man.
Myrmidon
3a2df7...@r24g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>, blackhear...@yahoo.com
says...
sections? The lowest part of the Technobridge is only about 8mm off the
ground. One could simply jack up the ends of the bridge a little if
needed. I gather from the description that they come pre-painted?
Might have to consider that as a time saving alternative to making my
own if I go for the 'natural' look, which I do like.
Myr
--
Ah, he's a physicist - he's unlikely to injure himself with
stuff he deals with every day and if he does *shrug*, its
only a physicist...
- Tim Fitzmaurice
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Myrmidon
rsin...@finger.hotmail.com says...
Myr :P
--
I actually have all the strategic acumen of a russet potato...
- Chris Jones
Myrmidon
@a31g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>, johnpau...@gmail.com says...
How tall is the lip on the Panduit, and how thick? I can't really
get an idea from the picture, though the concept is sneaky and simple.
I'd probably go for the 6 inch wide myself (if I could find the link on
their site - search engine there seems a bit wonky).
Thanks for the suggestion.
Myrmidon :)
--
As for hookers, I play GW Games. I don't have money to spend
on unnecessary sex.
- Kevin Milner
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Playa
Hey,
On Nov 4, 2:45 am, Blackheart <blackheart666_2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> what about river looking rivers
These are traditionally made from plaster, which costs pennies.
Often the 'banks' are textured with dirt, which is free.
HTH
Playa
Borscope
> while the building kits aren't bad, they've just never grabbed me
> either. That said, I've looked at the Tech bridge and decided to grab
> one ($15) and see how well it would work with my other 40K terrain.
>
> Answer - quite well. While not very high in terms of space under the
> main bridge span, it's suitably long (12 inches) with enough width (6.5
> in between the railings) to easily accommodate a Land Raider or a pair
> of Dreads side by side. The detailing is decent, and the model is
> incredibly simple to assemble. Add battle damage and a mimimal paint job
> and it would look excellent in a cityfight or wilderness tabletop setup.
> I'm planning on priming mine black, and then use spray metallics before
> adding some weathering and mud. Should take an a hour, maybe 90 minutes
> tops to add another nice piece to my collection.
>
> Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
> I've been planning on forever and a day...)
Pegasus makes rivers as well
Moramarth
> I've seen some of Pegasus Hobbies' kits at the FLGS for a while now, and
> while the building kits aren't bad, they've just never grabbed me
> either.
of the others, plus a ruins set, half of which I gave away
(contents=two identical frames).
Did it so I could paint them up in one go in a uniform manner. Still
haven't finished relieving the locating holes so it fits together
properly, but the set has had only one outing, as a single Apocalypse-
scale building: a roofless Cathederal to boot, complete with isles, a
nave with internal columns, and a tower suspended above the centre by
flying butresses. Add some plasticard floors and it will be complete
(there are bits provided to support them). While it can be totally
dismantled, I suspect I'll have it permanently semi-constructed in
flat-pack format because otherwise the set-up time will be silly,
especially if you want to block all the spare locating holes with the
bits provided (mainly masonry plugs, but also statues, gargoyles,
torches, and lanterns). It cost a lot (no discount at the FLGS, but I
still want to support them) but is feckin' 'uge. One comment was you
could fight a battle INSIDE it - you might have to, it takes up thet
much of a ordinary-sized table...
That said, I've looked at the Tech bridge and decided to grab
> one ($15) and see how well it would work with my other 40K terrain.
>
> Answer - quite well. While not very high in terms of space under the
> main bridge span, it's suitably long (12 inches) with enough width (6.5
> in between the railings) to easily accommodate a Land Raider
>
> Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
> I've been planning on forever and a day...)
Draw up your design on a same-sized piece of paper first to minimise
wastage -- you should be able to get sections which share common
sides. Trace this onto to your clear plastic with whiteboard marker.
Turn over and on the reverse airbrush a broad feather- edged deep blue
line down what would be the deepest part of the river channel. Then
overspray a slightly wider, more greenish tone. Repeat several times
with tones suitable for shallowing water. Seal with a coat of a
neutral colour such as grey primer. Add a thick varnish coat for
protection. Cut out sections. Turn over. On the right side wipe off
Whiteboard marker lines. Paint edges to match your terrain, use PVA
to flock same, it's OK to run over onto the river surface a bit with
the PVA, it dries clear and the static Grass etc., can look like
reeds. Did mine a couple of decades ago and they're still giving good
service.
>
Cheers,
> Myrmidon 0_o
>
Blackheart
> In article <783559d6-cbbf-4a79-88a4-
> 3a2df74eb...@r24g2000yqd.googlegroups.com>, blackheart666_2...@yahoo.com
i'm not sure if it's pre-painted or not. I think some of it has the
option to be.
