[Paint, SH, WH40K] Genestealers
Trust No One
I am painting Genestealers and I am just going by what the WH40K Painting
Guide says. I thought I'd pass my ideas along and see if anyone has any
suggestions.
First, does GW still make Worm Purple and Moody Blue? I was in my local
Chapter Approved store and did not see either.
Anyway, what I have are those dropper bottles that let you squeeze out a
drop of the paint at a time. That way I can mix colors easily and get the
same amout each time. So, I drop 1 drop of each (Moody Blue, Chaos Black,
and Skull White) onto my palette. I then add a drop of water. So, I have
a 3:1 paint:water ratio. Does that sound about right? It works okay so
far. I guess I add more as I dip my mixing brush in water before mixing,
so maybe it is a 2:1 ratio.
The guide says to paint the carapace first and then do the skin Worm
Purple. I have found it easier to paint the skin first as it has some
small spots that get purple allover the carapace. Or, it may be that I
suck at painting. I also do not glue the arms on until after painting. It
is easier for me to paint the arms off the body.
Now, I am getting to use inks for washes. Do I need to add water to the
inks? They look fairly watery to me already.
Does anyone else wash their plastic minis before painting? The guide says
to because a release fluid is sprayed into the mould for plastic minis.
Any hints on painting the damn teeth and eyes? They look real nice in the
guide but they do not explaing how they did them. Also, are highlighting
and drybrushing the same thing?
One day my stealers for Space Hulk and WH40K will be painted...
Thanks.
TN1
--
Trust No One "The Truth Is Out There"
Heavy Gear: http://osf1.gmu.edu/~mcox3/hg.html
DP9's Heavy Gear: http://www.dp9.com
Heavy Gear Fighter: http://osf1.gmu.edu/~mcox3/hgf.html
Mad Al
In article <Pine.OSF.3.91.970112...@osf1.gmu.edu>, Trust No One <mc...@osf1.gmu.edu> wrote:
>I am painting Genestealers and I am just going by what the WH40K Painting
>Guide says. I thought I'd pass my ideas along and see if anyone has any
>suggestions.
>
>First, does GW still make Worm Purple and Moody Blue? I was in my local
>Chapter Approved store and did not see either.
According to the colour chart printed on the back of the painting guide that
comes in the Citadel Color Paint Set (10 paints plus a plastic marine and
plastic chaos warrior, and a standard brush)...
No, there are no longer colours called "Worm Purple" or "Moody Blue".
They renamed a bunch of the colours, and re-mixed others, so you sort of have
to just look through the rack and find whatever is close to the colour you
want...
>Now, I am getting to use inks for washes. Do I need to add water to the
>inks? They look fairly watery to me already.
Actually, I was wondering that myself. I haven't used any washes yet (I
haven't started painting my growing Chaos army yet... I really suck at getting
around to painting them...)
>One day my stealers for Space Hulk and WH40K will be painted...
>
>Thanks.
>
>TN1
------------------------(Mad Al)-----------------------
------- WARNING: for external use only -------
------- if ingested, induce vomiting -------
------------------(cf...@torfree.net)------------------
Egar
Trust No One <mc...@osf1.gmu.edu> wrote:
>I am painting Genestealers and I am just going by what the WH40K Painting
>Guide says. I thought I'd pass my ideas along and see if anyone has any
>suggestions.
>First, does GW still make Worm Purple and Moody Blue? I was in my local
>Chapter Approved store and did not see either.
>Anyway, what I have are those dropper bottles that let you squeeze out a
>drop of the paint at a time. That way I can mix colors easily and get the
>same amout each time. So, I drop 1 drop of each (Moody Blue, Chaos Black,
>and Skull White) onto my palette. I then add a drop of water. So, I have
>a 3:1 paint:water ratio. Does that sound about right? It works okay so
>far. I guess I add more as I dip my mixing brush in water before mixing,
>so maybe it is a 2:1 ratio.
>The guide says to paint the carapace first and then do the skin Worm
>Purple. I have found it easier to paint the skin first as it has some
>small spots that get purple allover the carapace. Or, it may be that I
>suck at painting. I also do not glue the arms on until after painting. It
>is easier for me to paint the arms off the body.
>Now, I am getting to use inks for washes. Do I need to add water to the
>inks? They look fairly watery to me already.
>Does anyone else wash their plastic minis before painting? The guide says
>to because a release fluid is sprayed into the mould for plastic minis.
>Any hints on painting the damn teeth and eyes? They look real nice in the
>guide but they do not explaing how they did them. Also, are highlighting
>and drybrushing the same thing?
