(40K) Tips on building/painting Exorcist?
Ryan Elkins
bad boys (girls?) from GW. It was cheaper for me to get it from them than to
get one off of Ebay.
So, has anyone built one of these before, and if so, any tips or "heads-up"
on putting it together? Like," Make totally sure you do X before Y, no
matter what the instruction sheet says." or, " Paint X, Y and Z before
putting it together, otherwise you'll hate yourself when you try and paint
it."
I've built enough vehicles to know most of the things to avoid, but I'd
appreciate any guidance on this, as I dont want to end up with a US$55.00
pile of crap.
Cheers
drgrbek
James Simpson
<rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote:
>So, has anyone built one of these before, and if so, any tips or "heads-up"
>on putting it together?
I presume you're asking about the fancy Pipe Organ version with all
the Pewter pieces not the Forge World version with resin pieces.
Test fit all the pewter pieces. They tend to warp. But you already
knew that. :-) Try to find some pictures of assembled Exorcists or
better yet, find one you can look at up close and personal. You
definitely want a better idea of how everything fits together than
just the instructions. Be prepared to use a rubber hammer and a couple
slabs of flat wood to help unwarp some pieces without flattening them.
Glue the back door of the Rhino Chassis SHUT and let it set overnight.
You need all the strength you can get back there with all the weight
of the Pipes centered on the rear section of your tank.
Glue the round Missile Bay (where the Servitor is busy loading) to the
underside of the Exorcist 'roof' as a separate stage so the weight of
the pewter piece doesn't warp the plastic piece. I used Super Glue to
glue the pewter piece in, pressed VERY hard to get it to pop into
place and let it set overnight. I then smeared some 5 minute Epoxy
around the joint on the inside to make certain it will NEVER fall
inside the completed tank. After that set overnight, I glued the roof
on top of the Rhino Chassis and let it set overnight while upside
down..
Use a 5 minute Epoxy to glue the 3 sections of pipes to the horseshoe
shaped piece and each other. Do the same for the podium/keyboard
pieces. This will help fill in the inevitable gaps. Leave the Missile
Rack at the back of the Podium as a separate piece for painting then
use 5 minute Epoxy to glue it in place at the end.
I found the Keyboard a real bear to paint when assembled but didn't
have the skill to paint all the podium pieces separate then Epoxy them
together ESPECIALLY since I wasn't certain how everything was supposed
to go together even when test fitting with bluetack to hold stuff
together while I checked. In the end, I simply smeared some 5 minute
Epoxy on the parts I knew had to touch and relied on the Epoxy to
slowly set while I fiddled with the podium. Eventually, everything
seemed to pop into position. Perhaps you have more skill and will be
able to paint the Keyboard before assembling the Podium.
Glue the Servitor and Musician together but do NOT glue them in place.
Paint them separate. This will also help when painting the inside of
the areas where they'll eventually stand. I even hardcoated them
separately.
I painted all the Side and Front panels separately then Super Glued
them in place during final assembly mostly because I didn't want to
mess with trying to paint the edges of each piece. Painting them
separate also allowed me to hold them at weird angles while smearing
paint in all the nooks and cranneys.
Do you want to be able to field your Exorcist as an Immolator and/or a
Rhino? If so, you'll want the back Pipes piece, Servitor, and Podium
piece to be removable If not, consider making the back Pipes piece
removable for ease of transport. If you want your Exorcist to be one
piece at the end, consider pinning the horseshoe piece to the Exorcist
'roof' (after the steps I mentioned earlier) then pinning the pipes to
the horseshoe piece. That SHOULD hold the back end together.
Be prepared to spend a LONG time on your Exorcist. I take about a week
to finish 5 Space Marines. It took me an entire month to finish my
Exorcist and that doesn't count the week I spend filing and pounding
pieces between test fittings. Good Luck. The end result, though, is
worth all the time spent on a spectacular model.
If you REALLY want to E-mail me, just remove the CU2 from my address.
Ryan Elkins
"James Simpson" <taml...@sasktel.net> wrote in message
news:440e7ecd...@news.sasktel.net...
Excellent!! This is >exactly< what I was looking for! I'll definitely take
your advice regarding taking my time to make sure everything is the correct
shape and also build it in stages, letting everything set before the next
stage.
Do you think that GS and superglue together would make a good substitute for
the 5-min. epoxy? I've used that combo on plastic-to-metal before, but not
on things as big and as heavy as some of the Exorcist pieces.
Again, many thanks!
drgrbek
James Simpson
I'm not sure. I have attempted to use GreenStuff to hold pieces while
superglue set and simply made a mess. I mostly use GS to fill in gaps
and slotta bases. I do know some people who have great results using
GS and superglue combined but they don't have an Exorcist.