Myrmidon
5c2422...@f16g2000yqm.googlegroups.com>, donovan...@yahoo.com
says...
looks like. I tend to want to look at it first. Any good links?
Myr
--
"I'm already impoverished from buying wargames minis,
and I'm too knackered for riotous living..."
-- Moramarth
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
Myrmidon
2efa2f...@r5g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>,
Mora...@moramarth.demon.co.uk says...
> On 4 Nov, 01:50, Myrmidon <Im...@home.com> wrote:
> > I've seen some of Pegasus Hobbies' kits at the FLGS for a while now, and
> > while the building kits aren't bad, they've just never grabbed me
> > either.
> I went apeshit on those last year - two of the big buildings, one each
> of the others, plus a ruins set, half of which I gave away
> (contents=two identical frames).
> Did it so I could paint them up in one go in a uniform manner. Still
> haven't finished relieving the locating holes so it fits together
> properly, but the set has had only one outing, as a single Apocalypse-
> scale building: a roofless Cathederal to boot, complete with isles, a
> nave with internal columns, and a tower suspended above the centre by
> flying butresses. Add some plasticard floors and it will be complete
> (there are bits provided to support them). While it can be totally
> dismantled, I suspect I'll have it permanently semi-constructed in
> flat-pack format because otherwise the set-up time will be silly,
> especially if you want to block all the spare locating holes with the
> bits provided (mainly masonry plugs, but also statues, gargoyles,
> torches, and lanterns). It cost a lot (no discount at the FLGS, but I
> still want to support them) but is feckin' 'uge. One comment was you
> could fight a battle INSIDE it - you might have to, it takes up thet
> much of a ordinary-sized table...
Heh! I'll take that as an endorsement. :) My buddy is trying to
get me to make a giant building that takes up 2/3rds of my gaming table
too.
> >That said, I've looked at the Tech bridge and decided to grab
> > one ($15) and see how well it would work with my other 40K terrain.
> >
> > Answer - quite well. While not very high in terms of space under the
> > main bridge span, it's suitably long (12 inches) with enough width (6.5
> > in between the railings) to easily accommodate a Land Raider
> It specifies on the box it can accommodate a "Dirt Plunderer"...
> >
> > Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
> > I've been planning on forever and a day...)
> Big sheet of clear plasticard - the one I used was nearly A3 sized.
> Draw up your design on a same-sized piece of paper first to minimise
> wastage -- you should be able to get sections which share common
> sides. Trace this onto to your clear plastic with whiteboard marker.
> Turn over and on the reverse airbrush a broad feather- edged deep blue
> line down what would be the deepest part of the river channel. Then
> overspray a slightly wider, more greenish tone. Repeat several times
> with tones suitable for shallowing water. Seal with a coat of a
> neutral colour such as grey primer. Add a thick varnish coat for
> protection. Cut out sections. Turn over. On the right side wipe off
> Whiteboard marker lines. Paint edges to match your terrain, use PVA
> to flock same, it's OK to run over onto the river surface a bit with
> the PVA, it dries clear and the static Grass etc., can look like
> reeds. Did mine a couple of decades ago and they're still giving good
> service.
> >
> Cheers,
Now that's just plain a kick ass idea. And oddly enough I happen
to have an air-brush. How did you design your pieces so that all the
ends fit together reasonably well?
Myrmidon
--
All good (color) choices, but they don't carry the impact of the #7
"Over-ripe bananagaunt." Nothing says fear the tyranids like slightly
aged fruit.
-Maka
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Rehlow
> In article <26a2f403-e2af-4f63-8fb1-
> 2efa2fab1...@r5g2000yqb.googlegroups.com>,
> Morama...@moramarth.demon.co.uk says...
>
> > > Now I just have to make some river sections to go with it. (Something
> > > I've been planning on forever and a day...)
> > Big sheet of clear plasticard - the one I used was nearly A3 sized.
> > Draw up your design on a same-sized piece of paper first to minimise
> > wastage -- you should be able to get sections which share common
> > sides. Trace this onto to your clear plastic with whiteboard marker.
> > Turn over and on the reverse airbrush a broad feather- edged deep blue
> > line down what would be the deepest part of the river channel. Then
> > overspray a slightly wider, more greenish tone. Repeat several times
> > with tones suitable for shallowing water. Seal with a coat of a
> > neutral colour such as grey primer. Add a thick varnish coat for
> > protection. Cut out sections. Turn over. On the right side wipe off
> > Whiteboard marker lines. Paint edges to match your terrain, use PVA
> > to flock same, it's OK to run over onto the river surface a bit with
> > the PVA, it dries clear and the static Grass etc., can look like
> > reeds. Did mine a couple of decades ago and they're still giving good
> > service.