>One day my stealers for Space Hulk and WH40K will be painted...
>Thanks.
>TN1
>--
>Trust No One "The Truth Is Out There"
> Heavy Gear: http://osf1.gmu.edu/~mcox3/hg.html
> DP9's Heavy Gear: http://www.dp9.com
>Heavy Gear Fighter: http://osf1.gmu.edu/~mcox3/hgf.html
What I did was leave the blue color and paint on plum which turned to
purple because I never primed it. Then bleached bone for the claws
and teeth then blood red for the tonge and eyes. The look great (the
3 I have finished) and paint up real quick.
Andrew Breecher
Trust No One (mc...@osf1.gmu.edu) wrote:
: Now, I am getting to use inks for washes. Do I need to add water to the
: inks? They look fairly watery to me already.
It's up to you, and depends on what you're doing. When doing a sloppy
wash over a large area I thin the inks a lot, so they're almost twice as
watery. When doing a detailed wash (which I usually do my mixing and then
thinning my own paint rather than using the bottled inks) I use the ink as
is, since I'm putting it on with a fine-detail brush and it goes where I
want it anyway.
: Does anyone else wash their plastic minis before painting? The guide says
: to because a release fluid is sprayed into the mould for plastic minis.
This is a good idea. You should wash metal as well.
: Any hints on painting the damn teeth and eyes? They look real nice in the
: guide but they do not explaing how they did them. Also, are highlighting
: and drybrushing the same thing?
For teeth paint them bone first, then do a very thin wash over them in brown
or black, then highlight them with a lighter shade of the bone (Elf Flesh,
maybe?).
Drybrushing is done by putting paint on the tip of a brush, wiping most of it
off, and then brushing the figure. Highlighting is done with a fine-detail
brush with wet paint, and is adding very precise spots of a lighter shade
over what you've painted.
--
Andrew Breecher.
ham...@eznet.net -- http://home.eznet.net/~hamlet
"To sleep - perchance to dream"
Doug Arnott
Trust No One <mc...@osf1.gmu.edu> wrote:
> I am painting Genestealers and I am just going by what the WH40K Painting
> Guide says. I thought I'd pass my ideas along and see if anyone has any
> suggestions.
Many, many months ago, I white-primed my big monsters of my Tyranid army
and assembled them for play. About a week ago, I brought out a Carniflex
and started to think about a colour scheme.
Purple. This was the colour base for my big monsters. I painted the
entire body of the Carniflex with Liche Purple (I believe it is Liche
Purple, I will have to check.) I excluded the head and the claws and
the armour plates on the feet as I will paint these white. Since the
Carniflex was assembled, I had to twist and turn the Carniflex to
find unpainted areas. A second coat was needed. When I put the second
coat of Liche Purple on, the Carniflex started to look cartoony. I put
it aside and brought out another Carniflex. (Yep, two. Human, are you
getting scared already?) I tried a base coat of Worm Purple on my second
Carniflex and it was all right so far. I will have to put a second
coat of Worm Purple on before I judge the result.
I put a base coat of Striking Scorpion Green on a Lictor. I copied
this idea from a friend of my mine because I liked the colour and
green seemed more appropriate for an infiltrator. (By the way, my
Lictor is non-standard. I do not like the current model of the Lictor.
So, I put a Lictor head and spines on an old Tyranid warrior body,
not the slouching new one as I dislike it also.) I will try the
dark green of Ork Flesh for the armour plates after the second coat
of Striking Scorpion Green.
This is where I am so far for my big monsters in my Tyranid army.
> First, does GW still make Worm Purple and Moody Blue? I was in my local
> Chapter Approved store and did not see either.
There is none of those colours in the local gaming stores here. I bought
vial bottles of Worm Purple and Moody Blue about 2-3 years ago.
Likewise, I bought a vial bottle of Blue-Grey paint and liked the colour
for my marines. Now, I realize that it is out of production at this time
like Ork Flesh and Striking Scorpion Green.
> Anyway, what I have are those dropper bottles that let you squeeze out a
> drop of the paint at a time. That way I can mix colors easily and get the
> same amout each time. So, I drop 1 drop of each (Moody Blue, Chaos Black,
> and Skull White) onto my palette. I then add a drop of water. So, I have
> a 3:1 paint:water ratio. Does that sound about right? It works okay so
> far. I guess I add more as I dip my mixing brush in water before mixing,
> so maybe it is a 2:1 ratio.
I use the vial bottles of Citadel paint. I do not think that I have ever
seen the dropper bottles in the local gaming stores that you mention.