Before I started, I asked those who had finished Exorcists how they
did theirs and found most either pinned the pipes to the horseshoe
piece or used 5 minute epoxy to turn it into one solid piece. I also
got to hear horror stories about how large pewter figures that were
superglued and dropped would shatter into their original pieces and
would never quite fit back together the way they used to. Epoxied
figures, however, tended to go THUD, stayed in one piece and required
only minor unbending and touchups of paint chips. Having dropped a
heavy bolter space marine that was superglued, I can confirm that you
pick up the original pieces and they never glue back together they way
they originally did.
An Exorcist is supposed to be an ancient, cranky work of art so in the
long run, it won't really matter if the pieces don't exactly fit
whether because you had problems assembling the model or it had an
accident. Since I wanted to avoid having to find all the pieces of a
shattered model, was having problems getting pewter pieces to fit
together, and having never pinned anything, I decided to try 5 minute
epoxy. I had never epoxied anything before and found it quite messy.
But it took a long time to set which allowed me time to fiddle with
complex pieces like the podium. A damp paper towel is able to wipe
away any exess epoxy but only if you're able to get at the area. I
found a toothpick helped get rid of excess epoxy in those hard to
reach places.
Even after LOTS of careful filing, the underside of the 3 pipes pieces
were still somewhat rough and concave. Epoxy filled in all the gaps
and did indeed make 4 pieces into one solid piece. True, I did have
some epoxy oozing out between cracks and wasn't able to wipe it all
away but after priming, it wasn't very noticable. Since it was right
at the base where the pipes touch the horseshoe piece it actually
looks like the techpriests that built the tank used too much solder
rather than a mistake on my part.
So a combination of GS and superglue may work but I wouldn't know.
I wanted a modular tank that could be fielded as an Exorcist,
Immolator, or fancy Rhino so Ididn't glue the horseshoe piece to the
'roof' of the Exorcist. This has made transport very easy but is
rather risky when eager young players want to pick the tank up to get
a closer look. I also have to store the model in pieces so it doesn't
stick together.
Ryan Elkins
Even more info! Great!!
I'm really looking forward to building it almost as much as I'm looking
forward to fielding it!
drgrbek
Ryan Elkins
local GW store.
So I call today, just seeing if it has been delivered, and lo and behold it
turns out that somehow during the ordering process they goofed the order.
Instead of ordering the Immolator sprue I wanted, they ordered me the
entire Immolator! So, looks like I just paid US$15.00 for a US$40.00 box.
And the store gets billed for the difference, not me.
Sweet!
drgrbek.
Scott McDaniel
"Ryan Elkins" <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
news:duqh9k$nqi$1...@gnus01.u.washington.edu...
I have never had GW get an order correct.
Never.
One time they sent me something some poor slob in Pennsyltucky had ordered.
Sometimes it works to your advantage (congrats), most times it does not.
That said, GW has also taken care of every problem I have had with my
orders.
--
Sir Scott "Good luck next time... " McDaniel
(BTW: I got a hold of above mentioned slob, got his address, and sent the
package to him. It was returned as "Address Unknown". Even the postal
service is in cahoots with GW Mail Order)
Ryan Elkins
"Scott McDaniel" <smcda...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:uPOSf.1242$123.21@fed1read09...
Yes, GW is good at mucking orders up, but they are also good at fixing them.
FYI, I started on my Exorcist this weekend. I have a feeling that this will
be a project that is done in small bits, as I had to repeatedly resist the
urge to throw the f!*$king U-shaped base the pipes sit on at the wall. Man,
you weren't kidding when you said that it would be warped!
It took me (I kid you not) 3 HOURS to get it straight-ish! Even then, its
still ever so slightly off true.
Ohm.........Ohm...........Good thoughts in...........Don't throw it, cause
you'll never find it............and then you'll really be
screwed........Ohm.....
drgrbek
smithdoerr
> FYI, I started on my Exorcist this weekend. I have a feeling that this
> will be a project that is done in small bits, as I had to repeatedly
> resist the urge to throw the f!*$king U-shaped base the pipes sit on at
> the wall. Man, you weren't kidding when you said that it would be warped!
> It took me (I kid you not) 3 HOURS to get it straight-ish! Even then, its
> still ever so slightly off true.
Been there done that! Metal models with large sections that need to line up
will *never* line up right because the metal pieces warp as they cool after
being cast. Metal works fine for relatively small joints like shoulder or
neck joints on monster figures and such but stinks for large flat pieces
like on vehicles, as you now know.