>
> > Cheers,
>
> Now that's just plain a kick ass idea. And oddly enough I happen
> to have an air-brush. How did you design your pieces so that all the
> ends fit together reasonably well?
>
I haven't tried it, but my guess would be to make sure all of your
straight edges are of uniform length. The water colors might not line
up perfectly, but if you are reasonably consistent with your color
pattern it should be close enough.
I have a bottle of something called Water Effects that I got awhile
back but haven't tried out yet. I would imagine that could be applied
to the top side to create rapids and currents.
Since I also have an airbrush and have been wanting to make some
rivers for awhile I might have to try this. Rivers of sludge and waste
could also be done with the right color patterns as well.
Later,
~Rehlow
Moramarth
> Now that's just plain a kick ass idea. And oddly enough I happen
> to have an air-brush. How did you design your pieces so that all the
> ends fit together reasonably well?
OK, this (as far as I can recall) is how I did it. Work off one basic
dimension (W) which is the desired width of your river: this may be a
minimum distance defined by the rule system you are using – just make
sure your opponent accepts distances are from the edge of the terrain
piece, not “just the blue bit”). Set up a piece of paper (or better,
thin card) of the same size as your sheet(s) of clear plastic in
landscape format (I’m assuming it will be rectangular). Between the
top two corners draw a shallow sinuous line touching the top edge at
several equidistant points, but preferably with its furthest point
from the top edge being exactly in the middle of the top edge. If you
use card you can now cut along this line and use the off-cut as a
ruler for setting out the rest of your lines. Measure the distance W
down from the top corners on each side, and draw the same line exactly
parallel to the first. Measure the distance W down from the previous
points W to provide a second identical length of river (you may wish
to divide this exactly in two). Repeat the process until you are
about half way down the sheet, you may wish to make the last distance
about one-third W to produce a stream section. These sections are
essentially straight but the wavy edge stops them looking like canals
- it's a compromise between realism and utility (as usual), but one of
the more successful ones.
When you are about halfway down the sheet, measure the distance from
the bottom edge to the lowest point on your lowest sinuous line.
Measure this distance from one bottom corner along the bottom edge and
from the same bottom corner up the side edge, use these to set out a
square, divide this with a diagonal. From one corner the diagonal
touches, draw an arc using the length of the square edge as a radius.
From the corner this radius touches, measure back the distance W and
draw a parallel arc. Repeat this to give you 180 degrees of corners
on two different radii. Draw a fourth arc (and a fifth, if there’s
room) using the width of any stream sections instead of W to give you
some stream corners.
Use the rectangular area to the side of the square area to produce
more river “Straight” sections to width W (and stream lengths). These
can use the same form as the ones above and butt against them, or use
a different spacing between “Crests”. Utilising any left over space
at the bottom, modify (at least) two short sections so the stream
sections can join the river at around a 45-degree angle, make one left-
handed and one right handed.
In use I join the sections with clear Sellotape on the top (unpainted,
clear) side; this protects the painted underside. Over the years mine
have lost their flocking and are now edged with gobs of tube artists
acrylics in various unsuitable shades, but have otherwise worn well.
HTH
>
Cheers,
> Myrmidon
Moramarth
Moramarth
>
> I have a bottle of something called Water Effects that I got awhile
> back but haven't tried out yet. I would imagine that could be applied
> to the top side to create rapids and currents.
section) as then I don't have to remember to orient all the sections
so the current is flowing in the same direction...
>
> Since I also have an airbrush and have been wanting to make some
> rivers for awhile I might have to try this. Rivers of sludge and waste
> could also be done with the right color patterns as well.
angular "slime channels" incised into them - currently they're just
dull green with variant-shaded streaks, I keep meaning to gloss them
up with a glaze with metallic particles in it, but this seems to have
gone OOP...
>
>
Regards,
> ~Rehlow
Moramarth
Minty fresh
> Yes, like corrupting the youth and whatnot...
probably the wrong season for whatnots in your part of the world.
smithdoerr
"Myrmidon" <Im...@home.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.255aa7df8...@news.eternal-september.org...
>
> I've seen some of Pegasus Hobbies' kits at the FLGS for a while now, and
> while the building kits aren't bad, they've just never grabbed me
> either. That said, I've looked at the Tech bridge and decided to grab
> one ($15) and see how well it would work with my other 40K terrain.
<snip>
So where are the pictures?
--
-smithdoerr