Before I paint, I give the vial bottle a little shake and open the top.
There is a drip edge underneath the top where I dab my brush to get the
paint. I do this rather than sticking the brush inside the bottle because
I have trouble at times with some dark colours of just how far I have
pushed the tip of the brush in. Every 5-7 minutes, I have to reseal the
cap and shake the bottle to refresh this pool of paint due to drying.
> The guide says to paint the carapace first and then do the skin Worm
> Purple. I have found it easier to paint the skin first as it has some
> small spots that get purple allover the carapace. Or, it may be that I
> suck at painting.
For me, the knowledge that I needed was to learn which colours require
two coats over a primer as opposed to one, which cover another colour
in one coat, and which colours (Sunburst Yellow) require a coat of Skull
White before you coat another colour.
Most of the time, I paint the areas of Sunburst Yellow and Red Gore first
over the white primer with reckless abandon. Then, with a small brush, I
can push a "wave" of another colour over the excess of the yellow and
red colour.
With an assembled model such as Carniflex, I am painting the base coat
first. Other colours such as yellow and red will be added afterwards.
And, I will consciously forget about adding different colours in obscure
and unreachable places.
> I also do not glue the arms on until after painting. It
> is easier for me to paint the arms off the body.
I cannot disagree with you here. The only thing is that I never knew
when I would find the time to paint so I am painting now with an
assembled model.
> Now, I am getting to use inks for washes. Do I need to add water to the
> inks? They look fairly watery to me already.
I have not used washes or inks. I do not have the talent to get applause
from my painting so I stayed away from these. I paint just to get some
colour on the table top other than lead, pewter and snow white.
> Does anyone else wash their plastic minis before painting? The guide says
> to because a release fluid is sprayed into the mould for plastic minis.
I have done it once or twice.
> Any hints on painting the damn teeth and eyes? They look real nice in the
> guide but they do not explaing how they did them. Also, are highlighting
> and drybrushing the same thing?
>
> One day my stealers for Space Hulk and WH40K will be painted...
I started this GW hobby with Space Hulk. I got tired of the no-
paint look of the genestealers. I spray painted the Genestealers
with black primer. I painted the teeth-tongue area and claws with
Skull White. Afterwards, I painted the tongue with Red Gore and
literally "dotted the eye" with a small drop of Red Gore. The
droplet on the eye had enough pigment in it to cover the black
primer. The genestealers still seemed naked with only the black
primer covering their body but I did not have the time or the
energy to individually paint all of their bodies.
When the Tyranid codex came out and I wanted to build a Tyranid
army, I needed more genestealers and a horde of Termagants. A
Termagant is 6 points each and a squad of 16 is 96 points. For
three squads, I needed 48 Termagants. I had to figure there was
some way to put colour on these creatures without dedicating the
rest of the leisure time in my life to painting them, after all,
the main intent is to play the game. I saw a wide range of spray
enamels in one of the hobby stores. Small spray cans for $4 each.
I did not attach the bases to the Termagants but I attached the
heads. Before I sprayed the Termagants, I covered the base tabs
with masking tape such that I did not have to scape the paint off
to glue the Termagants to their bases. I sprayed the Termagants
with the enamel and it ran somewhat off the ridges and into the
groves. Damn. Oh, well. I just had to take things slowly and spray
using thin layers. The enamel takes a lot longer to dry and still
remains sticky and tacky for days. I sprayed the bases with a can
of Dark Green. I like the high glossy finish of the enamel on the
Termagents. (I have no idea as to the durability of the enamel.)
When it came time to spray paint the Genestealers. I sprayed the
Genestealers with black primer first. Then, I sprayed them with
the enamel. Even though there still was a tendency for the paint
to run off the ridges and into the groves, at least the ridges were
dark and added to the effect rather than detracted as in the case
with the Termagants. However, the overall effect with the black
primer was that the colour on the Genestealers was darker than the
intended colour. But, still glossy.
Some of the acrylic paints cover the enamel all right, for example,
Chaos Black, Skull White. But, a lot of them run off. So, if you
use the bulk enamel spraying method and you want to paint with
acrylics, then resign yourself that you will have to paint an area
with Skull White first. But, I still cheat and blob the eye with a
droplet of Red Gore and let the droplet contract with drying.
I think I still have the spray cans around somewhere. If you want
me do to this, I will post the colours that I used.
Doug
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Standard Disclaimer: These are my views and opinions.
Leman Russ
Has anyone else noticed that the GW sprays are EXTREMELY powdery after
spraying the 1st 20 minis??
Any tips on how to avoid this??