Probably too late but here's a tips for working with metal pieces: If you
need to bend a piece use a hairdryer or hot water to heat it up so it bend
more easily. I've found that using a hairdryer is easier. Put the
hairdryer in a clamp pointed up and hold the piece to bend with two pliers
over it (the piece will get very hot so be careful not to burn yourself).
To avoid scarring the metal with the pliers put pieces of popsicle stick or
some other wood over the pliers' teeth held with a drop of superglue. When
you're done or need to replace the wood pieces they'll pop right off.
Make sure you have lots of putty :)
--
-smithdoerr
Myrmidon
askmef...@vodafone.it Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>
> "Ryan Elkins" <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
> news:dvml0p$18p$1...@gnus01.u.washington.edu...
>
> > FYI, I started on my Exorcist this weekend. I have a feeling that this
> > will be a project that is done in small bits, as I had to repeatedly
> > resist the urge to throw the f!*$king U-shaped base the pipes sit on at
> > the wall. Man, you weren't kidding when you said that it would be warped!
> > It took me (I kid you not) 3 HOURS to get it straight-ish! Even then, its
> > still ever so slightly off true.
>
> Been there done that! Metal models with large sections that need to line up
> will *never* line up right because the metal pieces warp as they cool after
> being cast. Metal works fine for relatively small joints like shoulder or
> neck joints on monster figures and such but stinks for large flat pieces
> like on vehicles, as you now know.
LOL! I'd watch 'Orange County Choppers' and always wondered why
the parts fit together perfectly until they went to the Polisher's shop.
And then of course they'd have a hell of a time getting the thing
together again. Apparently heat warps metal - who knew? :)
>
> Probably too late but here's a tips for working with metal pieces: If you
> need to bend a piece use a hairdryer or hot water to heat it up so it bend
> more easily. I've found that using a hairdryer is easier. Put the
> hairdryer in a clamp pointed up and hold the piece to bend with two pliers
> over it (the piece will get very hot so be careful not to burn yourself).
Like the hair-dry in a vise idea. Going to have to hork that one
for my own. ;)
> To avoid scarring the metal with the pliers put pieces of popsicle stick or
> some other wood over the pliers' teeth held with a drop of superglue. When
> you're done or need to replace the wood pieces they'll pop right off.
>
For my pliers, I just take masking tape and wrap it around both
ends to prevent the teeth from scarring the metal. I'll have to try the
popsicle trick (my wife has a load of them for use as name-tags / row
markers out in the garden).
> Make sure you have lots of putty :)
The more I work with 'Magic Sculpt' - the more I like the stuff.
Myrmidon
--
And I want someone to slap me with a fish every time I buy something
new, assemble it, and then leave it unpainted for months.
- Jakearon
RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org
Or...
smithdoerr
"Myrmidon" <Im...@home.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1e88cf7b8...@news-server.woh.rr.com...
> In article <7Oednbm1aujJbYPZ...@comcast.com>, smithdoerr,
> askmef...@vodafone.it Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>> Probably too late but here's a tips for working with metal pieces: If
>> you
>> need to bend a piece use a hairdryer or hot water to heat it up so it
>> bend
>> more easily. I've found that using a hairdryer is easier. Put the
>> hairdryer in a clamp pointed up and hold the piece to bend with two
>> pliers
>> over it (the piece will get very hot so be careful not to burn yourself).
>
> Like the hair-dry in a vise idea. Going to have to hork that one
> for my own. ;)
Don't really need it for small pieces but for anything thicker than a 30mm
human's elbow it really helps. Works with plastic too. You could use
plasticard and bend your very own Frank Gehry 40k building for your next
terrain project!
>> Make sure you have lots of putty :)
>
> The more I work with 'Magic Sculpt' - the more I like the stuff.
Is it like green stuff?
--
-smithdoerr
Ryan Elkins
"smithdoerr" <askmef...@vodafone.it> wrote in message
news:7Oednbm1aujJbYPZ...@comcast.com...
Hmm, good to know for the future. I got the U to lay as flat as possible by
bending the arms bit by bit and spitting vulgarities under my breath. The
problem now is that the arms are just *that* much too close together, and I
tried once to pull them apart. HA!! I need the Jaws of Life to get those
arms opened up! If I can steal it w/o the wife knowing, I'll try the
hair-dryer and see how that works. I dry fitted all the other pieces, and it
looks like I lucked out, as they all fit together nicely.
Filthy words and Bloody fingers,
drgrbek
Robert Singers
[snip]
> Been there done that! Metal models with large sections that need to
> line up will *never* line up right because the metal pieces warp as
> they cool after being cast. Metal works fine for relatively small
> joints like shoulder or neck joints on monster figures and such but
> stinks for large flat pieces like on vehicles, as you now know.
>
> Probably too late but here's a tips for working with metal pieces: If
> you need to bend a piece use a hairdryer or hot water to heat it up so
> it bend more easily.
Back in the day I soldered together a whole bunch of them Khornite demon
thingamees and a bunch of Ork custom jobs. Worked very well accept one
where I heated the mini far too much. The metal mix is a lot harder now
so it propably works better. The benefit of solder was that I could
build up and hide the joints. It would be interesting to see how well
it works on what you're talking about.
--
Rob Singers
RGMW FAQ Maintainer. See it @ http://www.rgmw.org
Foemina Erit Ruina Tua
jockelinde
>
> "Ryan Elkins" <rel...@u.washington.edu> wrote in message
> news:dvml0p$18p$1...@gnus01.u.washington.edu...
>
>> FYI, I started on my Exorcist this weekend. I have a feeling that this
>> will be a project that is done in small bits, as I had to repeatedly
>> resist the urge to throw the f!*$king U-shaped base the pipes sit on at
>> the wall. Man, you weren't kidding when you said that it would be warped!
>> It took me (I kid you not) 3 HOURS to get it straight-ish! Even then, its
>> still ever so slightly off true.
>
> Been there done that! Metal models with large sections that need to line up
> will *never* line up right because the metal pieces warp as they cool after
> being cast. Metal works fine for relatively small joints like shoulder or
> neck joints on monster figures and such but stinks for large flat pieces
> like on vehicles, as you now know.
I've recently assembled a Kroot Ox. The experience was about as
enjoyable as dropping a hammer on your toes.
*sigh*
--
Joakim
Ryan Elkins
"jockelinde" <nou...@notmydomain.se> wrote in message
news:slrne24t33...@crux.id.gu.se...
I feel your pain and can empathize totally. And I'll ignore the fact that
you are a heretic, what with your intimate knowledge of filthy xenos scum,
and spare you the Emperors' cleansing fire. :) I made myself finish my
Immolator before picking up "The Beast" again, so I would have time to
de-aggro and not be tempted to be huck it against the wall.
Next up: Getting the missle tubes/pipes to lie flush w/ the base and each
other.
Wish me luck!
drgrbek
Matt C
Well, I think you should both quit complaining until you've assembled
the same damn steam tank 3 times
jockelinde
<snip>
> Well, I think you should both quit complaining until you've assembled
> the same damn steam tank 3 times
If the steam tank is as cheesy as it is supposed to be you deserve
everything you get!
;-)
--
Joakim
Craig Little
"Matt C" <ne...@gonna.happen.co.uk> wrote in message
news:Xns9790485EC32E1ne...@194.117.143.38...
Fyp.
jockelinde
>
> "jockelinde" <nou...@notmydomain.se> wrote in message
> news:slrne24t33...@crux.id.gu.se...
<snip>
>> I've recently assembled a Kroot Ox. The experience was about as
>> enjoyable as dropping a hammer on your toes.
>> *sigh*
>
> I feel your pain and can empathize totally. And I'll ignore the fact that
> you are a heretic, what with your intimate knowledge of filthy xenos scum,
> and spare you the Emperors' cleansing fire. :)
Don't worry, I'm not always in a heretical xeno mood. My Salamanders
allow me to distribute the Emperor's cleansing fire when I'm in the
mood for that.
> I made myself finish my
> Immolator before picking up "The Beast" again, so I would have time to
> de-aggro and not be tempted to be huck it against the wall.
> Next up: Getting the missle tubes/pipes to lie flush w/ the base and each
> other.
> Wish me luck!
Just remember that hitting the wall will ...um re-warp the pieces and
you'll be fine.
--
Joakim
Ryan Elkins
Well, I managed to get through filing and cleaning all the metal bitz, and
did get the pipes to at least dry-fit together 98% flush with each other and
the base. Just need to GS a bit here and there. I was going to try and
assemble the keyboard and pulpit, but halfway through dry-fitting, I had a
vision. It was of me cursing and swearing, and then throwing ALL the pieces
at the wall, then it fast-forwarded to me sheepishly filling out another
bitz order for the parts I couldn't find.
Needless to say, the pipes looked much more user-friendly at that point!
And I hope I never have the need or occasion to assemble an Emp. Steam tank,
because if its even close to the Ex. in terms of frustration and
arggravation, I would have be taken away by the nice men in white coats to
the local looney bin.
drgrbek